VizslaDad

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VizslaDad last won the day on December 9 2020

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About VizslaDad

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    https://www.instagram.com/sawdust_club/?hl=en

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    NE Ohio
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry, homebuilding

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  1. A shelf doesn't necessarily need to be accessible if it's relatively visible. Decor items could go on it.
  2. That seems like a pretty reasonable price for the accuracy. I think I am going to pick one up!
  3. One tip for the running shoe wearers (or any other shoes primarily cushioned with EVA foam) is that rotating pairs of shoes will give better wear life and performance over the course of that wear life than wearing the same pair every day. EVA foam takes many hours to fully decompress after being worn for any meaningful length of time. So, if a person wears one pair of running shoes every day they're wearing increasingly compressed material, which yield decreasing amounts of cushion and breaks the material down faster than if the shoes "rested" overnight. The rule of thumb is one can enjoy the
  4. @wtnhighlander you might consider using something like "Lock Laces" (US $10/pair). They're elastic laces with a little spring lock like those used on drawstrings. They effectively turn lace up boots into slip on boots. Undo the little spring lock and you'll be able to kick off your boots without losing your socks in the process! @curlyoak you make excellent points. I worked at a running shoe store in college (different job from the running shoe manufacturer) and one thing that that particular vein of shoe retail tends to hide from customers is that, by and large, the more expensive shoe
  5. I used to work for a running shoe manufacturer. I have also struggled with lots of running-related injuries in my late teens and twenties, followed by some pretty severe back issues. These circumstances have all led to my over-examination of footwear and its impacts on comfort and health. There are many factors that ought to drive a thoughtful selection of footwear, but I'll offer my thoughts on what I think are the three key ones to me: biomechanics, cushioning, and structure. What I have barfed up below is pretty long, and if you'd rather not wade through it, here are my main thoughts:
  6. I read you loud and clear. I do agree wood glue would probably be fine. I bolded your items that I am applying to my situation (I hadn't thought of the last one, but that is a great idea!). I am thinking that the imperfect interface between the "leg box" pieces and interior core will require actual structural filling. Plus, the long open time will give me more time to fiddle with the fit/fix clamp induced slippage vs racing against the clock. I will still practice my glue up routine multiple times before showtime of course.
  7. Oh I hear you. To be honest, I wanted to test myself and my tool setups a bit since I have been away from furniture projects for a couple years. I have some of Bob Lang's Craftsman furniture books and enjoy all the joinery drawings in them. When I saw the Stickley joinery with the little corners it looked like something to try to gauge where I am at the moment. Hindsight being what it is, I should have just used my domino or splines!
  8. Wow, thank you everyone. This thread shows a wealth of information and experience. My first leg's worth of pieces were only fair to middling off the tablesaw, and are now approaching okay after an hour's work fiddling by hand. We'll be putting that leg against the wall. I cut the profiles for this particular leg the other day and my setup wasn't great, I think. It looks like my riving knife needs to be tweaked. That said, I just finished cutting the rest of the profiles into my leg pieces and they are pretty good. The legs go together squarely and the miters aren't very gappy along a
  9. Hi folks - I am building a Stickley-inspired entry bench for some family friends. I have not finished tuning the joinery for my quadralinear legs, but I anticipate some minor gaps here and there. Epoxy was already in my plans for gluing up the legs, and I think I have enough J-B Weld ClearWeld Pro on hand to glue the legs and their cores together. However, I worry that the 5 min set time on the material I have could be unforgiving. I could let me shop get colder than 40 degrees F and that could give me a little more (and less pleasant) working time. All of this is to say I believe I should spe
  10. That's pretty remarkable. One of his latest videos showing his old tool layout in his new space (went from 2 car garage-ish space to three car garage) showed how much more room for activities he has now!
  11. I have not used this particular line from GF, but they have products called "Exterior 450" that look like they'd fit the bill for you. There's both a stain and compatible outdoor topcoat with UV inhibitors. Like a lot of GF products they're water based. My guess is these products (properly applied of course) will make your doors look great for a long time, but the brutal sun makes a permanent fix unreasonable to expect. Stain: https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-professional/exterior-topcoats-stains-oils/exterior-450-water-based-wood-stain Topcoat: https://generalfinishes.com/w
  12. He really had a "ten pounds of...stuff in a five pound bag" kind of approach to his last shop. It was a daylight basement packed to the gills with tools. My recollection is that he'd have had to completely redo his shop layout to get a better DC run and that wasn't sufficiently important to him to warrant the effort.
  13. I have an i-Box too (damned youtube demos got me!) and it has a lot of limitations. It is great for banging out a lot of small boxes or drawers but has real limitations when it comes to working with thicker stock or larger workpieces.
  14. Definitely want to use PPE if you're doing that kind of work.