Wimayo

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About Wimayo

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. Other than being free of cracks, splits, checks, as Chestnut pointed out, your choices would be a matter of appearance. If you don't already know, do some research on white oak flat sawn vs. rift sawn vs. quarter sawn. Each will give you a completely different look.
  2. I have sprayed quite a bit of WB poly and shellac with the 1.3 and 1.5 tips. I don't have professional level experience but, I think it does a very nice job. I have another gun of the same model with a 2.0mm tip that I use for latex. All it takes is some moderate thinning and a little Floetrol to get a nice finish. I'm using a California Air 10 gal compressor w/6.4cfm capacity and i usually have the pressure at the gun set to about 20 psi; higher for latex.
  3. Just this year I started spraying my projects where I can. Like you, I don't spray a lot; perhaps 2-3 projects per year. So, I didn't want to invest lots of money and I wanted something that worked with my smallish compressor. While looking for the "best" spray guns, I came across LVLP (low volume low pressure). These guns work with low volume and low pressure compressors and I find them to be perfect for the work I do. The Sprayit brand is a place to start for comparison. These are inexpensive but, I find that they do a really good job. The two I have work with only 4.2 cfm which corresponds to pretty small compressors. Unfortunately, a web search for LVLP spray guns will be somewhat frustrating as it will also turn up lots of HVLP guns as well. Just watch the specs.
  4. I have purchased hardwoods from this company in Mobile (not far from you). I think that their prices are at least competitive. You might check them out. BTW, they will sell you any quantity from one board to a truck load. This is unusual around here.
  5. I agree with drzaius. My advice if you want to save money and get good results is to go an isle or two over at your big box and get some of their 1x pine shelving lumber. Or, spend a bit more and get some poplar. In either case, painting will give best results. However, if you must stain, apply a coat of Seal Coat shellac, sand it smooth, and then use an oil based gel stain. Good luck.
  6. My complements on a creative solution. However, I must say that I fail to see $300 worth of advantage over a simple egg beater type attachment on an electric drill. Sorry.
  7. In this dilemma, I would do the following: Sand the existing poly finish lightly (220 grit) just to give the surface some "tooth". Get some gel stain. I think oil based would be best. Try General Finishes brand. Color maybe should be a shade darker than what you have now. Apply the stain per directions. As you wipe it off you can blend it so that it evens out the color disparity you have now; wipe off a bit more on the dark areas and wipe off less in the lighter areas. Let it dry at least 24 hours and then apply a light coat of de-waxed shellac from a spray can (to keep from lifting and smearing the stain). Apply 2-3 coats of poly per directions. Good luck
  8. Did you check the thickness of the tape; 7 mil (.007"). For me, to get an almost permanent solution, I would be willing to shave a little if necessary.
  9. I will second what G Ragatz said regarding grain orientation. If you try to make the front, back, and end panels with the grain horizontal, you will create a cross grain situation between these panels and the corner posts. This could cause splitting sometime in the future. To do it that way, you will need to build these components as frames with floating panels. Look up "frame and panel construction" and you will find lots of info on how to do it.
  10. I second the use of a center guide. I made a chest of drawers a number of years ago with drawers far wider than the front to back dimensions. No way I could keep them from racking and binding. A center guide fixed it and I also used some of the slippery plastic tape (HDPE ?) on the drawer rails. They are smooth as silk.
  11. The figure 8s are a good idea. You could probably mount 2 or 3 for extra strength on each leg and they would not be seen. You could also use corner brackets, something like these, on the inside corners of the legs.
  12. You say that you don't have or want a large compressor. "Large" is relative. So, it is hard to advise. However, if you are talking about the "pancake" or "hotdog" style small compressors, you may need to look at LVLP guns (low volume low pressure). I purchased a very inexpensive one a short time ago that requires only 4 cfm and it works great with my 2 hp 10 gal California Air compressor. I find the quality of the inexpensive one adequate for my purposes. However, there are better quality ones on the market. Just do a search for LVLP.
  13. That is the way I understood the OP. The coating doesn't need to survive the boiling test. It just must not emit any toxins. That is why I suggested shellac. I understand it is frequently used in the food industry as a glaze or other coating as with certain candies. Of course, the OP would need to be certain that the shellac was completely natural and contained no toxic additives.
  14. I'm no chemist or finishing expert but, my understanding is that shellac is safe. If I understand your criteria correctly, the finish does not necessarily have to survive the boiling but, just not emit any toxins. If correct, then shellac might meet your requirements.