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Everything posted by JohnG

  1. I generally decide whether to clamp based on bit size relative to the size of the piece I am drilling into. 1" forstner bit drilling into a 2"x2" piece has far more pucker factor than into a 10"x10" or even a 2"x10" piece. If you're doing this for a hobby, there's no harm in taking a few extra seconds to clamp the piece down before drilling. Best to stay on the safe side, at least until you get a better feel for the tool. You'll never regret not losing a finger.
  2. Also remember that you may need to occasionally back out the drill bit to allow the chips/waste to clear out. Some style and quality bits are better than others at clearing the waste. Feed rate also matters. Even if the chuck has some runout, you should be able to drill pine with a 1/2-5/8 forstner bit without too much trouble.
  3. JohnG


    I’ve never heard of it before, but have carved basswood in the past. Looking at The Wood Database, it looks like they have similar characteristics, so it probably does carve well. It does also say that it is commonly used for carving.
  4. Looks like 6" is the way to go. I'll probably keep my current sander regardless, and can use up my current 5" pads between that and hand sanding. Awesome info, huge thanks for that! I also appreciate your input on ETS vs ETS EC. I like the lower profile look of the ETS EC but wasn't sure if it warranted the price difference. Sounds like it does for sure. Your post also reminds me that I need to take the time to get my #4 really sharp and use it more. I do have a domino so I have also been casually thinking about the festool vacs. My Ridgid vac works OK, but it's so loud and is far from enjoyable to use. I do subscribe to their email list and occasionally check the site without the email notifications. Part of the reason for this thread is when I would see a sander show up on the recon site, I would try to quickly find out if it was the one I want, only to get bogged down in comparing every detail of the different sanders. I usually gave up and thought "I'll figure out which sander I want later" and never did.
  5. Here’s the deal. I hate using my ROS. I have the Ridgid 5” corded sander and it was purchased for a home project when the budget was tight, I haven’t replaced it because it hasn’t broken. It’s not comfortable to hold and is awkward, especially if the shop vac is connected. 5” vs 6” Is there anything to this other than the obvious fact that 5” will fit in some areas that the 6” won’t, but 6” will sand large areas faster? I have a decent supply of 5” pads but am not opposed to switching to 6”. I can use the 5” pads for hand sanding or for using on my current sander if I ever pull it back out. Is there much benefit to keeping both stocked for a hobby woodworker? Brand/Price Point I know that you get what you pay for. Is there a big difference between the $60 sander I have and a $150-200 sander (say, one of the Bosch models)? I know Festool (and maybe Mirka) is regarded as the ultimate, but $750-1k+ (sander + vac) is tough to swallow, especially when I have other tool upgrades in mind. Models When I go to the Festool and Bosch sites, there are a bunch of models of seemingly the same sander. Are there a few main options that I should be looking at? Do I need to just accept that ROS usage will be miserable until I pony up for a top tier sander and vac? Or is there an acceptable middle ground than I can reach?
  6. Are you talking about going to the big box store and buying the boards to use? I wouldn’t bother buying them to use unless for a fence or maybe some ‘rustic’ decorative piece. By the time you dig through the stacks to find decent boards, dry them, resurface them, and potentially laminate them, are they really that much cheaper? I’d rather spend a little bit more on good quality pine or poplar or whatever hardwood is cheap in your region. If you came into a big stash of fence boards for free or dirt cheap from a fence that was removed or excess from installing a fence, might be worthwhile.
  7. Very nice! My first woodworking project was a very similar bookshelf for my daughter (now 2). The sloped front also helps accommodate the wide range in size of kids books. It is now overflowing with books so it is probably time to make another or a bigger one.
  8. JohnG


    They are pretty close. The airport is not far from our house and they were going in for a landing. 300mm lens on full frame body, uncropped. Thanks. In the full res version of the 2nd shot you can read the pilot’s name and slogan under the cockpit window. On the 2nd I intentionally timed it to get some of the near foliage in the shot for some added interest. That day was very clear, but some different weather conditions would be nice. Those E-2s fly over all the time, so I have unintentionally started a collection of their fleet. Now I want to catch the jets when they fly over. Never have my camera close when they do, though the sound does give a pretty good heads up! Now that the weather has turned nice, I spend a lot of time in the back yard with my daughter so it’s easy to keep the camera nearby. 2 year old and dog running around kills the bird opportunities though. Nice shot! Snow gives a good backdrop. We only got a light dusting of snow this year, if you could even call it that. The grass and sweet gum balls seem to be a little too busy of a backdrop for birds on the ground in my yard.
  9. JohnG


    I’ve recently found new interest in taking pictures of the Navy planes that fly over our house. Unfortunately it’s often the same angle, but occasionally I can catch them in a steep banked turn.
  10. JohnG


    Yikes! What does 5/4 cherry normally run in your area? Can you just tell them you're a sole proprietor and use your SSN and give a made up DBA name?
  11. I’d also go with a track saw unless I was running a cabinet shop. Really depends on what it will be used for. The panel saw at HD near me can cut 2x 3/4” ply just fine unless it’s the new guy using it, trying to run the saw head through the wood at 37mph.
  12. Passive solar is great when done right. Friend of mine had a passive solar house overlooking a beautiful ~30 acre plot. I remember the first time I visited his house was on a bitterly cold but sunny winter day, and they had a couple windows cracked to keep the temperature just right. I also went there in the mid summer heat and humidity, and it was just as comfortable. No heat, AC, or fans running any time I was there.
  13. Can you describe your finishing process? Any stain or dye applied before the ARS? A couple pictures could also help if you can get them to show the streaks. I've always applied ARS in a similar manner to this video (LINK) and have never had an issue with streaks. Maybe I'm just lucky, but this process has given easy and good results on almost all of my projects. I guess environment also has a large effect on dry time, I can usually sand and reapply after 4-6 hours, 8ish in winter. After my final coat I often use very light pressure with 1,000 or 1,500 grit. I've been meaning to try brown paper bag, but haven't had a chance yet.
  14. JohnG


    Deleted mine a while back, along with the couple other social media platforms I was on. Don’t miss it even the slightest bit. It did take a while to stop impulsively trying to go to those websites or open the apps.
  15. JohnG

    plywood and stain

    If you go to a lumber yard, they will likely have better plywood options. I bought some “stain grade” maple ply from a Wurth location near me and it took stain very well. You will pay more, but it will be better material. If both sides will be visible, be sure to get plywood that has the same grade veneer on both sides. For the parts that will only be seen from one side, you can get ply with a lower grade veneer on the back to save money (if you need multiple sheets). My experience with HD/Lowe’s plywood is that it is fine for shop furniture or when being painted, but does not give good results with stain.
  16. There are too many options and variables to give specific alternatives. Any plywood will be sturdy enough as long as your design is reasonable. If you haven't already, do some reading online about the different types of plywood. Veneer vs. MDF core, hardwood veneer core vs softwood veneer core, rotary/quarter sawn/plain sawn veneer, and plywood grading. I felt completely in the dark buying plywood before I learned about the different options.
  17. Baltic birch is generally a very good product, but it’s not the only good option. I use BB for shop stuff, but I don’t think I’d use it for house furniture unless it was going to be painted or veneered. Ask to see some comparable alternatives. Look along the edges to see if there are any voids- if there are voids along the edge there will also be voids in the middle of the sheets. Look at how thick then top/bottom veneers are. Look to see if the sheet is flat or if it has warped. Each lumber yard is different, but at mine the guys in the showroom are very friendly and happy to answer questions and give advice, while the guys in the back would rather not deal with any customers. For some projects you can save money by buying sheets with a lower grade face on one side if it won’t be seen.
  18. Will the video be available for us to watch?
  19. What ever happened with this? Any developments?
  20. Thanks! There’s more where it came from. Probably another 20bf 8/4 walnut, at least another 30bf 4/4 walnut, and more pine and oak. These are all from trees on my dad’s property. He had the pine and walnut milled in hopes of having a specific furniture maker build something from it. Not surprisingly, the guy didn’t want to run questionably material through his machines. I will have access to the rest of it, and will likely be moving to the general area in 1.5-2 years.
  21. Not today, but scored a good bit of free rough sawn lumber over the weekend. 8bf 4/4white oak (12” wide) 30bf 4/4 walnut (11-12” wide) 13bf 8/4 walnut 17bf 4/4 pine The 4/4 walnut has some nice figure on one end, straight grain on the other. The boards are sequential, so I have 4 pieces with similar features.
  22. I’m not sure what the glide ratio is for the 777-200, but I’ll bet it could easily glide those last 8mi after it runs out of fuel.
  23. Look what came in the mail today- latest FWW issue has an article on curved doors.
  24. That looks very nice! However, I don’t really understand the use of the box. Is there an explanation? I don’t use Facebook.