JohnG

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Everything posted by JohnG

  1. This was yesterday, but I just realized that the stop block on the Incra 1000HD can actually be used as TWO stop blocks. Only took me maybe 6 months to realize that? Feel so dumb now, as there have been several times I could have used that feature.
  2. I’m also not super experienced, but have turned a couple projects with a similar situation. Are you set on using the scraper? A bowl gouge gave me better results than a scraper.
  3. It is illegal for car manufacturers/dealers to require that you have routine service performed at their dealerships (or any specific repair place) in order to keep your warranty valid. They can, however, require that you use certain authorized shops for warranty work that is to be done free of charge. They can refuse to cover a repair that is normally covered under warranty if a related repair was previously done at a non-authorized service center and they can argue that the failure was due to improper repairs done at that other service center. This sort of stuff is covered by the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act if you are concerned about any of the specifics.
  4. When I’ve had things cut at the various cutting stations at HD or Lowe’s, I’ve enjoyed noticing how often the code for the machines are 1234 or 1111. A couple times I have seen that the code is actually written on a post or shelf next to the keypad.
  5. JohnG

    Dresser

    Veneer is commonly around 1/40” thick, or about half a millimeter, so it can be easy to accidentally sand through it. Especially if using lower grit sandpaper on any powered sander. If you purchased this dresser second hand, you also don’t know if previous owners had sanded and refinished the drawer fronts at some point, leaving the veneer even thinner. It looks like there are some areas on other drawers where the veneer is nearly worn through. Like on the 2nd drawer down, just to the left of the lock and under the left knob. Out of curiosity, what was your process for sanding it (grits used, type of sander or by hand).
  6. I see the Workholding Kit thread in the new activity, and I do not belong to the Woodpeckers club. I had also been curious about this, so I’m glad you asked! I’m still curious how the clubs work, and how they differ from sub forums.
  7. Verizon no longer charges a fee to use the hotspot feature, or at least not on our "Medium" 4gb data plan with my iPhone and my wife's iPhone. Probably wise to verify with the sales rep for your plan and device though. I've used it a few times for work when traveling, and yes it does add up quick! Much faster than you'd think. If you are wanting to use a hotspot with any regular frequency, I'd consider the unlimited data plans.
  8. A sub that big will make any wood curly!
  9. For the record, I just left it as-is. My wife didn’t care about the continuity from front to sides (as I expected), and it can’t at all be seen in its current location. I can remake the drawers later on if it will be exposed and bothers me. Lesson learned.
  10. So the desk is done! Just waiting for the boss to make the final decision on the drawer pulls. As I mentioned previously, my wife wanted the distressed look and picked out the colors and gave input on the distressing. I think that if I ever do another painted project, I’ll spring for a spray setup. Luckily the distressed style allows for some brush marks and imperfections. It was finished with 3 coats of GF High Performance Flat. This was my first time using HP, and I enjoyed the lack of smell compared to ARS (my go-to finish) and quicker drying time. We had a warmer weekend and I was able to do all of the finishing in one day. I had a moment of panic when we went to move it into its place in the house. I knew it would be a snug fit in this little nook, but made a slight miscalculation and ended up with about 1/4” total wiggle room. Don’t mind the mess of wires underneath. Those will all be moved in the next few days, with no loose wires under the desk. After I finish up a couple quick side projects, I’ll make the little hutch that will sit on top.
  11. Have you figured out how you will make the form and how you will clamp it up? Seems to me this would not be easy without one of those fancy machines they have in the video. In the video you linked to, they use 3 ply (3mm) sheets and 1 ply (1mm) sheets to get 9mm and 7mm final thicknesses. Can you use just the 3mm or 1/8" ply to get to 9mm and 6mm final thickness?
  12. As an accountant, I must point out that the accountants are also not making the decisions. We just report the data that is requested and/or required. That data is handed off to other departments or parties, and they make their decisions based on a variety of factors, including but not limited to the data provided by the accountants. Accountants don’t set the budgets. They likely draft them based on prior data and forecast input from different departments, but they are modified and approved by CEO/President and heads of other departments. Accountants will provide reporting on budget vs. actual, but don’t decide what happens if the budget is exceeded. Even the Controller and CFO have less sway over the operations and decision making than people think. The accounting/finance department may send message to other departments that they have to cut back or reduce spending, but that is sent on behalf of someone else. The accounting department may tell another department that they are approaching or have exceeded their budget, but that other departments decides how to proceed, not the accountants. There are many places where decision making can differ or break down, so it’s not even fair to blame the CEO or President for certain problems. Without knowing all the specifics for each situation, it is foolish to blame any one department or party. Companies are organized and operate in a wide variety of ways, and the answer in one situation is likely not the answer in others. I fully agree that engineers usually get the bulk of the blame for any design, though they don’t have as much control over what they are designing as people think.
  13. You're right. It depends on the store's systems (physical terminals, software, and communications infrastructure), and presumably volume of activity at the time (on the store's end and bank side). The whole security benefit of the chip is that it runs additional verification on each transaction. Additional verification takes additional time. If the store's systems are old or poorly set up, it will take much longer than a store that has good systems. It would be foolish to artificially slow the process down in order to sell a few more candy bars. Some cards have an RFID chip in them that allows you to use the card without swiping. You just hold it in front of the receiver for a few seconds, similar to how people use Apple Pay or other similar services with their phone. I've used it a few times but usually default to the "normal" way of using a card.
  14. Yep. Merchants that still do not use the chip are technically liable for all fraudulent charges. As Mark mentioned, this does not apply to online purchases or other “card not present” purchases. The merchants have always carried the bulk of the risk with credit card sales- especially for physical goods. The charge goes through and the person leaves with their items. There’s a delay in when the merchant actually receives the payment, and likely a longer period when the CC company can make adjustments. By the time the merchant finds out that they will not receive the payment, their inventory is long gone. If it is a service or subscription, the merchant can stop providing the service, but they’ve lost whatever has already been provided. Unfortunately each step toward reducing fraudulent charges is met with resistance because it causes immediate inconvenience for the users and merchants with unclear benefits.
  15. +1 for the ARS being old/bad. I have ARS on my desk which has seen hours of use daily for the past year+ and it has not softened at all.
  16. Man, that looks great! Hard to beat cherry.
  17. This. Or the large number of people that never even bother to look at their statements or activity and just pay whatever they are told.
  18. I'm sure the amount has to be pretty high before the credit card company would even consider taking action. If there was a large enough amount from a single merchant, the CC company would likely go after the merchant for reimbursement, then it would be up to the merchant to go after the individual. For a few hundred or even a few thousand the bank would likely end up spending far more in researching and taking action than just eating the cost.
  19. A similar thing happened to my wife a number of years ago, they made a couple small purchases to verify it went through, then spent a couple hundred in some online games. I didn’t even bother contacting the places to get them to reverse the charges, that’s the bank/credit card company’s job. Just notified the bank and they went through the charges to verify which ones weren’t my wife, took the bogus charges off her account and issued a new card. If the bank wants you to do the legwork, it’s time to switch banks. I only use cash when absolutely necessary, credit cards these days offer far better purchase protection and you can get cash back. Win win in my book.
  20. I'm currently just using a jobsite table saw, and would like to upgrade to a cabinet saw. My wife works in the ER and has seen people come in with fingers in a jar, so she is supportive of the idea but I'm not sure she was expecting the $3k price tag. I don't have a jointer at all yet, just been using S3S for projects. Luckily the dealer I use does a pretty good job and the boards have generally stayed square and straight (except for a couple odd boards). I've got a 10" bandsaw, but would like to be able to resaw more than 4". The bandsaw upgrade will probably be the last of the three. I do have Peart's books on my 'wishlist'. I'll probably buy one or both in early 2019.
  21. Sawstop pro, 36” fence, 3hp. 14” bandsaw. Jointer (pref parallelogram 8”). Probably wouldn’t buy all at once, but are purchased I’d like to make in the somewhat near future. May settle for a 6” jointer if a good deal comes up that I have the time to jump on. I’ve seen some good deals on 8” jointers, but just haven’t had the availability to rent/borrow a truck and drive out to get them. I’ve only been into woodworking for a couple years, but have always enjoyed building things and working with my hands. My skills at woodworking still have a long way to go, but it’s an enjoyable learning experience. I see a lot of improvement with each project. The first guild project I bought was the highboy project when they were running the Fathers Day sale. It’s 11+ hours of video. I would never build a Queen Anne highboy for myself, but I learned a lot from watching it, and have put a lot of it to use on other projects. At your level, based on this desk, there may not be as much benefit in just watching them. I didn’t even take a wood shop class in high school (at that time I thought metal working was cool and woodworking was lame), and didn’t grow up with any woodworkers in the family. I’m still learning a lot of the best practices and rules of thumb, so I’m trying to absorb as much info as possible. I also don’t know any local woodworkers, and the guild projects have been a much better value than the one Woodcraft class I took. I will have to do some specific G&G reading and research. I just drool over some of Peart’s pieces.
  22. I’ll check out that FWW article. I own several guild projects and have bought some of them just to watch, with no intention to ever build the piece. They are well made and enjoyable to watch, and the lessons are easily transferred to other projects. Once I finish up a couple in-progress projects, I’ll propose a G&G style item to my wife and see how she feels about the style. I may have to hold off on a ‘me’ project since I also just proposed about $5k in machines I want to buy but I will definitely reach out to you for some tips/advice when I get around to a G&G project.
  23. You can use any knife or other piece of sharpened metal. The only thing special about any marking knife is how easily it fits in tight spaces, and how well or easily it registers against the edge of a rule or work piece. The more expensive ones also tend to have handles that look and feel better than the cheap ones. Paul Sellers uses a cheap Stanley folding knife, below. I have one of the same, but find it difficult to register the small bevel sometimes. I mostly use it for opening packaging and miscellaneous tasks now. You can also buy single bevel or double bevel blades for it.