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    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. I was about ready to write the same thing. Make a new leg and then try to spread out the spacing on all of those dowels if you can. I wonder if you could make a mortise and tenon on one side and dowels on the other. That might be stronger. It doesn't appear that the legs have any rungs further down to provide reinforcement. Lots of stress on that joint.
  2. I agree. The moving company should take total responsibility for replacing the mirror and having it mounted into the headboard. You should not have to lift a finger to correct their mistake in any way. And, it should be done properly. If the mirror they provided is too thick, they should provide a proper one. Trying to modify the headboard to accommodate the wrong thickness carries the possibility of doing irreversible damage. Insist that the moving company take it to a respectable repair shop and have them acquire the correct mirror and replace it. Sorry for your loss.
  3. I strongly recommend that you do some research into LVLP spray guns. For spraying furniture, I think they have some advantages; particularly for the hobbyist or non professional: They can be run on small low volume home compressors of about 4 cfm and up. They put out less material so you can work more slowly and calmly. They have small soft spray patterns so there is less over spray and less concern for runs and drips. They look and feel like HVLP conversion guns and, it seems, most on the web can't give you a good distinction between them, but this site does a pretty good job and is a good place to start: https://www.besthvlpspraygun.com/comparison/lvlp-vs-hvlp/ I use an inexpensive SprayIt model sold by Home Depot, California Air, and maybe others. It is a side feed swivel cup model that allows spraying in any position. https://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/ sells some more expensive units. This site also has some information explaining the differences. So far, I have used mine mainly for WB poly and shellac and it does a beautiful job. It should do just as well with lacquer.
  4. If I may add a word or two of caution. You mentioned the possibility of reducing the foot print. Be aware that band saws tend to be top heavy. I would not reduce the foot print more than it already is. Putting the motor under the saw will help with this, but it will eat up storage space if that is what you are looking for. If storage space protected from dust is your objective, an easy way to do that is to just cover the sides of what you have with 1/4" plywood or similar.
  5. There are a lot of vinyl repair products on the market similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Leather-Repair-Kit-Furniture/dp/B07ZN8JK88/ref=sr_1_42?crid=CL22X495X70C&keywords=vinyl+dye&qid=1646581790&sprefix=vinyl+dye%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-42
  6. Sure. But, with commercial ones readily available at reasonable cost, it is not worth the time. I would rather be doing something else.
  7. I have some blast gates that don't look quite the same, but are probably made of similar plastic. I have had a couple come apart as you describe and I re-glued them using E6000 and 3 small sheet metal screws on each side. Be sure not to get any glue on the sliding area.
  8. That is absolutely true if you are well versed in the CAD commands for the program you are using. If you are a bit fuzzy on these commands, you can waste a lot of time and patients trying to make the system do what you want. Sometimes it is quicker and easier to just push around some paper cut-outs representing furniture and equipment within a hand drawn floor plan. Just say'n...... Not knocking CAD.
  9. Sorry. I'm a bit late coming to this thread. Yes. I have used both the stoploss and the drink bags and both work well even though the openings are a bit small and more difficult to work with than they should be. I have also used heavy duty food storage bags. I usually double up on those and then stuff them back into the original can for easy storage and easy identification. All of these methods allow removing the excess air from the container and enable longer storage without degradation of the finish.
  10. Has anyone here ever used pencil, paper, with T-square and triangle?
  11. I have used the 1:1:1 mix with japan drier many times and really like it. I'm not knocking wipe on poly, but it is not the same. I have never had the problem you experienced. I tend to agree that it was likely the temperature. Don't give up on it. It makes a great finish. Did you know that you can substitute pure tung oil for the blo. It has a color a bit lighter than the blo. You can also sub turpentine for the ms. Not sure that this has any advantage, but I like the smell of it better.
  12. Bradpotts. Sorry to disagree. I believe that flipper doors slide up into the top. Pocket doors slide into the side. Not sure, but I think the mechanisms are different.
  13. Those upper doors are a shop design that consists of a horizontal slider on rails that are level with the top of the opening. The doors are then hung on piano hinges from the leading edge of the slider. You just lift them up and then push them back along the slider rails. Barrister book case doors work in a similar fashion except they use mechanical hardware. I think the mechanical ones that you see in kitchen cabinets are referred to as "flipper doors". Here is one link: https://www.sugatsune.com/product/flipper-door-mechanism/
  14. Who are you addressing the question to?
  15. I read through the above comments quickly. So, if someone already suggested this, I apologize for the repeat. When prepping boards for a panel glue-up I always alternate face in and face out as I pass them over the jointer. When I have all of the boards layed out on the table the way I want them, I mark them alternatively "in" and "out". Then when I pass them over the jointer, the "in" faces go against the jointer fence and the "out" faces are away from the fence. This compensates for any slight "out of squareness" and makes your joints much tighter. Hope this helps.