• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Sawdustdad

  1. Moving green lumber directly indoors, especially in the winter is not the best move. Wood needs to dry slowly or it will check/crack/split if there is too great a moisture differential between the interior and exterior of the board. Best to sticker green lumber outdoors, covered, with good air circulation until it reaches equilibrium (varies by locale). At least a year per inch of thickness. Then move indoors to acclimate. I normally move it into the shop an let it sit another year or more. Need to plan ahead!
  2. Redwood is a prefect wood for door construction, and quite stable. I'd let it acclimate in your shop for a week or two before milling. Rough mill to approximate dimension, let sit another week, then final mill. Same process for any lumber being used for door construction.
  3. I bought mine in about 1985. I do also have a Wolf rig for my slow speed 8 inch grinder for sharpening lathe tools, and that works very well, especially for bowl gouges.
  4. There are things you can do with a router table that are not really practical on a shaper--like stop dadoes. Easy on a router table. I like the router table for such tasks as I have plywood specific router bits that cut perfect rabbets/dadoes. So I use my router table (lift mounted in TS extension) for dados, rabbets, and pattern routing. I use my Delta 3hp shaper for cabinet doors (raising panels, cope and stick joints) tongue and groove, glue joints, lock miters, etc. The Woodmaster molding machine comes out for crown, picture frames, etc. Obviously, if possible you shou
  5. I agree ripping out the pith would help significantly, but I'll add a possible alternative that you could try. You could fasten several cleats to the underside and pull it flat with a series of screws in slotted holes. If that works, then you might avoid the ripping and re-gluing. If it didn't work, then you could still rip it and re glue it. The advantage of the cleats is that they may hold it flat indefinitely. Just don't screw through the top surface....
  6. I have one of these makita water cooled sharpeners. It won't handle my planer knives, but I do use it for jointer knives and it's the bomb for plane irons, chisels, etc. I normally go to the water stones for polishing after using the makita.
  7. Seems like I could sell a few boards and buy a Sawstop.
  8. That board would have cracked eventually any way. Better now before you invested more time in it. Looks like it might be the pith? That is, the center of the tree? You will routinely see the pith split, so it's best to avoid using it in a project. Rip the board down the split, remove the damaged wood and glue it back together. Wood splits for different reasons. Sometimes it is differential shrinkage when drying. Sometimes the logs sit too long before being milled and checks occur in the round log and then show up in the boards later. Sometimes the logs crack when they are felled due t
  9. From that list of choices, agree birch or maple. Personally, if painting the cabinets, I'd go to MDO and probably not have to do anything to the edges but paint them, saving a bunch of effort.
  10. This is exactly it. Sublimation will provide some drying, albeit at a substantially lower rate. Think about those shrinking ice cubes left in a freezer for a long time.
  11. These are directly on joists? What is underneath? conditioned space? Any vapor barrier? Lots of stuff to consider. Is this finished flooring or subflooring? (1 x 6s at a 45 deg. angle was common for years as a subfloor). Joist spacing? flooring perpendicular to joists? Wood species? and dimensions? There is a reason square edged boards are not used for finished flooring. Actually, several reasons. Tell us more about what you are doing.
  12. I don't know how you can accurately resaw a board that doesn't have at least two adjacent sides flat and true. I generally don't see a lot of movement after resawing but I work with air dried lumber that's been drying for 5 to 10 years or more. I suppose there is a chance that movement after resawing will make a rough board MORE true (requiring less planing) but that would be pure luck. I don't know. but I always true up the lumber then resaw it. Generally only have to plane the one cut face. I'd be interested in what others do in this situation...
  13. It requires great accuracy to turn an 8/4 board into a pair of finished 3/4 inch boards. If you are getting a pair of 11/16 boards when finished, you are doing pretty well. The main issue is an inaccurate resawing process where there is enough variation in thickness of the pair of boards that you can't get both boards planed smooth at the 3/4 dimension. Some tips. 1. mill the 8/4 board straight, S4S 2. Strive for perfect resaw accuracy, even if you have to go to the table saw for part of the effort or by ripping from both edges. 3. accept that the final product might no
  14. Everyone has their favorite wood, either because it is available, meets budgets, or because it just works wonderfully. I have my favorites for all these reasons, but if cost was no object, here's my short list: 1. All time favorite is Black Cherry. Machines to sharp edges, smells soooo good. Ages beautifully to a deep orange then ruby red. Refuse to use any sap wood, though, as it never darkens and stands out like a sore thumb over time. 2, Since cost is no object, next up is mahogany. I love a great ribbon figure, with the chatoyance that comes out with a clear finish. It works
  15. I have an older Delta tenoning jig. Don't use it very often, but when you need it, you need it. I, too, use a dado stack for most tenons.
  16. I love that router table! Super nice job. The gold hardware is a very nice touch. Agree with Eric on some air flow needed to the router compartment. Perhaps a louvered vent on the door? I cut a 4 inch dia. hole in the router box under my TS extension. I only use the router for dados, patterning and a few quick tasks. Shaper does all the big stuff.
  17. Sawdustdad

    Shop Move

    I moved my shop last year and can attest to it being a major undertaking. I packed and moved several pickup truck loads of smaller tools, then hired a moving company to move some furniture out of the house so it could be put on the market to be sold. I told the moving company they needed a truck with a Tommy Lift (lift tail gate), They finally understood when they went to move my 20 inch planer. They had nothing suitable to lift it or move it, and the three guys were no match for it. We rolled it to the doorway and rigged a plywood ramp to the lift gate. Barely made it. The TS, Shaper,
  18. I put up shelf brackets from HD/Lowes. Lagged to studs.
  19. I'm Sawdustdad everywhere except THT. Still quite active over there. Glad to have found this site. I've got three bathrooms and a wet bar to remodel over the coming winter, so it will keep me out of the furniture business for a few months, but a Newport style block front desk is on my list of future efforts.
  20. Eric, any progress on the JK project with that sycamore? The only use I've found for sycamore is drawer sides. QS is quite stable when dry and a clear finish shows the chatoyance nicely. You'll see it from time to time in 1940s/1950s manufactured furniture as well--again, as a secondary wood. It's harder than poplar at about the same cost here in Virginia. Sycamore grows big with high first limbs in the damp forest areas near rivers and marshes. Have a few big ones on the property here. You don't see poplar as drawer sides because it's a little soft (drawer sides wear against the runn
  21. Sorry, Eric, missed this question on reply. That is a restoration. It is an c.1830 American walnut chest of drawers. It has 20 inch wide single board sides and top, all three of which had split due to cross grain construction (drawer supports/ top frame). I have done a good bit of antique restoration, mostly 19th century stuff--Empire period especially. This COD has chestnut as a secondary wood and is actually quite lightweight for its size. Restoration here included replacement of some missing veneer on the drawer fronts, elongating screw holes in drawer supports, gluing splits in sides and
  22. Lots of good advice, I agree with the idea of core tools first--Table saw, jointer, planer, shaper, bandsaw, miter saw. Sounds like a lot of cabinets--breaking down sheets of ply definitely wants a TS with a 54 inch table and fence. Or a panel saw. A plate joiner and a kreg pocket screw set up will be your best friends... One comment about wood/metal working in same space. It's a major fire risk. All that sawdust/wood and welding/sparks are not a good idea unless you put up a wall to separate the spaces. I have a metal lathe, a MIG, a stick welder and ox/act torch set. I move outs
  23. Type of motor makes a big difference. Smaller, universal motors (typically on direct drive saws) make much more noise than induction motors used on belt drive saws. My unisaw it very quiet.
  24. Here are some recent projects. I work almost exclusively in walnut and cherry. I love cherry for the aroma when working it. I do some stuff in mahogany, too. A couple of these pieces were for family members, some are in my home.