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JohnG last won the day on July 21

JohnG had the most liked content!

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About JohnG

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    Journeyman Poster

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    Furniture, pen/bowl turning, shop fixtures, jigs

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  1. Because that’s how SCMSs are “supposed” to be used. From festool kapex manual, but all others say almost the exact same thing- “For slide action cutting, first PULL sawhead assembly away from the fence, until blade clears the workpiece or to its maximum extension if blade cannot clear the workpiece. Make certain the clamp does not interfere with the guard and head assembly. Second, turn saw “ON” and lower the saw to the table. Then PUSH saw through the workpiece. Release the switch and wait for the blade to completely stop before raising the head assembly and removing the workpiece. Never “pullcut” since blade may climb the workpiece causing KICKBACK.” Regardless of personal views on safety and kickback probability, this is how SCMS operation is taught, and is also why some believe RASs are inherently too dangerous. Interesting though, with so many people complaining about dust collection on miter saws and the surge in popularity of old DeWalt RASs, you’d think more people would be talking about this.
  2. It would be a good idea to stain the panels before glue up. You may want to go ahead and put your topcoat on the panels before glue up as well. If you don’t stain the panels ahead of time, you run the risk of having a bit of the unstained edges show during the dry season. In addition to the wood movement issue, it’s generally easier to apply your stain and finish when the panel is a separate piece.
  3. I may put down one more very thin coat after the doors are assembled, but I wanted to at least get a couple coats on before assembly. I used a piece of brown paper bag to get the nibs off, and really liked that method. I used to use 1000 grit, but the paper bag worked really well. Gluing up the doors today. Doing one at a time so I can clamp it to the case. It seems to naturally match up pretty well, but I figured it couldn’t hurt to do it this way.
  4. I have both the mk i and mk ii. I haven’t used the mk i since I got the newer one. The angle finder it comes with doesn’t have a long enough reference surface to be quickly and easily repeatable, the homemade angle reference like @Tom King has would be far better than the one it comes with. It has nothing to keep the blade square to the jig, and I found it very fiddly to get the blade square, the screw tight, and keep the angle I want. It works just as well once you have it all set but since sharpening already feels like an inconvenience, I’d rather use a jig that I can quickly and easily set. I don’t really care if I get a slightly skewed micro bevel. I haven’t noticed any difference between that and the chisels I have only the primary bevel on.
  5. I now have two coats of ARS satin on the door panels and interior of the cabinet. Pic is just after the first coat was applied, but you get the idea.
  6. This is roughly the process I use with Arm R Seal and have always had good results. I finished my desk top (roughly 7’x3’) with ARS Satin. I think I added a bit of mineral spirits to the ARS (in a separate cup) and applied 4 thin coats. Coming up on 2 years and it doesn’t show any signs of wear. Plates, cups, mugs, etc have been left on it and slid around on it. My toddler loves to flip my keyboard around, and plays with all sorts of toys on it.
  7. Thanks fellas! I saw that board in the stack at the lumber yard and knew I needed to buy it! I saw drawer fronts or door panels in its future. I feel like I've reached a new level of woodworking with this project. It's not really difficult or special, but I've expanded my skill set (dovetails, veneering to be done) and everything has gone surprisingly smoothly. I haven't really had any of the dumb mistakes or oversights that I usually have (I hope I'm not speaking too soon here...) It has just been a fun and satisfying build. Thanks for your support and encouragement, and for following along thus far.
  8. Door panels cut to final size and sanded to 220, dominos cut in rails and stiles. Dry fit without dominos, with a bit of mineral spirits on it. It has been really hot the last couple weeks so I haven’t been spending too much consecutive time in the shop.
  9. There certainly is a difference, but personal needs, preferences, and priorities determine whether the difference is worth the extra cost.
  10. It’s unfortunate that the contractor didn’t know or didn’t warn you about the splotchy nature of maple. How did the contractor respond to you being disappointed in the results?
  11. After rough sanding the dovetails flush, the gaps don’t look as bad. I filled a couple of them with slivers of cherry, but left the others. I also cut the rails and stiles to final dimension and cut the grooves for the door panels. I picked out stock for the door panels and resawed them on the table saw and then planed down to ~1/4”. I left them long so that I can pick section I want for the panels. I’ll use dominos on the door assemblies and glue up clamped to the case for alignment. Afterward I’ll plane flush and set the gap. Then on to the drawers.
  12. There are many people in the US willing to pay thousands for a piece of furniture, and many furniture makers in the US that can make furniture worth thousands. Look at Darrell Peart or Owen Suter. I know there are many others, but these were the first ones that came to mind that can sell pieces for thousands (and that are truly worth thousands).
  13. I hadn’t heard of cyanide in cherry so I did a quick search. The leaves, twigs, and bark of cherry contains the cyanogenic glycosides which convert to hydrogen cyanide when ingested. The risk is mainly to livestock when there is a downed cherry tree nearby, as wilted leaves contain more of the glycosides than fresh leaves. I didn’t find anything that suggests that the heart or sap wood contains them. Cherry is popular for cutting boards and spoon carving, so I think the problem would be well known if it were an issue. Looking forward to see what you make!
  14. Treesner and wtn’s suggestions are good. How about recessed screws through the front and a couple plugs? I’m guessing this is something you are wanting to make and sell to people, so you want it to be foolproof for the customer and easy/low cost for you. If that’s the case, I’d personally go with recessed screws and plugs (can buy the plugs with rounded tops, available in several species, cheap), or hardware similar to what Treesner posted. Not sure the cost of that hardware, or how much slop is in it, but it would be easy for Average Joe or Jane to install.
  15. I always enjoy looking at your chair builds! Fantastic work! What is the comfort level of these chairs? I've sat in many wooden rockers, some are very comfortable some are very uncomfortable. I'm not sure what exactly makes the difference (maybe it is many small things).