Kurt Triebe

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About Kurt Triebe

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Mostly furniture. Building a lot of stuff for my house, typically from walnut.

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  1. Kurt Triebe

    Walnut end table / media console build

    Got all of the panels glued up, and used the track saw to cut the top, middle, and bottom layers to the exact same size & shape. Double sided tape stuck 'em together, then the track saw had juuuuuuuuust enough depth of cut in order to do all 3 layers at once. Brought them up to the room where it'll live and made sure that I had the angle right- like anything in a house, of course it's not 45 degrees to the floor boards or the adjacent wall... it's 47.6 degrees. That's why we build custom furniture though, I guess! Now I have to figure out joinery; the right side and the shelf are pretty easy, but the left side will be interesting. Since the left panel is at a 45-ish degree angle to the top, middle and bottom- I have to account for SOME wood movement... half as much as a perpendicular intersection, but I still have to do it. I may do a sliding dovetail, but I am worried about the strength of the outer piece- I'll have to do some careful examination of the size of the router bit I have, with the thickness of each panel, to see what that'll actually look like once it is cut. I guess this doesn't need to be super strong; it's a media console tucked in the corner of a room, it's not a chair or anything. The most stress it'll undergo will just be if I slide it in and out to mess with cabling in the back.
  2. Kurt Triebe

    Arts and Crafts Sideboard

    I recently (maybe 8 weeks ago) paid essentially equivalent prices for 6/4 walnut as I did 8/4 QSWO at a local hardwood store... it was $8.50-9 for each. I don't have any problem finding regular (non-QS) white oak at $4-4.50 ish per BF, but QSWO is double that price at all of my suppliers.
  3. Kurt Triebe

    Rip-it automated tablesaw fence

    It's cool, but- at least to me- mostly just in that- "ooh, neat, new shiny!!!" sort of way. I don't really see the big advantage of it over a $100 Wixey digital gauge, or a $400 Incra TS-LS fence- both of which are already available (no worries about a failed or shady Kickstarter project team running off with your money...) and offer a high level of precision and repeatability. Also, based on the design shown- the fence has a flat top and flat sides, which means you lose the ability to use any sort of attachments with it like many other fences offer that have T tracks on the top or sides. If this was actually in production, I would MAYBE have considered it at the $500 "early bird" price... $800 is really stretching it... and the $1200 supposed retail price is borderline insane.
  4. While I'm mentally working through some of the final steps on my mission style nightstand build, I figured I'd get started on another project. I've got a bit of project ADD... and my wife is eager to start our family room remodel, and this is part of that, so, here we go. We've currently got a big media console underneath our wall-mounted TV and soundbar. It's a simple thing I made a few years back out of walnut plywood and some 80/20 aluminum extrusions. It's essentially a clone of something that Salamander makes. Anyway, we are going to do away with it, and have nothing below the TV/soundbar- just the wall. So, we have to shift our HTPC and some other related hardware off to the side. We've currently got a bit of dead space underneath the window to the right, in between the couch and the wall. We used to have this little wooden chest over there that we used to store crap for changing diapers. We're out of the diaper stage now, though, so I can get rid of that chest and build sort of an end table and media console to fill that space. The basic concept, then, is going to be something that parallels the walls on the left and the back, and parallels the side of the couch on the right. The wall angle is an easy 45 degrees (err, 135 degrees) fortunately. It'll be short enough to tuck under the arm of the couch- 19" tall- and will be about 38-39" wide across the front... tapering to something like 13-15" wide at the back, which will be open so that I can easily get cables in and out. I'll have a shelf about 6.5-7" up, which will be enough to house the HTPC, and will leave enough room above the shelf to hold our little weather station display. There will be a centered divider on the lower level- something to support that middle layer, which I think will only be about 1/2" thick- just due to the stock I had available for this, not a deliberate design decision. My wife wants the computer hardware fully hidden- I'm not sure yet how I'll accomplish that. I could do doors, but they feel like an awkward size to me- 7" or so tall and nearly 18-19" wide... it feels like those would put a ton of leverage on the hinges and they'd sag over time? So I'm leaning toward perhaps doing a sliding panel instead; I could rout a little dado the full width of the front, and have a panel that's wide enough to cover either side. Normally, it'd just cover up the right side- where the HTPC will be- leaving the lower left side open. Anyway- I figured I'd get started on creating some of the panels while I mentally work through all of the design challenges. I had a decent amount of walnut leftover from a few previous projects, and this build is going to use up nearly all of it. I cut a bunch of pieces to rough length, jointed & planed them, and then did one of the glue-ups last night. Pulled the clamps off this morning and spent a few minutes sanding away the squeeze out and ensuring that everything went well. The clamping situation was a little wonky, to say the least, but the joints were so straight and perfect that I didn't think I needed that much pressure to pull everything tight. I did my usual Dowelmax process- this allows me to make damn near perfectly flat panels even without being able to clamp things flat/straight. It takes a few extra minutes to drill the holes for the dowels, but the time saved on sanding afterward, plus the comfort in knowing I'm not going to have to worry about things sliding around or getting out of alignment during the glue-up, is well worth it IMO. One of the challenges I know I'm going to face is how to do the connection with the angled left side- given that the left side panel will be expanding/contracting at a different rate than the top/middle/bottom layers, I need to allow for some wood movement- I could do a sliding dovetail, but I think I want the left panel flush with the top and bottom- I don't think I'll have enough meat on the outside of the dovetail to be structurally sound- so I may do some sort of captured rabbet- a shouldered dado is maybe the right term? Not exactly sure. I could insert some thin metal rods/pins from the left to provide a bit of vertical strength, as long as I slot the hole on the bottom panel to allow the pin to move horizontally. The base will be some short feet- 1.75"- a little angled on the sides, with one stretcher running between the front left and front right feet, and one running between the back left and back right feet. I won't connect the back feet to the front feet, because wood movement. Pardon the messy room in the pictures; this will all look a lot different afterward... fireplace will be refinished, we're doing a full walnut accent wall behind the TV/soundbar, window treatments will change, walls will be painted differently, baseboard trim will be white instead of the ugly stained red oak, etc. I'm including them just to give an idea of the space where this little console will go.
  5. Kurt Triebe

    Stickley Console Table

    Awesome piece. I'm working on a Mission nightstand right now and the Jewitt finishing schedules seem to be incredible... I'm not yet sure which color I'll be going for, but it'll be one of his recipes. When did you do the glue-up in relation to the finishing? Did you pre-finish any of the pieces? I'm always nervous with stains/dyes, about my inability to get consistent color application when I'm working on something that's already glued up- I'm trying to figure out how much of my nightstand I can finish before doing the glue-up. If I could do the dye & stain processes, then glue-up, then all I have to do afterward is apply ARS... that might make life MUCH easier.
  6. Kurt Triebe

    Mission Nightstand

    Got the lower shelf joints done. Notched the legs, routed some dadoes. Fits just as snug as I’d hoped, is perfectly secure, and has room for the shelf to expand/contract across the grain within the slots I cut. Now I guess it’s time to start thinking about the drawer and door. Yikes! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Kurt Triebe

    RZ Mask

    I read it as- he's flipping a house, so he's keeping a mask at that house, and wears it when he's doing work over there.
  8. Kurt Triebe

    RZ Mask

    Tried one; couldn’t get it adjusted to be comfortable. Wanted to like it, but it wasn’t happening- it was really hard on the top of my nose and no amount of adjusting could get it to work. Went back to my Elipse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Kurt Triebe

    Mission Nightstand

    Hah, thanks. Fortunately- and, unusually- my older daughter hasn't yet made any noise about wanting something for her room. She doesn't NEED anything- oldest kid, first grandkid for all grandparents, got seriously spoiled by all involved parties and thus has a full room of nice furniture. Younger kid drew the short stick, hand me downs and whatnot... LOL. But, the next demanding customer is my wife... I justified this hobby primarily because we needed a new kitchen table & chairs... that was 16-17 months ago... and we have no new kitchen table and chairs yet. I'm having a hard time settling on a design... my tastes have changed a little over the past year and a half... I had a table plan, but it has changed a little bit, and I'm waffling back and forth between a few things. Hopefully I can settle on something by the time I'm wrapping up the nightstand, so I can dive right into that. I don't think it'll be as involved as this project has been; for a small piece, there have really been a lot of little things to consider. It has been a blast, though, and dialing in the precision needed to nail some of the mortise & tenons, the frame & panel sides and back, edge details etc has really been satisfying.
  10. Kurt Triebe

    Mission Nightstand

    Time for an update- got a lot done on the carcass. Routed dadoes where the panels will sit, cut panels to right width and height, did a subtle edge treatment on the junction between the panels. Cut the corbels. Only part of the main structure left to do is the lower shelf, then it’s basically time to figure out the drawer & door. Really loving how this is coming together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Kurt Triebe

    dowel max

    Totally. That’s why I got it. I’m sure the Domino is incredible, but I can’t justify it as a hobbyist. Functionally speaking, not much separates the Domino from the Dowelmax. Domino would be faster, and would make it a smidge easier to do loose/wide settings for cheater breadboard ends. It allows more angles, whereas Dowelmax mostly just gives you 90 and 45, though there are ways to do other angles sometimes, depending on the joint and your creativity. It’s every bit as accurate, though, and the final joint would be similarly strong between the two systems. And, yeah, the cost savings are pretty significant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Kurt Triebe

    dowel max

    Big Dowelmax fan here. Use it constantly. It would do great on the 45 degree miters for the waterfall edge. Get the 45 angle attachment, obviously. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Kurt Triebe

    Glue up squeeze out

    Scrapers work really well on glue squeeze out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Kurt Triebe

    Drawers

    Perfect, thanks Steve. After I posted, I thought about it some more and realized that this was exactly what I was going to have to do. No need for more drawings- I've got it! I don't have any QWSO plywood to use, so I'll have to make my slots a smidge deeper than the shelf will be, to allow for a tenth of an inch or so of wood movement, but it'll work out. Can't wait to see how yours turns out!
  15. Kurt Triebe

    Drawers

    I don't have much advice to offer as I'm probably 2 weeks behind you on a very similar project- but, my drawer plan was to have a 1/4" runner, and just leave a few hundredths bigger than that in the side of the drawer? But- I have a question for you, if you don't mind! How'd you attach the lower shelf? I'm struggling to figure out the best way to have a tight fit on all sides of the shelf, while still allowing for wood movement. Here's my ongoing build thread: