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Damon777 last won the day on October 24 2018

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About Damon777

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Just getting started in furniture building. Restoring and using vintage industrial equipment. Hope to get into turning once the lathe is done.

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  1. I love my VFD equipped 3 phase uni. I am machine dork though, and enjoy going through them.
  2. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/tls/d/powermatic-10-table-saw/6789308688.html https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/tls/d/shell-lake-powermatic-72-table-saw/6769612376.html https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/d/rogers-rockwell-unisaw-biesmeyer-fence/6780554452.html Sorry, I had to... Actually, I should call on that unisaw, rob the fence and extension table for mine and flip it for even money with my fence installed.
  3. I would agree that there is something amiss between the ground and neutral circuits somewhere. The first couple of things I would check would be the wire nut on the white wire inside the unit and the ground connection, as seen on the wiring diagram: https://content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/708620B_man_EN.pdf I don't know how they are doing the motor switching in the PCB, but if there is a direct link between the incoming hot and one of the motor leads, a ground/neutral issue in the shop wiring could do something like this. You can get a receptacle tester for a few bucks at any of the big boxes. This may reveal a problem at the receptacle, specifically any ground/neutral issues. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/206212329?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D27E|27-11_TOOLS_%26_ACCESSORIES|NA|PLA|71700000034238984|58700003943782712|92700031954542185&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjszhBRDgARIsAH8KgvcwEVc7j6pvAmHeyfiyA4u23CAGNUUJ3C2lQlbVKWv-kfCYQxUhop4aAgtuEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Damon
  4. I am thinking I just rebuild these tops, now that they have been sanded fairly thin. I may try the flip and such just to see what happens.
  5. They were sitting on top of the bases, with basically only the legs touching them, just like the pics above. The first time they were convex up, after sanding they moved to convex down a day or so later. It isn't the best wood, so that may have a lot to do with it as well.
  6. Did you crown the tires after you installed them? I assume you already checked here for a manual for your machine. Some digging on owwm.org may help as well. To contribute to the restoration of bandsaws, I did this 890 a few years back. My first machine resto. Before pic: After: I have better after pics around somewhere, just not here.
  7. I suppose I should update this thread... I had to put this project on hold for a while because it got too cold to finish in the (uninsulated) shop. However, I am correcting the insulation issue now. Walls are insulated, and I am awaiting steel for the ceiling so I can blow the insulation in up there. Anyway, I moved the tables inside so I didn't damage them during construction. Now that I am waiting, I decided to try and get them finished while I have a break in the construction action. My furnace will keep the shop warm as well. The tops were not quite flat, and in fact developed a slight bow while sitting inside for a month. My mentor friend offered up hid drum sander, so I took them over and we flattened them. Cool, we were in business again. I took them home and set them with the bases in my finished basement. I go back down this weekend (we sanded last week) to pull them out, and the tops warped in the opposite direction. I will be rebuilding them, with more attention paid to lumber selection this time. I glued them up so that the "curve" to the endgrain opposed the next board for the most part, but this bow one way then go opposite has us both puzzled. Any sage words from you guys?
  8. I have plenty of space in my shop to move it around. It will end up non-mobile eventually anyway. Better casters would probably help as well.
  9. My jointer is 84" long. It's way easier to maneuver from one end, and the 4 swivels make it a bear to steer at times.
  10. I would prefer two fixed wheels on my 8" BC. 4 swivel casters is a bear to drive from one end of it. It would be better for one end to steer.
  11. I buy T20, T25, and #2 Phillips by the 25 pack. Don't use any others enough to warrant it. I've had good luck with the Masterforce brand at Menards on these, but the last Phillips pack I picked up was Milwaukee as I needed them now and ACE is closer than Menards.
  12. I am a hobbyist. I did not have any this summer, as I lost both of my swarms over last winter. Winter is rough around here, and I am about 50% on if I can get the bees through. I did take a couple of short courses at the UofM on cold climate beekeeping, so I am not going in "blind". (My grandfather and father also had bees for a while, but I wasn't interested when they were doing it.) I have not had any colonies collapse during the summer that I cannot attribute to mites, or losing a queen without sufficient brood/workers to make a new one. Winter losses were either mites or not enough honey to keep them alive all winter. I do post-mortem in the spring when I go out to open the hives up for the year. As far as moving around, when I purchase packages, they come from Mississippi or California. I lean more toward what is used for pesticides in commercial crops causing it around here. In my first beekeeping class, there was a bit of a push against neonicotinoids in crops by one of the professors. A couple of years later when I took the second year class, she said that the attitude had changed regarding these in this area. She suggested not advocating for the ban of these pesticides in non-ornamental plants, as we know how to deal with them from a beekeeping perspective, and who knows what they will come up with next if neonics are outlawed. If you have netflix, I believe this is still on there: https://www.vanishingbees.com/ It's older, and maybe a bit "eclectic", but I feel that it presents a good theory on what is going on with colony collapse. Fortunately for me, I live in an area with sufficient flowering plants that aren't crops so I don't really worry about it. The neighbor's apple trees have gone ballistic since we moved in, though. Our yard is about 5% white clover, and I am fine with that. I also don't kill dandelions in the spring, as those (along with maple trees) are one of the first honeybee food sources of the spring. Sorry for all of the beekeeping stuff on a woodworking forum... This I knew. I was more asking about durability vs. just salad bowl oil and the like.
  13. You guys who use MO and beeswax, would this also apply to spoons and rolling pins, etc? I am also a beekeeper, and have a bit of wax around typically.
  14. They have it at Menards as well. https://www.menards.com/main/paint/interior-paint-stain/wood-conditioners-oils/howard-butcher-block-conditioner-12-oz/bbwaxbbc012/p-1444433595089-c-13129.htm?tid=7245082855961612073&ipos=6
  15. You could go ahead and just do these. My wife has requested similar benches to replace our dining room chairs and this is the exact image I sent her for approval. I could use some pointers. The table is amazing as well.