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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. That is some pretty Curly Maple, that's not what he got from you this year is it? He was air drying that, right?
  2. On to the back leg, adder block has been glued on, now we need to cut into the adder block at 6 degrees. The 6 degree guide Marc makes in the video series is a must and you use it for multiple operations. I've used mine for multiple chairs! The leg is clamped to the jig the cut is made, cut will be reverse for the other lag. This is not a hard operation, just need to take your time and make sure you have everything positioned correctly; Once cut you need to be 100 % sure you have a square cut. Laying out the cuts for the joinery is done by marking the midline of the block and bottom of the lag; You measure up 9 3/4" up from the bottom of the leg to where it crosses the midline of the block. Marc shows this well in his video, the mark will designate the bottom of the joint. The top mark of the joint is determined by the width of the tenon in the back seat joint. Cutting this joint takes a steady hand, as you really can't set up the fence stops and other guides due to the shape of the leg. You basically freehand this cut and as Marc says, you sneak up on the fit. One thing that I found helped is to use double sided tape to secure a larger piece of 3/4 plywood. This gives me a larger more stable surface to hold against the miter gauge. I use the incra miter gauge for this cut. Here is the end result with an example of how I position the plywood "helper". Roundover the inside corner and the fit was good Need to get a pic of this. Then I did a little preglueup shaping; Next I wanted to drill the spindle holes in the seat before I drive in the screws that help secure the front and back legs. One problem with this guild plan is when you get to assembly, the holes, if drilled at 90 degrees, cause the spindles to be positioned too far back to easily go into the headrest. This creates a problem and many others have broken the spindles by trying to push them forward during assembly. I drill the holes with a 3 degree forward leaning angle. I do this by putting a strip of wood in the front of the drill press table. I get the 3 degrees with some trial and error by moving the strip of wood forward and backward. Here is the simple setup dialed in; And the holes drilled; In the end we'll see how that 3 degree angle works out. I've been angling these holes forward for the last few chairs. It isn't always dead on, but it is a lot closer. As an aside, Maloof drilled all these holes freehand! While I was working on the seat I took the time to cut a pleasing arch in the back of the seat blank and some simple scallop cuts on the sides of the seat blank. This, in my opinion gives the seat a very pleasing shape and look. Then I rounded over the underside of the seat with the RAS, creating a pleasing uplifting look; And here's the seat dry assembled, see how that roundover on the seat blank side gives a neat effect to the seat; Next we need to drive the screws that help support the legs. With the back leg you have to make sure you don't hit the spindle hole close to back leg. Marc did this in his build. This is why I want the spindle holes cut first, Marc cut his spindle holes after driving the screws and that's how he ended up with them intersecting. To avoid the spindle hole I angle the front screw toward the back of the chair; With the front legs you need to make sure you don't drive the screw out the top of the seat blank. This is another reason it's good to sculpt the seat gradually, gives you more bulk; This is ideal screw placement, right through the middle of the joint into the middle of the tenon in the seat. Also you can see I did some presculpting on the left leg; Now it's on to the arms, they are next. In prep for that you need to make sure the joint surface on the back leg is completely flat; I started on the arms before this post but ran into a small issue, I'll cover that completely in my next post as I'll cover the issue I ran into and the correction. I'm including my time spent up to this post, an extra 6 hrs, now I'm sitting at 17 hrs.
  3. Well I got no fish stories because the fish were not biting. The state of affairs with the striped bass populations along the East Coast is not good. The good old days of nailing big fish with regularity are gone. I guess I always have woodworking to keep me out of trouble.
  4. Bmac


    Stand corrected, wrong as the day is long. Never thought all 7 games were going to be won by the visiting team!
  5. I've often wondered about gluing in the dominos, I do it but I always wondered if it was necessary. I've also trended to using the smaller dominos, relying on the long grain bond. I love those little tiny #4 dominos, didn't use them in this project, but I do use them for most of my long grain glue ups. It's good to hear some of my thoughts are not mine alone.
  6. Another quick update. I plan on fishing this week and weekend so I likely won't get back to this for a few days and I wanted to tidy this post up by reviewing what I did the past 2 days. Now that the front legs are set I've moved to the back legs. After cutting them out on the bandsaw and flush trimming them using the back leg pattern it's on to a few other procedures before we cut the joints. First thing is to remove stock off the inside portion of the legs. We remove stock below the headrest area and leave the headrest and the seat joint area at full thickness. We aim for 1 1/4" thickness in these reduction areas and 1 1/2" at the arm joint area. Here's what that reduction looks like; An adder block needs to be added to the inside surface of the leg at the seat joint area. This adder block should measure 3 x 5 x 3/4".Here the adder block is added and I am squaring and truing up this surface to the outside of the leg; Once that is completed we need to cut a 6 degree angle into this adder block to get the classic Maloof Rocker look. Here I've marked out the orientation for this cut, this is a huge exaggeration in the angle, the real angle cut here will not be as harsh; I'll be using a jig that is set at 6 degrees to make this cut, but I won't be doing that cut in this post, that will be done next post. A note about the adder block, try to get the block out of the same board the leg is cut from, will help with grain and color matching. While the glueup of the adder block was drying I took the opportunity to knock out some other prep cuts. Doing these prep cuts during glueups really helps speed things along. When you follow Marc on his video he tackles each step and part individually. The key is knowing what you are safe to jump ahead with. Cutting the laminate strips for the rockers is definitely one area you can jump ahead with. Here are 20 strips, bundled in matching sets as they came off the bandsaw; I still have a little prep to do with these strips but once that's done I'll glueup the rockers. It's also smart to glueup the rockers early, esp since I only have one form. Doing these early are big time savers. Another area it is safe to jump ahead with is the spindles. Shaping these spindles is by far the most time consuming and arduous task of this project. Here they are before bandsawing; After bandsawing I put them side by side and clamp together. Notice the irregularities; The next step is not necessary but I think it makes for a little more consistent outcome. While clamped together I use the RAS and the sanders to even up the contours; Flip over and don't remove clamps. Blend this other side like the first; We then use the other spindle pattern to develop the correct side contours; Using this pattern is not the easiest and since I like my spindles slightly more narrow I get the first spindle cut and the shape refined at the spindle sander and I use this first spindle to draw my cut lines on the other spindles. Another big time saver; It's alittle hard to see the lines but here are the other spindles marked up and ready for the bandsaw; One last mark for these spindles is to mark the midline front and back. This serves as a guide when shaping begins. I'll cut and shape these spindles gradually throughout the project now that I have them prepped. I will wait until the spindle holes in the seat are drilled before I start shaping though. The upper part of the spindles will be refined and shaped after the headrest is fitted. You need to cut some excess off the top of these spindle at this step so reduction and shaping of this area will be held off until then. My next goals will be to get the back legs jointed and fitted to the seat. Once I have that done I can begin with the arms. Time spent on these procedures; 2.5 hrs, total is now 11 hrs.
  7. Bmac


    Harper will be the worst signing in Philly history when all is said and done for. His swing is just to big and long, when he hits 30 he goes down hill fast!
  8. Bmac


    I think she is about to belt out her song, but you are right she hasn't sung yet. I know a lot about the fat lady, I'm a Philly fan.
  9. Bmac


    Unfortunately for the Nats I just think the Astros are a better team. Nats had a heck of a season though, breaking their playoff jinx was big and they have a young team.
  10. True, a grinder can do the job well and is a much cheaper alternative. Still, the RAS is being discontinued by Festool and can be had for a decently reasonable price, around $200.
  11. True, I realize that, but the way he shows it in the video looked sketchy. Now let me preface this with the fact that I'm not a lathe expert, I don't have all the attachments, and I have an old belt driven lathe. It works great for basic turnings but is limited beyond that. Finally, I've never drilled a hole on the lathe so experience here was also an issue. So why I thought it was sketchy; In his video he had the chuck and bit in place and with the piece only supported by his hands he started to drill the hole with the lathe at low speed. Once he had the hole started he increased the speed of the lathe and turned the wheel on the tailstock to engage the leg and advance the leg to the proper hole depth. I didn't like that the piece was only supported by my hands and changing speeds on my lathe is not as simple as hitting a button. Also I don't have a drill bit chuck that fits my lathe, I could get one but with it being an older lathe I've bought attachments for it and some fit well and some don't. In the end I've developed this technique and it has worked well for me. Also I think it's a viable way to handle this dowel hole if you don't have a lathe and you shape this leg by hand.
  12. Here's another update on the Curly Maloof Rocker, I've tackled shaping the seat, cutting, fitting, jointing, turning, and dowel placement of front legs, and back leg prep. I started on scooping the seat further. As I said, after the presculpting it went pretty quick. Interestingly I rewatched Marc's video of him shaping his seat, and he used the angle grinder. I forgot how rough it left the surface. The RAS leaves a surface that is so much easier to sand. The technique I've developed for myself is probable best described as power shaping and sanding. Right next to my work bench sits the tools needed for this, all plugged into the Festool vac via a 3 way plug. All I need to do is grab the tool I want and put the hose on. I have 2 Festool Rotexs ( a 90 and a 125) and a RAS. These 3 do the heavy lifting along with some hand tools ( scrapers, rasps and sandpaper). Here's the seat, one side blended in and the other not quite there yet; Still need to develop a little more sweep in the leg area; You can see the nice gradual slope developed in the seat. Again, I see a lot of these chairs where the slope from the outline is steep and goes straight down to a large flat area, Think cradling the legs and backside; Here's the seat sanded to 120, I'll stop here for now but I still have some work to do; I wanted to show how the interface pads do such a great job of molding into the curves and slopes; Next are the front legs. Start by milling and getting the width to fit the width if the seat joint; Now that it we have the right width, next is to cut the joint into the leg. The top of the joint is 7" down from the top of the leg. I measure the exact width of the seat tenon, and I measure both to make sure they match exactly; Strike my cut lines; Set the blade to 1/2" high; Set the table saw fence and the Incra stop to the joint outline and cut like I did for the joint in the seat, that goes well and then I round off the inside of the leg at the joint area, got a good fit; Next is the turning of the leg. The turning is an off set turning, so I cut I cut some off the inside of the leg, then I need to reduce the width. With my technique I need to keep the centerline at the center after reducing it from the side. This will make sense soon; After doing pre-turning reduction I started turning; Here are both legs turned; Now you can see I left the ends square and I need to do this to drill the dowel hole into the center of the leg. Marc does this on the lathe and that just looked sketchy to me. With my technique I put a dowel centering jig on the square ends (hence keeping the centerline in the center!) and drill a 1/2" hole 1" deep; Went to the bandsaw to cut off some excess; Then I shaped these areas with rasps and the sanders; Now that the front legs are done, on to the back legs. Planed and jointed blanks, drew outline before I was off to the bandsaw; One important note, after bandsawing I need to pattern rout the legs. My 2" flush trim bit is 2" long so I need to make sure my legs are slightly under 2". Spanky sent me 9/4 lumber. I'm a little over so back to the planer; And here are the legs trimmed up; I not happy about the knot that showed up, I'm going to put that to the inside of the leg. I need to reduce that area before shaping so I hope most of it will get cut and sanded away. So next is back leg reduction, adding the adder blocks and cutting the back leg joint. I also want to find some time to start cutting the strips for the rockers and the back slats. I like to do these as I'm working on the major parts, to me it saves some time. Speaking of time here's a breakdown; Shaping seat- 1.5 hr, sizing frontlegs and cutting joints- 45 mins, turning frontlegs, dowel holes and shaping - 1.25 hr, milling back legs, cutting out on bandsaw, flush trimming- 45 mins That puts me at a total time of 8.75 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  13. Well after working with your curly maple, you just stick to cutting that because it is sweet!
  14. @Mark J, interesting info and I think @Tpt life made some good points. I've always thought long grain to long grain glue joints don't need reinforcement, but alignment is key here and the domino is awesome for alignment. I think a lot of the older woodworkers considered reinforcement necessary because they didn't have access to the glues we use today. Perhaps with hide glues reinforcement helps long term, any thoughts on this theory?
  15. Agree with Nut, definitely think it's a Norway Maple. I've obtained some logs in the past of that species. I think it works really well, I have had no issues with it as lumber. Spanky, this is a street tree and yard tree, doubt you run across this much. It is listed as an invasive species though.
  16. To do this with hand tools you could use carving gouges. Basically chisels shaped for this kind of work; Scorps do fit into this category and I actually own a few for chair making. A correct sized scorp used with a gouge or two would work well. Now if you want to do this with a power tool than a company named Arbortech has a sweet lineup of carving and shaping tools. Most are attachments that are used on an angle grinder. Looking at their lineup I think the Ball Gouge would make quick work of your job. Here's a link; Boy, after watching the video on that link I think I have some ideas for my Christmas List!!
  17. Don't tell me you made a curly cherry cross tie! That's not right, you can't do that. Isn't there a law or something against that.
  18. Using the dominoes are definitely for alignment first. The coopering of the seat makes the glueup very difficult without the dominoes, also the dominoes are critical to keep the correct orientation of the joints. Maloof believed they added some strength also, perhaps they do.
  19. I'm with you, I couldn't hold my router flat and it kept running on me. Using the starter pin is like an extra hand and I feel like I have so much more control. I will not use the grinder at all on this build, all RAS. It's not that I dislike the grinder, a grinder does a great job and is a little faster, but I do dislike the mess it makes. Also I feel like I have better control with the RAS. It won't run/jump on you and when you learn to use it you can be aggressive or really fine with it. Hopefully after this build I can make the case for the RAS and you'll give your RAS even more love.
  20. We are moving now. Here's my progress since last post.... This post I tackle the seat joints, pre-assembly shaping, and the seat glue up. Cut the back notches for the rear leg joints. A few thoughts here, first the size of the notch is only somewhat important. I try to be dead on but as you'll see with assembly there is extra seat here extending out past the rear leg. So if you cut the notch at 2 15/16ths" instead of 3", you'll be fine. The real big deal is the fact that this notch needs to be dead on square, I mean dead on. The front notches are only 1/4" deep, I set up the blade and the fences so the cut is done without needing any adjustments. Also I just leave on my standard blade and nibble away, quicker than setting up the dado stack; Against the Incra stop; Against the tablesaw fence; Cut is a little rough at first; Router plane makes quick work of this and gives me a perfectly flat surface. I would have used the router plane with the dado stack anyway, another reason I just use a standard blade for this notch. Once you have your notches it's time to route the notch to develop the classic Maloof joint outline. I find using the handheld router here a mistake waiting to happen. To me the router table with the starter pin in place gives me much more control; Few minutes later, looking good. With the maple I did get some burning, esp with the end grain. I don't think there is any avoiding this and the joint has a ton of gluing surface anyway; Now before I glue up the seat I'm going to take a minute to do some pre-assembly shaping. This helps a ton developing the contour of the future seat. The outside boards are placed next to the already cut boards they will be glued to. I strike a line for depth and begin shaping. Here you can see my guide lines; One side done; other side done. Take notice how little dust is present on the table. This operation was completed by the Festool Ras and took about 7 minutes per board!!! Is it necessary to do this pre-assembly shaping. No, but it helps. I can hold my RAS at an angle that is not possible when the seat is assembled. If you look at this photo you can see the RAS disc would be digging into the adjacent board. To do this operation once the seat is assembled you need to hold your grinder in a much more awkward and less effective angle; Here's a view of board number 4, I'm pretty aggressive with my reduction. I was aware of my domino placement and we should be fine. Once the seat is completely shaped then I would expect this area to be slightly over 3/4" at it's thinnest; Finally, all glued up, I almost forgot you need to put the seat in this position so glue doesn't drip down into your joints. Positioned wrong at first but caught myself; So you can see from above I'm well on my way to shaping this seat, it's nothing more than blending together the boards now. Also with shaping I think the biggest thing I see people do that I don't think looks good is they scoop out on the perimeter at a harsh slope to their depth then they have a large flat area 1" below the top of the seat. I want my slope to be more gradual and much less "flat" area. This shape tend to cradle the legs and the backside and is much more comfortable. I'll elaborate on this in the next post as shaping the seat is on the agenda then. These operations took just 1 hr, so I'm sitting at 4.5hrs so far. Thanks for looking.
  21. Yes, right now my plan is to use TransTint dye, I'll be testing it on a few scraps before putting it on the chair. After the dye I plan to use a oil/poly finish followed by an oil/wax finish. This will be the same finish Maloof used and I've had great luck with it on my previous chairs, but this will be the first chair I dye prior. Here's a few questions to people that have experience with dye, I've used it occasionally in the past, but not extensively. I know if mixed with water it will raise the grain and I'll have to resand. Does prewetting the wood help? Or is it better to use something like lacquer thinner with the dye? Are there any issues using a solvent like lacquer thinner instead of water? What gives the best most even coloring?
  22. As I've promised I'm going to journal my next Maloof Rocker build. This is one of my favorite all time builds and this will be my 5th rocker in the past 2 years (third rocker of this year). I started building chairs about 4 years ago and it has become an obsession to me. During that time period I've built approx 30 chairs. I've learned a lot along the way. For all those who have been wanting to start this build I'd encourage you to get started, it is a challenging but immensely satisfying build. Since this is a guild project I'll be following basically Marc's instructions and I'll point out where I've deviated from his directions. Marc does a great job with this build and with my first rocker I followed his directions down to the letter. Since then I've built chairs that were from plans supplied by Charles Brock and Scott Morrison. I've picked up a few tricks from these guys and my build will be an amalgamation of what I've learned from all three. The wood will be some gorgeous curly hard maple from @Spanky, I'm excited to use this lumber. I ordered two batches from him and one batch is a little more curly than the other, but I think it will all look great in the end. I know one thing, I'm saving every scrap of this during the build. Finally, in some of my past builds many of you have asked how long it takes me for one of these builds, I'll try my best to record the time I take to complete each step and try to keep a running tally as I go. I originally thought I'd start this around Thanksgiving, but I'm getting an earlier start. This build will be slow though, as it's prime surf fishing season here in the Mid-Atlantic region, and I'll be playing hooky from work and from the shop to wet a line. Started the project by going thru the stock and began milling the parts. The seat is made from 5 pieces, approx 4" wide and 22" long. I had a board that was 11" wide, I was able to get two 22" lengths from this board and then I was able to get two 4.25" wide boards from each length and one 2.5" wide board from each length. I glued these two thinner boards together to make the center board for the seat; Back legs, always good to get these from the same board and I had nice grain to follow at the bottom of the leg, headrest will likely come from the piece above and the adder blocks will come from the waste between the legs; The front legs and the arms; The back slats, you need 7, I'll cut out 8; The plan calls for the width of the back slats is to be 1.5", I like my slats a little skinnier, these will be around 1.25", to me wide back slats look clunky. No matter how wide the main part of the back slat is, it still goes down to a 3/8th" tenon into the headrest, so thinner back slats are not weaker; This is my piece for the rocker laminations, unfortunately I found some bark inclusions as I was prepping. I should have enough usable material and I can work around those inclusions; Once stock selection was completed I moved on to the 5 seat boards. Glued up the 2 skinnier boards, jointed, planed and cut to length. Once that is completed I need to cut the 3 degree bevels for the coopered seat. These bevels will be on both sides of the middle board and on the out side of both boards that join with the middle board. You can see the direction of the bevels marked on the end of the boards in this pic; ****Real quick, a point about the coopered seat, I've done these seats both ways, coopered and just flat. I do like the coopered look a little better, but it's not extreme. The flat seat also looks pretty darn good. The coopered seat is definitely an option you can use or skip.**** Cutting the bevels, table saw set at 3 degrees: Bevels cut and marking out domino placement; This next step is really a little tricky, you need to domino into a beveled surface on some boards. Marc does a nice job of this and cuts all his slots with the 90 degree guide on the domino retracted, and the base of the domino sitting on his workbench. This results in a domino slot positioned toward the bottom of the boards and out of the way for future sculpturing, but is very difficult to do on boards 2 and 4, as the bevel orientation makes it difficult to get a correctly positioned domino slot and have it perpendicular with the face of the board. But his technique works great for the centerboard joints. Below is a pic of the domino cutting the slots into the centerboard, you put the domino on the bench and slightly tilt to the face is perpendicular the the joint, it's hard to see if it's tilted, but it is, the opposing surface for this joint is 90 degrees, so you simply put the domino on the bench and plunge into the 90 degree surface; Now with the other joints, the angle of the bevel prevents you for doing what I did above. So instead I set the angle of the domino to 87 degrees and cut the slot using the fence. To do this you need to put the fence on the bottom of the board as the reference for your plunge cut; Charles Brock handles cutting the dominos a little differently than Marc did, and I do a mix of their techniques. Now that the dominos slots are cut, I assemble and cut the seat to the correct width, you do this by cutting the excess equally for both outside boards. Once the width is correct I draw the outline for sculpting the seat; Pre-sculpting bandsaw reduction is next. I want to cut my reduction with the 90 degree side of boards 2 and 4 on the bandsaw table, in this pic you see which side is which; I then draw a line 1" from the bottom and develop a reduction cut line from that. I take a lot off, I want a deep seat; Here's the board on the bandsaw, 90 degree jointed surface on the table. You can also see from the above pic I've got plenty of stock over my domino slots. The center board is tricky, you have a bevel on both sides; You can mess with your bandsaw table and put it at 3 degrees, or you can just cut from both sides, as the cut angles toward the surface and the end result is just a ridge in the middle of the board where your 2 cuts intersect; Here are my 3 center boards with their pre-sculpting cuts, you can see in the center board I just have a little ridge, toward the front I've cut out an outline for the pommel; Next are the joints that are cut into the outside boards and some pre-sculpting shaping. It's easier to do some gross shaping while the boards are apart. Almost forgot, I'm about 3.5 hours into this.
  23. I've used both techniques and much prefer the bandsaw removal preshaping technique, but both will work. The bandsaw technique gets you real close to symmetric reduction if your cuts are accurate. As for symmetry, you don't need to be exact. Your eye doesn't pick up little discrepancies, feeling the seat with your hand picks the discrepancies up way more than your eye. For symmetry get it looking symmetrical to your eye, then feel it with your hand marking high spots and reduce until it feels acceptable. The soft foam interface pads are great at helping get things smoothed out and more symmetrical.
  24. I got some great stock! It looks awesome. Won't be long Rickey before and I try turning it into a Rocker.
  25. Sure, I get that, but in the end it's still a bench. If it doesn't look beat up and used in 10 years you are not really doing work on it. Dog holes round or square? I went with round and am perfectly satisfied.