Nickhxc4life

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About Nickhxc4life

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  1. Nickhxc4life

    Built-ins working around structural column help

    The only problem with extend the bump out to the front of the cabinets is that the left side of the fire place is already wider than the right (bump out side). Right now they’re about 7 inches difference in width. If I extend the bumpout they will be even further off.
  2. Nickhxc4life

    Built-ins working around structural column help

    The upper part is fixed shelving. No doors so youd see it above the cabinet. I’m not worried about notching the bottom cabinet
  3. I hope I’m posting this in the right spot. I’m currently working on designing some built-ins for surrounding our downstairs fireplace. The lower cabinets will be 24” deep with maple plywood sides, back and top with solid maple doors and solid maple faceframe. The upper sections will be fixed shelving 12” deep. Sides will be maple plywood and it too will have solid maple wood trim to mimic the lower faceframe. My question is, how would you guys work around the bumpout shown in my picture? It is about 3” out from the wall and 4 1/2” deep. I’m not worried about the lower cabinets as it will be concealed within the cabinet but for the uppers can anyone think of a creative way to not make it so obvious? There will be built-ins on both sides for the fireplace so I’d like to make them as symmetrical as possible. My first thought would be to make the putter “faceframe” for the uppers 3 1/2 thick and call it a day but that adds a good bit of hardwood to both sides. Need options thanks for any input in advance
  4. Nickhxc4life

    Need jointer, planer, and bandsaw have $900

    And what is wrong with bench top options? This is a hobby. I don’t make things to sell at this point. I make things for fun.
  5. Nickhxc4life

    Need jointer, planer, and bandsaw have $900

    By no decent advice I meant that I didn’t ask people to reply with a lengthy post about how my budget is too low or how tools in that price range aren’t worth. I’d rather those people not post at all....not that complicated to understand.
  6. Nickhxc4life

    Need jointer, planer, and bandsaw have $900

    Well I figured everyone was going to tell me it can’t be done but perhaps I should just stick to my own research as no one has any decent input. Given my budget I’m looking at brands like craftsman and rigid. I’m not looking for expensive tools and I have no problem making jigs to help the tools work more accurately if needed. Disappointed that whenever someone has a post like this that everyone spends all their time saying what can’t be done instead of what CAN be done. So please don’t post of all you’re going to do is tell me my budget is too low. My budget is what it is
  7. Hey everyone, So I think I’ve advanced my skills far enough that I want to start working with rough sawn lumber to keep my costs down. I have $900 and would like to pick up a jointer, planer, and bandsaw. Please provide recommendations. I mostly build things for my house or friends and family and given my price range I’m not looking for anything top of the line. I’d prefer new as equipment from Craigslist etc. isn’t always reliable or requires an overhaul.
  8. Nickhxc4life

    What is this technique called?

    Yeah probably not the best for a cutting board but the OP posted a picture of what looks like a chest or bench. The Epoxy may still hold it's own in a cutting board though since you wouldn't be routing all the way through the board there may not be quite as much movement around the epoxy.
  9. Nickhxc4life

    I got the job

    Holy crap.... I had my custom casement window glass replaced at my old house (not a standard size). The installer had to have the glass custom cut. Installed the it ended up costing me $135. rough dimensions were 2'x6' and being that it is a casement window it had 2 sheets of tempered glass. I'm curious if you mentioned to the glass company that you we're having trouble finding the glass size you need? That would instantly cause them to mark it up. I would call a couple other local glass shops.. Talk up the fact that you are a wood worker and that they could see repeat business. If they ask, tell them it's for a home project and don't mention that it's a commissioned piece but make sure it is tempered since it will be for retail use.
  10. Nickhxc4life

    What is this technique called?

    With a "zig zag" that narrow you're not going so see much grain...why not just router the pattern you want about 1/4"-1/2" deep and fill it with a tinted epoxy? Sand flush and bingo pretty much the same affect...seems a lot more fool proof and cohesive than cutting out a thin strip to fill a void. You can make a cheap mdf pattern for your router to follow if needed.
  11. Nickhxc4life

    Need advice on what I need to buy next

    I'm actually fairly happy with the Kobalt for the price and the fact that I can fold it up and stash it when I need to use other tools (since my shop is small).. while I've never used a nice powermatic or sawstop I've figured out a way to get consistently good results with it. It takes a bit more time to setup for rip cuts as the fence doesn't always align square but with my incra miter gauge and shop built crosscut sled I've had no issues but I also tend to use my craftsman sliding miter saw for crosscuts. large sheet goods are a problem but I usually rip those down with a circular saw guide anyway. i still need to make a zero clearance insert for both ripping blade and dado stack. I've got various clamps from cheapo harbor freight to nice bessey clamps. I also have a hand plane but it's just a generic one that is only 3" long that I use to square things up occasionally. I would like to find a decent priced shoulder plane as I plan to work with mortise and tenon joints a fair bit in the near future and Marc has an awesome video on it's various uses. If anyone around Richmond Virginia needs a spare hand I would love to help out and learn from someone who works with wood professionally.
  12. Nickhxc4life

    Mobile saw mill service?

    Hello, has anyone had experience hiring a mobile saw mill to come out and mill some old wood on their property? The reason I ask is because their are some old oak and maple trees on my mother's property that would make excellent stock and possibly save me some cash. The guy I found charges 50/hr and uses a bandsaw mill on a trailer. Anyone have any experience with this kind of service or advice?
  13. Nickhxc4life

    Need advice on what I need to buy next

    Thanks everyone. I'm still getting my feet wet and haven't taken the plunge to start working with more expensive woods. Also the only place right around me I can get rough-sawn stuff is Woodcraft and their prices are a bit high and the slection isn't all that great. There are a few mills about 45 min. from me that I may stop in to sometime to grab some stock. I've mostly been working with poplar as it's easy to find and cheap and I don't have to prep it. As for upcoming projects I'm planning to make 2 bedside tables for my wife and I, some cubbies for our mudroom, and possibly some outdoor chairs for our screened porch. Krtwood I agree with you about the upgrading and I tend to follow the "If it ain't broke don't fix it approach" with tools. I guess I was asking if anyone saw a glaring "weak link" in my current setup that would definitely need to go before moving on to more advanced and finer woodworking.
  14. Nickhxc4life

    Need advice on what I need to buy next

    Hello everyone. I'm new here and my wife and I just moved into a new house and I actually have my own 12x15 shop here which is a huge upgrade from my old shed where I had to pull everything out of the shed to use one tool. I know it's small but I'll be using lots of casters. I'd also like to preface my question by saying woodworking is strictly a hoppy for me at this point but would like to continue growing and learning and upgrading. Below is a list of what I currently have..what do you guys think I need to add or upgrade to have a well rounded shop. I'm not looking for top of the line equipment but I am looking for mid range tools that get the job done and last. Shopsmith Mark IV (No extra add ons just the basic saw, drill press, lathe, and bandsaw setup) Rigid fuego jigsaw Kobalt 15amp table saw (the contractor one with the folding base) Craftsman 10" SINGLE BEVEL SLIDING COMPOUND MITER SAW (21237) Skil fix based router Blue hawk adjustable router table and router (It works) Incra V27 miter gauge Craftsman circular saw Various cordless drills and impact drivers Kreg pocket hold jig Bosh 5" random orbital adjustable speed sander Rigid 12gal shop vac I have plenty of forestner, wood and metal bits. Wood river 5 piece chisel set All my blades are freud (have various blades) Shop made assembly table/workbench Shop made corsscut sled Thanks for any advice.
  15. Nickhxc4life

    Need input on oak countertop

    Thanks everyone, I've got some scraps from where I cut it to fit so I will try some samples on those. Think I may end up using waterlox.