Bmac

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Posts posted by Bmac


  1. Ordered the plan from Morley. Really just schematics, absolutely no instruction, which I'm fine with. It will take some studying to figure it out but I will likely change it some. What's great about the schematics is it gives me an idea about measurements and angles in the chair. Maloof did a bunch of designs off this type of chair, but I've never had any guides to help me with them. 

    17 hours ago, pkinneb said:

    Not my style but I admire both his and your work so I look forward to following along when you get started. 

     

    11 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    I'm not a big MCM fan, but that chair is extremely well-executed. The spalted panel (ash??) is a killer detail in the otherwise very understated walnut frame.

    This style has only recently become more attractive to me. It's funny preferences can evolve or change. The panel is spalted sycamore and it is a cool detail. Not one I'm sure I'll keep though.

    10 hours ago, K Cooper said:

    If anyone can add a little pizzaz in a good way, we know he can. Look forward to another great instructional journal! 

    This one is going to take some thinking, I'd really like to see it with more sculptured features, esp in the arms. The arms look so boring to me in this piece. Here are some Maloof samples;

    Walnut Hueter Chair with black leather upholstery

    Walnut Fan back chair/black tufted leather seat

    And my favorite from Maloof;

    Lounge Chair

    So I'll see what I can figure out. Any thoughts?

    • Like 1

  2. 1 hour ago, Spanky said:

    You woodworkers need to be buying up cherry and walnut lumber. They are both at a rock bottom price. 4/4 Fas Kiln Dried Cherry at $1.50 bdft. 4/4 Fas Kiln Dried Walnut at $3.58 bdft. That’s the Hardwood Market Report this week. Just wait till China starts back to buying the lumber. They have killed the lumber price this year. The best red oak   log at 0.45 bdft in the log. 4/4 Fas Kiln Dried Red Oak lumber at $1.12 bdft. The sawmill guy’s are starting to cry.

    That is enough to make a sawmill guy cry. 

    Have prices of logs dropped considerably also?


  3. 11 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

    Nonsense. The price was right. it was only about $200 for all the wood. Can't get maple for that. Probably can't even get #2com oak for that.

    There was a lot of sap and wane in the boards for the top so half of this would have ended up as scrap anyway. It ate about 80 BF of cherry and by my estimates it'd have made 3 maybe 4 chairs depending on placement of sapwood and defects.

    It has pretty good looking figure, that's all I was getting at.

    I think I get some of my prettiest cherry from cherry logs that are not the straightest or cleanest. When it's dried it may have wane sapwood, but it has character.

     

    • Like 1

  4. 34 minutes ago, Spanky said:

    Bmac I think the next rocker needs to be curly white oak. But you will need to be big buddies with a sawmill guy that cuts alot of white oak to get 10/4.

    I know, none of this 4/4 stuff is going to get that done. I do have quarter sawn 9/4 drying on my property, but that stuff dries slow!!!


  5. 10 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    @Bmac, all three of those chairs are incredibly beautiful! At the risk of offending anyone, can I ask if you know of a design the takes a smaller footprint? The Maloof style is pure grace, but just eats so much space....

    True, the footprint is big. What dimensions were you thinking of reducing? I'm sure you could make the rockers 5-6" shorter with no problem, you could change the angle of the back legs to 3 degrees instead of 6 to decrease width at the top, and you could probably even lower the back rest some. I think all those are probably simple enough mods. I think the look would not suffer too much and it would likely be just as comfortable.

    1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

    I'm amazed at how fast you can churn these out. The end result is beautiful and does not look like you spent less than 100 hours on it.

    You know, I honestly was a little shocked at my time. I was wondering if I was shaving time off like rounding down 15 minute here or there, but still if I did that I would have only added an hr or two in the end.

    I think my speed is based on a few things, first it was my 5th rocker and I'm not sure how many sculptured pieces before this. Second, I've made enough of this Maloof furniture that I don't have to think twice about my shaping. My mind already envisions it and my hands have had practice getting there. In the beginning it's typical to be hesitant and go much more slowly in fear of making a mistake. I've over come that fear and just plow ahead. Finally, and probably most significant, I have developed a system. Combining the tools I'm comfortable with and a process I refer to as power shaping/sanding I am able to work faster. Combining the RAS, the interface pads, and the rasps I do 90% of the rough shaping with those. I love the Festool 90 Rotex for it's small shape/profile, light weight, and ability to use with one hand and not get fatigued. The 90 may not be the most powerful Rotex, but it helps immensely with the process. I think any brand of smaller sander would work with the interface pad, but I do the the aggressive mode that Rotex offers.

    1 hour ago, Mark J said:

    Whoa!  Between the grain, finish and contours, that takes your breath away.  I can't imagine ever tackling a project like that.  

    I'm sure you can tackle this project, those crazy shapes you make take my breath away. This project is just like any other, one step at a time.

    • Like 2

  6. 2 hours ago, Spanky said:

    Bmac, that rocker needs to come back to the mtns of Tennessee ;). Hey, you done a great job on that rocker! I was hoping that you wouldn’t be disappoint with the wood.

    Rickey, that wood was a real pleasure to work, now I hope you can find some more this winter!!!!!

    1 hour ago, K Cooper said:

    Some may consider this sac religious but, with all due respect, I don’t think Mr. Maloof could have done or, did any better! Well done Bmac on the chair and the journal. 

    Coop you are way to kind. I think it is sacrilegious to say that. I'm just trying to copy the original. Glad you liked the journal, I find doing a journal helps me to do my best. Now I want to see what you make out of Rickey's awesome curly maple!!!


  7. 1 hour ago, JohnG said:

    :wub::wub::wub:

    Absolutely gorgeous! Now that you have made one in walnut, cherry, and maple, which did you like working with the most for the rocker?

    Which one is the least comfortable? I'll take it off your hands for you :P

     

    24 minutes ago, Chet said:

    I think you should have done a "real time" video of all of this so we could have enjoyed the joyless task with you. :)

    Normally a persons most recent project is there favorite but of the three rockers do you gravitate towards one?

    You most certainly did a great job on this one.

    First, all 3 woods, cherry, walnut and maple, were ideal for this project. The tiger maple with all its figure really turned up the wow factor and was very easy to work with. I've made 2 of these rockers before these 3, and those first two were cherry. Can't really say I have a favorite wood, I think all the woods worked similarly and all took just as long to sand. This chair is a real labor of love, by the time I'm done I've felt every surface, edge, joint, corner and roundover hundreds of times. The hand sanding is tiresome, but at least at that point you can see the chair and it's nice form and shape, that's enough to encourage one forward through the repetitive parts. 

    In the end the tiger maple is by far the prettiest one I've built. That figure just popped! So I guess @Chet the tiger maple is my favorite.

    @JohnG Unfortunately for you they are all very comfortable! Actually the cherry rocker is a Christmas gift for my father. I'll keep the walnut and curly maple ones with me. I hope to make a few white oak ones for the porch in the future.

     

    • Like 2

  8. This subject prompted me to do some quick research. Roasted wood the same thing as torrefied, thermally treated or tempered vulcanized wood. As Tpt mentioned above it created a wood that is more resistant to decay and moisture changes. The process actually changes the cellular structure to the point that wood shrinkage and and expansion becomes negligible to changes in moisture. It commonly used by Luthiers for guitar necks.

    Here's a quick article for DIY roasted wood;  https://www.popularwoodworking.com/nov15/roast-your-own/#


  9. Moving along nicely. Gluing up thinner boards to make thicker stock can be grunt work, but you are right it has it's advantages in that you can pick your best outside surfaces. 

    Question on stock, I thought you were using pine for this. Is it going to be pine for the top and birch for the base or did you just decide to go with birch. 


  10. 1 hour ago, pkinneb said:

    Looks great Bmac! I have another question is there a reason you didn’t use a one piece block for the riser between the rocker and the leg?

    Well the reason for the laminates is you are gluing the riser onto a surface that is not flat, but rather has a curve. So the strips that make up the riser become part of the curved lamination that is the rocker.

    45 minutes ago, Chet said:

    Did you give any thought to doing some of the shaping on things like the rockers using a spoke shave?

    Absolutely a spoke shave works on shaping a lot of these areas. I've really gravitated toward the rasps because of their versatility and the fact you don't need to pay attention to grain direction and etc like you do with a spoke shave.

    19 minutes ago, Tom King said:

    Maybe the best build thread ever!!

    That's pretty high praise and I've humbled you would even think that. Thanks for the kind words.


  11. 1 hour ago, drzaius said:

    We did some work in a large, brand new cabinet shop a couple years ago & they had no central DC at all. Every machine that made dust had it's own DC & filtration. The owner said it was more economical that way, largely because of fire regs associated with large DC systems. But that strategy also take more room.

    Yes it can take more room, but with some planning you can do it without using much floor space. My unit for the table saw is able to sit under my outfeed table. My shop vac for the miter saw and spindle sander sits under the table that they sit on. My sander vac also lives under a workbench. 
     


  12. I’ve improved my dust collection quite a bit over the past 15-20 years. I did it gradually and I have a dedicated separate building for my shop.

    Because I did it gradually I’ve gravitated to smaller tool specific dust collection. Shop vac for planer, smaller shop vac for miter saw and spindle sander, 1hp mobile unit for jointer and small bandsaw, 2hp dedicated unit for bigger bandsaw, a small canister type Rikon for the table saw, and a dedicated vac for sanding. Ended up with piecemeal units and never put in ducts. The shop vacs double for overall shop cleanup and everyone needs at least one in the shop. Starting your dust collection with a shop vac or two is a good way to get into it. Dust collection for sanders are a big must in my opinion.
    No matter what you use the miter saw and table saw are hard to get good results. At least the units I use capture the finer dust.

    I do hate wearing a respirator type mask, absolutely hate it. I do wear it, but not as often as I should. 


  13. I don’t think a a table as small as you are looking at, 4’ x approx 3’, will have a problem with 3/4” stock, esp if you “framed” it with another layer. I was thinking you could put the extra thickness far enough under the table to attach the apron. So let’s say you frame the bottom with 4” of extra stock and at the end grain I would not put the 4” piece across the grain, I would use a series of 4” long pieces that would match the grain direction of the top. Also you could glue extra thickness where the bottom supports attach. 
    I guess my suggestion would be more in line with expensive stock. Nevertheless, gluing up two boards for the whole top would also work well, but that’s a lot of gluing and I would think more work than if you just did the frame idea.
    I’m assuming you be needing to glue up two boards or maybe three for the legs, correct?

    i do like the design.

    • Like 1