VizslaDad

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Everything posted by VizslaDad

  1. I subscribe to both FWW and Fine Homebuilding. I do enough remodeling and other construction-oriented stuff that I get a lot of value out of the latter.
  2. I have an Incra 1000SE and the Miter Express and I also no longer use the sled at all. The 5000 looks like a different story and interests me.
  3. What does she want to make next?
  4. Baleigh may also have contracts for manufacturing capacity that ultimately could give JPW better flexibility and turnaround times from a production standpoint. This is purely a guess on my part as I am only speculating as to the relationships between the brands and the factories that make their stuff.
  5. Ack, touche! I was thinking more along the the petrochemical lines but you are 100% correct of course.
  6. @derekcohen hopefully my chisels I currently have lying dormant, wrapped in newspaper in some hastily-constructed, glued-and-nailed plywood drawers never see your posts because then they will know the true extent of their neglect. Your builds are a great inspiration for what I'd like to do when I can make more time in the shop.
  7. I think a key takeaway from @Coop's advice here is to not overdo it (whether it's sanding or applying finish) on the wood portions of the piece if you want to retain its current patina but clean it up/preserve it for ongoing use. If you want an entirely different look (faux distressed milk paint or whatever) that's a whole different preparation schedule to pursue, and while not particularly difficult, a lot more work. I think you'd be quite happy following Coop's advice. Since you're unfamiliar with shellac, know that it is a natural finish created from a beetle secretion that is used in all sorts of products. If you've enjoyed a shiny candy or taken medication that had a shiny shell, it's likely covered in shellac. It's used in certain kinds of nail polish, paints, primers, and all manner of other products. It's a remarkable material that can be manipulated and applied to woodworking projects with great success with just a little practice. Shellac's solvent is alcohol (denatured alcohol, or real Everclear) so you're likely able to use it just fine in your spray system. However, it doesn't need to be sprayed, and I wouldn't spray it the first time I used it were it up to me. Look up how to dilute shellac, make a very light batch (the literature will talk about "cuts" of different weights...which I will not explain here but understand that it is essentially a certain weight of shellac in a certain volume of alcohol), and wipe or brush on super thin coats. Give it a shot on a small project sometime...it's a big time go-to finish for lots of us.
  8. Congratulations on the inbound bundle of joy. I'm going to echo all the sentiments folks have already shared. Frankly, most if not all woodworking tools have those California warnings plastered all over their manuals. Does that mean that a circular saw is really spraying carcinogens everywhere? No. Like @legenddc says, the warnings are in place of paying for prohibitively expensive and essentially unhelpful (for the majority of consumers and cases) testing. I have 11 month old twins. I care about what environmental factors I subject them to. That said, my wife and I aren't so paranoid that we're going to sell our house and move into a handwoven canvas yurt to escape modern materials. If you keep your house relatively clean, maybe run an air filter if you have anyone sensitive to dust etc., and get fresh air circulating through your house with some frequency everything should be a-ok. Now, if you're looking to satisfy a partner's paranoia re: materials used in the nursery, go with solid wood and shellac and/or milk paint and you can legitimately tell said partner you've used materials that won't offgas anything nasty or be problematic if gnawed on.
  9. No, not in any practical sense. However, a bigger blower (motor) will require 240v and therefore obviate the possibility of using 120v at a certain CFM. This speaks to why the horsepower ratings for machines that are 120v or 120v/240v peak at ~1.75hp.
  10. I agree with @Chestnut that a bandsaw would be high on my list (I also have a Laguna 14|12 and like it). One could buy a Laguna 14|12 bandsaw and a Jet or other not-as-nice-as-a-powermatic-but-still-totally-serviceable jointer for approximately the price of the powermatic parallelogram jointer (exa: https://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/collections/woodworking-jointers/products/shop-fox-w1857-8-inch-x-72-inch-built-in-mobile-base-dovetail-jointer) You don't mention an actual budget but were 3-ish grand in the ballpark I would buy those tools, then build a bench.
  11. A shelf doesn't necessarily need to be accessible if it's relatively visible. Decor items could go on it.
  12. That seems like a pretty reasonable price for the accuracy. I think I am going to pick one up!
  13. One tip for the running shoe wearers (or any other shoes primarily cushioned with EVA foam) is that rotating pairs of shoes will give better wear life and performance over the course of that wear life than wearing the same pair every day. EVA foam takes many hours to fully decompress after being worn for any meaningful length of time. So, if a person wears one pair of running shoes every day they're wearing increasingly compressed material, which yield decreasing amounts of cushion and breaks the material down faster than if the shoes "rested" overnight. The rule of thumb is one can enjoy the working life of three pair of shoes worn every day out of two pair simply by alternating them.
  14. @wtnhighlander you might consider using something like "Lock Laces" (US $10/pair). They're elastic laces with a little spring lock like those used on drawstrings. They effectively turn lace up boots into slip on boots. Undo the little spring lock and you'll be able to kick off your boots without losing your socks in the process! @curlyoak you make excellent points. I worked at a running shoe store in college (different job from the running shoe manufacturer) and one thing that that particular vein of shoe retail tends to hide from customers is that, by and large, the more expensive shoes are intended for heavier runners. The running shoe industry considers a "heavy" runner to be 160 lbs which I still find pretty funny, but I digress. I had customers, particularly super skinny high mileage female runners, who insisted on buying the highest end shoes despite advising them that those shoes were suboptimal for their builds and needs. I worked there long enough to have a lot of repeat customers, and a lot of them came back and tried the middle-of-the-road or cheaper models and were much happier because they were actually a more appropriate product for them. Sometimes it takes a lot of convincing for people to understand that paying the most for something doesn't automatically make it the best for them.
  15. I used to work for a running shoe manufacturer. I have also struggled with lots of running-related injuries in my late teens and twenties, followed by some pretty severe back issues. These circumstances have all led to my over-examination of footwear and its impacts on comfort and health. There are many factors that ought to drive a thoughtful selection of footwear, but I'll offer my thoughts on what I think are the three key ones to me: biomechanics, cushioning, and structure. What I have barfed up below is pretty long, and if you'd rather not wade through it, here are my main thoughts: I recommend a boot like a Blundstone (or similar pull-on style) sized to accommodate 1) your feet and 2) an insert/insole to increase the cushioning or biomechanical support (whichever your foot and body type likely needs more). It may also help to have a high half-stool kind of thing you can half-sit, half-lean on to take a little weight off your feet every so often. Biomechanics: one thing I learned from the shoe gig was that the vast majority of shoes, unless they are specially constructed for an individual, do not actually support the arch. The little foamy insert that come in lots of shoes is essentially useless beyond keeping your foot away from interior stitching (if you can crush it between your fingers it is doing nothing for you under body weight, or body weight magnified by forces exerted when in motion). The vast majority of footwear is effectively flat on the interior. Some athletic shoes have different densities of foam and whatnot to slow or alter the inward rolling motion that the majority of peoples' feet naturally make (pronation) after striking the outside of the heel during walking and running. Pronation is essentially a natural process that to dissipates shock and enables efficient walking, jogging, and running on uneven natural surfaces with bare feet. Unfortunately modern environments do not resemble what our ancestors evolved to thrive in, and pronation can in fact cause some people problems. The more flexible one's arch, for example, the more likely one is to pronate to a degree that causes muscle, tendon, and ligament issues all along the kinetic chain from one's feet to one's neck. I fall into this category (I used to have high, rigid arches and then tore both my plantar fascia through a combination of overtraining, acute injuries, and stupidity). Now I wear inserts in lots of my shoes that keep my arches from collapsing completely. Specifically I wear a brand called Superfeet, but I have tried everything from multiple different expensive prescription orthotics to other commercially-available systems. Note that my inserts are meant to address the motion of my foot, and are made of a stiff plastic covered with a thin foam to position the insert properly in the shoe. What works for one person all depends on one's personal physiology and feet. Someone with high, rigid arches is not likely to over-pronate and is therefore not necessarily going to benefit from the kind of inserts I use in my shoes. However, their foot type is more prone to pain and injuries from shock/impact on hard surfaces. This leads me to my second key consideration: cushioning. Like I said before, pronation aides in dissipating shock. Human beings used to be lighter, shoeless, and on the move constantly on loamy or grassy surfaces. If one looks at less industrialized people who aren't on hard, uniform surfaces like industrialized peoples you are unlikely to find flat arches among them. However, if you take the "archetypal" high arched person and put them on a concrete floor they are going to be prone to pain and injury because that rigid arch transfers the energy of the impacts of their footfalls straight up their legs into their spine. A person with that arch type would benefit from extra cushioning from shoe and/or insert that makes up for the rigidity of their foot. A person with flat or middle of the road feet also needs to consider cushioning for comfort while also considering biomechanical needs that may not apply to the high arched person. Finally, there's the structure of the shoe/boot/whatever. This is likely driven by environmental factors (steel toed boots, for example) but might also speak to other needs of the wearer. If one wears an ankle brace, this may dictate that a low cuffed shoe be worn, or a boot fitted such that the brace could be worn inside it. My father broke both of his ankles multiple times between playing college football, logging, and building houses. He needed to wear a high boot laced tightly to basically keep himself together. To me, a boot makes the most sense in a shop if one is working with larger pieces of lumber. I've dropped a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood on my foot wearing running shoes and it wasn't pretty. Thus, I recommend a boot like a Blundstone (or similar pull-on style) sized to accommodate 1) your feet and 2) an insert/insole to increase the cushioning or biomechanical support (whichever your foot and body type likely needs more). It may also help to have a high half-stool kind of thing you can half-sit, half-lean on to take a little weight off your feet every so often.
  16. I read you loud and clear. I do agree wood glue would probably be fine. I bolded your items that I am applying to my situation (I hadn't thought of the last one, but that is a great idea!). I am thinking that the imperfect interface between the "leg box" pieces and interior core will require actual structural filling. Plus, the long open time will give me more time to fiddle with the fit/fix clamp induced slippage vs racing against the clock. I will still practice my glue up routine multiple times before showtime of course.
  17. Oh I hear you. To be honest, I wanted to test myself and my tool setups a bit since I have been away from furniture projects for a couple years. I have some of Bob Lang's Craftsman furniture books and enjoy all the joinery drawings in them. When I saw the Stickley joinery with the little corners it looked like something to try to gauge where I am at the moment. Hindsight being what it is, I should have just used my domino or splines!
  18. Wow, thank you everyone. This thread shows a wealth of information and experience. My first leg's worth of pieces were only fair to middling off the tablesaw, and are now approaching okay after an hour's work fiddling by hand. We'll be putting that leg against the wall. I cut the profiles for this particular leg the other day and my setup wasn't great, I think. It looks like my riving knife needs to be tweaked. That said, I just finished cutting the rest of the profiles into my leg pieces and they are pretty good. The legs go together squarely and the miters aren't very gappy along any corner, but there are some gaps. I think I can improve them with a little shoulder plane work. This is all to say that structural gap filling is a necessity in this glue-up. I will probably also burnish the corners with my card scraper burnisher, too. This is my first furniture project in a couple years so I'm trying to avoid digging new holes for myself while chasing perfection. @drzaius I felt silly about considering the 5-minute stuff after I posted my original question. I'd probably be more likely to adhere the workpieces to my bench than get the joints together properly. @wtnhighlander I would prefer to use wood glue here, but this is a special situation for me. The legs have four miters and an interior core. Despite my best efforts I'm going to need to rely on the epoxy to make up for my shoddy joinery @Coop what you say makes sense. I think I am going to try @Don Z.'s suggestion of one of the thicker products. @Don Z. I've seen people use Thixo and similar on youtube etc. but I didn't know where to place it in my consideration set. Your description sold me! I had originally thought to use the tape-and-roll to keep the pieces in position during glue up. I think I am going to use the tape-and-roll + a thick epoxy product like Thixo a shot.
  19. Hi folks - I am building a Stickley-inspired entry bench for some family friends. I have not finished tuning the joinery for my quadralinear legs, but I anticipate some minor gaps here and there. Epoxy was already in my plans for gluing up the legs, and I think I have enough J-B Weld ClearWeld Pro on hand to glue the legs and their cores together. However, I worry that the 5 min set time on the material I have could be unforgiving. I could let me shop get colder than 40 degrees F and that could give me a little more (and less pleasant) working time. All of this is to say I believe I should spend the money to get a quart or two of one of the commonly available two part epoxies. If anyone has a recommendation for/against a specific product I would love to hear it. I am currently looking at buying System 3 resin and their #2 (medium/30 min pot life/55 degree application temp) hardener. Their #1 can handle temps as low as 35 deg F but only has a 15 minute pot life. The #3 requires 75 degrees(!) but has an hour long pot life. I know so little about these adhesives that I don't know where to start to compare System 3 to West Systems or the other ones. Thanks for any advice anyone can give. p.s Here are some snapshots from Bob Lang's Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture in which I found the joinery technique I'm using for the legs. My leg pieces are a hair shy of 2 inches wide so this technique has made for some exciting work with pushblocks.
  20. That's pretty remarkable. One of his latest videos showing his old tool layout in his new space (went from 2 car garage-ish space to three car garage) showed how much more room for activities he has now!
  21. I have not used this particular line from GF, but they have products called "Exterior 450" that look like they'd fit the bill for you. There's both a stain and compatible outdoor topcoat with UV inhibitors. Like a lot of GF products they're water based. My guess is these products (properly applied of course) will make your doors look great for a long time, but the brutal sun makes a permanent fix unreasonable to expect. Stain: https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-professional/exterior-topcoats-stains-oils/exterior-450-water-based-wood-stain Topcoat: https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-professional/exterior-topcoats-stains-oils/exterior-450-water-based-topcoat I personally would like to try this combination on a project this spring/summer. I think were you to use a spar varathane or spar varnish you'd likely end up with a bit of color change over stain (which may be fine). Minimally I would try an outdoor rated stain under it like the GF one noted.
  22. He really had a "ten pounds of...stuff in a five pound bag" kind of approach to his last shop. It was a daylight basement packed to the gills with tools. My recollection is that he'd have had to completely redo his shop layout to get a better DC run and that wasn't sufficiently important to him to warrant the effort.
  23. I have an i-Box too (damned youtube demos got me!) and it has a lot of limitations. It is great for banging out a lot of small boxes or drawers but has real limitations when it comes to working with thicker stock or larger workpieces.
  24. Definitely want to use PPE if you're doing that kind of work.