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About Wimayo

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. I did this years ago to some aluminum folding chairs probably similar to yours. I used 1/4" thick by about 2" wide cypress slats. I used aluminum pop rivets to fasten the slats to the aluminum tubing. I added some aluminum strap to the chair where there was nothing to fasten the slats to like at the bottom of the back. The slats were then stained. They have held up well for many years. However, as they are folded up when not in use, they are not generally subject to the weather. I think the ash suggestion is a good one, but I'm not convinced the species matters too much as long as the slats ar
  2. Before you do anything else, try oxalic acid. That might remove the stains.
  3. I think that a lot of the quality you get from a spray can depends on the spray nozzle. Some have a nozzle that produces a nice fan shaped spray and these do a very good job. I have mostly found these on automotive spray paint which, by the way, can be used on wood and give very good results; particularly if you apply a automotive primer first.
  4. I don't think either rivets or glue is the best way to do that. Both will fail under stretching stresses. IMHO, it would be best to just use two straps with their own end hooks anchored at the same points or put a single hook through two moulded ends of two straps and let them stretch independently.
  5. You don't say what the final use will be. However, super glue adheres to rubber quite well but, will likely not withstand much stretching. If all you need is to double the thickness, it will probably work well. If the rubber then needs to stretch, then it is probably not what you want. If you are just trying to fix a break and don't need the double thickness, you may be able to use super glue to butt the two pieces together. Again, it may not withstand a lot of stretch.
  6. Can the edge trim be removed? If so, you will be able to see the veneer edge if there is one. Also, take a close look at the bottom. Sand it to bare wood if necessary. Does the wood grain and color look the same? It is common for veneered work to have veneer on both sides. However, the bottom may be of a different species or, may be a totally different grain pattern of the same species. If this is the case, you probably have veneer on the top. You might also use a small sharp chisel to "lift" a small sample on the bottom to check for veneer. If there is veneer on the bottom, there is vene
  7. Before you do any more sanding, make sure that is not veneer rather than solid wood. It doesn't take much to sand through thin veneer. It could be just a natural dark place in the wood. However, if you think it could be some kind of stain, you might try a wood bleach. Oxalic acid is a one part bleach that is inexpensive and easy to use. If that does nothing, you might try a two part bleach (sometimes referred to as A-B bleach). If it is veneer and the bleach doesn't work, you will need to use a toner (colored finish) to blend it in. Or, just leave it alone. What did it look like before yo
  8. Other than being free of cracks, splits, checks, as Chestnut pointed out, your choices would be a matter of appearance. If you don't already know, do some research on white oak flat sawn vs. rift sawn vs. quarter sawn. Each will give you a completely different look.
  9. I have sprayed quite a bit of WB poly and shellac with the 1.3 and 1.5 tips. I don't have professional level experience but, I think it does a very nice job. I have another gun of the same model with a 2.0mm tip that I use for latex. All it takes is some moderate thinning and a little Floetrol to get a nice finish. I'm using a California Air 10 gal compressor w/6.4cfm capacity and i usually have the pressure at the gun set to about 20 psi; higher for latex.
  10. Just this year I started spraying my projects where I can. Like you, I don't spray a lot; perhaps 2-3 projects per year. So, I didn't want to invest lots of money and I wanted something that worked with my smallish compressor. While looking for the "best" spray guns, I came across LVLP (low volume low pressure). These guns work with low volume and low pressure compressors and I find them to be perfect for the work I do. The Sprayit brand is a place to start for comparison. These are inexpensive but, I find that they do a really good job. The two I have work with only 4.2 cfm which corresponds
  11. I have purchased hardwoods from this company in Mobile (not far from you). I think that their prices are at least competitive. You might check them out. BTW, they will sell you any quantity from one board to a truck load. This is unusual around here.
  12. I agree with drzaius. My advice if you want to save money and get good results is to go an isle or two over at your big box and get some of their 1x pine shelving lumber. Or, spend a bit more and get some poplar. In either case, painting will give best results. However, if you must stain, apply a coat of Seal Coat shellac, sand it smooth, and then use an oil based gel stain. Good luck.
  13. My complements on a creative solution. However, I must say that I fail to see $300 worth of advantage over a simple egg beater type attachment on an electric drill. Sorry.
  14. In this dilemma, I would do the following: Sand the existing poly finish lightly (220 grit) just to give the surface some "tooth". Get some gel stain. I think oil based would be best. Try General Finishes brand. Color maybe should be a shade darker than what you have now. Apply the stain per directions. As you wipe it off you can blend it so that it evens out the color disparity you have now; wipe off a bit more on the dark areas and wipe off less in the lighter areas. Let it dry at least 24 hours and then apply a light coat of de-waxed shellac from a spray can (to keep fro
  15. Did you check the thickness of the tape; 7 mil (.007"). For me, to get an almost permanent solution, I would be willing to shave a little if necessary.