VizslaDad

Members
  • Content Count

    87
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by VizslaDad

  1. I have the 1.75hp Sawstop contractor saw, and I have definitely bogged it down on harder boards and/or deep cuts. I would opt for more horsepower especially if getting the electrical situated for it is not an insurmountable task.
  2. I paid an electrician to wire and energize my new 60amp panel in the shop/garage. He tied it into my main panel. Apparently, technically, the panel in the shop/garage is not a sub panel. It has its own ground rod etc. @wtnhighlander @collinb I am on track to insulate, wire, and otherwise spruce up my detached garage for under $7k...and then I will be 100% able to focus my spare time on woodworking for the first time in over two years. Nearly $5k of that $7k is just in the spray foam and electrical panel installations. If I lived in an area that was less persnickety about development I might be able to get away with a cheap rebuild. Unfortunately, given my town's requirements there isn't a practical way for me to avoid paying an architect, acquiring full permits, and contracting out a full rebuild. I even brought in a contractor my wife and I have used for two full-gut remodels in Cleveland to assess the situation, and he brought his concrete guy to check out the existing garage's slab and foundation. Long story short, it would have been a miracle to build a new garage that matched the aesthetics of our home and met local requirements for anything less than $35k...scratch I do not have!
  3. Well I was going to build a whole separate building from scratch, and was excited to do so, so this is only a minor PITA. The challenge now will be to do just enough wiring to get started and have a little room to grow but not so much I have to rip it all apart and redo it when the inevitable shop reconfigurations occur. Yup. Never really stopped, just had little of consequence to share. I am excited to be off and running now though.
  4. Big update! I have opted to remodel my detached garage vs. building a standalone dedicated shop building. The mandated setbacks and peculiarities of my yard would make building the standalone shop problematic. This realization was a little bit of a bummer, but the CEO has been supportive of my efforts to shore up the detached garage. Here's where I am now: Electrical I needed to improve the power supply. The garage had one circuit run out to it from the main panel when we bought the place. This was clearly not going to cut it, so I hired an electrician to install a 60amp panel. Unfortunately, it did not work out logistically for me to rent a trencher, so I cut a trench for conduit from my house to the garage (close to 50'). Suffice as to say this was fairly unpleasant due to our lovely clay soils. I very literally was cutting and lifting out bricks of clay with a mattock, which then had to be knocked off the blade by hand each time. It took me three days (before work, after work time) to cut the trench. I made sure to lay a length of conduit in the trench for an ethernet cable. I work from home 4/5 of the time, as does my wife. My work typically requires me to be video conferences, and I tend to project my voice in those situations much to my wife's chagrin. Thus there is a possibility that I will set up my office out in the shop when it's put together, and our wifi as-is probably wouldn't work. My current home office is adjacent to the spot the electrical service leaves the house and travels to the garage. It will be straightforward to cut a hole in the exterior wall, run the ethernet cable, and install a jack with another line to our router inside the office. Next steps re: the electrical will be to surface mount EMT conduit and wire a few circuits. This will occur after I've finished insulating and covering the walls (see below). None of my tools are wired for 220v yet so I'm only going to run 20amp 110v circuits and receptacles for the time being. Building Envelope I wanted to make sure I didn't waste time and money insulating and air-sealing the space (or even worse, create a problem that shortens the building's remaining life vs. lengthening it). I spent a good amount of time on https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com and Finehomebuilding.com, asked some questions, and received excellent answers specific to the particulars of my building. I even wrote into the Fine Homebuilding podcast and they discussed my project in episode 192: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2019/08/09/podcast-192-garage-workshop-conversion-contractor-web-marketing-and-saying-no-to-clients The approach I settled on considering cost control is paramount and the fact that I have a low-sloped/flat roof is to: 1. air seal with installed closed cell spray foam insulation 2. augment with fluffy insulation (fiberglass, as mineral wool would blow my budget to pieces) 3. hang 1/2" 4-ply sheathing plywood on the walls and 7/16 osb on the ceiling 4. improve the seal around the garage door and man doors Step 1 is complete: I am looking forward to making a bunch of sawdust and getting that plywood and osb in place. Fingers crossed that work, family, and health all align to enable me to button this up before the snow flies!
  5. I think this was my favorite quote: Some people call this space a studio. There is artistry...but it's a shop. It's noisy. It's physical. Machines play a big role. It's not a factory where parts move from station to station manned by operators. Parts do move from station to station, but they are accompanied by crafts men and women whose hands, eyes, and hearts are engaged in the steps and invested in the outcome.
  6. https://garyweeks.com/company/our-shop/custom-machines/ I've recently been fascinated by shop-made machinery. Specifically I would like to build a stroke sander one day. Philip Morely has a cool one in his small shop, and various FWW authors throughout the years have had the odd gem. Gary Weeks' shop has some seriously cool shop-made machines though! I thought folks would enjoy seeing them if they hadn't already. His "straight line machine" (edge jointer using a shaper spindle) is also interesting.
  7. @drzaius & @AJ_Engineer oh, good point. I also worry that the need for stairs down to a lower level will impact my working floor space, and my original approximate plan was pushing the CEO's acceptable tolerance for eating up backyard outdoor space.
  8. This is cool! I think my wife would love something like this. I am going to see how much of a PITA it'd be to put the rack on hinges so it wouldn't block the window 100% of the time (which is something she probably wouldn't want).
  9. I will be the umpteenth vote for dados on this one. Plus your little divider guys will act like cleats to keep the top flat. Of course if you're worried about that at all, I do wonder if sliding dovetails wouldn't have more mechanical strength from a cleat standpoint. I'm not sure though.
  10. All laughter aside, I am now reconsidering my desire to keep the shop floor level with the garage. So long as I can safely keep surface moisture at bay I think I'm going to try to shoot for steps down to the shop level to maximize the height. Heck, I've dealt with mechanically lifting stuff in my prior shops just fine.
  11. Hey @RJS - great question. The swale definitely cuts the back yard in half, to a point where it drops sharply into a ravine. This will make for a number of nice launching point for a zip line and some future mountain bike/ski trails. The CEO has also requested a series of bridges in the future...hopefully those will help justify a new chainsaw purchase. The driveway/parking area in front of the garage and house is slightly elevated from the area between the house and garage. There is one stone step down to a sloped path that leads into the eastern part of the back yard. The breezeway will eliminate the possibility for anything larger than a riding lawnmower to get back there, though for practical purposes that is not a problem. The setback from my property line to the garage is only 10-15 feet, and mostly tree-lined. "E Yard" in my drawing below is a fairly confined area due to the deep swale and ravines. EMS could get to that yard through my neighbors property in the event of a catastrophe. We have a little bridge by the deck across the swale, and a person can cross the swale itself (albeit with zero expectations of staying clean and dry) when it's not super nasty outside.
  12. I followed your shop build closely, and it definitely looks like yours is a great living proof example!
  13. CEO and I are set on the breezeway (house does not have a mudroom but we need one, and she likes the look we have in mind). Plus the end of the house closest to the garage contains our living room and master bedroom. Not only would would this create much more complex surgery to the house proper than I care to get into myself, but I would be hard pressed to sufficiently abate noise and vibration to an acceptable level. I do appreciate the thoughts though!
  14. Lots of votes for the front-facing gable! I will let the CEO know. I definitely agree on the steeper pitch. It's definitely narrow (the garage was built in the 20s). It may be more complicated and expensive to widen the garage, as I'd have to expand the existing foundation and slab. Plus we can already park my truck and my wife's car in the existing narrow garage, so selling the expansion (when she already likes how narrow it looks!) is likely a no-go. I wanted to back the breezeway off from the front line of part of the house to which it will attach, but to do so would require removing a gas fireplace in that room, and the kick-out on the side of the house that accommodates it. A long narrow breezeway was designed by request. I thought about that, but the CEO wants to minimize how much of our usable outdoor space adjacent to the house is sucked up by my shop. The spot immediately behind the garage is sort of a hidden pocket, hence her being ok with it turning into a shop. Plus the breezeway is a passage between the driveway + front yard to the backyard, which itself is split down the middle by a deep swale that runs into a ravine. The breezeway will be the only practical way to get from the front-left part of the house to the backyard, hence french doors on either side:
  15. I am embarrassed to admit I googled "bagel end" before I realized autocorrect probably corrupted "gable." If I do the straight gable end facing the street approach I will definitely go for a steeper pitch. Good call. The large section you mention is simply one large room on the ground floor and our master BR and bath on the second. They laid it out so that the street-facing wall on the second floor contains the closets (we have wonderful big windows looking out back at the woods though). However, the CEO (I have totally adopted this moniker for my wife - thanks, @Woodenskye) has said she'd like a walk-in closet. A shed dormer on the road-facing side could make that all feasible! The car has a roof rack and ski trays on it.
  16. The garage is old and rough around the edges but still functional (for an uninsulated, unsealed box with dodgey doors). I worry that a full tear-down will not be compatible with the CEO's wishes, as she is attached to the idea of rehabbing what may be basically functional vs. fully replacing it. Personally, I am also really looking forward to doing the work, and I think it will be less practically feasible for me to do it all if it's a full rebuild vs. an in-depth remodel and addition. I also worry that I would potentially need to fully rip and replace the existing garage slab, foundation, etc etc. The prices you mentioned jive with what I have seen around here thus far. I have considered going the post-frame route, and if it is allowed for the shop extension I may do that. @Tpt life Good idea! Those little windows were just to break up the plane in the drawing. The garage faces north anyway.
  17. I have considered it, and doing so is not out of the question. Cost control is top of mind, but I like your idea of using one just for the outside elevations. Thank you! RE: your comment about the extra room going to the CEO, let's just say I have essentially traded most of my say in decor and landscaping for the entirety of the house and property in exchange for the shop. She has complained that my conference calls are too loud, though, so maybe the prospect of my putting my office outside the house proper would be a good bargaining chip. @Minnesota Steve @Chestnut I generally agree with you guys on this. The majority of houses and garages on our road don't have gable ends facing the road for whatever reason. The CEO is also adamant about the garage roofline matching that of the house, despite the structure being oriented perpendicular to the house. More doodles: Two story garage, saltbox roof up front, little monopitch for shop out back. I'd probably need to use rafters to inexpensively get an appropriate ceiling height...CEO will not want the garage roof level with the house. I just cranked out a 4:12 roof straight along the structure, which is probably not the ideal pitch or how it'd actually relate to the breezeway. It would be much less expensive, and much less complex, to do something like this, though. All of your comments are much appreciated!
  18. The CEO is worried about the garage + shop looking too massive. That said, a bonus room would be nice. I agree the little pop up in front looks funky; the intent is to hide the gable end of the garage+shop roof. The house does not have any gable ends facing the street, and the BD here is super picky about rooflines. I don’t know if they will care in this case though. The house itself has a, shall we say, interesting roof. (View from street, garage closeup, rear view) Great call on the coffee and donuts!
  19. There’s also a school out in Grass Valley that offers a wide array of classes. There is lots of hands on instruction near you, @Valleyslim. I second @RichardA‘s advice, too!
  20. My little drawings don’t make it clear but I am planning on 9’ ceilings. My last shop was right at 8’ and it was a pita!
  21. Maybe. There is a garage floor drain that just shoots out maybe 20” from grade at the back of the garage. I have to reroute that beneath the slab anyway, I assume. I was just thinking that keeping the floor level with the garage would be convenient. That extra height could make it feasible to put a loft office and more storage in the shop, but I would have to contend with our clay soils and highish water table.
  22. My property goes a few acres back, and per my (admittedly naive) reading of the rules for our town, I think I should be okay. My neighbors have gone through the rigamarole of doing an addition here and said the building department was great in terms of thorough and candid answers to their questions (hopefully the BD won't hate me by the time spring is here ). I have to dig the footings below the frost line (32" in our area), and given the grade of the property that will render a foundation wall that's approximately 7' high. I don't know how to build a suspended concrete floor, so my plan was to build a wooden framed floor level with my garage floor. The slab poured in my shop's "basement" will be insulated. I have thought about running floor heat (there's a gas line right by the garage, too) but will definitely turn to pros for that aspect. That tree is coming down, and will turn into something nice for the house someday. Thanks for your notes!
  23. I second the recommendation re: woodcraft classes. Here's a list relevant to your location: https://www.woodcraft.com/stores/sacramento/classes I believe UC Davis continuing ed also has a beginner woodworking course.
  24. My wife, dog, cat, tools, and I moved to Ohio from Washington State in November. Our house was built in the 20s, with an addition sometime in the last thirty years. The detached two car garage appears to have been built at the same time as the house. My beautiful, intelligent, and incredibly thoughtful wife has given the thumbs-up to my building a shop addition to the garage (so long as I also build an enclosed breezeway between garage and house). Sounds pretty straight forward, right? Well, there are a few complicating factors I need to sort through, and hoped the fine WoodTalkers would weigh in with thoughts. If you read what follows and think I ought to proceed in a different direction, don't be shy! My current task is to get my general plan together so I can go to the building department and get the process started with them. I will be doing the bulk of the work myself once the weather allows me to begin in earnest this spring. The garage is approx. 18'W x 26'L. The roof slopes continuously front-to-back, leaving a floor to roof rafter height of ~7'4" at the rear. The structure is uninsulated, with 2x4 walls, plank sheathing, old asphalt shingles, and new roof. There's a beam supported by a lally column spanning the width of the structure approx. 2/3 of the way to the rear. Someone sandwiched more 2x8 laminations onto the original beam at some point in the last twenty years, for a total of five 2x8s bolted together to help hold up the roof rafters. There's a hokey little roof peak in the front of the garage to help its roofline blend with that of the house from a visual standpoint, despite the actual mono-pitch roof out back. What I would like to do is add an approximately 20' addition to the rear of the garage to serve as my shop space. I want the roofline of the structure to look appropriate relative to the house from the street. I think the way I can achieve this is to raise the front 8' or so of the garage and add a little saltbox roof to that section (the space itself will be used for storage). This would hide the continuous roofline for the remainder of the garage, extending onto the shop, that would be behind it. I would tear off the existing roof, eliminate the beam and lally column, and sister in 2x6 studs and new headers. I will air seal, insulate, and drywall the retrofitted garage. The new shop room will be built on a CMU foundation (matching the garage) behind the garage, and a simple breezeway would be built between house and garage (approx. 18'L). The garage and shop will likely be heated and cooled via ductless minisplit. I can have our hydronic baseboard extended to the breezeway due to proximity. My wife likes the saltbox style roof for the rear as well, even though I think a simple gable roof would be preferable since I am likely going to be cutting my own rafters vs. trusses as I could set a few over the course of several mornings vs coordinating a crew and crane (I work on Pacific Time, so I have a nice chunk of time every morning where I can do what I like before I have to fire up the laptop). What do you all think? How does this plan sound? Happy to answer any questions that you have. Thanks!