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Posts posted by Sawdustdad

  1. Moving green lumber directly indoors, especially in the winter is not the best move. Wood needs to dry slowly or it will check/crack/split if there is too great a moisture differential between the interior and exterior of the board. 

    Best to sticker green lumber outdoors, covered, with good air circulation until it reaches equilibrium (varies by locale). At least a year per inch of thickness. 

    Then move indoors to acclimate. I normally move it into the shop an let it sit another year or more. Need to plan ahead! 

  2. Redwood is a prefect wood for door construction, and quite stable. I'd let it acclimate in your shop for a week or two before milling. Rough mill to approximate dimension, let sit another week, then final mill. Same process for any lumber being used for door construction.  



  3. On 9/21/2017 at 2:54 PM, minorhero said:

    I have the exact same unit inhereited from my father who bought it new in the 70's. Its identical to the same thing you can buy today except the table has changed slightly. Great unit. Been running strong for longer then I have been alive. I use it for the same type of sharpening, planes, chisels, etc. Turns a 3 hour sharpening job into about 2 minutes... and half of that is finding the right angle.

    I bought mine in about 1985.  I do also have a Wolf rig for my slow speed 8 inch grinder for sharpening lathe tools, and that works very well, especially for bowl gouges. 

  4. There are things you can do with a router table that are not really practical on a shaper--like stop dadoes.  Easy on a router table. I like the router table for such tasks as I have plywood specific router bits that cut perfect rabbets/dadoes.  So I use  my router table (lift mounted in TS extension) for dados, rabbets, and pattern routing. 

    I use my Delta 3hp shaper for cabinet doors (raising panels, cope and stick joints) tongue and groove, glue joints, lock miters, etc.  

    The Woodmaster molding machine comes out for crown, picture frames, etc.

    Obviously, if possible you should have both a router table and a shaper, but given a choice, I'd get the router table.  The shaper requires a higher level of safety awareness due to the power of the tool, and larger cutters. 


  5. I agree ripping out the pith would help significantly, but I'll add a possible alternative that you could try. You could fasten several cleats to the underside and pull it flat with a series of screws in slotted holes. If that works, then you might avoid the ripping and re-gluing. If it didn't work, then you could still rip it and re glue it. The advantage of the cleats is that they may hold it flat indefinitely.  Just don't screw through the top surface....


  6. That board would have cracked eventually any way. Better now before you invested more time in it.   Looks like it might be the pith? That is, the center of the tree?  You will routinely see the pith split, so it's best to avoid using it in a project. Rip the board down the split, remove the damaged wood and glue it back together. 

    Wood splits for different reasons. Sometimes it is differential shrinkage when drying. Sometimes the logs sit too long before being milled and checks occur in the round log and then show up in the boards later. Sometimes the logs crack when they are felled due to stresses. Sometimes the tree cracks due to growing conditions/wind stress, etc.  


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  7. On 7/30/2017 at 12:53 PM, Pondhockey said:

    In response to the direct question, I believe that even in freezing temperatures, if the relative humidity is low there will be "sublimation" and your wood will do some amount of drying.  Not sure about the humidity levels in Nova Scotia in the winter (or anytime!)

    This is exactly it. Sublimation will provide some drying, albeit at a substantially lower rate.  Think about those shrinking ice cubes left in a freezer for a long time.  

  8. These are directly on joists? What is underneath? conditioned space? Any vapor barrier? Lots of stuff to consider.  Is this finished flooring or subflooring? (1 x 6s at a 45 deg. angle was common for years as a subfloor).  

    Joist spacing? flooring perpendicular to joists? Wood species?  and dimensions? 

    There is a reason square edged boards are not used for finished flooring. Actually, several reasons. Tell us more about what you are doing. 

  9. 9 minutes ago, jjongsma said:

    I'm curious about this. You suggest milling up the 8/4 board S4S before resawing. But in my experience, wood nearly always moves (at least a little bit) after re-sawing, which might result in some twist or cup in the boards. So wouldn't it make more sense to wait to do final milling until the board is done moving (i.e. after resaw)? It seems that if you mill it before resawing and then need to mill it again after resawing, you'd potentially end up losing more thickness than if you just waited to do all milling after resawing. My usual approach is get a face and edge roughly square with hand planes before resawing. But I'm curious what others do.

    I don't know how you can accurately resaw a board that doesn't have at least two adjacent sides flat and true. I generally don't see a lot of movement after resawing but I work with air dried lumber that's been drying for 5 to 10 years or more. I suppose there is a chance that movement after resawing will make a rough board MORE true (requiring less planing) but that would be pure luck.  I don't know. but I always true up the lumber then resaw it. Generally only have to plane the one cut face.  I'd be interested in what others do in this situation...



  10. It requires great accuracy to turn an 8/4 board into a pair of finished 3/4 inch boards. If you are getting a pair of 11/16 boards when finished, you are doing pretty well.  The main issue is an inaccurate resawing process where there is enough variation in thickness of the pair of boards that you can't get both boards planed smooth at the 3/4 dimension. 

    Some tips. 

    1. mill the 8/4 board straight, S4S

    2. Strive for perfect resaw accuracy, even if you have to go to the table saw for part of the effort or by ripping from both edges. 

    3. accept that the final product might not quite make 3/4. allow for this in your design. Usually, bookmatched panels go in doors, so you really don't need 3/4 inch there. 5/8 or even 1/2 is usually fine. 

    If I needed 3/4 inch bookmatched panels, I'd start with thicker lumber, 10/4 or 12/4 and be left with a third board at less than 3/4 for some other project. Or I'd veneer the panel.  I can't think of a time when I needed 3/4 inch book matched lumber, but I guess a table top might be one case. I've veneered such situations.  



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  11. Everyone has their favorite wood, either because it is available, meets budgets, or because it just works wonderfully. I have my favorites for all these reasons, but if cost was no object, here's my short list:  

    1. All time favorite is Black Cherry.  Machines to sharp edges, smells soooo good. Ages beautifully to a deep orange then ruby red. Refuse to use any sap wood, though, as it never darkens and stands out like a sore thumb over time. 

    2, Since cost is no object, next up is mahogany. I love a great ribbon figure, with the chatoyance that comes out with a clear finish. It works cleanly with no fuzz, has a pleasant aroma. Generally very stable. 

    3. Black Walnut. The chocolate brown color is so rich looking and again, it machines great. Dust/odor can be irritating to some, but doesn't bother me much.  


    A couple other woods that are great to work, but are not very common--don't have any of this stuff any more, but have come across stashes of it from time to time and usually snap it up when I find it. 

    1. Wormy Chestnut. Here in Virginia, they still find standing dead trees up in the mountains (for you guys out west, we use the term "mountains" loosely. Your translation would be "foot hills".) So occasionally someone will pull such a tree out and have it milled. I've been through 200bf of wormy chestnut from a purchase about 30 years ago, saving it for unique projects. A lot of picture frames and a few hall mirrors. Another source is reclaimed barn beams that have been resawn. Need to worry about nails with this stuff!  Chestnut was a very common lumber up until the blight. It machines easily, leaves a clean edge, and is relatively lightweight. 

    2. Butternut. The "blonde" walnut. This is an interesting wood. It is lighter than walnut, and fuzzes a little on machining, so sharp tools are needed. Stains beautifully and can mimic either mahogany or walnut, depending on the stain applied.  It's very stable.  Great for drawer sides or an entire project. Here's a chest in Butternut. 


  12. I love that router table! Super nice job. The gold hardware is a very nice touch.  

    Agree with Eric on some air flow needed to the router compartment. Perhaps a louvered vent on the door? I cut a 4 inch dia. hole in the router box under my TS extension.  I only use the router for dados, patterning and a few quick tasks. Shaper does all the big stuff. 

  13. I moved my shop last year and can attest to it being a major undertaking. I packed and moved several pickup truck loads of smaller tools, then hired a moving company to move some furniture out of the house so it could be put on the market to be sold. I told the moving company they needed a truck with a Tommy Lift (lift tail gate),  

    They finally understood when they went to move my 20 inch planer. They had nothing suitable to lift it or move it, and the three guys were no match for it. We rolled it to the doorway and rigged a plywood ramp to the lift gate. Barely made it. The TS, Shaper, jointer, resaw, etc., were childs play by comparison. 

    At this point, I still have a few things left at the old shop pending sale of the house there. Just in case I need to fix something at that house.   

    Old shop and new shop...




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  14. 1 hour ago, bgreenb said:

    Ha...didn't mean to be a creeper...the photos you posted above looked familiar to me, and I realized I saw them before in my thread asking about table saws over on THT back when I was just starting to get into woodworking.  It was fresh on my mind because I posted the thread here recently to have a good laugh at how naive I was back then.  Here's the thread if you're interested in reminiscing too.

    Anyway when the pictures looked familiar I did some cross referencing to find your handle :)

    I'm Row 21 over on THT.  Don't post there much anymore as woodworking has taken over my hobby time.  I still have the boat and get out on the water - the kids love it - but I'm a lot more active on this forum.  

    Anyway, welcome - you and I have the same taste, it seems.  Glad to have another member building traditional designs.  Welcome.

    I'm Sawdustdad everywhere except THT.   Still quite active over there.  Glad to have found this site.  I've got three bathrooms and a wet bar to remodel over the coming winter, so it will keep me out of the furniture business for a few months,  but a Newport style block front desk is on my list of future efforts. 

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  15. Eric, any progress on the JK project with that sycamore?

    The only use I've found for sycamore is drawer sides.  QS is quite stable when dry and a clear finish shows the chatoyance nicely.  You'll see it from time to time in 1940s/1950s manufactured furniture as well--again, as a secondary wood.  It's harder than poplar at about the same cost here in Virginia. Sycamore grows big with high first limbs in the damp forest areas near rivers and marshes. Have a few big ones on the property here.  You don't see poplar as drawer sides because it's a little soft (drawer sides wear against the runners) so maple has been the preferred wood. sycamore is a less expensive replacement for maple. 

  16. 17 hours ago, Eric. said:

    Great shop man.  Welcome aboard.  What kind of stuff do you build?  Got any project pics to share?  Is that your COD in the pics or was that a refinish?

    Sorry, Eric, missed this question on reply. That is a restoration. It is an c.1830 American walnut chest of drawers. It has 20 inch wide single board sides and top, all three of which had split due to cross grain construction (drawer supports/ top frame).  I have done a good bit of antique restoration, mostly 19th century stuff--Empire period especially. This COD has chestnut as a secondary wood and is actually quite lightweight for its size. Restoration here included replacement of some missing veneer on the drawer fronts, elongating screw holes in drawer supports, gluing splits in sides and top, and replacing missing drawer stops and kickers. Knobs are original to the piece, so they were removed, cleaned and reinstalled. Finish was cleaned and a couple coats of tung oil applied. No patina removed.  

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  17. Lots of good advice, I agree with the idea of core tools first--Table saw, jointer, planer, shaper, bandsaw, miter saw. 

    Sounds like a lot of cabinets--breaking down sheets of ply definitely wants a TS with a 54 inch table and fence. Or a panel saw. A plate joiner and a kreg pocket screw set up will be your best friends...

    One comment about wood/metal working in same space. It's a major fire risk. All that sawdust/wood and welding/sparks are not a good idea unless you put up a wall to separate the spaces.  I have a metal lathe, a MIG, a  stick welder and ox/act torch set. I move outside to do any welding.  Sanding/grinding makes sparks and that makes me very nervous. I disconnect my dust collection from the belt/disc sander when sanding metal. I had plans to set up a separate metal working shop in the garage, but having to move back and forth between two buildings 50 feet apart to complete a project because tools are in different places just seems inconvenient. A separation wall is the best solution.