Battle Ridge

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  • Woodworking Interests
    All areas from standing timber to finished product.
  1. Workbench / Assembly Table Drawers - Seeking Recommendations

    As I begin to use the workbench and do assembly work on projects, I should develop a better idea of the type of things I use and will need on a regular basis. Instead of taking a one-size-fits-all approach, a mix of smaller and larger drawers might work better and utilize the space to it's maximum potential. One of my original thoughts was that the shelving and storage spot for my fastening and other hardware was on the other side of the shop (not convenient) and not the best organized, and as I transform a storage area (mowers, tiller, etc.) to a woodoworking area, I need to have the items, tools and other things closer at hand. I may just keep enough of the often-needed supplies for several projects at the work area and restock it when needed from the larger quantities I usually purchase, negating the need for the larger workbench drawers. For now, I may settle on having a few cardboard or other boxes at hand and as things accumulate I can use the forum info to develop a more carefully-considered plan to customize the work area. I appreciate all of the info everyone has shared and it has given me a much better perspective.
  2. I am in the process of building a combination workbench / assembly table for my shop. The basic construction of the bench is 2x6 & 2x4 framing with a double layer of 3/4" plywood for a top and a tempered hardboard work surface. My plan is to install two drawers that will hold a variety of items including screws and fastening hardware, handtools and a variety of other items. Given the size of the drawers and how quickly the weight can add up, I would like for the drawers to be strong and heavy duty enough to support the load without sagging or failure - though at the same time economical to construct (thus no fancy drawer slides or hardware). Each drawer will be 30-3/4" wide by 42" deep and 5-1/2" tall. The drawers will be accessible from each side of the workbench and will pull out about 20 inches with the remainder of the unextended drawer supporting the extended section (thus allowing half of the items to be accessible from one side and the other half of the items from the other side of the workbench). The drawers will rest on a full depth support ("A" in the photo) and my plan is to install 1/32" thick "Slick Tape" on the top of each support and/or on the bottom of the sides of the drawer. There is a full depth 2x6 along the top of each side of the drawers to prevent the drawer from tipping and dropping when extended (with enough clearance to remove any swelling & expansion concerns). I would appreciate recommendations on the drawer construction and supports. What would be the best material for the fronts of the drawers, the sides, the drawer bottom, and for the drawer supports ("A" in the photo)? Also what type of construction / joinery would be best, and what type of additional supports would you recommend. I have searched around online but due to the drawer size and the weight of the contents, as well as the use (nothing fancy is needed, just adequate long-term functioning) I wanted to get the insight of anyone here. Thank you in advance.
  3. Seeking Bandsaw Blade Recommendations and Insight

    I made my final choice and placed the orders for new blades last night - the 1" Laguna Resaw King, & the bi-metal Lenox Diemaster 2 in both a 1/2" 4 tpi and 1/4" 6 tpi size. Wood Werks in Columbus has 10% off machines this weekend and without the $75 shipping charge that other dealers require this made the saw the cheapest I have found it. My Chief Financial Officer (wifey) and I made the 80 mile trip to Columbus on Friday and purchased the saw (which is now sitting in the back of my pickup). While in Columbus, we also went to 'The Woodworking Shows' which is at the state fairgrounds this weekend where (among other things) we had the opportunity to see Alex Snodgrass and his bandsaw clinic. While I have seen many of his videos online, it was a true pleasure to see him in person and to have the opportunity to speak with him after the clinic, and additionally to speak with his father and meet Alex's wife. They are truly a class act with a wealth of helpful information and knowledge. Thank you to all who responded and I very much appreciate the insight and the multitude of perspectives. In some ways it can be mind boggling, but it allowed me the opportunity to dig deeper into the individual aspects. I am looking forward to putting the saw to use and with my three-blade beginning, I should be able to get a good idea of what works best for my individual needs and for my various projects, where I can further adjust and refine in the future if needed. Most of my resaw work should be in wood from the schoolhouse, which is quite old and dry. The framing is a full 2" thick, with the side framing over 5" wide and the ceiling, roof and floor joists are even wider. I have a few sections of Poplar sitting in my shop from a tree that had fallen a while back and I may try a couple cuts with that just to tinker around. I didn't treat the ends so there is a little bit of cracking, but overall they should be nice pieces to explore a bit with. Any substantial cutting of green wood will be with the portable sawmill though and with that I will also be able to mill the wood the wood to a size near what I want, hopefully limiting the need for any further extensive resaw work. A variety of my projects should lend well to a bit of a rustic / rougher surface so a cut fresh off the saw could have advantages, though some I may refine further with the random pad sander or the belt sander. Eventually a Jointer / Planer would be nice, though that won't be in the budget for a while (particularly with a helical head). I am sorry to hear of your experience with Hurricane Fran & Isabel, Steve, and know how helpless we can be when Mother Nature shows her strength - it is quite surprising how much damage can occur in a relatively short period of time. I can also sympathize with the concern for an ice storm and at my previous property and home, I had several large pine and it wasn't unusual for an ice-laden branch to break at the top, then cascade down to wipe out an entire row of large branches. The trees would often fill the void with other branches in the following years, but that only increases the risk of even more damage later. Our present property is of mixed hardwoods, with only about five pine (with some additional trees that we planted several years ago - though the deer have been very hard on them). I wish you the best in the recovery of your property. We received much damage from Derecho in 2012 which toppled many trees and snapped off many more halfway up and it was quite disheartening. The property was harvested somewhat heavily before we bought it in 2003 but fortunately it had the opportunity to recover somewhat before Derecho or the damage might have been even worse. Still there was a lot of work that needed to be done and many trails were completely blocked. I still get occasional broken trees as well as those that fall or die and am looking forward to adding a portable sawmill to take advantage of them between a larger harvest.
  4. Laguna 18BX (and similar size bandsaws)

    The Laguna 18BX bandsaw is my final choice. Wood Werks in Columbus is having their 2018 Winter Expo with a multitude of demos and displays this weekend, along with discounts of 10% off machines, 15% off accessories and 20% off lumber and turning blocks, so my Chief Financial Officer (wifey) and I made the 80 mile trip and purchased the saw. In addition to the 10% savings, I didn't have to pay the standard $75.00 delivery charge that purchasing from other dealers would have added, so that made the saw the cheapest I have ever found it. Next comes unloading and assembly but for convenience I can back my truck to the spot I will be placing the saw, making things go much easier. 'The Wood Working Shows' is also in Columbus at the State Fairgrounds this weekend and thus provided the opportunity to visit both events in one day. I don't think we were the only ones to take advantage of the timing of the events and Wood Werks parking lot was overflowing with parking extending into the snow-covered berm along the road and wherever people could fit their vehicles. Interestingly they received a delivery of Jet equipment today and they had to offload the truck some distance away, making it necessary to make several trips up and down the road with the forklift to ferry the equipment in. 'The Wood Working Shows' was nice and gave us the opportunity to see Alex Snodgrass in person with his bandsaw seminar and additionally to speak with him afterward, as well as to speak with his father and meet Alex's wife. They are a class act and a knowledge base that is very much worth seeing in person. Thank you to everyone that posted and the insight was quite helpful.
  5. Seeking Bandsaw Blade Recommendations and Insight

    Thank you for the comments and it has been quite helpful. I am planning on the 1" Resaw King blade and think it will best suit my needs. I am also considering a less-expensive blade for use in questionable material and while I have intentions of obtaining a metal detector, with the amount of reclaimed lumber I will be working with, it would likely be wise to have an alternative to the carbide when I'm not quite sure. Adding a smaller saw at some point in time could be beneficial for smaller work, and the scroll saw can be quite slow and not as effective for some uses. I am planning on purchasing the 18BX tomorrow so hope to finalize my blade choice soon thereafter. The choices are far-ranging and definitely not a case of having a one-size-fits-all option. If it were an affordable option, renovating and using the old schoolhouse would have been nice, but there are many things that would need to be done and the cost would be prohibitive. I have a 30'x40'x10'h workshop next to the house and would have easily had much more funding tied up in the school, as well as the school being about 1,500 ft from the house without utilities or power (we live in the middle of our 103 acre tree farm and the school is located alongisde our driveway).
  6. I would appreciate any recommendations and insight in regard to bandsaw blades. My shop presently consists of a 10" table saw, a 10" radial arm saw, scroll saw, router & table, as well as a selection of handheld power tools and other items. I am purchasing a bandsaw to increase my capabilities and am now down to finalizing my blade selection. After much research and consideration I have chosen the Laguna 18BX. (Sidenote: At some point in the future I may possibly purchase a 10" Rikon (or perhaps a used 14" saw) for smaller / detail work and to fill the gap between my scroll saw and the 18BX, but until then the 18BX will be my only bandsaw and I have other equipment needs before an additional bandsaw.) Specifications: 18" bandsaw Motor - 3hp, 230v Blade length - 145" Blade width - 1/8" to 1-1/4" Resaw capacity - 16" Throat - 18-7/32" Guides - Laguna Ceramic Weight - 410 lbs My most frequent tasks will be: General woodworking with a variety of wood ranging in thickness from 3/8" to 3/4", as well as 2" thick stock. Projects will include a multitude of decorative and craft-type projects, furniture making (primitive & simple designs and not so much fine furniture), and similar projects. Resaw work will include a multitude of full 2" thick boards ranging in width from 5-1/4" - 8". I have a one-room schoolhouse (unfortunately beyond affordable restroation) that has an addition that was used for farm-type purposes, and I will be dismantling the building and repurposing the wood into useful products, requiring some of this wood will be resawn into thinner stock. I may also do some limited tinkering around with a smaller log sections to create cookies or similar cuts, or to possibly create an occasional small project board. This will be conducted within the capabilities of the saw and my other equipment (chain saw, etc.) will be used where appropriate. Also, my eventual plans are to obtain a portable sawmill to make use of the many hardwoods on my 103 acre tree farm. This wood will be cut to size, air or solar-kiln dried and used for a variety of projects, occasionally requiring further cutting and resawing on the bandsaw or other equipment. Bandsaw blade collection I am considering: Laguna Resaw King (carbide), 1", 3-4 Variable TPI Lenox Diemaster 2 (bi-metal), 1/2", 4 TPI, Skip Tooth Lenox Diemaster 2 (bi-metal), 3/8", 10-14 Variable TPI Lenox Diemaster 2 (bi-metal), 1/4", 6 TPI, Skip Tooth My intent is to be able to perform a multitude of functions with the saw, and additionally to learn of and refine my personal bandsaw abilities & needs. I have a preference toward quality and longevity, and thus my choice of brand-name carbide and bi-metal blades. Any thoughts or opinions are welcome and it can be most helpful to hear of real world experience. I have done several hours of research but want to be sure I am on the right path before making a purchase. Attached are pictures of the school and some of the type of products the saw will be used for. (Note: The school picture is mine, the other pictures were obtained elsewhere.) Thank you in advance!
  7. Laguna 18BX (and similar size bandsaws)

    The 18BX is rated for a 1-1/4" wide blade, though at the same time, my preference is to not necessarily push the upper capacity (tension requirements) of my equipment and therefore a 1" blade could be preferable. I know that a wider blade can correspond with a straighter cut, but for my purposes it is possible that the 1" width would provide satisfactory results and be a good fit. This is something that will likely get additional scrutiny before making a final decision. The portable sawmill I am considering runs a 1-1/4" blade and cuts relatively swiftly. Once I am finished reclaiming the lumber from the schoolhouse / barn addition, much of the wood I will be utilizing will come from the timber on my property and generally milled to the size needed. While I anticipate some occasional resaw work will follow, it will not be to a great extent, so with this I am having a difficult time envisioning anything larger than an 18" bandsaw in the shop. In regard to smaller / detail work, I am leaning toward the option of a 10" Rikon and it seems like it would work well in conjunction with my present scroll saw and the larger bandsaw, filling a specific niche in my needs. In focusing on the type of projects I have in mind and my overall woodworking needs, it is paramount that the equipment match and work well in reaching the ultimate outcome I would like. While I can foresee a variety of different saws performing a multitude of general woodworking tasks, the more I define my own unique personal needs, the more I find my field of choices narrowing. I can envision the possibility of various gaps laying between my final choice of saws, but in many ways the gaps correspond with the lack of an actual need to do a lot of cutting within those gaps. While my search still remains a continuing process, the research I have been doing - including input from various forums and the wealth of experienced insight here - has been instrumental in helping me not only build a bandsaw information base, but to also further define my needs and wants. I appreciate everything everyone has shared.
  8. Laguna 18BX (and similar size bandsaws)

    I appreciate the feedback and they have kicked in the brain cells this morning by contemplating the options. My concern in regard to a larger bandsaw is that it would likely see very limited long-term use and end up being an albatross in the shop. I have a friend that has offered me his large industrial size bandsaw (I forget the size but it's big), so that route has already been considered & ruled out - just too much machine. Once I have reclaimed the wood from the school (& barn addition), my resaw needs will drop considerably. The majority of the 2" thick wood ranges from 4 - 8" wide with a variety that is 10"+. Initially the wood will be crosscut to length (radial arm saw), typically to 4' or less depending on the project - and easy to handle. Most of the wood for table & bench tops and other pieces will remain full dimension, with additional boards ripped to width (tablesaw) when smaller sizes (table legs, etc.) are needed. Most of the resaw work will be to create table aprons, and smaller thickness boards for decorative / craft creations where full thickness boards would be unsuitable and will oftentimes be in the range of 1 - 2 ft lengths. The eventual addition of the portable sawmill will allow the option to custom mill and dry a variety of board sizes (as well as different hardwood species), and having the capability of using the shop bandsaw to further process or resaw individual pieces when needed can be a plus. Hopefully most of my on-hand stock of wood will be close to what is needed, but having the option of placing the resaw blade on the 18BX and having it's capabilities is attractive. Until the sawmill purchase is made though, I anticipate doing some occasional tinkering around with the shop bandsaw in regard to small (easy to handle 1-2 ft long, less than 12" diameter) log sections for a few project boards, 'cookies' or such. Much of my focus is on remaining within the realistic capabilities of my equipment and I have been trying my best to research as much as possible including reading, video viewing (helpful) and more. I have looked at a variety of saws in the 14" range (Laguna, Jet, Rikon) and while I was originally focusing on that group, upon having the opportunity to view the 18BX (as well as the 18" Jet) and comparing the different saws side-by-side, I began to lean toward the 18BX. On the plus side, the 18" offers a much longer blade - thus longer lasting between sharpening, the option for a wider blade and less overall stress on the blade due to the larger diameter wheels. The table size and fence is also considerably larger on the 18" vs the 14", and additional horsepower comes with the 18". The 18" is also a substantially more beefy machine and I would be less likely to ever push the upper limits of it's capabilities in comparison to the 14", particularly when utilized for resaw use. ** On the concerning side is that the 18" is a lot more machine and while each runs similar smaller width blades, I was wondering how much of a hindrance (if any) the larger machine would be for everyday use or in smaller projects and cutting. I realize that bigger isn't always better (but can be nice when you need it), and want to look at the intricacies and possible advantages of a smaller over a larger machine too. As a side note, I also have an older 10" Craftsman bandsaw that I acquired when my father passed away (I believe he may have bought it at a yard sale or such), but the tires are toast and while the motor runs, I don't know how good of an overall machine it is, and have been reluctant to replace and invest in the three tires that would be required - thinking it could be better to just upgrade to a new machine (Rikon 10" - $250) for small tasks if I would decide to go that route. Anyway... I very much DO appreciate the feedback and given the chilly Ohio weather, will likely spend the afternoon digging around online and re-considering the 14" bandsaw recommendations, though larger size saws are likely out of the picture, with my focus in that regard more on a future smaller portable sawmill.
  9. I am anticipating purchasing the Laguna 18BX Bandsaw and would appreciate any insight and experiences that anyone would like to share on this or other similar size saws. The reason I am looking at the 18" / 3hp size is for the resaw capability, most likely with the 1-1/4" Resaw King blade, though I would like to do a variety of other bandsaw work with it too. I have an old one-room schoolhouse (that is unfortunately beyond affordable refurbishment) that has an addition on two sides that was later used for general farm use. The majority of the lumber is in relatively good condition and I plan on repurposing the wood for a variety of projects, furniture and other uses. The ability to resaw the many 8/4 boards to 4/4 and other thickness would provide much more flexibility in gaining the most of what I have available. I also have a 103 acre tree farm and at some point plan on adding a portable sawmill (EZ Boardwalk Jr, smaller Wood Mizer or similar) to make use of the annual tree fall, dying or weather damaged trees in which I will mill & dry the timber and further process the wood to a variety of projects, and thus the bandsaw will play a role here too. Also, in the meantime, I may do some small-scale milling of occasional smaller logs with the bandsaw into various project boards. Additionally, I am retired and looking at something to fill my free time and possibly supplement our income with products sold at an active local craft establishment. The set up fee is approximately $100 +/- per month (depending on the size of the space used) with a 10% commission on sales - where we basically set up / restock our display space as needed and they handle everything else. The bandsaw would be used for creating a variety of crafts and other items (primitive and otherwise) and in this, I am curious how well the larger bandsaw would perform when running with a smaller blade and making more intricate cuts. Any input would be appreciated and while I am feeling pretty confident in the direction I am leaning, before shelling out a couple thousand dollars, I'd like to hear and learn all I can. The price-point of the Laguna is on the upper edge of the budget, but should be workable. I like the design and quality of the 18BX, the capabilities, guide system and features of the machine. I presently have Radial Arm Saw, Table Saw, Scroll Saw, Router/Table, and a variety of hand power tools, as well as a 30' x 40' workshop (also used to house my tractor and other general shop items).