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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Was the wood already dry? If the wood is dry it's not nearly as critical to seal the ends. When wood is wet, end checking begins almost immediately, I always seal my logs within hours of dropping the trees. So if the wood is in the process of drying sealing the ends now will likely not prevent cracking. As for products to seal the ends, latex paint is not nearly as effective as anchorseal.
  2. Nice job as usual, gotta love that butternut. Chet, surely she’ll allow a Maloof Rocker!
  3. A real classy piece, great design and super job pulling it off. Absolutely love the figure you got on that top, WOW. That will go real nicely with your Roorkee Chair.
  4. I used it for my outfeed table for the tablesaw, like you were thinking and it worked out great. I like that it's surface is slick and boards slide right over it. I also do most of my glueups on that table, very easy to clean up any glue drips after the fact. Jigs are another great use along with shelving.
  5. Great explaination Tom, it sounds like I sharpen it very similar to you. While milling I stop and sharpen every few tanks regardless, and i really keep an eye on my rakers (depth gauge). I set my rakers based off the wood I'm milling, bigger bites in soft woods, smaller in harder woods. @Coop, the explaination really is longer than the doing. If you watch someone sharpen a chain correctly it is not that complicated, but the little nuances Tom is explaining mean everything. @Tom King , what scored that piston, the fatal event? It wasn't clear to me in your post. I've had that happen t
  6. Is your carcass glued up? If not you could possibly do it with a dowel, 1/2” size. Drill your hole through the bottom shelf into the leg, doing your best to drill at the angle the leg sits. You’ll need to do this with the bottom sitting on the legs with the legs in the correct position, drill through shelf and into the leg. To help with stability, clamp the bottom shelf to your workbench with the legs in position between the shelf and the workbench, the clamping pressure should be enough to stabilize the legs for the drilling procedure. It might be a little hairy but it should work. Ye
  7. Here you go Rickey, table top is the curly oak, just an oil finish; Here are a few boards milled and waiting to be put to use, some real nice curl in these boards!
  8. I'll make a note and take/post some pics. Keep an eye out for them!
  9. I agree with Derek, I started with the veritas (which I found adequate) and on his recommendation bought the Gramercy saw. It did take awhile to get used to it, harder to start, but once comfortable with the saw it is a pleasure.
  10. Yes, you will like them, may like them so much you buy more. The light weight is such an advantage as I stated before!
  11. Don’t know, not a real ash fan. With me not working I might need to save my pennies for that maple log But it would be cool to make a curly ash baseball bat
  12. @pkinneb, Yes, I have been very pleased with the Dubuque clamps, strong and very durable. Love the fact that they are so light compared to pipe clamps!
  13. In the end having different styles of clamps let you do more. I would recommend getting different styles and different lengths. The quick grips have their place, but you definitely don't want to spend the price for these in larger sizes. I mostly use the quick grip style to clamp stuff down to the workbench. My main clamps are aluminum bar clamps. These are not too expensive, they are light, and do great for most simple clamping jobs and excel at gluing up panels. Pipe clamps basically do the same job, but I much prefer the much lighter aluminum. Size wise the 24" clamps do most jobs. Th
  14. Super Job! Awesome result on a challenging project.
  15. Time to wrap this up and I'm excited to get my shop back. For the past week I've mixed more epoxy than I ever care to mix, and I still have a little more to mix. SUP has been glassed and epoxied, I also glassed and epoxied a smaller 6' board I had made last month. Just waited to do them together. Made 3 paddles and I still have some work to go on those but I'm waiting for another shipment of epoxy. So here's the final result, I'm really happy with it and I love the way the red cedar works with the paulownia, looks better than the walnut paulownia combo. Glad
  16. I got to start building more stuff then!
  17. So I'm losing track, how many curly maple logs are you going to mill?
  18. Well guys I build em but I've yet to use em. I'm following the tried and true design. It's my understanding, and hopefully my experience this summer, that the bend faces away from you when paddling. The paddle is supposed to enter the water in front of you and exit the water once the paddle becomes parallel to you. This angle allows for more efficient paddling, so I'm told. Doing research for this project I found a site on common paddleboard mistakes. Listed as #1 was using the paddle backwards. Now I'm sure you could make a straight paddle and have it work, but this is the preferred desi
  19. Well I'm in the process of glassing and epoxy coating the board. At the same time I'm glassing another surf board with my son, I had built that earlier this spring. I'm getting sort of tired of this build, I miss my chairs and the glassing process and sanding process is somewhat tedious. So as a distraction I started on the paddles. For the handles it will have a 10 degree bend at the paddle head, the handle will be somewhat oval, 1.5" by 1.25", and the top of the handle will have a "T" type end. Started with the jig for the 10 degree bend; Strips of paulownia and cherry
  20. Well I'm not sure, never used a vacuum bag but this is a cumbersome thing. Also the pieces/strips for the sides often need positioning after each sucessive clamp placement. So I may have a 5 ft strip, glue is applied to the strip, clamped in position at one end, other clamps to be used are lined up ready to go, next clamp placed, strip positioned, clamp snugged down. So on and so on, some strips may need 20 clamps. Often I'm bending the strip in 2 directions, around the board and to follow the sweep or curve of the board. If a vacumm bag could be used I like the idea of even uniform pres
  21. Good question, paddles are very dependent on length for individuals and their height. Ideally you want the paddle 9-10” longer than the person’s height who is using it. Also, if used in the surf you want a paddle that is shorter than one you use in quiet water. Since my family members are different heights and we expect to use it in the back bays and in the surf I’m going to make 2 different paddle lengths that hopefully cover those different uses and heights. My one son who will likely use it in the surf is taller than me by about 4” and my daughter who will likely use it in the bay is about
  22. So where I left off with this project I was gluing up the "rails", or the sides of the board. If you remember I added 2 strips the length of the board, staggering them and then connected them with a third and larger strip. So now that the glue ups are finally over, it's on to shaping. And believe me i'm glad the glue ups are over! So for shaping I'll use primarily just a few tools, the RAS doing the bulk reduction, rasp refining the shape, and a sander with an interface pad on to smooth; With the RAS I can get the shape pretty close, here's a pic of a small section of rail wher
  23. Just like the Government wants to fill it's strategic oil reserves, I want to stock pile high quality lumber in my strategic reserves.
  24. Yes correct, glass and epoxy when all put together
  25. No worries Chip, I knew you were teasing.