Wimayo

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About Wimayo

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. Those fittings are usually tapered a bit and they wedge themselves together with a push and a twist. I bought some new ones some years ago that, like yours, would not stay together. I finally discovered that I could my heat gun to warm (Be careful. Don't over do it) the female member of each pair and then gently press them together with a gentle twist. This reshaped them just enough that they would then stay put.
  2. I can't add much to the excellent advice you have gotten above. I would just add a reminder to be sure you have a coat or two of a clear finish over any sample stain color in order to see it the same way as it will be on the finished piece. A spray can of clear lacquer, poly, or even shellac is useful for this. Of course, it is best to use the same as what will be used on the final.
  3. Make the support leg as a bi-fold much like Mark j shows. Only, hinge it to the cabinet in the middle. Your top is thick enough and rigid enough that the support doesn't have to come all the way to the end. 2/3-3/4 is probably enough. The bottom stretcher can be easily moved up (maybe 1/2 way) to avoid being kicked but, it should not be eliminated. I agree that some kind of "catch" device to hold the support into position would be good.
  4. I assume you are gluing all of the pieces down to the substrate we have been discussing. To keep from having to deal with one huge unwieldy piece, I would rather have it in 4 smaller pieces. On that basis, I would cut the edge pieces to provide a straight edge on each quadrant. When hung, the 4 pieces don't even have to come close together. Having a small gap will not only be easier but, will add some visual interest.
  5. Another way to do it would be to make it in 4 separate frames and hang them adjacent to each other. The puzzle picture already has 4 quadrants. Why not mount and frame accordingly. The 4 mounts could actually be frameless or have very thin frames and you could hang them as close or as far apart as you like (think about very large TV screens that are actually multiple modules). 1/4 plywood would probably be perfectly adequate for this.
  6. Handsome box. I think three 3/16" to 1/4" dowels would work just fine.
  7. I will usually save longer hardwood waste from rip cuts (maybe 18" and longer) even if they are only an inch or two wide. I may later edge glue these together to make planks from which I can later cut interior casework pieces. I don't get too compulsive about it but, it does keep me from throwing out a significant amount of expensive lumber. But then, I'm a hobbyist, not a commercial shop.
  8. That depends. Generally, yes. More info??
  9. Could the cam lever be on backwards?
  10. I'm an only familiar with my Bessy fence. So, this may not help much. My cam lever actually bears on a steel "finger" that swings down to a position between the cam and rail. If I remove the fence and then put it back on, sometimes the finger does not swing down properly and then my cam lever will do what yours is doing. Since your fence is new, maybe paint or something is causing your "finger", if it has one, to stay up. Check it closely to see if there should be something between the fence rail and cam lever. Could you have a missing part? Do you have a parts diagram? I checked a parts diagram and it looks like your system does have the "finger" I mentioned. That finger should also have a plastic or nylon face on it. If either of those are missing, your cam will not lock down tight.
  11. When my Bessy fence is locked, the locking handle is down below horizontal. I assume yours should be the same way. If not, I wonder if your adjusting screws are way too tight not allowing the cam to rotate all the way to locking position. Also, mine has a "finger" that drops down between the rail and the cam. If yours has the same, maybe there are some issues with that.
  12. Had this not been so irritating at the time, I would laugh. This house has cedar clapboard siding that is nailed over 1" foam board sheathing. A short time after buying the house, I found a couple of clapboards that were loose. Not a problem a couple of nails won't fix. Right? Nooo! In the process of fixing the "loose" ones, I found that all were loose. With few exceptions, the nails holding the clapboards on were only driven into the foam board. Those that did find a stud were too short and penetrated only about 1/4". I spent two-three days re-nailing all of the clapboards with longer nails.
  13. I think you are too late. See this. Not blank, but you can write on it.
  14. Using the foam board is the best idea. However, if you have a pretty good stand of grass in your yard, you can just lay your plywood out on the lawn and then cut it. The grass well serve a similar purpose as the foam. Of course, keep your depth of cut at a minimum.
  15. I don't know the answer for sure. However, I would experiment on another piece of similar wood and see what happens. I know that doesn't help much if you are in a hurry to know.