Trevor Kernes

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About Trevor Kernes

  • Birthday 02/14/1979

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Orting, Washington
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture

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  1. I can almost guarantee that this was a brand new blade. The packaging was sealed and the blade had the plastic/wax coating on the teeth and the plastic wrap around the blade. If it wasn't new, someone sure put a heck of a lot of effort into repackaging it to make it appear to be in the original packaging. If it is used, I would understand this more. If it is new, I really want Forrest to take a look at it so they can determine what happened. I am about 99% sure this is a Forrest blade. They would have to do some serious work to make a reproduction that is this nice (yes, nice; I know it threw metal at me). It cut like a laser and made virtually no sound when it cut. I was very pleased with it, until it tried to chunk carbide in my gut. It has the lasered serial number and all of the paperwork is from a high quality printing procedure; not a xerox copy. I will know for sure when I send it to Forrest.
  2. I emailed them a link to this thread and my phone number. I expect I will hear something early this week. I will let everyone know what they do. It was sitting with my safety glasses . . . This must have been one out of a million that had an issue. I think that I would still buy another one. It is definitely the brazing.
  3. My wife purchased me a WWII for Father's Day. It was an ebay purchase, but the blade was still in the original packaging. Like a good spouse, she gave it to me early. I was pretty excited and put it on last night. I made about 4 cuts, all rips, last night. This morning, I went out and made my first crosscut and the pictures showed what happened. I have been woodworking for a little over two years and have never had anyting like this happen. I was getting near the end of a crosscut of 3/4" red oak on about a 4 inch board when I felt something hit me just below my sternum. It felt like I was hit with a paintball. I saw the piece of metal, a tooth from the blade. I checked the saw to see if something came loose inside, resulting in the failure. Nothing. I checked the board for nails. Nothing. I had the board secure, it was a cut free of the fence and I had a firm grip on the piece of oak I was cutting. The splintered end of the oak is a result of me jumping back after getting hit with the metal; I don't believe it is from kickback, but could be. I have had boards kickback on me before; I just don't think it happened prior to getting hit. Two teeth came off right next to each other. I think that it was a faulty weld on those teeth. I can't find the other tooth, I think it bounced of me like a springboard. Does anyone have a different opinion as to what may have happened? What would you do in regards to contacting the company? I am not looking to get anything out of this, but I want Forrest to know that they may have some bad blades circulating (or maybe I am the one unlucky guy). Oh, and a big safety point from this . . . this guy wasn't wearing safety glasses. I usually wear them. I was only making one cut and that was all I was going to need with the table saw. DUMB. I will never make a cut again without them.
  4. And one more that is a little clearer, but without the straightedge.
  5. Thanks VIc. I went out and snapped a few pictures, but these are the only two that really show what I am talking about. I can post more, if these aren't enough.
  6. I bought a used PM2000 last week. After I got everything set up, I put my blade in and then disaster hit. The riving knife and blade do not line up. I tried calling the guy I bought it from . . . you guessed it, no answer. I don't think that it is hopeless. The saw is in great shape and everything functions correctly and is perfectly squared up. With my Forrest Woodworker II, it cuts like a warm knife through butter. I have looked at the blown up image from the manual. It appears that the arbor is either too long (I have no idea why it would be this way), or the arbor isn't seated all the way in the pulley housing section. I tried putting a clamp (not a lot of tension), on it and it would not shift. I could try to force it a little more, but I am worried I may bust something in the housing. My only other idea is that the plate (arbor side) isn't thick enough causing the riving knife to be shifted to the left. If I insert two washers behind the plate, the riving knife lines up perfectly. I haven't run it like this for fear that there isn't enough support for the knife and it would shift and really cause some fireworks. If someone has a few minutes, and you own a PM2000, can you snap some pics of the arbor/riving knife assembly for me? Maybe something isn't assembled correctly. If all else fails, I am going to have a new plate machined to the correct thickness and call it good. Thanks in advance for any advice you all have. Trevor
  7. Wow. Thanks for the responses! I am definitely going to take some of these suggestions and run with it. @ Beechwood Chip - The lcd lift is a definite! I never knew that was an option, but really makes my design much more simple. @ adamking - I've never made furniture that wasn't square all the way around. Any advice that you want to send my way, I will take! Again, it will be the end of next summer before I can start (I have an extended trip coming my way). @ The Wood Servant - I haven't thought about material, but the maple/walnut suggestion gave me a mental picture that I can't get rid of. I am really intrigued. I think I will start finishing some scraps to get a good idea of what I want. @ Ben S - As soon as I read your posts, I found I would only have 3/4" above the top of my computer to reach behind and turn it on! With the lcd lift and the button/ports on the computer, I will be redesigning the lift pedestal. If anybody has a link to a scissor lift that isn't 4' in movement, that would be a big help. Everything I find is 4' to 10'. All the ones I saw that moved 24ish inches were actuator types. I will certainly keep everyone updated with all the iterations of the design process, mock ups, etc. Keep in mind, my trip will put everything on hold for a number of months. Bear with me . . . Thanks again for all the advice! Trevor
  8. So, I have been wanting to build a desk for some time. I am moving into a new home and will have a large office that will accomodate what I have always wanted. Last week I started looking through books and found a picture of a mechanical desk from the 18th century. I asked myself, "Why can't I build something like that, but with a modern application?" So I sat down at the computer, started SketchUp and started drawing away. This is my first hack at this, but I expect to have a few iterations if this goes any further. I want to build it modularly, so it can be moved easily. I think there would be three main components (pedestals), the top, plus other smaller pieces. The top I want to have leather inlaid. I have never done it. I think that I could do it, but have no idea what I am getting into. If you look at the pictures, imagine that the left and right pedestals are built square with the rounded portion as a false backing, more for decoration. I would attach these to the middle pedestal with some kind of hardware. The middle pedestal/computer housing would be the big challenge. I would need two motors to turn gears to move the computer housing up and down. I am afraid that this would have to be absolutely perfect or the piece would bind during movement. I am not sure how to ensure that the motors start, move, and stop simultaneously. I know very little about electric motors. I imagine that there could be pressure switches once it reaches the top that would cause the motors to stop. I have it sized perfectly to house my Sony all-in-one computer. Once I got a new computer, I am sure I would have to modify it. But I think everyone has lcd displays and modifiying for a traditional computer/lcd wouldn't be that difficult. The bottom of the middle pedestal would have all of the wires and power. I would ensure the side that would be by your feet would be easily removable to access the wires, etc. Also, when the false front for the keyboard tray is dropped down, it would flip the switch to start the motors and move the computer housing up. When it was closed, the opposite would occur. Again, I am not electrically inclined, so I would have to do a lot of research to figure this one out. I haven't thought about what I would build it out of. If I continue on this, I may ask for ideas. I think I may be a little overzealous with this one. Let me know what you think, or what I am missing. If this goes further, I won't be able to start until the end of next summer. So, I have lots of time to play with the idea. Again, it is my first hack, so keep that in mind. With that said, hack away at what it is. Thanks! Trevor
  9. I just wanted to take the time to say hello to everyone. I am fairly new to woodworking, started about a year ago. My father walked me through building a low entertainment center for my living room. I then built a coffee table, end tables, and speaker stands on my own. That is it. I feel like I have so much to learn. About a week ago, I thought I would check youtube and watch someone do an inlay and stumbled on Marc's flower he put in the table. I was instantly hooked. After that, I started at his first video and have watched every video up to the ghost bowl, over the past week. I now wish I could rebuild my furniture . . . I could have done so much better! Here is a picture of the entertainment center. I am moving from Oklahoma to Washington State, Tacoma area. Is anyone from that area? If so, let me know. I have a ton of questions. Thanks to everyone and especially Marc for putting together this entire community!! Expect me in the guild after I am settled in Washington! Trevor