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About LarryJ

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  1. It is indeed a cool looking chair, that's why I pulled it from the trash bin. Too bad it's a most uncomfortable one. Too late for the oxalic acid, but thanks for the tip. The black streaks actually look good to me. I used a combo stain/poly mix which I'll never use again.
  2. No one suggested pressure washing. I put on a dark stain-poly combo. Will never use that stuff again. Too thick and dries too quick.
  3. I'm done sanding. Stains won't come out. Considered paint, but thought something else would seal better. More sanding was done after the chain was photographed as one piece.
  4. Trying to rescue a yellow balau wood patio chair that was in my neighbors garbage pile. One of the chairs was too rotted to save. I've sanded all the surface mold/mildew and rot, but water staining remains, as well as cracks. What's the best finish to give this chair a descent look and help preserve the wood. [url=][img][/img][/url] [url=][img][/img][/url]
  5. I'm thinking I'll just glue up some thick boards and go from there, rather than the live edge route. Thanks for all the input.
  6. 10 years! Are you being serious? Just a guy on craigslist selloing it. I looked at it this morning. Intellegent guy who seemed knowledgeable. He gets wood from friends who are in the tree cutting business. Has another guy mill it. Not a chainsaw mill. When I told him that I planned to use it for a countertop, he mentioned that cedar was soft and may not be the best choice. Suggested that I use an epoxy finish rather than poly which was going to be my choice. He also said the slab would be dry (13-16% moisture) in just a few weeks. I need to do more studying before making
  7. Thanks for the replies. Most likely, it's eastern red cedar. I'm on the east coast. I looked at some pics of other people's tops online. The nice ones look to be 2" thick or more. The seller just milled them at 1.25". Probably too thin and too wet for my current needs. Unknown Craftsman, I don't understand "1 inch 9 sixteenths and one 32nd". I think the live edge will let everyone know it's custom. subscribed
  8. Going to look at some live edge cedar tomorrow for use as an "eat-in" countertop in my house. It will be at a pass-thru from kitchen to living room. Maybe 16" wide. What's the minimum thickness you'd recommend for this type of countertop and how long should it dry before working with it and sealing. I certainly plan to support it on the kitchen side of the wall.
  9. How do you like media blasting for stripping or cleaning used furniture that will be refinised. What works best? What's a good affordable system for the home hobbyist? I've seen a few videos where they use baking soda and garnet to strip and I was amazed. Would sand work without damaging the piece. I image that the pros use one or all of these methods.
  10. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into it after the glue dries.
  11. Using the shop vac to pull glue through is brilliant! I won't need the glue syringe I picked up from woodcraft. Was able to get sandpaper in most of the way and give it a few stokes. It's all clamped up. Thanks for the suggestion.
  12. Can scrapers be used on soft woods?
  13. Card scraper on cedar? Would have been more enjoyable than all the sanding I did.
  14. Working on refinishing a cedar wardrobe with a crack in the door near the hinge, likely from the door opening back on the piece. My repair approach is to try to squeeze some glue in the crack and screw on a support strip on the back of the door like the existing one. Any other repair suggestions?
  15. On my refinish project, I've done a great deal of sanding with 60 grit, much more than I expect to be doing with the finer finish grit. I rarely do woodworking, but isn't this the norm; more sanding on the rough end than on the finish end?