Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Glad to see you came to your senses! Now if you only did that to the curly cherry cross tie.
  2. Great questions and you are right, there is some figure that is going to pop. First, it's not a compound angle. The inside of the back legs should be parallel to each other. You simply need to copy the angle of the splay. So that angle I got from the chair is all I need. Sculpting the headrest the answer is no. All the sculpting I've done up to this point is pre glue up, and it's pretty extensive. It's the only piece on the chair you work this much prior to glue up. But I'll have another round of sculpting after glue up. After glue up you have the spindles to deal with, so the more you can do now the better. After gluing I'll rework all the joints and blend in the joints to the rest of the chair. The underside of the headrest, where it meet the back leg is a real tough place. This final shaping step of the headrest takes a lot of time. Great question also. On my different chairs I've played with spindle position, bunching them more toward the middle and away from the back leg. I had great luck with that and no change of comfort. This chair I plan to do the regular spindle placement, and after laying out spindle position on this headrest, the difference was very minor, so I'm not worried about that. It does mean the middle spindles will need to be angled slightly more forward, but it looks like that won't be an issue either. As for comfort, I'm not sure. It amounts to about 1/8- 1/4 of an inch forward at the midline. I think, but don't know for sure, that it will be comfortable. Charles Brock has developed a plan for this rocker using all 8/4 stock and he claims it's just as comfortable. I think his main changes are arm stem height and headrest sweep. We'll see how it turns out. If it's not as comfortable as the others (which I doubt) it will at least be prettier!
  3. Well this is moving along. Was supposed to fish this weekend but the weather was not favorable so I went to the workshop instead. Covering a lot of ground in this post and I do think there are a few important tricks I've learned that I share with you in this post. As an over view I cover sizing and fitting the headrest, shaping and blending headrest into chair, horns, sanding , and final spindle shaping. So lets get started with fitting the headrest. When you watch Marc do this it is very cumbersome and awkward. Once you try it yourself you realize it take 3 or 4 hands to do easily. Now don't get me wrong, Marc's technique works, but I'm going to show a way easier way. First you need your stock. It's 7" wide and approx 22" long. It should be 10/4 thick but my favorite sawyer @Spanky could only get me 9/4. After milling we are sitting slight more than 8/4, and you can see I was not over aggressive with the milling, leaving some spots unmilled because I know I'm going to cut those areas away or sculpt them out; Now to fit the headrest lay your chair on your work bench, putting a 2" wide board under the back legs like such; You then can lay your headrest under the top of the chair so you can record your reference lines and angle of your cuts to fit the headrest; This technique differs from Marc's as he does this with the chair in the upright position and holding the headrest which is very awkward. So from there I go to the chop saw and make my cuts. As with most chairs, my angles were not identical for each side, they varied slightly so don't assume they are the same. So looking good; Now that we have the headrest sized to fit, we can start cutting our curves and sculpting the shape. The first thing to do is cut out the curve of the headrest. Here, since I'm a little thin my pattern overhangs the back a little; It's not short by much but I need to look at my options. First I could glue a piece to the back to beef up the area we are short, but I don't like the idea of it not matching. I could strike the front line and cut that piece off and then glue that piece to the back, this works and I've done it on 2 other rockers, but you can still tell the piece was added. It's not a big deal because It is in the back of the rocker and after sculpting it really turns out to be a small addition, but still I'm not keen on that. So i'm trying a different idea. I'm going to lessen the curve, and I don't think it will have much if any effect on the final outcome. You end up doing so much shaping to this piece. So I struck a few lines and the arrows show you how much I'm off; So I changed the curve; In the end I maintained uniform thickness by adding to the front and the back in proper proportions, it took a few tries but I figured it out; Now I can cut my bottom profile. I like this shape; Next are the spindle holes and THEN the top profile; Now to attach the headrest to the chair with screws. Clamped it up on the bench, stood it on the ground after clamping. Then I drew my guide lines for the screws; Once you are done with that you disassemble and shape the headrest off the chair. Shaping is covered very well by Marc, and it starts with an endgrain template; Not much to show with the shaping, but I will tell you all was completed with just the RAS, rasps and sanders with interface pads of course. Here is the headrest screwed back onto the chair after shaping; So you can see that the back legs don't come close to blending in with the headrest and that's our next job. But first I need to shape the outline for the horns; And a few minutes later using only the RAS; For sculpting I start with the front of the chair and using the RAS, rasps and sander (with interface pad) I get a nice flow to things; Now to the back side. Before shaping; When sculpting the backside, this is one area that I still use the die grinder. In fact it's the first time in this whole project I've used it and I'll use it for the horns. I may use it on the rocker/leg joint, but here and with the horns cutting the coves it is necessary. Also used the RAS, rasps and sander (yes, with the interface pad); Now the above is not finished as nice as the front, that's because I have to add the horns to this part of the shaping; Shaping the horns is tough. I use the die grinder, the rasps, the curved scraper and sandpaper wrapped around a large dowel. This area takes a lot of work and time. And here we are, you can also see I refined the cove all the way down the back leg/headrest joint; All that above is a lot of work, and I'm glad it all went so well. I thought this is a good time to sand everything to 400. I want to do this before I finish the spindles because once they are glued in you have much harder access to certain parts of the chair. I'll sand the spindles separate and I'll need to sand the whole headrest area again after that glue up, but now I'm going to go over the rest of the chair. I start with the small sander (with interface pad) and 180 grit. Then I hand sand 220, 320 then 400. I then burnish with a white 3M pad. This helps ALOT. The pad cleans the surface and small scratches magically become visible. I could not see the scratches below until I went over them with the pad; Those scratches may not seem like a big deal, but they will stand out with finish on the chair. So on to the spindles, with the backrest still screwed on I put the spindles in their bottom holes and can now cut them to length. Then it's on to shaping the tops; The above is done with all rasps and the Veritas tenon cutter. Since I can't try the spindles into the headrest holes while it's screwed to the chair, I take a block and fit them to a 3/8ths hole in the block; So this wraps up this post. Wanted to mention one thing and I don't mean to sound redundant. I rely very heavily on my small sander and the interface pads. I can't stress enough how important I think these are. First my Rotex 90 is small enough to get into tight places and light enough to use with one hand. This makes a BIG difference. Also with this chair, you really have NO FLAT areas. NONE. The interface pad is too soft to make a flat area. So using it it aids in giving you the subtle round overs and the Maloof look. Don't doubt me on this, it helps a ton and it helps speed things along. Talking of that, here is my time; Headrest- 6.5 hrs Sanding chair- 4 hrs Spindle shaping (top half)- 2 hrs Total time spent; 47.5 hrs Thanks for looking.
  4. Yes, I'm excited to see that seat with some dye and the finish, I might have a keeper there! Thanks Paul
  5. At this point I've got all the joints to the seat and arm sculpted. Still have refining and sanding, but I'm close in these areas. Rockers are glued up and transition blocks glued on. Waiting here to finish the headrest so I can balance the rockers and start to fit the legs to the rockers. So I'm left with the headrest and the spindles, started refining the spindles now and headrest is on deck. So to tackle the spindles, which have already been cut out to rough shape, I start by shaping the bottom half of the spindles. The front side of the spindles have a slight crown on the surface and the back of the spindles have a heavy round over. With the mid line marked and the line on the side of the spindle guide me for my first surface, the light crowning of the front side; I handle this just with cabinet rasps; The back side before starting heavy round over; Roughed out with the RAS; Both sides of center line roughed out with RAS; Then rasps to clean up and even out the round over; Next is the round tenon at the bottom of the spindle, need this to be 1/2"; A Veritas tenon cutter makes quick work of this; Now on to the the small sander with interface pad. Front of spindle presanding; The unevenness is quickly smoothed with 120 grit; Now the backside presanding; Again, sander with interface pad makes for a nice rounded surface; The spindles need to look uniform and the spindle shoulder height needs to be uniform. Here is a line using the two outside spindles and a mark up on the outer edge of each spindle from the seat at 3 1/4 "; I level the spindle shoulders to that line. This is all rasp work; I am only half way done with the spindles. Headrest is next before I can tackle the top half of the spindles. Oh this took awhile, 4 1/2 hrs to put my total time at 35 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  6. Super result and I like the finish, you did a spray finish, right?
  7. I will sand this to 400 grit, I have a lot of grits ahead of me still.
  8. Back at it since returning from another unsuccessful surf fishing trip for the depleted Striped Bass. Was able to get a few hrs in and worked on the arm to leg joints. These go pretty quick and gives you the best example of my method of what I refer to as power sculpting. Started with the back leg to arm joint. You have a decent amount of excess arm material which I quickly take down with the RAS. Then I switch to 80 grit on the RAS as I'll be using this for more fine refinements next. Once material is flush I start with the outside of the arm. Here I first use the rasps and then move to the small sander with an interface pad. There is a large flat area here that I lightly crown over and I'm a little more aggressive removing wood on the underside of the joint. This goes pretty quickly; Now it's to the top inside edge of both arms. In this first pic you can see where I start after the RAS reduction. Smooth contours but a sharp edge; After the rasps; Then the small sander with the interface pad, this gets me in the ballpark; Next is the inside of the arm where we add the classic Maloof detail of a sweeping curve sculpted into the arm. Maloof used a long sweeping curve that travels up the arm further than the curve I use. Start by marking it out; Now you can see in the picture above we have left a little more thickness here to build in this detail. First thing I do is use the RAS with the 80 grit to start the reduction. You do this with a light touch and with the edge of the pad. This machine is great for this; Now on to the rasps. Like the modeler rasp here; Now you can see I still have some bulk below the curve; Handle this with the small sander and the interface pad. The edge of the interface pad rides along the curve; This is post sanding; That gives me a nice result, stand chair up and look at it from a different angle, still notice some extra thickness below the curve; After a little more reduction we are better; You can see from this pic I put my plugs in the screw holes. For this chair I decided to change species and went with walnut plugs. In the past I've always used the same species for the plugs but with this lighter wood I was concerned the glue line would stand out. After that I move to the arm to front leg joint. Here it is prior to shaping; After some quick work with the RAS; Now the rasps; Now the sander/interface pad; Still need to do a lot of hand sanding in this area but this is a good start. Then I move to the front profile of the arm, I leave some bulk here for clamping on the arm. Create the more delicate edge after arm is glued on; So once that is done I got a few other areas addressed. Started rounding over and sanding the back legs above the arm but below the headrest; Worked on the underside of the seat; Worked on the side profile of the front leg; and getting ready to glue my blocks on the rockers; So next is on to the headrest and spindles. I'll glue the blocks on the rockers and set them aside so they are ready when I get there. Also throughout the next few steps I'll do some more refinement and hand sanding. It's good to get away for a few days and look again when dealing with refinements. All total for this session is 3.5 hrs, bringing my total to 30.5. Thanks for looking.
  9. True, it is a minor detail and quite frankly in my past chairs I've left more of an end grain edge there than most people do. But my concern here is that the way the rocker sits, slightly tilted back, that edge is more visible and I'm concerned the dye may make this area darker. Even with that said i still will likely leave somewhat of an end grain edge and test the dye on a piece before I put it on the chair. Don't like the knife edge you see some people develop. Thanks as always for your kind words.
  10. Short update, only spent a little time in shop and have a busy weekend, so here's where I'm at. Finished shaping, sculpting all leg to seat joints. Sanded to 180 but I still have a few scratches to work out. also need to put plugs in and work those areas. Front leg area the tougher than the back area. Cannot be shy or hesitant, there is a lot of material to remove in the front leg to seat joint area; You can see here I have a little less width in the leg at the joint than above or below joint, I'll need to work on that; Also started rounding the underside of the front part of seat; Still need to work this area to make it look thinner; Flow to back legs look good, minimal work left here; Here you can see the side "wings" or extensions coming up from the seat and joint, want to make them flow and be mirror images of each other whether its side to side or top to bottom; So now I can glue on the arms and when I get back to this I'll be working this area; Finishing up the front legs took me 2 more hrs so I'm sitting at 27 total hrs. Believe it or not it may seem like I'm moving but there is a lot of work ahead of me still. Thanks for looking.
  11. Sounds like you had some wet white oak. True the cell structure, having tyloses that fills the pores of the wood, is different than other oaks and other woods. But it's this cell structure, or these tyloses, that have made it the wood to use for ship builders and whiskey barrels. Since the pores are filled it doesn't absorb water. This characteristic, along with other naturally occurring rot resistance characteristics, that makes this wood suitable for outdoor use. Now, these same characteristics make the wood very difficult to dry. Drying white oak requires patience and experience. I'm sure @Spanky can attest to this. A quick overview of the wood in the wood data base lists the wood as very durable in regards to rot resistance. https://www.wood-database.com/white-oak/
  12. Well it has a lot to do with practice. First time I sculpted something it didn't go as nearly fast! Now do we need to talk about your underwear choices?
  13. Don't forget white oak, other woods mentioned are also good, but white oak is pretty accessible everywhere and strong. Whatever wood you use remember that a wood's sapwood portion is much less resistant to decay than it's heartwood in all the woods mentioned.
  14. Good questions, I didn't really cover this when I went over that. The jig I use is limited, will sand at max 3" wide laminates. But it works well enough to not have to go out and get a drum sander. First thing is that the plan calls for 3/16" thick laminates, 6 per rocker. In the past I've used 1/4" with no problem on other rockers. These laminates after sanding measured in slightly below 1/4" and I used 5 laminates per rocker instead of 6, rockers measured out 1 1/8" thick once out of the glueup jig, about what you get with 6 laminates at 3/16". I don't think there is more of a problem going thinner, if anything there will be less chance of breaking if thinner. Breaking would be more a problem the thicker the laminates. The curve on these rockers is not extreme. In other projects where I've done bent lamination where the curve was more extreme I went thinner than this, less than or at 3/16". One thing that I pay a lot of attention to with the laminates is straight grain. Irregular grain or knots are more vulnerable to breaking. I use exclusively air dried lumber, except with this build. This build is KD Maple I got from Spanky. This is one reason I tried to get the laminates below 1/4" because my belief is KD is less forgiving when bending. This lumber worked out great for this, bent very easily and no issues. I don't have as much curly figure in these rockers, picked lumber with less curly figure thinking it would bend better, but that was based on nothing more than an uneducated guess.
  15. I thought that the figure was going to pop on that chop, it looked interesting even before you applied the finish.
  16. That's an interesting question. I think when sculpting I don't look at the joint or the grain, I just try to see the curve or silhouette. Look at the silhouette and feel it with your hand, that helps a lot.
  17. Let's keep this ball rolling, a couple hours of work. Now that I've moved into the sculpting stage I get excited and anxious to see the finished product. I now have all the parts made up except the headrest. Both rockers are glued up, the arm is ready to glue to the chair and the spindles are cut out and waiting for the rasps. But before I move forward with any more glue ups I need to shape and sculpt all the leg/seat joints. You really want to do this before adding the arms as it is much easier to get to these joints without the arms attached. Before I get into the sculpting here's a quick pic of a rocker glue up. I always do a dry run, if something is going to crack or split I'd rather find out in the dry run! Dry run; Ok, safe to glue; Now to shaping/sculpting. I will start with the back leg to seat joint. This is the easier joint of the two to shape. I'll try to show different stages, hopefully it makes sense; Joint before any sculpting, right after glue up; To reduce the bulk of excess I use the RAS, I can go right up to the seat with the RAS; Literally 2 minutes later, rough shaping with 50 grit done; That was the joint on the top of the seat, here is the underside of the seat, the one part of the joint has been shaped, the other part hasn't been touched yet; Literally 2 minutes later, same joint, different picture angle, just shaped with the RAS; So once the RAS has done the bulk of reduction it's on to the rasps and my small sander with an interface pad on it. Above the seat I sand and shape up to the arm joint and below the seat I shape and sand half way to bottom of back leg. This pic is the top side of the seat, both joints are now sanded to 120, still have more finer sanding to do but we are looking good now; Another angle, again this is sanded to 120. Trying to develop a graceful flow and curves from the leg to the seat; Now to the front legs. We have a lot of bulk here and we need to be aggressive. This pic is prior to any shaping; I first attack the sides of the joint with the RAS; Here you can see the width of the leg now matches much better the area of the leg above and below the joint; Now you can notice I've started to blend in the leg/seat interface; And the inside of the front leg to seat joint, sanded to 120; So it took me 1 hr to get the back legs cleaned up and sanded to 120. It took me 1 hr to get the front leg finished on the inside but still rough on the outer side. Probably have another 45 minutes on the one front leg to get it completely shaped and sanded to 120. Once I get all the leg/seat joints shaped and sanded to 120, I'll sand to 180 and then glue on the arms. Then it will be on to shaping the arm/back leg joint and starting the headrest. I haven't found time to start on the spindles, but I think that will change soon. I still need to glue the riser strips on the rockers, will look to do that soon also. Total time sitting at 25 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  18. Whenever I'm doing a Maloof piece I always search the web for info and pointers. I ran across this video. I don't do this yet with my arms, but that is some impressive bandsawing!
  19. Super job, and I'm with Gee-dub, can't wait to see that sapele pop when you put the finish on.
  20. Quick update to cover what else I completed this weekend. After sculpting the arms I drove the screws for them. So I'm done with the arms now until I glue them on and finalizing the shape. What I like to do next is glue the legs on to the seat blank. I'm jumping ahead of Marc's order, but since I've got the seat refined and the arms done I want to get moving on the sculpting of the chair. For this glueup I've tried different glues. Titebond III would work well here but the problem I've had with that is I've had trouble getting the legs to seat fully into the joint. I think the tight fit, the way titebond causes the wood to swell, and the large surface area of these joints makes this difficult. I've used hide glue and that is a little easier to get the joints fully closed. But the easiest glue to use is epoxy. There is no swelling of the wood and the joint slides closed better with this glue than the others. So I'll be using System 3, my go to epoxy. I like it because it has a thicker consistency. Also I made sure I sanded all my pencil lines off my legs, in the past working with light woods like maple I've not cleaned those lines off and they are visible after glueup, meaning more sculpting. Ready for glueup; Here's the consistency of System 3; Clamped up and joints look tight; Now while that glueup is curing, I went to a rocker glueup. In doing this project consider gluing up the rockers early, it makes for more efficient shop time. I already cut my strips for the rocker lamination, just needed to do a little more prep work. When cutting the strips on the bandsaw I cut a strip from each side of the board the jointed both sides of the boards, then cut, then jointed.... Here are my laminates; So I have laminates that are jointed on one side and bandsaw cut surface on the other side. Now I have a nice enough surface that I could of glued them up like that, Maloof actually did this. I don't have a drum sander, which would be the perfect tool to put a more even surface on the bandsaw cut side. I could of run them through the planer on a sled, but with the curly figured nature of these strips I was concerned about that. So I used a neat little attachment for the drill press. Brock recommended this in his video for his build. I've used it in my other rocker builds. It is called Luthier's Friend sanding station; It mounts on the drill press and is perfect for the 1 1/2" rocker laminates. It's a poor man's spindle sander with a fence. You can adjust the thickness by moving the back fence; Here's a pic with a laminate being sanded; So after the sanding of the laminates I glued up one rocker. I used Titebond II Extend. @Chet, I forgot to order some Unibond One, I wanted to try it for this build. Oh well there will be another time. I've used the TB II Extend with good success here. No pics of this glueup, but i'm about done with the "parts" of the chair. I only need to glueup one more rocker and make the headrest, right now it's all about sculpting. I'm excited to get on to this stage. I'll focus first on the leg to seat interfaces. Once I'm done there I'll glue on the arms and sculpt this area. This post covered 2 hrs of shop time, for a total of 23 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  21. Thanks, but it does help that I've done this before. Funny thing about this project is you feel like you are going fast then you hit the sculpting stage. For those that do this project for the first time this part can really slow you up. I've gotten much faster at the sculpting, but it still takes a big chunk of time. To me it is also the most satisfying part of this build.
  22. This is a continuation of last post where I mentioned I had an issue with the arms, and this should be good stuff for those looking to build this in the future. The issue arose because I'm working with 9/4 stock. The plan calls for 10/4 and after surfacing the blanks I ended up slightly over 8/4. so here's where I started and ended up.... Took my first blanks and cut a 6 degree bevel on the front underside of the arm. This allows for for correct orientation to the arm stem area. Once again you use the 6 degree jig for this at the bandsaw; After cutting the bevels I went to the chair and it wasn't what I wanted; So why am I off, well it's the thinner stock. Now I've run across this problem in the past where I didn't meet up perfectly at this joint, but not off by this much. In the past I just went with it and shaped the back leg to meet the arm, creating a slightly smaller joint, but I wasn't comfortable with doing that in this situation, I off by too much. So my choices are to increase the angle in the front which means I need a new jig or to glue up a 1/2" piece to my existing blank. Well I didn't want to glue to this blank since the bevel was already cut on the underside, that is the surface I need to glue the piece too. You'll see why very shortly. So I got some more stock, sized it and cut the extra 1/2" pieces from one of the thinner arm blanks. Glueup and tackle it tomorrow; In the mean time I took a few minutes to cut out all the spindles, now they are waiting for shaping; Next day I marked my bevel, making sure the side the piece was added to will be oriented on the under side of the arm. Same thing at the bandsaw; Now I'm in business; Using a straight edge I mark the angle of the joint and transfer that to my chop saw; Perfect fit; Marked the location for the front dowel with a dowel center, Marc does a great job explaining this; Off to the drill press to cut the hole at the correct orientation, using the 6 degree jig again; Next is to cut out the arm shape. The plan calls for an arm that to me looks like a boat paddle, I've altered my pattern for a more streamline arm; Traced on blank and off to the bandsaw; After another series of cuts here are my rough arm blanks; Now to shaping. Start with the top of the arm. Marc does a super job walking you through this and I still refer back to the video for guidance. I've mark my areas for reduction and numbered them in order of shaping; One note, I want to hide the added piece and the joint it makes, my reduction on the top side stops short of this joint; Clamped to the bench and on to the RAS and rasps, now it's getting fun; My first 2 areas reduced, now will blend them together; Done and looks good; On to the underside; Here's why I want the piece glued to the bottom of the blank, the whole joint is hidden, except where it meet the front leg; And here are the rough shaped arms. Not really rough as the RAS leaves a decent surface and I sanded both to 120 with an interface pad on the sander; Still need to shape where the arm meets the back leg but that's done after glueup. The additional time to the total is 4 hrs, but this did take longer and I counted some of those hrs in the previous post. Sitting at 21 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  23. Getting real close is right
  24. I feel special now. Not a piece of this is going in the woodstove!
  25. That is some real nice wood to work. Smooth as butter. I think I remember Dale said he didn't like that hard sugar maple, do I remember right? Compared to walnut, which is much more open grain, or cherry, which should be more like the maple, this maple is fun. Completely different feeling. Only complaint is it does want to burn easily. Nevertheless, I'm saving every scrap!