JohnG

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Everything posted by JohnG

  1. They also make a spray on sealer and adhesive, which may be easier depending on your project. I do not have personal experience with those. Speedball’s customer service is very good, if you call them I’d bet they would be happy to help you decide which would be better for your application. And if your results (on your test piece) are not satisfactory they should either help you pinpoint any application error or otherwise take care of you (refund/replacement/exchange). You do not want to use the gilders mop for applying the adhesive or the sealer. I used decent quality synthetic flat artist’s brushes, and they are readily available in a variety of sizes. You really don’t want to work the sealer a lot, so pick a size that will work well for your need. Will you be using genuine silver or imitation? Wear gloves or avoid handing the leaf much, you don’t want it to start to tarnish before you seal it.
  2. I have a bit of experience using the Mona Lisa (Speedball Art) metal leaf products. They make a sealer that did not dull the leaf in my experience. It will dull the leaf if applied improperly (additional costs before dry, excessive brushing, etc). Whatever you go with, I’d do a test piece to be sure. Full disclosure: I am related to someone involved with the company.
  3. I have yet to find a disc my Super Drive will eject! Agreed on contacting the seller.
  4. I don’t think anyone was suggesting having the side of the organizer be flush with the edge of the top. In his drawing, the desk top overhangs 2”, while the organizers are set in 3/4” (estimated dimensions). I was suggesting to have those match, so the desk top and organizer top are aligned, and the organizer side and legs are aligned. It is a nice design having the top of the organizer overhang and rounded to match the desk top.
  5. I’d decrease the side overhang of the top. Then align the organizers so the outside edge is in the same plane as the outside edges of the legs. If possible, I’d also adjust the width of the organizers to have the inner edges of the aligned with another feature- the edge of the drawers or the start of the cutout in the apron.
  6. Paul Jenkins made a flip top cart youtube video a while back with hinge blocks to lock the top. Slightly different execution though- he used standard hinges, then added a magnet so the blocks would stay in place. Definitely a neat idea.
  7. Where did you find the picture? Unless it was from a site that sells the plans, chances are very low that you would find plans for that exact crib. It looks like the pictured crib has a drop side, which are now illegal to manufacture, sell, or donate in the United States, Canada, and some other countries. This thread is quite old, but it does have some good info on safety concerns when building a crib, as well as a few links and references to available crib plans. If you haven't already, go back and read the prior posts. Crib mattresses are a standard size (mostly), so it would be fairly easy to either make your own plans around the mattress size, or purchase a set of crib plans and adjust the design to your liking. If you aren't confident in being able to generate plans from scratch that will be sturdy and safe, buy plans from a reputable company and change the (non-structural) aesthetics of it.
  8. A nice handsaw might also be a good option. The BearKat saws look like they are heirloom quality, but I don’t have any personal experience with them.
  9. Thanks for the replies! No, the drawers are not file size. My wife figured that since I have (2) 24” depth file drawers on my desk, she doesn’t need any. I keep all of our family stuff organized anyway, and she doesn’t need any filing space for her use, so we took out the file drawers from her desk design. There will be a top drawer about 3” tall and a lower drawer about 6” tall.
  10. JohnG

    Occupation

    I’m a Mr. Mom by day, Accountant by night. I’m self employed and do contract accounting, finance, and a bunch of other things for a group of private companies.
  11. If the struts otherwise work well (assist in opening, keep the lid from slamming shut), I’d leave them mounted where they are and notch out that horizontal piece to give them clearance. If you don’t want to do that, you could move both sets of mounting brackets toward the front of the chest so the lid mounts are in front of that horizontal piece. You can’t mount the brackets equidistant from the hinges. That would prevent the lid from closing.
  12. I am concerned that there is not clearance for the strut in the closed position because of the cross support you have on the lid. It looks to me like that piece contacted the strut (evidenced by the dents in the wood), and that bent the mounting bracket. Did you have the same issue on the other side?
  13. This has proven to be a very effective business model. Look at Nike, they have trained their loyal customers to do exactly that - buy up several pairs before they are discontinued. Then re-release the same item with different colors and the same people will buy several more pairs. Woodpeckers is also doing something similar with their OTTs. If a $150 square is always available, people will think long and hard before shelling out for it. But if it's only available right now, for a limited time, they take advantage of people's FOMO. The PC 390 and DeWalt D26456 look to be the same profile. Not sure how much you're willing to spend but there's one on eBay- https://www.ebay.com/itm/DeWalt-D26456-5-Inch-Corded-Low-Profile-Random-Orbit-Sander/253778139437?hash=item3b165b192d%3Ag%3AXQMAAOSwg2FbWeJq&_sacat=0&_nkw=D26456&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0
  14. A little more progress over the past few days. I got all the M&T cut for the legs and main rails. Since I had 16 to cut, I tried out a few different methods. As I said in my last post, the first ones I did were hogged out with the router, then pared back to the line with chisels. I did a few using an undersized drill bit (forstner and brad point), then chisels. Then I did a few with only chisels, which made me want a mortise chisel. I cut some tenons with my dovetail and pull saws, trying to get as close to the line as possible to avoid needing a lot of paring. Then I cut a couple with chisels only. I’m not sure if it was the size of my joints or my inefficiency and inexperience, but it seemed like all methods took about the same amount of time. The hand cut ones gave the most satisfaction once complete, but I was also the most unsure about those during the process. This evening I picked up a Whiteside 1/4” spiral upcut router bit to cut the grooves for my panels. I’ll have to do a couple test cuts to determine whether I can use the stock guide or if I’ll need to make a jig.
  15. I'll put in another vote to contact Stanley and/or the seller. I'd guess that they either a bad batch or are something other than legitimate 750 Sweetheart chisels. Do all of the chisels you received have the same profile? A review on Stanley's website from 8 months ago states that "The side bevels are beautifully thin..." I'd be surprised if they changed their tooling since then, and I don't see a reason that they would ever change the 750s to have such a chunky profile. Also, if you look on Stanley's site, it shows the side bevels being very thin as you would expect.
  16. Yes, it was a joke. I bought new extinguishers for my mom last year and have several around her house (the ones I replaced were much much newer than the one pictured, but older than I liked). But, for some reason, this old one has been floating around still. It’s not in a place that anyone would accidentally grab it in the event of a fire. I thought the emoji would indicate my sarcasm, but should have made it more clear.
  17. How about this one? It’s probably still good, right? I believe this has been floating around our house/garage since I was a kid, but I may be mistaken. Who knows why it has made so many moves. Sorry to revive this thread, but I found this in my mom’s basement when I was visiting and going through some old things and thought of this thread.
  18. Just a few piddly things, and some of them get very piddly. In the "About Me" section, consider changing "I have been woodworking for ten years, and have been doing commissioned pieces for the last five" to " I have been woodworking since 2008, and have been doing commissioned pieces since 2013." or similar, unless you want to update it every year. You may also want to reconsider the section about using only clear coat. Someone may see that and assume you have no interest in staining/painting a piece, or that you will give excess pushback if they request it, and they may not even contact you to ask. If you truly don't want those jobs, that's totally fine. But if you are looking for all the jobs you can get to start out, you may want to add something along the lines of "but I understand that everyone has their own preferences and needs, and I am proficient in a variety of finishing techniques." Overall, the photos are crisp and nice. I'd suggest putting a bit more effort to remove clutter from the background when you take the photos. Like Mark mentioned about the dutchmen photo, your body/feet, rag, can/tube on the ground, DC hose, and shavings are a bit distracting. In the dovetail photo, the sideways planer. The bench photo, the dead plants and knocked over watering can, the array of tools to the side. In the mortise photo, it looks like the mortise was laid out toward the right face, then cut toward the left face, some may notice that and wonder what happened. I don't want to seem overly critical, but it will make the difference between good and great portfolio shots. I like the idea of the video for the Completed Projects link, but it's fairly shaky. You may want to see if you can borrow some sort of steady cam, make one, or make a track to help smooth it out. Edit- looks like Chestnut beat me to some of the comments. For some very nice portfolio pictures, take a look at https://tecori.com/works-furniture.html and the Online Shop and Crafts links at the same site. He does a great job with his photos, without going the route of a solid color backdrop.
  19. I’d guess that the difference in cost of shipping a couple of the pieces of machinery vs shipping all of the machinery won’t be significantly different. I think the bulk of the cost will be due to the distance of travel. It might be hard to get a binding quote without having access to the equipment, especially if you don’t have the actual weights and dimensions of the stuff. But do what you can to get a couple quotes, then talk to the estate about it to let them know your concerns about burdening them with the cost. Some estates would be open to handling the equipment differently if the shipping cost makes it not worth sending, while others would rather pay $10k to have it shipped than deal with selling the stuff on Craigslist or similar If you decide to take the stuff, I’d vote for flying out, then driving a truck back with all of it. Depending on how comfortable you are with long drives, you could do the whole trip in a work week. I’ve done 2,675mi from CA to VA in 57hrs solo, and 42hrs with my wife. When you get back with the stuff, you can take your time to check out the equipment and decide what you want to keep and what you should sell.
  20. Looks great! Those panels are gorgeous. Eventually I will be making a bed so we can stop using a metal frame. It looks like you made space to use a box spring, is that correct? Many of the bed builds I have seen recently have opted to maximize the storage space by eliminating the box spring and using more slats or a solid layer for the mattress to sit on.
  21. More progress! I cut the main rails to final size and cut tenons on the ends, then laid out where the mortises will be cut in the legs. I chose 1" for tenon length. I think that will be sufficient? These are my first M&T joints, so I'm just figuring things out as I go. The desk isn't this wide, the outer legs are the fronts. After I laid out the rough location of the mortises (so that I didn't cut them on the wrong side or wrong face), I worked on laying out the precise locations. I have a small mortise gauge, but I couldn't get it to work for these. I tried using the outside and inside face as the reference, but the cutters couldn't quite be adjusted to the dimensions needed. I could have changed the size of my tenons or adjusted the setback of the mortises, but I decided to just use my wheel marking gauge instead. Once I had the layout complete, I hogged out most of the waste with a 3/8" router bit, then chiseled back to the lines. I was pleasantly surprised by the results of my very first M&T joints. I ended up completing 6 of the 16 mortises in the legs, and have routed out two more. Once I finish the rest, I will start to think about cutting the grooves for the panels. Yesterday's progress was slowed by splitting my time between the desk and finishing up an anniversary gift (yesterday).
  22. Expand on this, what kind of cuts were you making? Why did they “suck?” it could be your technique or there could be a better way to achieve the result you are looking for.
  23. Thanks! I wish I could say I'm always that organized, but life gets in the way. I had some time in the shop yesterday, but I just realized that my wedding anniversary is in a few days so I had to do a quick side project!