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Posts posted by Bmac

  1. Made some progress, but not a big update.

    So as I mentioned before the side leg houses almost all the joinery, and I need to develop legs that match each other and has certain correct relationships. In the front of the leg we need to do our front leg joint, a Maloof joint. I'll need flat areas to run the router and those flat areas need to match leg to leg and the top part of the leg needs to be parallel to the bottom of the leg. Also the angle of the flat surface on the stem for the backrest support needs to have the correct relationship to the front area. Finally, the length of the legs need to match.

    So to accomplish this I started with the backrest stem. I clapped the legs together and using a hand plane I worked the joint surface of the stem flat, at a right angle to the exterior face of the leg, and worked it so both stems matched perfectly (which was easy since they were clamped together). Then, while the legs were still clamped together I went to the bandsaw and cut my top line in the front of the side leg and cut the front length for the leg. Then hand planed again these two surfaces until they were flat, at a right angle to the exterior face and so that both legs matched. So in the pic below you can see uniform stem joint areas and the front part of the side leg has matching flat surfaces on the top part of the leg;


    Last thing I needed to do was cut the underside of the front part to make that surface parallel to the top. Did that on the tablesaw, no problems.

    On to the joint for the backrest support, used stacked dominos here, piece of cake;



    And finally for this post I cut my slot for the Maloof joint that connects the front leg to the seat frame. Ready for the router plane;


    So those slots were cut into the outer side of the leg/seat side piece. Things are bulky now, and that's on purpose. I need flat surfaces to run my router on. Once I rout out the Maloof joint I'll scribe some lines and go to the bandsaw to cut away some of the excess off the top and bottom of the side leg complex. I'll likely cut into this front leg joint. 

    So far so good. I hope to get the frame of this chair put together by the end of this weekend.

    • Like 2

  2. 12 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

    Yes except I'd need to waste a butt load of 10/4 cherry which i don't have and don't want to waste just to get a 1/2" thick back. My counter argument is the time saved in figuring out the joinery would be spend cleaning up band saw  marks and shaping the back rest. A 9" wide curved resaw would be very challenging in a different way. My design that I'm standing firm on is what is causing the troubles. If i yield on the design it ruins the idea I've had for the last 6 years.

    Now that i know the drastic curve isn't really necessary I might still do some curve but just contain it within a 6/4 board which is what i was going to use anyway... we shall see. A very gentle curve that I'm picturing could be sent through the drum sander to make fast work of cleanup, well at least one side.

    You nailed it, you waste a ton of wood doing it my way. It is something I struggle with all the time but is less of an issue for me because I mill my own wood and it's not too much of a premium for me cost wise. But I understand your concern completely.

    Lessening the curve will help, I guess from your post I thought you were going to scrap the curve. Cleaning up bandsaw marks always are a chore on these sculptured pieces I do, and esp if you are doing an area that is 9" wide. 

  3. Great progress, even though you ended up scrapping it the learning is going to help in the long run. Seat looks great.

    For the curved backrest, and I know you don't plan on doing it but I had some thoughts I'd share anyway. The lamination makes the joinery much more difficult, not impossible but definitely more difficult. Cutting a curved backrest out of a solid piece with the joinery already done before cutting out the shape is a much easier approach. With that said, I think with some more fiddling with your jig you would have eventually gotten the joint right with the laminated piece. 

    Looking forward to following your progress!

    • Like 1

  4. 1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

    Found some interesting information that you might be interested in @Bmac.

    It's possible that the chair you are interested in has dimensioned drawings of the exact chair you are interested in. They appear to have a lot of information on that site. It may be worth reaching out to them as well if you are interested.

    Awesome sites, thank you. I will definitely look into this!

  5. Spoke with the upholstery guy and meeting him this week. That will be a big step and the additional photos you guys found are a huge help. That along with the knowing my joinery it's all about the dimensions now and finding out how to make it comfortable. @JohnG was a huge help finding it for sale, not that I plan to buy it, but the sale page has some general dimensions, over all hieght, width and depth. It's listed as 40 H x 28.5 W x 35.5 D, that gives me a rough idea of the footprint. 

    So I plan now to make a simple style lounge chair to start and get a feel for what angles are comfortable. Found a simple design the I can make quickly and play with to help develop my patterns.

    This design is straight forward and the way it's constructed, two sides and a one piece seat, I think I can really play with seat height and pitch of the seat. Sort of like a plywood mock up but still a usable chair when finished. Also it will be a surprise moving gift for my son and his girlfriend when I'm done!

  6. 37 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

    Unfortunately I tried to find a back picture as well but was unable. This ( is the art gallery it was made for. I wonder if they have any other pictures they would share with you. Too bad it's in LA, i have little desire to go there.

    Found Another not very different angle. To me it doesn't look like it tapers towards the back. If you look the back rest comes strait off the rear legs but the front legs are outside the main frame. I think it just appears to be tapered because of that.


    I think you are right Nut, I think it's the position of the back support over the leg that gives it the tapered look. In the pic that @JohnGsent it does not look tapered. The first pic you sent me I think the angle it was taken at gives the seat a more tapered look. The nice thing about no taper is I should have parallel inside surfaces of the back supports, definitely helps with construction.

    These extra pics are so helpful, thanks guys!!! Sure beats dropping $18,500!

    I tried also to go on the art gallery but couldn't find any back photos there. By the way, I also agree with you Nut about not wanting to visit LA either. 



    • Like 1

  7. All good points @Chestnut, these are things I need to tweak. And yes @RichardA It does look sleep inducing. 

    Nut that front pic of the chair is great, it helps a ton. Your computer search ability surpasses mine. Was that the only pic you could find? I'd love a shot of it from the back.

    So from the new angle I have a few observations. I agree with @Ronn W, it looks like it's reclined a little too much, I'm going to try a lessen that. It also looks like the width of the seat narrows toward the back rest. This was something I was wondering about and this shot confirms that. Saves me some tweaking there. I also don't like the wide arms. I like the way they sweep but I'm going to make them more narrow. I've already done this to the arms on the rocker.

    This chair is listed on the Maloof website, so I think this was one of his last designed chair;

    Thanks for the input so far guys!

  8. 1 hour ago, JohnG said:

    I got:

    • Preppin' weapon sanding block
    • Lee Valley Router Plane (stolen off porch, to be reordered)
    • Nakashima's Soul of a Tree
    • Krenov's Impractical Cabinetmaker
    • Woodpeckers mini square
    • magnetic base adjustable LED light


    I'll probably use part of my year-end bonus or distribution to buy myself something else, but I haven't decided what yet. Was thinking about a bigger bandsaw, but we will be moving out of state in about 6 months so I'll probably wait until we move to buy any more machinery.

    You got two great books!

    • Like 1

  9. 7 hours ago, Chip Sawdust said:

    So @Bmac what did you go with? I’ve been reading this thread but not saying anything but now the suspense is killing me! :) 

    Well I think I want to try the 3rd Maloof chair, but I wanted to talk with the guy that is going to handle the upholstery with some design questions I had. I also have a few projects I’m wrapping up now so as soon as they are off my workbench I’ll start sketching out my plans. I’ve also been researching designs off and on since my last post and I will likely tackle a chair like the Morley design as well, may do the Maloof and Morley at the same time. 

    • Like 2

  10. 10 hours ago, RIW said:

    I don’t have one now but I am going to buy one after Christmas. I will get a woodslicer also.  Maybe one of them will cut 300 bdft of tiger maple without problems. 

    What are you building out of that gorgeous stock? 

    As for the blades you can't go wrong with both. Would love to hear from your experience cutting with both. The Resaw King with it's carbide tipped blade is a great all around blade that stays sharp forever. But those woodslicers impressed the heck out of me.

    19 hours ago, pkinneb said:

    So either I am the only one who doesn't like his resaw king or they changed them. I bought one with my Laguna 16HD 13ish years ago and have never thought it did a very good job. I much prefer the much cheaper Highland Woodworking Wood Slicer Resaw Blades. 

    I'll tell you Paul, I don't think you are the only one, I do prefer to have the Woodslicer on the saw over the Resaw King. That blade is impressive and I like the fact that it's only 1/2" instead of 3/4". That makes it more versatile, just doesn't stay sharp. I always have 1 or 2 on hand now. 

    20 hours ago, Chestnut said:

    Check the side of your RK for burs and file them down with a diamond plate. Your RK blade should give a better cut surface than a wood slicer. I have both and once i had the RK tuned there is no matching it.

    I'll have to do that, I can't say I get a bad cut now with the Resaw King, it's just not as nice as the Woodslicer. Did you have trouble in the past with the Resaw King breaking? 

    • Like 1

  11. 7 hours ago, RIW said:

    Bmac do you use a resaw king blade ?

    I have one on the saw now because I'm working with some hickory and because I had a small log I needed to quarter. It's a nice blade and stays sharp. I don't quite get as nice of a smooth surface when I resaw with it. Guys on this site have turned me on to the Woodslicer blade from Highland Woodworking for the resawing. Leaves a better surface in my opinion on resawing. They are a much cheaper price but they are not carbide tipped like the resaw king. 

  12. 1 hour ago, derekcohen said:

    Yes, Wegner has some great designs. This is my favourite.

    Sorry, no templates. I also deliberately did not post dimensions when I wrote up the build as it is still manufactured under license... but you can read the details of the build here (scan down the page):

    Regards from Perth



    Thanks Derek, it is a great design. I believe I read your post about the build in the past, but I loved reading it a second time. You do a great job with your site.

    • Thanks 1

  13. 1 hour ago, derekcohen said:

    This is one of three featured in a recent FWW magazine article ...



    To be blunt, I find these designs very bland. I prefer something less box-like.

    Here's a chair I built .... not my design. It is by Hans Wegner ...





    Wegner was (is) famous for his chair designs. Look him up.

    Regards from Perth






    I do love that Hans Wegner chair, you mentioned him to me before and I did look him up. I think I remember you got one of his old chairs and reconstructed it, correct? You did a fabulous job. 

    Any chance you have patterns????

  14. 2 hours ago, Spanky said:

    Bmac what wood will you make the chair out of?  I have some curly walnut shorts around 4 ft long 8/4  9/4 thick. It has been air drying for almost a year, but it would need to go in the kiln. 

    The Ole Boy From Houston hasn’t seen it! :D

    Boy, I'd be happy to take that off your hands, and hopefully it will help the old sawyers pocketbook!

    Send me a pm

  15. I'm in agreement, #3 is what I should tackle. I still think I'll tackle the Morley chair in the future, but the Maloof #3 is first. I'm going to do some homework and talk to a patient of mine who should be able to help me with the upholstery. I wish I had a pic of the back of the chair, I think I can handle construction on the parts I see, but the back is somewhat a mystery to me. I'm assuming it's 3 crosspieces. I'll be guessing at angles, but there are standards for lounge chairs I can use and the Morley schematics will also help.

    This should be fun.

  16. 1 hour ago, drzaius said:

    The third chair really turns my crank. Gorgeous to look at & looks very comfortable.


    34 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

    I agree that 3rd chair is awesome. It would be really interesting to see a mashup of the morly chair and maloof style.

    I agree guys, that 3rd one is very cool. And I agree with you Nut, would be nice to see some Maloof in that Morley design, or as you put it a mashup. 

    Perhaps since I want to do a lounge chair and with how nice that Maloof chair looks, I should just try and copy that chair.