JohnG

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Everything posted by JohnG

  1. JohnG

    Just bought a little lathe...

    Fixed that for you.
  2. JohnG

    Cherry Wall Cabinet

    This is a project I’ve been loosely thinking about for a while, and am ready to get moving on it. The idea is a small(ish) wall cabinet to keep my main camera and most often used lenses and accessories in. I have sketched out a few iterations and think I have landed on a design I like. Instead of making a full model in Sketchup/F360, I’m just doing paper design for this project. I sketched out some small rough ideas, a la Mike P., then used my favorite one to draw a full size sketch. It still leaves a lot to the imagination. Two doors open to reveal 3 shelves. Below the bottom shelf will be two small drawers for small items like batteries and SD cards. As the title suggests, this will be made from Cherry. I’m wanting to do dovetail construction, but my lazy/cautious side is tempted to do box joints which I’m more comfortable with. I mention this to try to pressure myself into doing the dovetails. I’m considering making one or both of the top shelves adjustable, but am not set on that. As always, thoughts and feedback are welcome!
  3. JohnG

    Cherry Wall Cabinet

    I have the parts milled to rough size and thickness. I’m going with 5/8” thickness for the case. Dovetail practice really hasn’t happened yet, unfortunately. I started one last night but was too tired so it got scrapped.
  4. JohnG

    Style References

    Same here. I stopped using ebay years ago when it turned into a giant burning trash heap of counterfits, scam listings, and mediocre pricing and service. A few of my friends say it has gotten better, but without having consistently lower or even pricing with Amazon, I don't bother. Amazon has its own issues, but I have had much better experiences with them than ebay. Similar to what Tom was saying about ebay, on Amazon you can almost always find lower prices than the first one that shows up.
  5. JohnG

    Just bought a little lathe...

    The Wood Whisperer Guild https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/bowl-turning/
  6. JohnG

    45 mitres

    I never trust the built-in angle gauges or stops on tools. Using the wixey gauge is better, but still may need some test cuts and tweaking. If you do a lot of miters, it would serve you well to make a shooting board or dedicated 45* sled for the table saw. I have the Incra 1000HD miter gauge and have been very pleased with its accuracy out of the box. I took a picture frame making class and they had a Festool Kapex to cut the miters. One student asked how to verify that the miter saw was set to exactly 45*. The instructor said something along the lines of, "It's Festool, you just know it's right. You have to use a square to check other brands, but not this one." Guess what? Everyone ended up with gaps in their miters.
  7. JohnG

    Just bought a little lathe...

    I’d guess that you need to sharpen your gouge. Changing your cutting angle or taking lighter cuts may help reduce the fuzz, but a sharp gouge is the best way. Lathe tools need very frequent sharpening, especially on larger diameter items. You get up into hundreds and thousands of linear feet of cutting surprisingly fast. With bowls, half of the cut will be end grain. Less than sharp tools will leave the end grain parts fuzzy. The TWWG bowl turning project has a lot of good info, tips, and techniques.
  8. JohnG

    Hello from Cape Cod

    Welcome! That looks like a very nice piece, please share your progress on the Sideboard or when it is completed! I spent many summers in Nantucket as a kid. I’d like to build one of those benches one day.
  9. JohnG

    Need help with picking plywood

    BB on left with many thin layers. Veneer ply on right with thicker center layers and very thin outer layers. Center layers are often softwood or sometimes MDF.
  10. JohnG

    Freight shipping cost estimate?

    As I recall you have made some of these chairs before, right? If you have access to any of them, take measurements of how large the box will need to be (including packaging material) and weigh it. Then you can call/go into UPS, FedEx, USPS, DHL, or whatever other shipping service and ask for a quote. Some have online calculators as well. If you get someone friendly, they may have suggestions on how to lower the shipping cost. Sometimes just slightly changing the box dimensions can put you in a different pricing tier. If you have any connections to someone that has a commercial shipping account, ask if they can ship it for you. The last company I worked for could ship stuff for 1/3-1/2 the normal rate.
  11. JohnG

    Just bought a little lathe...

    I sanded/filed my tool rest. It’s an old lathe and over the years has picked up some nicks and scratches that the gouge would occasionally snag on. I have a couple gouges that had particularly sharp corners along the shaft, so I slightly eased those as well. These fixed the issue and I did not need to wax them, I was worried about them getting caked with sawdust and making the problem worse.
  12. JohnG

    Cherry Wall Cabinet

    Starting material selection today. Door panels Rest of the parts Also prepped some 3” wide maple for practice dovetails. After I have made a bit of headway on that, I’ll try a couple wider ones. Edit: the lighting in my garage and iPhone make the cherry look kinda gross. Color is much better in person.
  13. JohnG

    Cherry Wall Cabinet

    That’s a good one! I’ve done a couple practice dovetails, but never in a real project. I do try to push myself to do something new on each project, and that was one of my goals for this. I’m committed now, regardless of the outcome. If need be, I’ll just fill the gaps with epoxy and then remake the cabinet when I get around to it. Good info! I hadn’t heard of this before. I’ll try to prep some boards and get to work on that this weekend as well.
  14. JohnG

    Cherry Wall Cabinet

    Yes, frame and panel overlay doors. Probably will do a small magnetic catch. Undecided about type of pulls, but likely turned on the lathe. Good point about carrying the case construction over to the drawers as well. My current thinking is to use a french cleat to hang it. I’m hoping to start processing the stock this weekend, but either way I’ll post pictures as it progresses.
  15. JohnG

    How to show the grain on pine

    Are you wiping off the excess stain after applying it? Here is General Finishes gel stain, I think Antique Walnut is the color, on pine. One coat wiped on generously with a rag, then excess wiped/buffed off after 10-15min. Color stain in your pic is much darker, but similar effect. Pictures of your attempts may give some additional insight into what you could do differently.
  16. JohnG

    DW735 Advanced Tune Up, anyone?

    One more thing to consider about the noise is that decibels are not a good measure of perceived loudness. Different frequency noises at the same decibel level can sound drastically louder or quieter to us. The NIOSH tests found that iOS apps were generally more accurate than android apps, due to hardware and OS differences.
  17. JohnG

    DW735 Advanced Tune Up, anyone?

    The exact readings may not be incredibly accurate, but the point of it was more to say there is a noticeable difference between straight and helical at no load. Cremona's results are likely more accurate and precise, and seem to support Jay's findings. I was going to reference his video and findings, but Jay's were easier to find at the time and he has the same machine as OP. NIOSH has done tests on sound meter apps and found that some do measure within ±2db, though no apps are certified.
  18. JohnG

    DW735 Advanced Tune Up, anyone?

    More decibels is louder. It’s a logarithmic scale, not linear. A 10db increase is roughly twice as intense. So a 6db decrease is definitely noticeable.
  19. JohnG

    DW735 Advanced Tune Up, anyone?

    Jay Bates did a video on switching his 735 from straight to Byrd head. His tests showed 69db for straight knives at no load and 65db with Byrd at no load. Under load was about 6db quieter than straight knives. Link
  20. JohnG

    A Twisted Form

    I'm glad someone has the skill, creativity, and energy for projects like this because I sure don't!
  21. JohnG

    Sharpening System

    The design of this and the Veritas mkii will give the same angle regardless of iron/chisel thickness. I have used guides similar to Tom’s (shop made and the original veritas guide) and personally can’t stand them. The shop made ones like Tom’s are much better than the old veritas one, but I still much prefer the veritas mkii. Can’t imagine forking out the cash for the WP over the veritas, but its does have a nice design.
  22. JohnG

    Style References

    In order to keep this thread a bit cleaner, I added a thread in the support section to suggest this. (LINK) If anyone is interested in adding a dedicated reference section, go show your support there and add thoughts about how it would be used. Thanks for taking the time to maintain the thread, this is very helpful!
  23. JohnG

    Just bought a little lathe...

    1x8 is pretty easy to find adapters and attachments for. I’ve got the Nova G3 chuck set and it has worked out well for all I do. That lathe can do 12” diameter so you can do a good bit with it. No big salad bowls, but I’ve been able to turn a lot of bowls on my 10”x14” midi. Avoid the harbor freight MT2 drill chuck. I bought one and it had a ton of runout. Threw it away and bought the Woodriver one and it has been good. Which gouges did you get?
  24. JohnG

    Basic Drill Press Question(s)

    I generally decide whether to clamp based on bit size relative to the size of the piece I am drilling into. 1" forstner bit drilling into a 2"x2" piece has far more pucker factor than into a 10"x10" or even a 2"x10" piece. If you're doing this for a hobby, there's no harm in taking a few extra seconds to clamp the piece down before drilling. Best to stay on the safe side, at least until you get a better feel for the tool. You'll never regret not losing a finger.
  25. JohnG

    Basic Drill Press Question(s)

    Also remember that you may need to occasionally back out the drill bit to allow the chips/waste to clear out. Some style and quality bits are better than others at clearing the waste. Feed rate also matters. Even if the chuck has some runout, you should be able to drill pine with a 1/2-5/8 forstner bit without too much trouble.