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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. If you have an old blade, do some practice joints first. Even some strips of scrap about the same thickness would work for this. I've found that 55% silver brazing material works the best. Check ebay.
  2. Not what you asked, but it is easy to do yourself with a propane torch and silver brazing materil. I've done it many times. Check out youtube videos on the subject
  3. I would be inclined to use some of the prepared wood floor cleaners that only require spraying and wiping. This would avoid over wetting the bare portions that would, at minimum, cause grain raising, or could cause some warping. I have a bottle of the Bruce brand that works this way. I'm sure there are others.
  4. 3-4 coats w/ sanding lightly between coats. For a table like you describe, I think poly would be more durable.
  5. A number of years ago I finished a chest with Deft using a brush. I don't know if the Deft product is considered a brushing lacquer or not. The first coat went on just fine. Subsequent coats had to be quick with minimal brushing strokes because the subsequent coats always desolve into the first. Brushing lacquers are formulated to minimize that problem somehow. Save yourself some trouble and use spray cans; even if it costs more.
  6. Wimayo


    Just use common zip lock bags and then put that bag into a second bag for security. These are a bit less convenient to use, but it works the same.
  7. Wimayo


    I've used both. Those work just as well as the Stop Loss except that the spout is smaller and a bit more difficult to work with.
  8. Equal parts of tung oil (or BLO), mineral spirits (or turpentine), and gloss poly. I used this on a cherry chest 25 years ago and it still looks great. Wipe on thin coats using a folded blue towel.
  9. Wimayo


    I have used them and, as stated, they are kind of a pain to fill, but they do what is needed as far as storage is concerned. I have also used ordinary heavy duty freezer bags. Because of the wider opening, you have to use a little more care, but they are certainly cheaper. I fill a bag, close it up, and then put it inside another. I have sometimes cleaned out the original can and put the bags in it for protection and for easier identification. Either way it helps a lot to have something to hold the bags while you fill them.
  10. That is a very unique looking table. As stated above, I would embrace it. Continue sanding through all the grits up through 220 grit. Then apply 2-3 coats of poly. I don't think epoxy will give you any added benefit. Whether you put any stain on it first is your choice. Maybe you could do a test patch on the bottom.
  11. I would add to this that magnetic switches are good. These assure that if the machine goes off due to a power outage, it doesn't come back on after the power returns. https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71054-Magnetic-Paddle-Switch/dp/B01IEM2DSM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=16ZJ8BUMP91TU&keywords=magnetic+paddle+switch&qid=1657743228&sprefix=magnetic+paddle+%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-3
  12. Wimayo

    Oxalic acid

    I have used oxalic acid a number of times and I can't recall ever having an issue with it. I think I have always just washed it off with lots of water. The last time was an old white oak desk restoration that had lots of dark stains. I used oxalic acid and then just scrubbed the pieces with running water and a brush. The new finish is shellac and WB poly. No problems after about a year. I can't claim that the shellac was necessary due to using the oxalic acid.
  13. That's what I would do. I might consider cutting the dado before I cut the piece down to overall size so that I would have a larger piece to work with. I might also take Ragatz's advice.
  14. I agree with using clear. It lets some color show through and ends up with some variation of dark and light which looks a bit more natural. I also agree with coop in that this is somewhat less successful with large voids. However, you can add some fine sanding dust to the epoxy to add a bit of color. Don't add much. You want the epoxy to retain some translucence. In this instance, I think you will be happy using just clear.
  15. Without further discussing the merits of the mdf torsion box, If I thought that I might need more holes sometime in the future, I would install a continuous wide spacer in my torsion box along the line where the dog holes will be.