Kurt Triebe

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About Kurt Triebe

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Mostly furniture. Building a lot of stuff for my house, typically from walnut.

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  1. I think scam was a bad word choice. It just may not be the most cost-effective way to build Marc's version of the Roubo using Benchcrafted hardware- I think they've revised their offerings in the 6-7 years since Marc initially released the Guild project, and they may be pushing more of their own thing now, versus simply catering to people purchasing hardware to go along with the WW Guild project.
  2. I bought hardware to make a Moxon vise similar to what Jonathan Katz-Moses' example was in the video, but I haven't built it yet. I'm also committing to building a whole new workbench, and am uncertain that I'll have a huge need for a Moxon, if I build the actual workbench right. But, perhaps it'll still be useful, as it'll raise my platform probably by 6" or so, which could be handy for cutting joinery. And, since I've already purchased the hardware, and the wood costs aren't too high as it's not a particularly big thing- I might as well just do it. I'm debating dimensions on the workbench, too. My current workbench (which is really more of an assembly/outfeed table, and less of a workholding tool, and will be relegated to assembly/outfeed table use once I build the new bench) is something like 33" wide, and it's too big for the space in my shop where it currently sits. I do think I'm going to end up doing something around 26" wide, though. I'm 99% certain that I'm going to be building a Roubo/Nicholson hybrid per the Third Coast Craftsman plans... I'm just waiting for Andy Klein to release his new vises before I dive into the build, I want to make sure that whatever I build is done with those in mind. I'm not wild about the leg vise, so I'm opting against the traditional Roubo with the leg vise.
  3. I have a Woodpeckers table with a phenolic top. It’s dead flat and plenty strong. No complaints with it whatsoever. Personally, I would not spend significantly more money for a cast iron top.
  4. Hmmmm... joinery methods? Probably dowels and M&T. Woods... walnut for sure, and probably white oak as the second.
  5. Uhhhhh... WOW. That’s awesome, I’d love to see a video on how this is turned!
  6. I had some specific wood requests (not quite as specific as you, but also not just “I need 60bf”) and C.R. Muterspaw was great. Great prices, insanely fast shipping, and the wood was great- just what I asked for. They’re in Ohio, and I got my wood in Illinois like 2 days after ordering.
  7. This is the technique I used to minimize snipe. It's still there, but it's VERY slight... rarely more than a few thousandths. Almost irrelevant except when doing laminations.
  8. Gotcha, yeah- that all makes perfect sense- thanks!
  9. Gorgeous. Love everything about it. Thinking about using something like those tusk tenons on a trestle table I'm building... curious if they pull the stretcher in tight to the inside of the legs at all, or if they just keep the stretcher from pulling out? I've watched that Ishitani video at least 3 times now, but I've not given enough thought to how the forces involved in that thing apply.
  10. I've only done this once, so I won't give you any "here's what you should do!" advice... I'll give you "here are the mistakes I made- don't repeat them!" advice. I got about 200bf of 4/4 walnut from a local sawyer, rough cut. I brought it home about 2 weeks after it had been milled. I brought it into my basement, stacked & stickered it. I live in the Chicagoland area, this was early fall- basically this same time a year ago, I think I bought the stuff on October 3rd or 4th. I didn't seal the ends- I think I should have. It dried FAST. The rule of thumb that I've always heard is 1 year per inch of thickness; I checked a few boards in January or February and they were already at 10%-ish moisture content- essentially dry. It was nice that it was already ready to use, but I think the first and last few inches of each board (the exposed end grain on each side) was basically useless- it was brittle and basically fell apart. So, I probably lost 4-6" from each 8-10' long board. I *suspect* that, had I sealed the ends with something like Anchor Seal, it would have dried more slowly and preserved the entire board (less trimming the end cleanly, of course) for use. Not a HUGE deal, but on a stack of 200bf, that's probably 10-12bf total basically just thrown away. Second... we usually have a dehumidifier running in the basement, and this dehumidifier happened to be about 2' away from one end of my stack of wood. Well... I'd say that the 6-8 boards from the top of the pile, closest to the dehumidifier, experienced SIGNIFICANTLY more warping/cupping/twisting than anything else in the pile. And, it was just on the end of the board closest to the dehumidifier... not the whole board... it seemed pretty clear to me that putting the pile so close to the dehumidifier had a dramatic effect on the manner in which those few boards dried. Everything else in the pile stayed very flat, but those boards... essentially, the 3-4' from that end closest to the DH, I just had to cut those off and use them on their own, and in smaller sections- there was no way I would be able to use any of those boards whole. This was frustrating. I was able to work around it and still make good use out of all of the lumber, but I wish I hadn't screwed those boards up. Moral of the story; seal the ends, and if you're running a dehumidifier, make sure it's nowhere near your pile of lumber!
  11. I'm a big DowelMax fan. As far as doweling jigs go it's expensive, but it's cheap in comparison to a Domino. And- most importantly, it's *not* a dowel centering jig. When I'm doing a tabletop glue up, I don't want the centers of the boards to line up... I want the tops of the boards to line up. If the boards are EXACTLY the same thickness, aligning their centers works... but if they're not- it doesn't matter, you just hide the slight differences on the bottom, and all of the boards are still perfectly flush with each other on the top. It eliminates the need for cauls, and takes a lot of the stress out of the glue up process. Plus- it's so precise that, once you remove the squeeze out- your top should be perfectly flat, you don't have to sand or plane away any small differences from board to board. I pretty much jump right to finish sanding- no extra flattening required. The DowelMax has a ton of other uses besides aligning boards for a panel glue-up... you can do pretty much any Domino-style joint with a DowelMax... but this is a really handy one. Attached a pic of a panel glue-up from my most recent project; this pic was taken after taking it out of the clamps and just scraping off the glue squeeze-out. That's a 38" straight edge run diagonally across most of the panel... there's no daylight anywhere under that thing.
  12. I'm hoping both of mine at least appreciate making stuff, if not join in themselves. They seem to like watching some of the YouTube makers with me- Laura Kampf in particular has been a big hit- so, perhaps it'll catch on once they're old enough to do simple stuff down there with me! Their elementary school has a really nice library/media center, that includes a mini-maker space... I think it'd be pretty funny if they showed up on their first makerspace day in 2nd or 3rd grade or something and were like, "uhhh, where are the REAL tools? these are wimpy, you should see what I already get to build at home!"
  13. They've always feigned interest in helping, but their attention span is all of 30 seconds- so I can't usually get much more out of them than helping pound a dowel in or something like that. I built them each their own little mallet, purpleheart & canary wood, so that they can use their own special tool whenever they're helping with something like that. I don't run the power tools around them, though, and they know that those are all off-limits. Our basement is about 2/3 finished, 1/3 unfinished- the tools are in the unfinished area, and I usually just keep the door to that area closed. Eventually, I'll introduce them to the tools- but probably not before I get a SawStop. So, the second pic- I can see how that's misleading, hah! We use the finished area of the basement as a guest sleeping spot... and a kid play area... and a quasi lumber storage area... and just "crap" overflow. Long story, but we inherited a lot of stuff when we bought this house, and it is taking us quite some time to renovate, get rid of old stuff, etc- the basement is just where a lot of that extra crap ends up temporarily while we figure out a better plan. So, no- no sleeping going on in the pack 'n play or the bed behind it... they were playing somewhere else near me. I used the new Maker Brand Simple Finish Oil & Wax stuff... they private labeled something, but it's essentially a mix of BLO, safflower oil, tung oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, carnauba wax, and microcrystalline waxes. It's all fairly natural and low VOC. Not zero, but low... I'm not worried about them being around it for 10-20 minutes. And, they sleep far away from all of the tools and finishes, 2 floors up from here... I can work down there in peace after they go to sleep every night, heh.
  14. Thanks! Yeah, I figured this was an easy way for them to help- this finish is easy, just wipe on, let sit, wipe off... pretty impossible to screw up.
  15. Finish applied to the base. Top after my helpers have gone to sleep.