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Everything posted by VizslaDad

  1. I do not own the table saw nor the dust collector you mention, but in terms of specs they look nice additions to your current compliment of tools. I have a Grizzly jointer and it's a fine tool for my purposes. I would say at those price points you're going to find lots of options from many different manufacturers, and perhaps with rare exceptions minimal significant differences between those options. Laguna, for example, has a very similar saw at approximately the same price. There are boatloads of dust collectors in that price range. Real duds are typically outed by overwhelmingly negative reviews (the less expensive planer-joiner combo machines come to mind here). I don't think this happens to be the case for either of the items you're considering for your shop. If you have had success with your Grizzly tools to date, and have also had enjoyed buying from them (assuming you got your drill press and bandsaw new), there's little reason to believe you'd have a bad time with either that table saw or dust collector. If you don't mind scouring the internet a little you might be able to find a better deal on "more" saw (via an older used Powermatic perhaps), but there is certainly something to be said for buying new and not inheriting a prior owner's issues. If you can afford these items without endangering your financial/familial wellbeing, you don't have serious complaints about your Grizzly tools or Grizzly in general, and you'd rather be woodworking than pulling your hair out comparing tools and reading reviews...I say pull the trigger. Very worst-case scenario you can get to work with the tools and, with more experience, decide you want bigger motors or different capabilities (or whatever) and sell them to partially fund something new. Perhaps start with the dust collector and focus on getting it set up for your space and current workflows. I think you'll be happy.
  2. I was going to say, I think I finally know what can be done with bags of sawdust...just add leafblower!
  3. If Amazon Prime is a must-have from a shopping perspective, this Shop Fox (Grizzly!) is available: It's just got a bag (not the nice canister the aforementioned Grizzly has) but it's...available via prime.
  4. Two words: potato gun.
  5. I have the Jet JDP17 with the fiddly depth stop. It was in storage for over a year before we moved, and once I got it back into a usable space I had to read the instructions and watch a video to remember how to set it properly. It's a less-intuitive mechanism than the standard depth stop I see on most drill presses.
  6. Concrete block is also potentially suboptimal without a ton of steel in Southern California from a seismic perspective. Also, concrete block may not burn (easily), but it can definitely spall...with potentially explosive results...if heated by fire. That all said it could be an economical way to go. So far as steel siding is concerned, it doesn't all look like rural pole barn standing seam stuff (if one's trying to avoid that look), for example: I still like the idea of steel siding and a steel roof for an outbuilding in SoCal given the fire-resistance relative to wood products. I'd still use wooden framing materials though.
  7. I think I am swayed. I am a little concerned I won't be able to easily source a replacement for that indexing piece of the pulley,! Now to convince my reluctant friends.
  8. Are you planning to buy a prefab building? Or are you going to build it yourself? Post frame or stick frame? Personally, in your climate, I would optimize for cost and appearance, and divert as much cash as I could stand into insulation (and insulated things like rollup doors, windows, etc.). Now, that said, I have only stick framed buildings myself (though basic post frame techniques are not rocket surgery) so I would be biased towards stick framing on slab-on-grade and installing a metal roof and siding. Bugs don't eat metal. I don't think the choice of exterior skin is going to significantly change the difficulty of plumbing etc.
  9. +1 on this sort of technique. It is very handy for making tricky cuts. I recently had to make an awkward tapered rip on a piece of oak flooring myself. My solution was to mark my cut line on the workpiece, brad nail it nice side down to a sacrificial board, brad another piece of scrap flooring adjacent to the waste side of my workpiece as additional saw support, and rip freehand with my circular saw with the blade tilted. My sacrificial "bed" board helped reduce chip out (the flooring was pre-finished, so now I am looking forward to all the new saw blades I need to buy ). I cleaned it up with a block plane, but only because it was in my tool belt and my belt sander was on the other side of the house. Complementary and supplementary angles are your friends when the cuts get weird!
  10. A gentleman in the next town over from me (Orange, OH near Cleveland) is clearing out his deceased father's basement shop and trying to sell off whatever he can. However, he's found no buyers for his dad's old General 260 lathe (see attached images) and is happy to give it away to anyone who can get it out of the basement. Obviously a free full sized lathe that is supposedly in good working order (he'd already started disassembling it so I did not get to see it run) is tempting, but I have a question. The variable speed spindle pulley is partially broken (replacement part #7 in this doc: I didn't get a picture of it because my friends and I only made a quick pit stop to check out the whole lot for sale, but it would appear like the pulley is still fully capable of retaining the belt. My concern is that it's clearly no longer anything close to balanced, and since General shuttered a while back the likelihood of finding replacement parts (aside from parting out another 260) I wonder how problematic that could be. I know I am not providing a lot of info here, but based on what I've shared, does this seem like a "definitely snatch it up!" or "pass!" situation to you folks? I don't turn a bunch (I just have one of those little Rockler mini lathes which is fine for pulls and such) but this seems like an opportunity to evaluate.
  11. I don't own either but I think you're really talking about very different pieces of equipment. Were it up to me, and money were no object, I would go the Incra route. The Wixey devices I currently own are fine, although a few drops on a concrete floor haven't helped. Of course if money were no object and I were looking at making repeatable cuts on the tablesaw I would also consider a big sliding TS. I understand this isn't the question, though, so I digress. I haven't met anyone who owns the Incra fence and doesn't absolutely love it (I am sure it's not a universally-adored product but there are a lot of vocally positive people online). The beauty of the Incra product to me is the adjustability and repeatability of cuts, at least as it's been demonstrated to me. That said, it is a lot of coin. What's your use case? Nearly any fence that can be set reliably square to the blade could be set up with a high degree of repeatability using templates for production cuts etc. Since you're asking about pieces of equipment separated in price by nearly a factor of ten it would be helpful to know what kind of work you do/plan to do.
  12. I have the 1.75hp Sawstop contractor saw, and I have definitely bogged it down on harder boards and/or deep cuts. I would opt for more horsepower especially if getting the electrical situated for it is not an insurmountable task.
  13. I paid an electrician to wire and energize my new 60amp panel in the shop/garage. He tied it into my main panel. Apparently, technically, the panel in the shop/garage is not a sub panel. It has its own ground rod etc. @wtnhighlander @collinb I am on track to insulate, wire, and otherwise spruce up my detached garage for under $7k...and then I will be 100% able to focus my spare time on woodworking for the first time in over two years. Nearly $5k of that $7k is just in the spray foam and electrical panel installations. If I lived in an area that was less persnickety about development I might be able to get away with a cheap rebuild. Unfortunately, given my town's requirements there isn't a practical way for me to avoid paying an architect, acquiring full permits, and contracting out a full rebuild. I even brought in a contractor my wife and I have used for two full-gut remodels in Cleveland to assess the situation, and he brought his concrete guy to check out the existing garage's slab and foundation. Long story short, it would have been a miracle to build a new garage that matched the aesthetics of our home and met local requirements for anything less than $35k...scratch I do not have!
  14. Well I was going to build a whole separate building from scratch, and was excited to do so, so this is only a minor PITA. The challenge now will be to do just enough wiring to get started and have a little room to grow but not so much I have to rip it all apart and redo it when the inevitable shop reconfigurations occur. Yup. Never really stopped, just had little of consequence to share. I am excited to be off and running now though.
  15. Big update! I have opted to remodel my detached garage vs. building a standalone dedicated shop building. The mandated setbacks and peculiarities of my yard would make building the standalone shop problematic. This realization was a little bit of a bummer, but the CEO has been supportive of my efforts to shore up the detached garage. Here's where I am now: Electrical I needed to improve the power supply. The garage had one circuit run out to it from the main panel when we bought the place. This was clearly not going to cut it, so I hired an electrician to install a 60amp panel. Unfortunately, it did not work out logistically for me to rent a trencher, so I cut a trench for conduit from my house to the garage (close to 50'). Suffice as to say this was fairly unpleasant due to our lovely clay soils. I very literally was cutting and lifting out bricks of clay with a mattock, which then had to be knocked off the blade by hand each time. It took me three days (before work, after work time) to cut the trench. I made sure to lay a length of conduit in the trench for an ethernet cable. I work from home 4/5 of the time, as does my wife. My work typically requires me to be video conferences, and I tend to project my voice in those situations much to my wife's chagrin. Thus there is a possibility that I will set up my office out in the shop when it's put together, and our wifi as-is probably wouldn't work. My current home office is adjacent to the spot the electrical service leaves the house and travels to the garage. It will be straightforward to cut a hole in the exterior wall, run the ethernet cable, and install a jack with another line to our router inside the office. Next steps re: the electrical will be to surface mount EMT conduit and wire a few circuits. This will occur after I've finished insulating and covering the walls (see below). None of my tools are wired for 220v yet so I'm only going to run 20amp 110v circuits and receptacles for the time being. Building Envelope I wanted to make sure I didn't waste time and money insulating and air-sealing the space (or even worse, create a problem that shortens the building's remaining life vs. lengthening it). I spent a good amount of time on and, asked some questions, and received excellent answers specific to the particulars of my building. I even wrote into the Fine Homebuilding podcast and they discussed my project in episode 192: The approach I settled on considering cost control is paramount and the fact that I have a low-sloped/flat roof is to: 1. air seal with installed closed cell spray foam insulation 2. augment with fluffy insulation (fiberglass, as mineral wool would blow my budget to pieces) 3. hang 1/2" 4-ply sheathing plywood on the walls and 7/16 osb on the ceiling 4. improve the seal around the garage door and man doors Step 1 is complete: I am looking forward to making a bunch of sawdust and getting that plywood and osb in place. Fingers crossed that work, family, and health all align to enable me to button this up before the snow flies!
  16. I think this was my favorite quote: Some people call this space a studio. There is artistry...but it's a shop. It's noisy. It's physical. Machines play a big role. It's not a factory where parts move from station to station manned by operators. Parts do move from station to station, but they are accompanied by crafts men and women whose hands, eyes, and hearts are engaged in the steps and invested in the outcome.
  17. I've recently been fascinated by shop-made machinery. Specifically I would like to build a stroke sander one day. Philip Morely has a cool one in his small shop, and various FWW authors throughout the years have had the odd gem. Gary Weeks' shop has some seriously cool shop-made machines though! I thought folks would enjoy seeing them if they hadn't already. His "straight line machine" (edge jointer using a shaper spindle) is also interesting.
  18. @drzaius & @AJ_Engineer oh, good point. I also worry that the need for stairs down to a lower level will impact my working floor space, and my original approximate plan was pushing the CEO's acceptable tolerance for eating up backyard outdoor space.
  19. This is cool! I think my wife would love something like this. I am going to see how much of a PITA it'd be to put the rack on hinges so it wouldn't block the window 100% of the time (which is something she probably wouldn't want).
  20. I will be the umpteenth vote for dados on this one. Plus your little divider guys will act like cleats to keep the top flat. Of course if you're worried about that at all, I do wonder if sliding dovetails wouldn't have more mechanical strength from a cleat standpoint. I'm not sure though.
  21. All laughter aside, I am now reconsidering my desire to keep the shop floor level with the garage. So long as I can safely keep surface moisture at bay I think I'm going to try to shoot for steps down to the shop level to maximize the height. Heck, I've dealt with mechanically lifting stuff in my prior shops just fine.
  22. Hey @RJS - great question. The swale definitely cuts the back yard in half, to a point where it drops sharply into a ravine. This will make for a number of nice launching point for a zip line and some future mountain bike/ski trails. The CEO has also requested a series of bridges in the future...hopefully those will help justify a new chainsaw purchase. The driveway/parking area in front of the garage and house is slightly elevated from the area between the house and garage. There is one stone step down to a sloped path that leads into the eastern part of the back yard. The breezeway will eliminate the possibility for anything larger than a riding lawnmower to get back there, though for practical purposes that is not a problem. The setback from my property line to the garage is only 10-15 feet, and mostly tree-lined. "E Yard" in my drawing below is a fairly confined area due to the deep swale and ravines. EMS could get to that yard through my neighbors property in the event of a catastrophe. We have a little bridge by the deck across the swale, and a person can cross the swale itself (albeit with zero expectations of staying clean and dry) when it's not super nasty outside.
  23. I followed your shop build closely, and it definitely looks like yours is a great living proof example!
  24. CEO and I are set on the breezeway (house does not have a mudroom but we need one, and she likes the look we have in mind). Plus the end of the house closest to the garage contains our living room and master bedroom. Not only would would this create much more complex surgery to the house proper than I care to get into myself, but I would be hard pressed to sufficiently abate noise and vibration to an acceptable level. I do appreciate the thoughts though!