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About VizslaDad

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    NE Ohio
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry, homebuilding

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  1. I have the 1.75hp Sawstop contractor saw, and I have definitely bogged it down on harder boards and/or deep cuts. I would opt for more horsepower especially if getting the electrical situated for it is not an insurmountable task.
  2. I paid an electrician to wire and energize my new 60amp panel in the shop/garage. He tied it into my main panel. Apparently, technically, the panel in the shop/garage is not a sub panel. It has its own ground rod etc. @wtnhighlander @collinb I am on track to insulate, wire, and otherwise spruce up my detached garage for under $7k...and then I will be 100% able to focus my spare time on woodworking for the first time in over two years. Nearly $5k of that $7k is just in the spray foam and electrical panel installations. If I lived in an area that was less persnickety about development I might be able to get away with a cheap rebuild. Unfortunately, given my town's requirements there isn't a practical way for me to avoid paying an architect, acquiring full permits, and contracting out a full rebuild. I even brought in a contractor my wife and I have used for two full-gut remodels in Cleveland to assess the situation, and he brought his concrete guy to check out the existing garage's slab and foundation. Long story short, it would have been a miracle to build a new garage that matched the aesthetics of our home and met local requirements for anything less than $35k...scratch I do not have!
  3. Well I was going to build a whole separate building from scratch, and was excited to do so, so this is only a minor PITA. The challenge now will be to do just enough wiring to get started and have a little room to grow but not so much I have to rip it all apart and redo it when the inevitable shop reconfigurations occur. Yup. Never really stopped, just had little of consequence to share. I am excited to be off and running now though.
  4. Big update! I have opted to remodel my detached garage vs. building a standalone dedicated shop building. The mandated setbacks and peculiarities of my yard would make building the standalone shop problematic. This realization was a little bit of a bummer, but the CEO has been supportive of my efforts to shore up the detached garage. Here's where I am now: Electrical I needed to improve the power supply. The garage had one circuit run out to it from the main panel when we bought the place. This was clearly not going to cut it, so I hired an electrician to install a 60amp panel. Unfortunately, it did not work out logistically for me to rent a trencher, so I cut a trench for conduit from my house to the garage (close to 50'). Suffice as to say this was fairly unpleasant due to our lovely clay soils. I very literally was cutting and lifting out bricks of clay with a mattock, which then had to be knocked off the blade by hand each time. It took me three days (before work, after work time) to cut the trench. I made sure to lay a length of conduit in the trench for an ethernet cable. I work from home 4/5 of the time, as does my wife. My work typically requires me to be video conferences, and I tend to project my voice in those situations much to my wife's chagrin. Thus there is a possibility that I will set up my office out in the shop when it's put together, and our wifi as-is probably wouldn't work. My current home office is adjacent to the spot the electrical service leaves the house and travels to the garage. It will be straightforward to cut a hole in the exterior wall, run the ethernet cable, and install a jack with another line to our router inside the office. Next steps re: the electrical will be to surface mount EMT conduit and wire a few circuits. This will occur after I've finished insulating and covering the walls (see below). None of my tools are wired for 220v yet so I'm only going to run 20amp 110v circuits and receptacles for the time being. Building Envelope I wanted to make sure I didn't waste time and money insulating and air-sealing the space (or even worse, create a problem that shortens the building's remaining life vs. lengthening it). I spent a good amount of time on and, asked some questions, and received excellent answers specific to the particulars of my building. I even wrote into the Fine Homebuilding podcast and they discussed my project in episode 192: The approach I settled on considering cost control is paramount and the fact that I have a low-sloped/flat roof is to: 1. air seal with installed closed cell spray foam insulation 2. augment with fluffy insulation (fiberglass, as mineral wool would blow my budget to pieces) 3. hang 1/2" 4-ply sheathing plywood on the walls and 7/16 osb on the ceiling 4. improve the seal around the garage door and man doors Step 1 is complete: I am looking forward to making a bunch of sawdust and getting that plywood and osb in place. Fingers crossed that work, family, and health all align to enable me to button this up before the snow flies!
  5. I think this was my favorite quote: Some people call this space a studio. There is artistry...but it's a shop. It's noisy. It's physical. Machines play a big role. It's not a factory where parts move from station to station manned by operators. Parts do move from station to station, but they are accompanied by crafts men and women whose hands, eyes, and hearts are engaged in the steps and invested in the outcome.
  6. I've recently been fascinated by shop-made machinery. Specifically I would like to build a stroke sander one day. Philip Morely has a cool one in his small shop, and various FWW authors throughout the years have had the odd gem. Gary Weeks' shop has some seriously cool shop-made machines though! I thought folks would enjoy seeing them if they hadn't already. His "straight line machine" (edge jointer using a shaper spindle) is also interesting.
  7. @drzaius & @AJ_Engineer oh, good point. I also worry that the need for stairs down to a lower level will impact my working floor space, and my original approximate plan was pushing the CEO's acceptable tolerance for eating up backyard outdoor space.
  8. This is cool! I think my wife would love something like this. I am going to see how much of a PITA it'd be to put the rack on hinges so it wouldn't block the window 100% of the time (which is something she probably wouldn't want).
  9. I will be the umpteenth vote for dados on this one. Plus your little divider guys will act like cleats to keep the top flat. Of course if you're worried about that at all, I do wonder if sliding dovetails wouldn't have more mechanical strength from a cleat standpoint. I'm not sure though.
  10. All laughter aside, I am now reconsidering my desire to keep the shop floor level with the garage. So long as I can safely keep surface moisture at bay I think I'm going to try to shoot for steps down to the shop level to maximize the height. Heck, I've dealt with mechanically lifting stuff in my prior shops just fine.
  11. Hey @RJS - great question. The swale definitely cuts the back yard in half, to a point where it drops sharply into a ravine. This will make for a number of nice launching point for a zip line and some future mountain bike/ski trails. The CEO has also requested a series of bridges in the future...hopefully those will help justify a new chainsaw purchase. The driveway/parking area in front of the garage and house is slightly elevated from the area between the house and garage. There is one stone step down to a sloped path that leads into the eastern part of the back yard. The breezeway will eliminate the possibility for anything larger than a riding lawnmower to get back there, though for practical purposes that is not a problem. The setback from my property line to the garage is only 10-15 feet, and mostly tree-lined. "E Yard" in my drawing below is a fairly confined area due to the deep swale and ravines. EMS could get to that yard through my neighbors property in the event of a catastrophe. We have a little bridge by the deck across the swale, and a person can cross the swale itself (albeit with zero expectations of staying clean and dry) when it's not super nasty outside.
  12. I followed your shop build closely, and it definitely looks like yours is a great living proof example!
  13. CEO and I are set on the breezeway (house does not have a mudroom but we need one, and she likes the look we have in mind). Plus the end of the house closest to the garage contains our living room and master bedroom. Not only would would this create much more complex surgery to the house proper than I care to get into myself, but I would be hard pressed to sufficiently abate noise and vibration to an acceptable level. I do appreciate the thoughts though!
  14. Lots of votes for the front-facing gable! I will let the CEO know. I definitely agree on the steeper pitch. It's definitely narrow (the garage was built in the 20s). It may be more complicated and expensive to widen the garage, as I'd have to expand the existing foundation and slab. Plus we can already park my truck and my wife's car in the existing narrow garage, so selling the expansion (when she already likes how narrow it looks!) is likely a no-go. I wanted to back the breezeway off from the front line of part of the house to which it will attach, but to do so would require removing a gas fireplace in that room, and the kick-out on the side of the house that accommodates it. A long narrow breezeway was designed by request. I thought about that, but the CEO wants to minimize how much of our usable outdoor space adjacent to the house is sucked up by my shop. The spot immediately behind the garage is sort of a hidden pocket, hence her being ok with it turning into a shop. Plus the breezeway is a passage between the driveway + front yard to the backyard, which itself is split down the middle by a deep swale that runs into a ravine. The breezeway will be the only practical way to get from the front-left part of the house to the backyard, hence french doors on either side: