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Everything posted by JohnG

  1. It’s a scam with many low quality, incomplete, and/or stolen plans.
  2. JohnG


    I think the nature of your operations will be fairly demanding in any software, so a computer upgrade might be worthwhile.
  3. Good to hear your recovery is going well. I’ve also always wanted to take a proper class. If I got a similar diagnosis my first moves would also be to take one. I agree that we need pics!
  4. How can your doc evaluate your health without asking questions and checking your systems?
  5. Thanks @Bmac, very helpful! Watching your hank chair progress has made me want to buy the project, partly for the template info. I like how he (and a few others) build clamping surfaces into their templates when there are strange angles. A while back I made Marc’s Kids Kitchen Step Stool (not-a-kitchen-helper) for my daughter, and since have had many family/parent friends inquire about me making one for them. It’s a pretty simple build but I thought templates could really speed up the process of selecting stock to reduce waste and for cutting the curves. Maybe the best way to do this would be a story stick or poster board templates for laying out and rough cutting the parts, and then 1/2” MDF or ply templates for routing the curves. I am also interested in making chairs in the future, and can see how they would be helpful there. Especially when multiple will be made, but not necessarily all at once.
  6. This is coming along very nicely! It’s making this guild project very tempting to me!
  7. Do many of you make templates or storysticks for the projects you think you plan to build again in the future? Obviously some types of projects don’t make sense to use templates on, so for the sake of this post we will focus on applications where it is suitable. Is 1/2” MDF the preferred material for templates? If you have similar profile pieces but with different joinery, do you prefer to make separate template pieces for each? Or make one template piece and have markings for both sets of joinery? Any other tips or thoughts on template making? (If you know of past threads on this, feel free to point me to them. I did a quick search but didn’t find general discussion on the topic.)
  8. JohnG


    I don’t know your situation, but if you qualify for the student/faculty edition it is only $150 per year. I had a chance to play with it a bit years ago, but didn’t have a chance to really see all it was capable of. If you are trying to find something better for your bowls, I’m not sure any software can handle those designs!
  9. I don’t see a 3.5hp router on their website but the 3.25hp router motor has a 1 year warranty. I’d contact Bora.
  10. To make it worse, I started this during my daughter’s nap. Once I had it clamped in place for one of the holes, my daughter woke up and I had to run back into the house to meet her, so I had to leave it there unattended for about half an hour!
  11. Another stressful step done- laying out and drilling holes for the tuners. Layout would have been easy if I had made a template before rounding the edges of the headstock or if I took a few minutes to draw it in CAD, but what fun would that be? The tuner pegs are 6mm and the bushings are something like 8.7mm. The pegs are not centered on the tuner, and there are left/right tuners so you do have to pay attention drilling and installing. I used a compass for most of the layout. I wanted the tuners to follow the curve of the headstock and be evenly spaced along the length of it. You may be able to see some of my layout lines here. Nothing about this gives the warm and fuzzies. The 6mm drill bit hole was too snug for the pegs, I probably should have used the 6.5mm bit. I used a reamer to open them up a bit. Then used a special reamer bit to counterbore for the bushings. Ended up with a bit of tearout, but most of it will be covered by the bushings. Glad that’s over!
  12. Give it all away. I’ll PM you my address. You can ship it to me and I’ll handle it for you
  13. For Bill Hylton: Illustrated Cabinet Making I will add that this book contains much more info than just cabinet making. It includes information on many types of furniture- kitchen cabinets, tables, bookcases, desks, beds, etc. It gives designs, dimensions, exploded drawings, and assembly info. It also includes ergonomic standards for the variety of furniture it covers, which is one of the main reasons I bought the book.
  14. I wouldn’t use it in place of WS for filling voids on show faces. You probably can get a nice finish from it (you certainly can with the thinner versions, and that is a popular finish for pen turning), but I’ve never really tried it. With CA glue you run the risk of the top layer drying and forming a seal over the deeper glue, which will take forever to cure. In my experience this risk is especially high when using activator after applying the glue. To be honest, I have mostly used the thick CA just to say I used it since I bought a bottle. Thin and Medium has covered all of my actual needs.
  15. Medium is what I use most often. It’s good for the tape trick, gluing small chips back in place, and temporarily holding pieces in place (like when building jigs) Thin can be VERY thin, and I’ve had it soak down into the grain before I could get the other piece into place. It’s good for flooding down into a tight crack or around a piece that is already in place. I rarely use thick. Sometimes used for filling little voids that won’t be seen and don’t actually need to be filled.
  16. Not always, depends on the eyes looking at it. I made a step stool for my daughter that “looked right” but flips over if she stands on the edge. Agreed, definitely want the legs to be offset inward, probably not even in the same plane as the table edge. the Illustrated Cabinetmaking book recommends 14-18” knee room to allow seating on the ends. This book has a lot of good info on ergonomics for a variety of furniture.
  17. Good point, I forgot OP is in Australia. I’ve also never heard of storing CA cold. Mine stay in my unconditioned garage during the summer and often sees 90+ F. I do take all of my finished and adhesives into the house in the winter, but maybe the CA would be fine to leave out. I occasionally have to peel some glue off the nozzle, but that’s about it.
  18. I’ve had good luck with the Stick Fast brand CA glued and activator sold at Woodcraft and Rockler. I’ve had one bottle for a couple years and it hasn’t gone bad or dried up. With the thin, medium, thick, and activator I haven’t seen a need for anything else.
  19. Thanks! Putting the oil on the cedar soundboard really brought out a lot of subtle figure. Of course the back is looking pretty good too! I was very fortunate to end up with the materials I did for this project, and it really reinforces how much grain selection can impact the final product.
  20. While it certainly doesn’t live up to the quality of Chestnut’s current work, everyone has to start somewhere. And we know it isn’t his because it isn’t cherry
  21. Glued the bridge into place. The placement is critical to ensure that it stays in tune as you go up (down) the frets. Time will tell if I got it right. There is also a screw under the abalone dot. It goes through the soundboard, reinforcing block, and into the tone bar. I may do another coat of finish on the body, there are a couple spots that could be improved.
  22. You could always polish the knobs or sand/brush the hinges, as long as they are solid brass or the plating is thick enough.
  23. Next step is to start making sawdust! (Assuming you both already know how to safely operate all of the tools- if not, start with that. Beware of YouTube videos, some show good safety practices and some show awful ones.) What additional tools you need will depend on what you want to make and how you like to work. Start some projects and then you will find out what you actually need. I’ll let others weigh in on the table saws.
  24. You got it! At least that’s how they do it in the link you posted.