roscoewoodworker

Members
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern Illinois
  • Woodworking Interests
    furniture making, wood turning, general woodworking

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have used both Sketchup and, more recently, Sketchlist. They operate in very different way. The developer/owner of the software has been extremely responsive to me since I originally bought the Shop Version. Then, when there was a recent deal, I upgraded to the Pro Version for an additional $130. (I don't think that deal is available anymore.) Getting used to Sketchlist after using Sketchup for a number of years was a little difficult at first. Now, however, I think that it is a good match for my woodworking hobby. Pricing is also one of the big differences between the two applications. Sketchlist (both shop and pro versions) is purchased via a one-time licensing fee while Sketchup can be used via a free cloud-based application or purchased with an annual maintenance fee. That pricing for Sketchup can get expensive when added up over a number of years. For now, I have decided to stick with SketchList because I think it will serve my needs just as well as Sketchup for less total money over time. An additional SketchList benefit is that Dave, the developer, is running weekly online support session meetings to answer questions about user problems and to get feedback on the software. Can't beat that for support.
  2. The 500 will do most projects. Where the 700 would be useful is on a mid-size project where you want the mortises deeper/the tenons longer. Typical 700 projects would be furniture like beds, large tables, exterior or interior solid wood doors, and outside projects like pergolas, etc. I have both and, after having the 700 for about a year, I have finally used it for a project which, while not all that large, benefitted from longer tenons than I could make with my 500 for some of the joints. I have never been a believer in using the 700 for smaller projects with the Seneca adapters. My only reason is that the 500 and 700 are designed for projects of different magnitudes. It is very difficult to use the 700, adapters or not, on smaller pieces. On the other hand, the 700 can create much stronger joints where heavy duty strength is needed. If I had it to do over again, I may not buy the 700 because I have found only rare uses for it that I could find another solution for.
  3. I have the Black Hope Dust Hood from Craft Supplies (woodturnerscatalog.com). Hooked to my cyclone it catches virtually all the time dust and gets small shavings also. The lathe ribbons and shavings don’t get sucked up but they just fall to the floor anyway.
  4. Since the gaps don't span the entire length consistently, I might think the router bit's cut was a little rough and possibly made less than smooth sides in the plywood for the inlay. Moving the router too fast might cause that. It's fine line between moving just the right speed along the cut and either too fast or too slow. Also, if you took out the entire 1/4" depth at once, the finish on the sides might improve by doing the cuts 1/8" at a time. It's also possible that the walnut wasn't completely smooth along the edges after jointing, but since you said you jointed it I assume that's not it.
  5. This suggestion may not be popular, but I have subscribed to Fine Woodworking online for years. This past year they changed their structure. A FWW Unlimited membership gives you the magazine but the most useful thing to me is that you have access to all information from their past issues and to a variety of basic technique and woodworking information books online also. It is pricey at $99 a year, but then you have access to books (digitally) that would cost quite a bit if purchased separately.
  6. Couldn't properly cut dovetail joints on drawers even be glued without clamps (or pin nails)? Seems like if joints fit properly they could almost be assembled and just let to sit without clamps. I've never done this but though about it.
  7. I have come in late and others have already said what I would say. I'd just reinforce that screwing down the slab to the legs will twist the legs to conform to the shape of the wood; not the wood to the legs. The slab is too massive to bend to fit the shape of the legs. Routing a flat slot in the bottom will solve the problem of mounting the legs flat across the table. However it won't make the top flat. If this is a dining table, I think you'll notice even a small amount of twist on the top. The best bet is to flatten at least the top and possibly rout the flat slot in the bottom for the legs. The result will be much better than if you don't flatten at least the top. It appears that you have enough slab thickness to flatten the top. If you don't have the tools to easily do this, maybe a local millwork shop has the equipment to do it. I am wrestling with a much thinner slab that is a beautiful piece of wood but has just enough twist in it to cause a problem. I don't have enough thickness left to flatten the top completely so I am probably going to make a shorter table because the twist will definitely be noticeable once done and there is no easy way to force thicker wood to straighten out to conform to the base.