JohnG

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Everything posted by JohnG

  1. There's also the Rikon 10-305 that is $300, and can be found for around $250 on sale. It has 4-5/8" resaw capacity and has a few less features than the 10-306, but is still a decent option for the price. Or if you come across a used Craftsman 10" on craigslist, it's the same thing as the Rikon 10-305.
  2. Looks like a decent price for the unit if it's in good shape and has flat tables/square fence. The 10" combo units get pretty mixed reviews, the 12"+ are a different class of machine and get much better reviews (also exponentially more expensive).
  3. Wish I had known that before buying! Thanks for the info, maybe I’ll pick up a FTG blade soon. I figured the flat would be the same height as the chamfered teeth. Used it for splines on picture frames and it left a bit of a gap at the bottom.
  4. I have been meaning to reply to your original post, but haven't had the time to sit down and type it out until now. I really appreciate the info that you provided and am reassured by it. With a 2 year old, I recently was feeling like we were single handedly destroying the forests with all the paper towels and other paper products we use to clean up this or clean up that, plus all the cardboard boxes from ordering things online since it can be a huge hassle to take a 2yo shopping. And like most, I constantly see articles or messages regarding "Going Green" and reducing paper usage because of all the trees being cut. So thank you for reminding me that there is always another side of the story. I now have bookmarked some additional articles and resources to further inform myself. I should have been more informed, especially since I have some connections to the paper industries. My father's business, which I have worked for in the past and may work for again in the future, includes a brand of artists papers. My step mother used to work for a company that owns a lot of timber land and does a lot of recycling operations with various paper and wood products. And one of the companies I currently work for leases a large amount of warehouse space to a couple well-known paper and cardboard product companies, and while they are not critical to our ongoing stability, we would hate for them to have to shut down their operations in our area. My (small) company is largely paperless, but not for environmental reasons. We all live and work in different areas and need access to all of the documents. It certainly doesn't make sense to drive 5-10 hours to pull some documents from a filing cabinet. While it would help support other workers along the way, it also would not make sense to constantly mail the documents back and forth. As someone mentioned, not all trees are equal, and this is a good thing. I don't think it would be good for us woodworkers if walnut, cherry, maple, oak, etc were preferred for making paper products! Each wood products industry, as well as other groups or agencies, have an interest in keeping the various species renewable and managed properly. Yes, development clears a lot of area that was previously or could be forest land, but the portion of land that is developed in the US is still quite small. I'd imagine that pests and diseases are a bigger threat to the trees than anything else. tldr; Thank you for your original post and subsequent replies with additional info, I appreciate it and have benefited from it.
  5. What blade did it come with? I recently bought a Freud Industrial Glue Line Rip blade (30t, full kerf). I was a bit nervous to go full kerf since I just have a job site saw, but it seams to cut with less effort than the Freud Diablo 40t thin kerf combo blade I had been using. My only complaint so far is that while it has the TCG teeth, it does not leave a perfectly flat bottom. It seems the flat teeth are just a hair shorter than the other teeth so it results in a tiny chamfer.
  6. Agreed. Or maple. Great opportunity for someone that has a lathe and is interested in doing batch work for cash.
  7. +1 for dado. Easy and effective.
  8. I was more put off by the attitude of parts of the post and responses to comments than the fact they are changing materials for the knobs. I don’t care that you made poor business decisions and didn’t raise your prices when you should have. But to have requests for an option that would solve your apparent crisis, only to respond that it is “not something we’d ever do”? Come on!
  9. You may want to sticker and stack your lumber for a while after bringing it home from the dealer. Periodically check it (over days or weeks) with your moisture meter and when it stops changing, that is the equilibrium moisture content for your shop. If you have any wood that has been sitting around in the shop for a long time, you can also compare the moisture content between that and new lumber that you buy. If you give your general location, someone here may be able to tell you the approximate EMC for that area. How long it takes will depend on how it was dried and the humidity where you store it, airflow, etc. There are some rules of thumb, but they are very general and it is easy to be much different than actual. Another thing that you have to consider is where the piece will end up. If it ends up somewhere with a very different humidity level (could even be the difference between your garage and inside your house), you can run into issues if you don’t plan for it.
  10. I find that if I don’t enter the shop with a clear list of what I am going to work on and complete (ensuring that those things can easily be done in the time I have), I am much more likely to rush something or do something out of order and get frustrated. If I find myself getting to that point, I pack up and leave the shop. Nothing good comes out of pushing on at that point.
  11. Probably case by case but I flew earlier this week with my DSLR and a couple lenses and it didn’t bother them. You do have to pull the camera out of your carry on bag though. The sliced apple, however, made them mad. Years ago I was flying through Germany or Switzerland and had a fountain drink. Security made me take a sip of it before letting me through.
  12. Would also love to find out more about this. I'd also be interested in info on how close the conductivity of a finger actually compares to that of a hotdog. Has anyone done the demo with a pig leg or something that is likely more similar to a finger? I've seen a few pictures that people have posted after their finger made contact with the blade, and while still far from severe, they do look worse than what the hotdog test suggests would happen. I know there's the video of the guy putting his finger into the blade for a demo, but it is not at all a real-world scenario.
  13. They actually had a copy of Mike P's book at my local Woodcraft when I went in today, one lone copy. I brought it home with me. Looking forward to reading it.
  14. Oil finishes take a long time to dry, especially in the cold. I wouldn’t have expected it to be dry within 6 hours of the last coat at this time of year. I’d give it 24 hours before doing anything else. For instance, General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, an oil based wipe on poly, give a trying time of “Good drying conditions 12-24 hours. Cold or damp conditions will prolong drying time”
  15. JohnG

    Chet

    Glad you are on the road to recovery! FYI- recent studies have shown that using acetaminophen (Tylenol) and ibuprofen (Advil/Motrin) together is more effective than using opioids in reducing pain.
  16. Excellent use of that space! My 2 year old hasn't shown much interest yet. Though, I did make her a small wooden hammer and she likes hitting things with it, and likes rearranging the sawdust in my shop.
  17. No need to feel foolish. This post may help someone resolve the same issue in the future. You must not be the only one, since the rep told you that they had heard similar complaints about the design in the past. Glad you got it working!
  18. Interested in seeing the responses here. I too had been told, and have since heard many repeat the gullet rule, so that is generally what I do for normal cuts. I haven’t ever read the documentation that come with blades, but will check what is says on the Freud GLR blade I just bought.
  19. Especially for the 'regular' octane. Many stations charge their cost on regular, but do add a tiny bit of markup on the higher octanes.
  20. I'd probably just build a frame to sit behind it so that the mirror is supported along the total height (or at least a few points rather than just the bottom and top). It would be slightly recessed on the sides and top so that it wouldn't be visible in normal use. The frame could be secured to the wall studs at various points along the height and width. It could have a ledge for the bottom of the mirror to sit on so that all the weight isn't just on the back edge, though depending on the angle your wife chooses, this might not be practical or necessary. Then the mirror can be secured to the frame with some z clips or figure 8s into the solid parts of the frame, or some small L brackets depending on space available. The angles and total height of the frame can easily be found by making a plywood template of the side profile of the mirror frame (~3" wide, 81" long/tall). It doesn't have to be hurricane-proof, just stable enough that it won't tip or get knocked over.
  21. I picked up this habit when I was driving city buses in a college town. It was every 8-10 seconds then, but now has relaxed to 15-20 seconds. I agree that it’s a bit over the top, but maybe they will realize that if/when they build the prototype. Or when they get solid production cost numbers.
  22. JohnG

    domino joiner

    Sounds like maybe you flipped the sides or the front. Did you make marks or take other precautions to be certain you used the same reference faces and put everything back in the same place/orientation? Did you strike a line across both pieces at the same time for marking domino location?