Bmac

Supporters
  • Content Count

    685
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    25

Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Made some progress, but not a big update. So as I mentioned before the side leg houses almost all the joinery, and I need to develop legs that match each other and has certain correct relationships. In the front of the leg we need to do our front leg joint, a Maloof joint. I'll need flat areas to run the router and those flat areas need to match leg to leg and the top part of the leg needs to be parallel to the bottom of the leg. Also the angle of the flat surface on the stem for the backrest support needs to have the correct relationship to the front area. Finally, the length of the legs need to match. So to accomplish this I started with the backrest stem. I clapped the legs together and using a hand plane I worked the joint surface of the stem flat, at a right angle to the exterior face of the leg, and worked it so both stems matched perfectly (which was easy since they were clamped together). Then, while the legs were still clamped together I went to the bandsaw and cut my top line in the front of the side leg and cut the front length for the leg. Then hand planed again these two surfaces until they were flat, at a right angle to the exterior face and so that both legs matched. So in the pic below you can see uniform stem joint areas and the front part of the side leg has matching flat surfaces on the top part of the leg; Last thing I needed to do was cut the underside of the front part to make that surface parallel to the top. Did that on the tablesaw, no problems. On to the joint for the backrest support, used stacked dominos here, piece of cake; And finally for this post I cut my slot for the Maloof joint that connects the front leg to the seat frame. Ready for the router plane; So those slots were cut into the outer side of the leg/seat side piece. Things are bulky now, and that's on purpose. I need flat surfaces to run my router on. Once I rout out the Maloof joint I'll scribe some lines and go to the bandsaw to cut away some of the excess off the top and bottom of the side leg complex. I'll likely cut into this front leg joint. So far so good. I hope to get the frame of this chair put together by the end of this weekend.
  2. You nailed it, you waste a ton of wood doing it my way. It is something I struggle with all the time but is less of an issue for me because I mill my own wood and it's not too much of a premium for me cost wise. But I understand your concern completely. Lessening the curve will help, I guess from your post I thought you were going to scrap the curve. Cleaning up bandsaw marks always are a chore on these sculptured pieces I do, and esp if you are doing an area that is 9" wide.
  3. OK, things are starting to move. Spent the weekend developing plans between football games. Used full sized graph paper and did it the old fashion way, which helped so I could see the dimensions better. Here's the full sized drawing of the seat/leg area and part of the backrest; The angles I developed are less harsh than the original piece. I did a 5 degree drop from the front of the seat to the back of the seat. Used a 110 degree backrest to seat angle, this gives a total of about 115 degrees of reclining. Because the drop was less in the seat, the curve in the back leg had to be more severe and slightly longer than Maloof's chair was. Because of this I dropped the seat height in the front to 16.5" without cushions. Hoping it will end up around 17.5 after cushions. Seat depth is 22". Here's a better pic of the more extreme curve in the back leg; Fortunately I had the perfect board for these legs, glad I decided to mill this log 2 years ago; The critical part of this seat is the side seat rail/back leg piece. All the key joints all are in this piece; the front cross support, the leg jt, the backrest joint, and the back cross support. These all need to match each other and the challenge lies here in this build. I'll start with the backrest support, it needs to be square and located identically in each side piece; Next is the front leg joint. I need parallel top and bottom edges for joinery and a large enough flat area for my router to rest on for the joint; I'm thinking I need to develop a jig for the tablesaw that utilizes the location of the backrest joint and develops a flat cut for the top side of the board in the leg joint area. Then if I get that section flat I could use the tablesaw fence to cut the opposite side. I've left extra material in this area for this operation and I'll likely leave it a little thicker here for the joinery, then sculpt in the final contours.
  4. Great progress, even though you ended up scrapping it the learning is going to help in the long run. Seat looks great. For the curved backrest, and I know you don't plan on doing it but I had some thoughts I'd share anyway. The lamination makes the joinery much more difficult, not impossible but definitely more difficult. Cutting a curved backrest out of a solid piece with the joinery already done before cutting out the shape is a much easier approach. With that said, I think with some more fiddling with your jig you would have eventually gotten the joint right with the laminated piece. Looking forward to following your progress!
  5. Awesome sites, thank you. I will definitely look into this!
  6. Spoke with the upholstery guy and meeting him this week. That will be a big step and the additional photos you guys found are a huge help. That along with the knowing my joinery it's all about the dimensions now and finding out how to make it comfortable. @JohnG was a huge help finding it for sale, not that I plan to buy it, but the sale page has some general dimensions, over all hieght, width and depth. It's listed as 40 H x 28.5 W x 35.5 D, that gives me a rough idea of the footprint. So I plan now to make a simple style lounge chair to start and get a feel for what angles are comfortable. Found a simple design the I can make quickly and play with to help develop my patterns. https://www.shaunboydmadethis.com/glenn-lounge-chair This design is straight forward and the way it's constructed, two sides and a one piece seat, I think I can really play with seat height and pitch of the seat. Sort of like a plywood mock up but still a usable chair when finished. Also it will be a surprise moving gift for my son and his girlfriend when I'm done!
  7. I think you are right Nut, I think it's the position of the back support over the leg that gives it the tapered look. In the pic that @JohnGsent it does not look tapered. The first pic you sent me I think the angle it was taken at gives the seat a more tapered look. The nice thing about no taper is I should have parallel inside surfaces of the back supports, definitely helps with construction. These extra pics are so helpful, thanks guys!!! Sure beats dropping $18,500! I tried also to go on the art gallery but couldn't find any back photos there. By the way, I also agree with you Nut about not wanting to visit LA either.
  8. All good points @Chestnut, these are things I need to tweak. And yes @RichardA It does look sleep inducing. Nut that front pic of the chair is great, it helps a ton. Your computer search ability surpasses mine. Was that the only pic you could find? I'd love a shot of it from the back. So from the new angle I have a few observations. I agree with @Ronn W, it looks like it's reclined a little too much, I'm going to try a lessen that. It also looks like the width of the seat narrows toward the back rest. This was something I was wondering about and this shot confirms that. Saves me some tweaking there. I also don't like the wide arms. I like the way they sweep but I'm going to make them more narrow. I've already done this to the arms on the rocker. This chair is listed on the Maloof website, so I think this was one of his last designed chair; http://sammaloofwoodworker.com/seatinglounge.html Thanks for the input so far guys!
  9. The objective; That's all I have to go off, no plans or dimensions, so I'm going to try a deconstruct the design, develop the joinery and figure out the dimensions. Input is welcome! I'm not trying to make an exact duplicate, but I want to develop something very similar. So here are my initial ideas based off the many Maloof chairs I've made. ***Joinery- starting with the front leg, he has the classic Maloof joint at the seat leg interface. I'm sure he used a 1/2" dowel for the arm to leg joint. All of these are very standard in his chairs. Moving to the second joint on the arm, I'm sure the joint is a butt joint with screw reinforcement, again standard design for him. All of these I'm very familiar with. The leg to the backrest is likely a dowel supported joint, This is what he uses for his feet on his tables and music stand. Here is where I'll deviate slightly, I'll switch to stacked dominos for this joint. Again I'm familiar with this change as I've done it before with the tables and music stands I've made. Now to the seat frame. I've not done a Maloof chair build with a frame before, all the ones I've done have been solid sculpted seats. What I've seen him do on other chairs is a bridle joint for the front joint in the seat frame. In studying this photo and increasing the size it does not look like he used a bridle joint here, It's likely a dowel supported joint. I think switching to stacked dominos would work just fine here and simplify the construction. The back seat frame support will receive the same domino supported joint, looks like he used a dowel joint here. Finally on the the backrest. I'm thinking he has 3 cross pieces, one at the bottom, one in the middle and then the headrest. I can see he used screws for the headrest, but I do not see signs of screws for the other support pieces. I'm assuming those were dowel supported. So I'll try to stay faithful and just switch out the dowels for dominos and use screws for the headrest. ***Dimensions- I have some plans of other lounge chair designs and I have some industry averages. I think I can get in the ball park here. Angle of seat in relation to the floor, angle of seat to backrest, and height of seat in the front are some critical dimensions. Interestingly if you make all the legs on the upper end of the standards length wise, you can always shorten them. Shortening certain legs will also affect some of the angles. The only angle/dimension that is set is the seat to backrest angle, all the others can be manipulated. ***Patterns, this is were I hope to start this week. The front leg design is pretty identical to the rocker, just needs to be longer. Arm rest will likely be very similar to the rocker also. To me the main patterns that are different and I need to develop are the backrest supports and the side seat frame/back leg. ***Upholstery- I have yet to talk to my guy, but I think there are 3 "panels" of upholstery in this piece, the seat and 2 in the backrest. I'm assuming my supports will frame out those panels and also assuming Wood strips and possibly corner supports will be needed for the upholstery. I'll confirm or correct my assumptions after I speak with the upholstery guy. So I'm totally open to suggestions and ideas. Maybe you think I'm on the right track or maybe you think I'm totally off base, but I'd love to hear your thoughts. This is very much a stretch for me but I'm excited to branch out with a new challenge. Thanks for looking!
  10. Let me know if you need help using it.
  11. My list was short and sweet. I received drawing bows (symmetric and asymmetric) from Lee Valley. Been on my want list for awhile but couldn't bring myself to pay for them. Thought it was a good gift idea for me. Now I'm ready to design a dozen chairs.
  12. Well I think I want to try the 3rd Maloof chair, but I wanted to talk with the guy that is going to handle the upholstery with some design questions I had. I also have a few projects I’m wrapping up now so as soon as they are off my workbench I’ll start sketching out my plans. I’ve also been researching designs off and on since my last post and I will likely tackle a chair like the Morley design as well, may do the Maloof and Morley at the same time.
  13. Very nicely done. Love the pic looking down with the liner in the box, your miters line up perfectly. For a few minutes I didn't realize they were liners, I thought you cut a rabbet around the top.
  14. What are you building out of that gorgeous stock? As for the blades you can't go wrong with both. Would love to hear from your experience cutting with both. The Resaw King with it's carbide tipped blade is a great all around blade that stays sharp forever. But those woodslicers impressed the heck out of me. I'll tell you Paul, I don't think you are the only one, I do prefer to have the Woodslicer on the saw over the Resaw King. That blade is impressive and I like the fact that it's only 1/2" instead of 3/4". That makes it more versatile, just doesn't stay sharp. I always have 1 or 2 on hand now. I'll have to do that, I can't say I get a bad cut now with the Resaw King, it's just not as nice as the Woodslicer. Did you have trouble in the past with the Resaw King breaking?
  15. I have one on the saw now because I'm working with some hickory and because I had a small log I needed to quarter. It's a nice blade and stays sharp. I don't quite get as nice of a smooth surface when I resaw with it. Guys on this site have turned me on to the Woodslicer blade from Highland Woodworking for the resawing. Leaves a better surface in my opinion on resawing. They are a much cheaper price but they are not carbide tipped like the resaw king.
  16. Thanks Derek, it is a great design. I believe I read your post about the build in the past, but I loved reading it a second time. You do a great job with your site.
  17. Derek, I do love that Hans Wegner chair, you mentioned him to me before and I did look him up. I think I remember you got one of his old chairs and reconstructed it, correct? You did a fabulous job. Any chance you have patterns????
  18. Boy, I'd be happy to take that off your hands, and hopefully it will help the old sawyers pocketbook! Send me a pm
  19. I'm in agreement, #3 is what I should tackle. I still think I'll tackle the Morley chair in the future, but the Maloof #3 is first. I'm going to do some homework and talk to a patient of mine who should be able to help me with the upholstery. I wish I had a pic of the back of the chair, I think I can handle construction on the parts I see, but the back is somewhat a mystery to me. I'm assuming it's 3 crosspieces. I'll be guessing at angles, but there are standards for lounge chairs I can use and the Morley schematics will also help. This should be fun.
  20. I agree with Nut, using a machinist square against the fence and the blade, it's pretty easy to adjust and snug down in place. The incra has made my life so much better in the shop. Cutting square is no longer a worry. In fact cutting any angle is no longer a worry. I check the squareness of the gauge often, has never come out of square.
  21. I agree guys, that 3rd one is very cool. And I agree with you Nut, would be nice to see some Maloof in that Morley design, or as you put it a mashup. Perhaps since I want to do a lounge chair and with how nice that Maloof chair looks, I should just try and copy that chair.
  22. I'd really like some of that Gum, or if you can get quarter sawn Sycamore! I'd also take curly ambrosia Maple too, and your right, that would look nice in that panel, thought that immediately.