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Everything posted by JohnG

  1. JohnG


    Ah, ok.
  2. JohnG


    Anyone heard from @..Kev? Haven’t seen any activity on here from him in a while.
  3. As much as the planning and process boggles my mind, I absolutely love these journals!
  4. I always try to buy USA made, but sometimes it simply doesn’t work out. The Harvey Alpha bandsaw is made in China. Northfield is made in USA but their smallest bandsaw is 36” and their smallest table saw is 5hp 14”…
  5. Pretty sure all three are equally easy to come by.
  6. I think a >72”x18” vacuum chamber is going to be a bit cost prohibitive…
  7. Yes, be sure to price out the epoxy (slow setting, deep pour type) and slabs before doing anything. Buy more epoxy than you need, both for testing and in case you have a leak on the project piece. The test will also familiarize yourself with the work involved in flattening, polishing, and finishing the piece after the pour is set. He should be thinking in thousands, not hundreds.
  8. You simply only use the line/rectangle/circle/text tools and don’t push/pull any surfaces. Set the view angle perpendicular to the drawing plane.
  9. Ah, of course. Makes total sense now. I had thought you were only taking a kerf width cut or less, meaning there would be no offcut to pinch the blade with, and the featherboard would only be contacting the actual work piece.
  10. Maybe I’m too tired to think it through, but why is that a no-no?
  11. Also over here you won’t have any trouble finding solvents like in SoCal. However, good avocados and good mexican food are much harder to find.
  12. When you get over here to NC you’ll find that burning is commonplace, especially if you’re in a rural area.
  13. There are several free cad programs. FreeCad is one of them. Autodesk AutoCad is the industry standard, but isn’t cheap. Sketchup and Fusion360 (both have free versions) can be used for 2d drawings, 3d is not required.
  14. Well here’s your first mistake! It’s a big rabbit hole!
  15. Deerwood is owned by Pan American Screw, and all of their brands are manufactured in China now. They do have a facility in Conover NC.
  16. Some are owned and leased by companies (Chep) and some are bough outright. We spend high 5 figures (or more) on pallets every year. Some stores/businesses that receive more palletized shipments than they send are happy to give some away, others would consider it theft. Best to ask.
  17. I would start out by buying a small amount of the varthane product and a single tread. Go through the entire process of prepping and finishing the tread. Do you like the results? Can you imagine yourself doing X more? (However many stairs you have) Do you have all the tools needed to remove the existing treads, any trim or other items that need to be removed to get the treads out, trimming the treads to width (you may need to fit each tread separately). Do you feel comfortable reinstalling or replacing the trim (if needs to be removed earlier). Calculate the cost of materials to do it yourself, then after you do the single tread calculate how long it might take you to do the whole staircase. It might turn out that $5k sounds good in the end.
  18. One thing I don’t understand- the micro adjust is tool free, but then to lock the height adjustment you have to use a tool? And it’s a different tool than the main height adjust?
  19. I’m sure they look even better in person. Someday is what I keep telling myself too.
  20. Never bet against a one armed person.
  21. My current method is 80% functionality with 20% effort, but I have a full time+ job and 3 kids under 5. Down the road when I start having more time, I hope to make my shop my retreat. The shop furniture might not be quite to the heirloom furniture point, but I want the shop environment to be pleasing and inspiring.
  22. Your L fence is a lot fancier than mine! They are really nice to have.
  23. They also make a couple cuts for free, so if you need the smaller size for transportation or storage, you can get the 4x8 sheet and have them cut it down to save a bunch of money. Just don’t expect the cuts to be very precise.
  24. Good question. Mine is very good. It’s a large table, 20x20. The blade change slot is a hair higher on the infeed side. Feeding will not snag. Checking with a metal ruler with sharp corners, you can feel the slot coming back toward the infeed side but it does not snag. The throat plate has adjusting screws so no issue there either. I have two 24” machined straight edges (woodriver and groz) that I checked it with in several places and directions. The only place I can get the corner of a sheet of paper under the straight edges is in the front right corner, due to the slightly higher edge of the blade change slot acting as a fulcrum. I can’t fit two sheets under it. If I put the straight edge only on the infeed side or only on the outfeed side, the paper won’t go under. If I can dig up my feeler gauges I’ll try to measure it, but I don’t think it’s enough to cause any noticeable error for any woodworking application.