Bmac

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Everything posted by Bmac

  1. Thanks Chet, my version is far from exact dimensions of the original, guessed at a lot of measurements. Glad you've enjoyed following along. Thanks John. I'll be happy to share templates but don't expect video lessons to go along with them. I'll tell you those new saws are terribly expensive. I've had great luck buying refurbished used Stihl 660's. The nice thing about the 660's is they are easy to repair and get parts for. Dropping $600 or so bucks for a used one is a big savings. Ha, you got me figured out.
  2. The upholstery guy said he'll need to test it some to figure out how much to bulk up the cushions. When we looked at the photo's of the originals he did comment that the cushions are pretty full contoured. When you are ready I can send you the templates.
  3. Purchased a few books on MCM and Danish Modern, not how to books but very much picture books for inspiration. I will say that because the books are not woodworking centered, you'll get pics of all different materials used for the furniture in these books. It is helpful to see the lines and shapes though. Here are the few I think are somewhat helpful. This book on Danish Modern is fairly interesting, and cheap. Not a bad reference but absolutely no woodworking insight, purely visual and inspirational. https://www.amazon.com/Danish-Modern-Andrew-Hollingsworth/dp/1586858114/ref=sr_1_3?k
  4. I can understand your sense of satisfaction, you have a neat design that you envisioned years ago and you are building chairs. As a self proclaimed chair junkie by @Mark J, nothing is more satisfying than building chairs. Maybe I'm reading to much into your comment or maybe you are feeling the first symptoms of chair addiction. Things are looking great with the chairs and congrats!
  5. Thanks Paul. I'm actually really surprised myself how well it's going. I've had a few things not go perfectly, the back supports looking too short and the length of front leg above the chair too short for perfect arm stock placement, but those were easy to correct. I think I've just made enough Maloof chairs that I understand his construction. There is no way in a million years I would have figured this out otherwise. One annoying aspect of this build is I have to wait until the very end to actually sit in the chair, no early test "sits". In fact the upholstery guy will be the first to s
  6. Quick update, I've been out of town for a dental mission trip. Finally getting over my jet lag and into the swing of things. Before I left i glued the back supports to the frame. This lets me move on to the arms. My design was slightly off as my 10/4 stock for the arms did not match up as well from the front leg to the arm stem on the back rest. Really needed my front leg .5" higher and I would have been dead on. So I made a new "longer" template for future reference and I glued .5" pieces to the front part of the arm stock. Arms were perfect then and fit the stock to the chair and shaped my a
  7. OK, this will be real simple then, you won't even need templates for this. Cut your leg blanks to full width and then do your joinery, you could even do traditional mortise and tenon joinery here. After your joinery is completed cut away the excess material. Here is a pic to further explain. The hatched area is the area you remove after joinery completed. Then you do glue up and sculpt the pieces together.
  8. I just caught back up to this. I misunderstood what you were going to do with the end spacers that are glued cross grain to the case. I thought you were going to make vertical cuts into the spacer to relieve the potential restriction of movement of the case. If you make a few vertical cuts into and through the spacer these cuts will not be visible and they will allow the case to move more freely. No longer would you need to hope the spacers "stretch" if the side of the case expands. I think this is an easy thing to do that would add some piece of mind.
  9. There are a lot of ways to do this, templates are basically essential. With the shaping I use rasps, gouges, sanders, and die grinders. Here are some examples of what I used to make Jory Brigham's Hank Chair. With this I start with a full size template and cut the full size into smaller pieces: Then trace my pieces to my stock. Notice how I use existing straight edges for certain orientation of pieces; With this project I then used the template to set the angle of my cuts; This really simplifies it, and there are other ways to do this. Doing a table
  10. You have a few options for this joint and builders of MCM furniture used differing methods; First, the easiest is using the Domino for this type of joint. The MCM builders 60 years ago did not have this technology, but it is commonly employed now for this type of joint. Second, floating tenons. Morley uses these I believe. Third, dowels. Fourth, screws and glue with a plug covering the screw hole. Here is an example of this type of joint, attaching a chair back to a leg using the domino system; Once it's glued the piece is sculpted and shaped
  11. Yes, I thought about that also, the thinner internal piece will likely lessen the problem.
  12. I like that idea, didn't even think of it. Could even do 2 grooves if need be, not sure how long the end pieces are. Do you think the vertical grooves will affect smooth drawer movement? If they do I'm sure you can come up with a solution for that as you move forward, and as you said the grooves will be completely hidden. By separating the internal piece you've likely solved the main problem of the cross grain glue up! Great idea!
  13. Just got back in town, I've been meaning to comment on this. My vote is maple, curly maple or ambrosia maple. Better yet some Spanky curly ambrosia maple is the best in my book. Here are a few examples; Cherry with walnut looks pretty darn nice at first, but that look "fades" with time. As the cherry gets darker the walnut gets lighter. Many of my early pieces were these two woods together, and now it's hard to tell them apart. Here are a few examples from a bed I made years ago;
  14. Much better solution for the drawer dividers, getting the grain running with the top and bottom is something you really needed to do. You could have gotten away with the other setup if you just glued the front edge of the dividers and left the rest floating in the dado. Because you are covering the dividers with your drawers you would have been ok (no end grain showing that would look out of place), but you still would have the issue of expansion and possible buckling of the case. I like the change to getting the grain matching the top and bottom of the case. I am still concerned long te
  15. Well my point is a lot of chairs you buy today are not going to have the joinery you plan to use. Most mass produced chairs are just held together with dowels. Regardless of their construction, 6 x $325 is $2000, minus your $450 investment saves a decent sum. I know it's not massive but sounds like you have an argument to add a new tool to the shop, or at least buy some more lumber!
  16. Really like the detail in that backrest, very cool. What you are making would be so expensive to buy. Most mass produced chairs are lacking very much in quality. Not many pieces of furniture get worked as hard as a chair. It's one thing to buy a mass produced cabinet, no one sits on it or drags it across the floor. Mass produced chairs cannot hold up to what people put them through.
  17. Finally got some time in the shop and I'm navigating new territory right now. I've got the bottom or "base of the chair glued up. I've also got the back of the chair glued up. Just need to glue these together then start on the arms; I've lengthened the back supports and it looks much better to my eye. Everything is fitting together great and before i move to the next step I need some approval from the upholstery guy. I've got the seat supports squared away for the seat cushion and they are glued in place. The supports for the back cushion are a little tricky. My guy want supports at
  18. Very true, those portable mills are portable, but you still need to get the log on the mill. Dragging a log out of a ravine or out of the woods is no easy task. Nothing is as portable as a chainsaw mill, and nothing works you out as hard. I agree with you that keeping the logs smaller helps, but you do end up losing some on each end with possible checking. My sweet spot is about 7 to 8 feet. Why? Well my truck has an 8 ft bed, any longer the boards get too heavy, and I have a bunch of 8 metal roofing to cover my piles. Also I always mill thick and resaw in the shop, minimizes loss of mat
  19. Nailed it there Tom. If you can't move logs the bandsaw mill is a problem. Also with no hydraulics on the mill it makes it tough, but not impossible. I love my chainsaw mills because of it's portability. Works great for me to mill all the wood I can use.
  20. First time milling with a new saw, picked up a Stihl 084 this fall, 122 cc's of milling power. Got it used of course, matches well with my three Stihl 660s (2 were bought used, the other is a Stihl clone). Milling is hard on saws and I frequently have had one of the 660s in the shop during my milling season. I think I have an issue with chainsaws, I own 8.
  21. Those will sit outside under cover for at least 2 summers, likely longer. I then rotate them into the shop where I try to let them sit for a few more months. I can get them down to about 8-9% that way.
  22. Beats a day in the office, that's for sure. Milled up 2 cherry and 1 walnut log. All total about 2.5 hrs of hard labor. I'll sleep well tonight. Still have a few walnut and cherry logs to harvest this winter. So many chairs to make.
  23. Thanks guys for all the comments, I've enjoyed reading everyone's thoughts. A few comments from what I've read. @Chet, so right that many of us have different styles in our home as we have the ability to build what we like. I too have a mish mash of styles and it doesn't bother me because I know I have pieces that are well made and expensive to buy. @curlyoak, great point about the medium in which we work, using beautiful wood really makes a piece, regardless of style. For those who like the ornate styles, I completely understand your attraction to it. It classic and challenging
  24. Coop, I was with you on the MCM style a few years ago, couldn't figure out it's attraction. The Ikea like look was a real issue with me too, esp all the plywood used in pieces. But looking at pieces from some builders (Maloof, NakiShima, Esherick, and even Krenov) they upped the bar on this MCM style and it has sucked me in. Also, with my love of chairs this style has alot to choose from. @Chestnut I just ordered a few MCM books, I'll get you a review in a couple weeks. Real excited with a book I found the ranked the 100 best MCM chair designs.
  25. With small hand sanders I prefer the smaller dedicated units. The larger unit you linked to should definitely be a possibility but for my smaller tools the shop vacs, two prime examples are Fein and Festool, will probably do a better job at the localized fine dust extraction you produce with hand sanders. Here's a link; https://www.rockler.com/the-best-in-shop-vacuums-fein-vs-festool My Festool "dust extractor" sits under a work bench right where I do a lot of my sanding. Small footprint and out of the way. Turns on automatically when I turn on my sander. Never think about it. Love i