Nickhxc4life

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About Nickhxc4life

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  1. Thanks for the replies guys. I know it can be done as it’s been talked about a lot I just can’t wrao my head around how to hid the kerf. I haven’t modeled it yet but it will be a long sweeping curve. Wider stock cut curved will not get the job done.
  2. I may have misspoke....the rounded side of the deck won’t have rim joists it will have a fascia board more or less but you get the idea. If I butt the deck boards against it the kerf cuts will be exposed.
  3. Not sure if this belongs here but here it goes. I plan to build a floating deck this summer. There is a portion of it which will be rounded. In order to make it rounded, I will need to kerf cut the rim joist for the rounded section. How do I hide the kerf cuts in the rim joist without overlapping it with the deck boards?
  4. The only problem with extend the bump out to the front of the cabinets is that the left side of the fire place is already wider than the right (bump out side). Right now they’re about 7 inches difference in width. If I extend the bumpout they will be even further off.
  5. The upper part is fixed shelving. No doors so youd see it above the cabinet. I’m not worried about notching the bottom cabinet
  6. I hope I’m posting this in the right spot. I’m currently working on designing some built-ins for surrounding our downstairs fireplace. The lower cabinets will be 24” deep with maple plywood sides, back and top with solid maple doors and solid maple faceframe. The upper sections will be fixed shelving 12” deep. Sides will be maple plywood and it too will have solid maple wood trim to mimic the lower faceframe. My question is, how would you guys work around the bumpout shown in my picture? It is about 3” out from the wall and 4 1/2” deep. I’m not worried about the lower cabinets as it will be concealed within the cabinet but for the uppers can anyone think of a creative way to not make it so obvious? There will be built-ins on both sides for the fireplace so I’d like to make them as symmetrical as possible. My first thought would be to make the putter “faceframe” for the uppers 3 1/2 thick and call it a day but that adds a good bit of hardwood to both sides. Need options thanks for any input in advance
  7. And what is wrong with bench top options? This is a hobby. I don’t make things to sell at this point. I make things for fun.
  8. By no decent advice I meant that I didn’t ask people to reply with a lengthy post about how my budget is too low or how tools in that price range aren’t worth. I’d rather those people not post at all....not that complicated to understand.
  9. Well I figured everyone was going to tell me it can’t be done but perhaps I should just stick to my own research as no one has any decent input. Given my budget I’m looking at brands like craftsman and rigid. I’m not looking for expensive tools and I have no problem making jigs to help the tools work more accurately if needed. Disappointed that whenever someone has a post like this that everyone spends all their time saying what can’t be done instead of what CAN be done. So please don’t post of all you’re going to do is tell me my budget is too low. My budget is what it is
  10. Hey everyone, So I think I’ve advanced my skills far enough that I want to start working with rough sawn lumber to keep my costs down. I have $900 and would like to pick up a jointer, planer, and bandsaw. Please provide recommendations. I mostly build things for my house or friends and family and given my price range I’m not looking for anything top of the line. I’d prefer new as equipment from Craigslist etc. isn’t always reliable or requires an overhaul.
  11. Yeah probably not the best for a cutting board but the OP posted a picture of what looks like a chest or bench. The Epoxy may still hold it's own in a cutting board though since you wouldn't be routing all the way through the board there may not be quite as much movement around the epoxy.
  12. Holy crap.... I had my custom casement window glass replaced at my old house (not a standard size). The installer had to have the glass custom cut. Installed the it ended up costing me $135. rough dimensions were 2'x6' and being that it is a casement window it had 2 sheets of tempered glass. I'm curious if you mentioned to the glass company that you we're having trouble finding the glass size you need? That would instantly cause them to mark it up. I would call a couple other local glass shops.. Talk up the fact that you are a wood worker and that they could see repeat business. If they ask, tell them it's for a home project and don't mention that it's a commissioned piece but make sure it is tempered since it will be for retail use.
  13. With a "zig zag" that narrow you're not going so see much grain...why not just router the pattern you want about 1/4"-1/2" deep and fill it with a tinted epoxy? Sand flush and bingo pretty much the same affect...seems a lot more fool proof and cohesive than cutting out a thin strip to fill a void. You can make a cheap mdf pattern for your router to follow if needed.
  14. I'm actually fairly happy with the Kobalt for the price and the fact that I can fold it up and stash it when I need to use other tools (since my shop is small).. while I've never used a nice powermatic or sawstop I've figured out a way to get consistently good results with it. It takes a bit more time to setup for rip cuts as the fence doesn't always align square but with my incra miter gauge and shop built crosscut sled I've had no issues but I also tend to use my craftsman sliding miter saw for crosscuts. large sheet goods are a problem but I usually rip those down with a circular saw guide anyway. i still need to make a zero clearance insert for both ripping blade and dado stack. I've got various clamps from cheapo harbor freight to nice bessey clamps. I also have a hand plane but it's just a generic one that is only 3" long that I use to square things up occasionally. I would like to find a decent priced shoulder plane as I plan to work with mortise and tenon joints a fair bit in the near future and Marc has an awesome video on it's various uses. If anyone around Richmond Virginia needs a spare hand I would love to help out and learn from someone who works with wood professionally.
  15. Hello, has anyone had experience hiring a mobile saw mill to come out and mill some old wood on their property? The reason I ask is because their are some old oak and maple trees on my mother's property that would make excellent stock and possibly save me some cash. The guy I found charges 50/hr and uses a bandsaw mill on a trailer. Anyone have any experience with this kind of service or advice?