Wimayo

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About Wimayo

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. Had this not been so irritating at the time, I would laugh. This house has cedar clapboard siding that is nailed over 1" foam board sheathing. A short time after buying the house, I found a couple of clapboards that were loose. Not a problem a couple of nails won't fix. Right? Nooo! In the process of fixing the "loose" ones, I found that all were loose. With few exceptions, the nails holding the clapboards on were only driven into the foam board. Those that did find a stud were too short and penetrated only about 1/4". I spent two-three days re-nailing all of the clapboards with longer nails.
  2. I think you are too late. See this. Not blank, but you can write on it.
  3. Using the foam board is the best idea. However, if you have a pretty good stand of grass in your yard, you can just lay your plywood out on the lawn and then cut it. The grass well serve a similar purpose as the foam. Of course, keep your depth of cut at a minimum.
  4. I don't know the answer for sure. However, I would experiment on another piece of similar wood and see what happens. I know that doesn't help much if you are in a hurry to know.
  5. Sorry for being a bit off topic, but I must comment. If one is going to "go all metric" you should, indeed, go all in including making mental adjustments. And, I have found, that the latter is the most difficult part. I have acquired metric measuring tools including tapes, and rulers, that meet most of my needs so that conversions are not necessary. They are not difficult to find (Lee Valley has a lot). Granted, until the rest of the U.S. goes metric, you will have times when fitting non-metric hardware (for example) may require some conversion. But, If I'm doing a metric project, I commit to it and avoid conversions unless forced into it. As I said, the mental part is the most difficult. It is hard to learn to "think" metric. From experience, you can hold up your fingers and show me about how much 12" is. Can you show me how much 10cm is? Your first metric project will be difficult because of this; not because of the measuring tools. Once you get used to "thinking" metric, you will probably like it. The arithmetic is a lot easier than using fractions. Of course, you can use decimal inches if you like. But, I've found that instruments with those increments are more difficult to find.
  6. Do these hooks have some special features that you must have for a certain purpose? Or, are you just looking for some hooks that stay put? If the latter, I can help you with a method I use to hold any hook in place without much, if any, wiggle. Go to This forum thread and scroll all the way down to the last comment.
  7. What is special about them?
  8. I think the best way to do this is to laminate your curved piece. Of course, you will need to use an exterior glue.
  9. Using the method I suggested would be easier to do (and probably quicker) by doing it one "layer' at a time. Each horizontal "shelf" can be pre-cut and dropped into place onto the prepared supports. Because everything is supported around the perimeter by the stud walls, there is no concern with rigidity issues. If you put each vertical mid support over the top of the one below, the load is still transferred to the floor. There is nothing against using full height mid supports. However, then you have to futz around with individual supports for all the small shelves. If you want those to be adjustable, then that is the way you would want to do it. Just be sure you install your adjustable support system prior to or as you install the verticals. I think the support system would be more difficult to install after the fact. This is only an alternative way of building the project. If you prefer to pre-build your box before installation, I think you should consider doing it with at least two separate units. This will require more material because you are no longer using the existing stud walls for part of the structure. I would likely build the upper units like a kitchen cupboard and hang them using french cleats. Because you won't have the floor to help support them, they need to be structurally more self supporting.
  10. I am assuming that the three walls of the "closet" are stud walls with drywall covering. I would use the walls for the main support for your bench. Do this by attaching ledger strips (1x2) to the studs with either screws or nails for each horizontal shelf. Make the ledger strips continuous all around the three sides and make sure they are level. Make the vertical supports only tall enough to support each shelf rather than full height. This would be a good place to use pocket screws to fasten them at the bottom. The top can be fastened by using finish nails down through the next shelf. Continue building up one level at a time until complete. Counter sink any exposed nail heads and fill exposed pocket holes with plugs, sand and paint. Keep in mind that your stud walls are probably not perfectly square, particularly in the corners. So, depending on how precisely you want your shelves to fit, you may want to make a cardboard template to follow for cutting your shelves; particularly the top one. A small molding will work well for concealing any remaining gaps.
  11. I don't claim to be an expert. This is the first time I've tried it. I sprayed an old rocker with garnet shellac with some medium brown Transtint mixed in. I wanted the rocker to be a redish brown and was concerned, due to the nature of the wood, that a stain would result in very uneven color. I tested the color on some scraps as I added the Transtint until I got the color I wanted. The resulting mix, of course, gets darker as coats are added. It has worked out pretty well. I will add a couple of coats of clear top coat tomorrow.
  12. +1 Waterlox is a super easy finish to apply. My understanding is that the contents are very similar to the BLO, MS, Varnish mix. Both are great finishes for beginners. However, neither is as durable or spill resistant as poly.
  13. I think one of the easiest finishes to use is the old time equal parts mix of boiled linseed oil, mineral spirits, and varnish. Great for a beginner. It is reasonably durable and very easy to apply. I apply it with a folded piece of blue paper towel. It dries slowly enough that you don't have to hurry and this allows you to backup and correct mistakes if needed. There is lots of information on the net about it. You can substitute tung oil if you want a lighter amber color. You can also substitute turpentine for MS and poly for varnish.
  14. I just throw enough pieces of scrap wood in mine to hold it down.
  15. Nice looking project. These doors are 2" wide vertical veneer strips over solid material. I'm not totally pleased with it, but there have been no problems.