Kurt Triebe

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About Kurt Triebe

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Mostly furniture. Building a lot of stuff for my house, typically from walnut.
  1. Mission Nightstand

    Thanks! I'm probably going to deviate from the Dryad piece a smidge- I'm letting my wife pick the shape of the door panel cutouts, rather than whatever that shape currently is- tulip or something? It may end up being kinda cheesy and just something that my daughter loves, versus a very traditional Mission kind of thing, we'll see. I may even have my wife do the scroll saw work... hah... she said she wants to learn how to use the scroll saw, this would be a perfect first project. If she screws it up, I'll just cut her a new panel, no big deal.
  2. Mission Nightstand

    For sure- it'll be stored somewhere where that it can get nice even airflow. Thanks for the finishing tips- lots of good info in there. The rest of the furniture in her room approaches the "unstained" look (sample 6, I guess) so I'm probably going to just keep it pretty simple, rather than go full-bore traditional Mission, but, we'll see. I generally prefer darker finishes/woods- this will probably be the one room in the house that's a complete departure from what I'm building everywhere else. My wife would never let me build the kiddo a new bed, dresser, and bookshelf just because I don't love the current finish on her furniture, hah! Thanks!
  3. Mission Nightstand

    This will be my first build journal, and probably my most "involved" piece of furniture yet. The other projects I did over the past year were pretty simple- sit/stand desk and a live edge coffee table. Neither of those required much brainpower, minimal joinery, etc. Anyway- my youngest daughter needs a nightstand. Her room is kind of a mish-mash of hand-me-down furniture (second second child syndrome, LOL- her older sister got all nice brand new stuff) and I figured it was time to make her something nice of her own. A lot of the other furniture in her room is oak, so I figured I'd stick to that and do something Mission or Arts & Crafts. I googled a bit and found something that the wife and I both liked a lot, made by Dryad Studios. It'll be the inspiration. I have a crapload of walnut in the basement, but no oak- so this was a good opportunity to check out a wood supplier near me that I'd never been to before. I grabbed two 4/4 boards, 5 & 5.5" wide, and one giant 8/4 board that's 7-8" wide. Quartersawn. Cost a freaking fortune- I think I paid more for this stuff than I've ever paid for walnut. Oh well. From what I vaguely estimated based on the Dryad image, nearly everything in my piece will be one of 3 thicknesses- 1.5" (legs), 3/4" (all other major components), and 3/8" (panels on the back and sides, and on the door). The top will come out of one of the 4/4 boards, the leg stock will come out of the 8/4. The rest of the 8/4 will get resawn for various pieces. I got a quick start today on the top. Took the 5.5" 4/4 board, chopped it into 4 pieces about 24.5" long, face jointed each one to flatten them, planed it all down to 3/4" thick, jointed the edges, did some Dowelmax work to make the glue-up close to perfect, glued it up, then trimmed each edge on my big ol' crosscut sled and got it down to its final dimensions (24" W x 20" D). A few minutes of sanding per side with my ROS and the top is basically done. Just have to break the edges- I'll probably just do a tiny 1/16" roundover- and then it'll get set aside until assembly. Was really happy with how easy all of this was- I probably only spend an hour and a half and I've already got a major part done. Having a real jointer makes this sort of thing sooooooo easy. Hoping to have another good shop session on this project over the weekend. I've got everything mentally mapped out pretty well, so I'm hoping that I can move through this project pretty quickly.
  4. This is a quality saw blade on resin

    I used that kit to clean my main TS blade for the first time this weekend, after about a year of hobbyist use. I wasn't getting any burning quite like that, but I was noticing that my cuts weren't nearly as clean as I remember them being before. Kit was super easy to use, I dropped a bunch of router bits into the bath as well and cleaned those up. Worked great, and it's great that you can just capture the liquid and re-use it, rather than having to buy a new bottle of the stuff every few uses.
  5. My local Woodcraft had some white pencils- "Pica" they're called: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/pica-dry-longlife-automatic-pen They're not cheap- I got the pencil and a pack of like 10-12 extra lead for $25-ish- but they work really well. The outer fluorescent green thing clips into my apron pocket, and then I can easily pull the inner black pencil part out to write. The green part has a built-in sharpener, too. They make very visible lines. I'm working with a ton of walnut, and I couldn't see regular pencil marks, this is 100x better. The extra pack of lead will probably last me 5 years, which is part of the reason I didn't balk at the stupid price. They make "lead" in a bunch of different colors- blue, red, etc- but I only got the white... regular pencils work fine on all of the other wood types I use. My only complaint is that it's hard to get the point sharp/small enough to fit inside the tiny holes on my Incra Precision T-Rule.
  6. Jewelry box build

    Nice wood combo... I'm still thinking through what I'm going to use for my jewelry box builds, too. Will be very curious to see how yours turns out! My project keeps getting pushed back- wife wants me to finish some furniture before I get to smaller projects like this. She claims my girls (5 and 3) won't appreciate it anyway right now, so there's no point to do them until they're a bit older...
  7. Heh, we don't really use the fireplace, but I'm not willing to 100% commit to never using it by sticking electronics in there! The space under the window will work just fine- it's totally useless otherwise. I may build a nice little end table to go over there, where the HTPC could sit on a lower shelf, maybe have a drawer there to hide remotes, etc. Monoprice is great, for sure... definitely my go-to source for cables and other similar supplies.
  8. That's a good idea, yeah- I could have a "channel" at the bottom, behind the baseboards. I would just stop the lowest panel piece an inch, inch and a half short of the flooring- enough for the baseboard to hide what's happening there, but still give me plenty of room to run things. And the baseboard is easy enough to pull away periodically if necessary. No room behind this wall, unfortunately- that's the side wall of our house. I do have room below, actually- that's my basement/woodshop area, and I may end up relocating a few things (router, HD HomeRun, etc) down there instead of where they currently live in the media console. All I'd have to run up from there to the basement would be two ethernet cables to hook the TV and the HTPC into the house's network.
  9. There probably is, yeah. I hadn't given that much thought to hiding all of the holes, but, you're right- that would certainly be a preferable finished product. I could probably do some sort of a tongue & groove rather than shiplap, still do the same sort of edge chamfer that I'd planned on, and then just shoot nails down into the groove to adhere the boards to the wall rather than right through their finished face. I do have one of those angled tongue & groove nailers- the floors got redone here a decade ago, still have the tools. Hmmm. It wouldn't be hard to do except on the top few boards- but that's 16' up in the air and I could just do normal finish nails there and they're far enough away that you'd never notice.
  10. Walnut. Finish undecided; I've been using Osmo Polyx on everything else walnut that I'm building, because it's so quick and easy, and I absolutely love how it looks & feels afterward. I don't know if I'd do the same thing on the walls, but I probably would. If I'm looking at having to finish something like 30 separate boards that are each 8' long, I reaaaaally don't want to use something that requires a bunch of coats. My thought was to finish front & back, then put them up on the wall, carefully fill the nail holes with a bit of wood filler, and then touch up the finish on the nail spots. I may also just finish the backs first, and not do any finish on the front until after the nail holes are filled. Still have to think through what would work best.
  11. A 2x4 channel is a great idea. You're right that'd provide more flexibility. Hopefully they don't go back to huge connectors- we seem to be shrinking them, moving away from the giant ones of old- but you never know!
  12. Interesting- thanks! That's a handy little tool. Yeah, I really should get into that habit. I've done a lot of re-wiring things here over the past few years and something like that would have been very helpful.
  13. Good thoughts. Part of my concern is also being able to run a new cable if necessary; HDMI won't be a useful cable forever, and I'll want to be able to run something new from the right to the TV area. Maybe if I took a portion of the sheetrock away, I could drill holes through the studs and run a pipe through those holes- thus giving me an easy path to run a new cable through in the future, if necessary. Construction adhesive scares me a bit- I liked the idea of this potentially being removable in the future without it being a total re-do of the wall, and that stuff never comes off anything. But, maybe there's no point to that- with so many holes in the wall, if we ever decided to take the wood down, it may be easier just to do all new drywall on there.
  14. Wife and I have decided to do an "accent wall" of walnut paneling in our family room. The woodworking part of it is fairly straightforward- I'm going to do a simple shiplap style installation, with roughly 6" wide boards that are somewhere between 3/8" and 1/2" thick, maybe with a tiny chamfer on each visible edge of every board- so each shiplap joint will have a tiny V, basically. I've got a ton of 4/4 rough sawn walnut that I'm hoping I'll be able to resaw, so that each board makes two pieces of finished paneling. I'd initially planned on taking a bunch of 2x4s, ripping them into 1" thick strips, and fastening them up and down the wall to match where the studs are- then I'd just take a finish nailer to attach each walnut board to the pine strips. Effectively, this would mean that there is a gap of 1" in between the drywall and the walnut. Currently, we have our TV mounted on the wall, a sound bar mounted right below that, and a media console on the floor in front of it that hides plugs, cables, etc. In my dream scenario, the media console completely goes away and the only thing on that wall is the paneling, the TV, and the sound bar. Below the sound bar, I would prefer to not see anything except POSSIBLY a power outlet, but if I can hide that somehow, I'd love to do that, too. We run the TV off of an HTPC, and my plan was to locate the HTPC somewhere to the right of the wooden wall- there's a little area between the couch and the next wall where something could hide low to the ground. The only thing that has to connect between the HTPC and the TV is a single HDMI cable. I've thought about coming up with a way to essentially hide a piece of PVC pipe behind the paneling- in that 1" gap- where I could snake my HDMI cable through, up to the TV, and have it exit the lower right side of the wooden wall. I guess I have a few main questions: 1. Is doing that 1" gap a smart move? Is there a good reason to avoid attaching the wood paneling directly thru the drywall and into the studs, or am I better off just laying the walnut directly on the drywall and using nails that are long enough to go through 1/2" of walnut, 1/2" of drywall, and then get secured to the studs behind that? 2. Is there some other clever way of hiding outlets/cabling when doing a wooden wall like this? I've already got one of those "hide the cables behind the wall" things that allows me to plug the TV into the outlet that's 2' below the TV, without seeing the cable draped there, once that media console is gone- that box/outlet will be exposed. I attached a few pics to give an idea of what things sort of look like. They're old, and the TV in this picture isn't wall mounted yet, but it gives you an idea. In the rendering, ignore the floating shelves- old idea that won't happen- and pretend that the wall behind the TV is what will get the walnut paneling. We are planning on refinishing the fireplace white and I'll be building a new mantle to replace the ugly one that's currently there. The little dark brown thing under the window will disappear- that was a chest to hold diaper changing supplies, and the kids are done with diapers so I get that space back. That's where I want the HTPC to live.
  15. Anti-snipe tip

    Yep, I try and do the same sort of thing whenever possible. Works great! Good tip.