Sawdustdad

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About Sawdustdad

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    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Virginia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Period furniture

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  1. Moving green lumber directly indoors, especially in the winter is not the best move. Wood needs to dry slowly or it will check/crack/split if there is too great a moisture differential between the interior and exterior of the board. Best to sticker green lumber outdoors, covered, with good air circulation until it reaches equilibrium (varies by locale). At least a year per inch of thickness. Then move indoors to acclimate. I normally move it into the shop an let it sit another year or more. Need to plan ahead!
  2. Redwood is a prefect wood for door construction, and quite stable. I'd let it acclimate in your shop for a week or two before milling. Rough mill to approximate dimension, let sit another week, then final mill. Same process for any lumber being used for door construction.
  3. I bought mine in about 1985. I do also have a Wolf rig for my slow speed 8 inch grinder for sharpening lathe tools, and that works very well, especially for bowl gouges.
  4. There are things you can do with a router table that are not really practical on a shaper--like stop dadoes. Easy on a router table. I like the router table for such tasks as I have plywood specific router bits that cut perfect rabbets/dadoes. So I use my router table (lift mounted in TS extension) for dados, rabbets, and pattern routing. I use my Delta 3hp shaper for cabinet doors (raising panels, cope and stick joints) tongue and groove, glue joints, lock miters, etc. The Woodmaster molding machine comes out for crown, picture frames, etc. Obviously, if possible you should have both a router table and a shaper, but given a choice, I'd get the router table. The shaper requires a higher level of safety awareness due to the power of the tool, and larger cutters.
  5. I agree ripping out the pith would help significantly, but I'll add a possible alternative that you could try. You could fasten several cleats to the underside and pull it flat with a series of screws in slotted holes. If that works, then you might avoid the ripping and re-gluing. If it didn't work, then you could still rip it and re glue it. The advantage of the cleats is that they may hold it flat indefinitely. Just don't screw through the top surface....
  6. I have one of these makita water cooled sharpeners. It won't handle my planer knives, but I do use it for jointer knives and it's the bomb for plane irons, chisels, etc. I normally go to the water stones for polishing after using the makita.
  7. Seems like I could sell a few boards and buy a Sawstop.
  8. That board would have cracked eventually any way. Better now before you invested more time in it. Looks like it might be the pith? That is, the center of the tree? You will routinely see the pith split, so it's best to avoid using it in a project. Rip the board down the split, remove the damaged wood and glue it back together. Wood splits for different reasons. Sometimes it is differential shrinkage when drying. Sometimes the logs sit too long before being milled and checks occur in the round log and then show up in the boards later. Sometimes the logs crack when they are felled due to stresses. Sometimes the tree cracks due to growing conditions/wind stress, etc.
  9. From that list of choices, agree birch or maple. Personally, if painting the cabinets, I'd go to MDO and probably not have to do anything to the edges but paint them, saving a bunch of effort.
  10. This is exactly it. Sublimation will provide some drying, albeit at a substantially lower rate. Think about those shrinking ice cubes left in a freezer for a long time.
  11. These are directly on joists? What is underneath? conditioned space? Any vapor barrier? Lots of stuff to consider. Is this finished flooring or subflooring? (1 x 6s at a 45 deg. angle was common for years as a subfloor). Joist spacing? flooring perpendicular to joists? Wood species? and dimensions? There is a reason square edged boards are not used for finished flooring. Actually, several reasons. Tell us more about what you are doing.
  12. I don't know how you can accurately resaw a board that doesn't have at least two adjacent sides flat and true. I generally don't see a lot of movement after resawing but I work with air dried lumber that's been drying for 5 to 10 years or more. I suppose there is a chance that movement after resawing will make a rough board MORE true (requiring less planing) but that would be pure luck. I don't know. but I always true up the lumber then resaw it. Generally only have to plane the one cut face. I'd be interested in what others do in this situation...
  13. It requires great accuracy to turn an 8/4 board into a pair of finished 3/4 inch boards. If you are getting a pair of 11/16 boards when finished, you are doing pretty well. The main issue is an inaccurate resawing process where there is enough variation in thickness of the pair of boards that you can't get both boards planed smooth at the 3/4 dimension. Some tips. 1. mill the 8/4 board straight, S4S 2. Strive for perfect resaw accuracy, even if you have to go to the table saw for part of the effort or by ripping from both edges. 3. accept that the final product might not quite make 3/4. allow for this in your design. Usually, bookmatched panels go in doors, so you really don't need 3/4 inch there. 5/8 or even 1/2 is usually fine. If I needed 3/4 inch bookmatched panels, I'd start with thicker lumber, 10/4 or 12/4 and be left with a third board at less than 3/4 for some other project. Or I'd veneer the panel. I can't think of a time when I needed 3/4 inch book matched lumber, but I guess a table top might be one case. I've veneered such situations.
  14. Everyone has their favorite wood, either because it is available, meets budgets, or because it just works wonderfully. I have my favorites for all these reasons, but if cost was no object, here's my short list: 1. All time favorite is Black Cherry. Machines to sharp edges, smells soooo good. Ages beautifully to a deep orange then ruby red. Refuse to use any sap wood, though, as it never darkens and stands out like a sore thumb over time. 2, Since cost is no object, next up is mahogany. I love a great ribbon figure, with the chatoyance that comes out with a clear finish. It works cleanly with no fuzz, has a pleasant aroma. Generally very stable. 3. Black Walnut. The chocolate brown color is so rich looking and again, it machines great. Dust/odor can be irritating to some, but doesn't bother me much. A couple other woods that are great to work, but are not very common--don't have any of this stuff any more, but have come across stashes of it from time to time and usually snap it up when I find it. 1. Wormy Chestnut. Here in Virginia, they still find standing dead trees up in the mountains (for you guys out west, we use the term "mountains" loosely. Your translation would be "foot hills".) So occasionally someone will pull such a tree out and have it milled. I've been through 200bf of wormy chestnut from a purchase about 30 years ago, saving it for unique projects. A lot of picture frames and a few hall mirrors. Another source is reclaimed barn beams that have been resawn. Need to worry about nails with this stuff! Chestnut was a very common lumber up until the blight. It machines easily, leaves a clean edge, and is relatively lightweight. 2. Butternut. The "blonde" walnut. This is an interesting wood. It is lighter than walnut, and fuzzes a little on machining, so sharp tools are needed. Stains beautifully and can mimic either mahogany or walnut, depending on the stain applied. It's very stable. Great for drawer sides or an entire project. Here's a chest in Butternut.
  15. I have an older Delta tenoning jig. Don't use it very often, but when you need it, you need it. I, too, use a dado stack for most tenons.