Wimayo

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About Wimayo

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. I agree that maple would be your best choice. However, if that is a problem for some reason, you might experiment with another fine grained light colored wood like poplar or basswood to see if you can get it to look close enough. To answer more directly, you can reduce absorption by applying a wash coat of thinned shellac to wood before applying the stain. You can also use a dye like Transtint and mix it more or less concentrated until you get the color or intensity you like. However, like every one else has said, oak will never look like maple.
  2. Do a google search and you will find their web page. At the bottom is a "contact us". Click it and you will have an opportunity to send them a message or an email.
  3. I tend to agree with wtnhighlander. However, sorry for my paranoia. I have made this mistake and would like to help you keep from making it. Just to be sure about the veneer, if you can find a manufacturer's label or stamp (probably on the underside of the top), you could contact them to see if it is actually a veneer. Also, try looking at the very edge where the leaves join one another with strong magnifying lens (a 10x jewelers loop works well) look to see if you can see a telltale "layering" or glue line separating the substrate from the veneer. Sometimes this is obvious even to the naked eye. One thing that could be misleading is that even if the main part of the top is veneer, it is quite possible that the edge boards (where the damaged area is) are solid. The bullnosed edge would be a strong indicator of that. So, don't let the appearance of the damage spot tell you anything about the rest of the table surface. Also, the fact of the edge board which is cross-grain to the central part of the table is a very strong indicator that the top is veneered. Because of wood movement issues under changing temp/humidity conditions, no knowledgeable wood worker or manufacturer would do that with solid wood. Of course, they could be assembled as breadboard ends. I doubt it. I would wager that the edge boards are solid wood and the central part is veneered particle board or MDF. I must respectfully disagree with Ronn W. The table I almost ruined had the same veneer on the bottom and that is why I almost ruined it. And, it is common for good quality veneered furniture to be veneered on both sides for stability. However, he makes a good point about using the underside to experiment. I suggest that you use a small chisel to gouge a small hole in the bottom of one of the table leaves. Go about 3/16" to 1/4" deep and make sure you have a clean smooth cut on the side. If you find solid wood (oak) without a veneer, this would be a good sign but no guarantee. If you find particle board or MDF under a veneer, you can be sure it is also a veneered top. If you are still unsure, try taking a leaf to a local woodworking shop and see if they can make the determination for you. Pay them for their time. Please let us know how it works out. Good luck.
  4. Be very careful. When you have a top with grain running all different directions (like puzzle pieces?) separated with straight or curved edges, it is likely that you have thin veneer. It is very easy to sand through the veneer and expose the sub-straight. Then the top will be very difficult to repair. A photo might help us some.
  5. Wimayo

    Squeaking table

    I like paraffin but, I find it rather crumbly and it can make a mess if you are not careful. Also, because it is solid, it is difficult to get into tight spaces where you need it. For the last year or so, I have been using the wax from a toilet wax seal. They are cheap at the big box store and the wax is soft enough that it can be brushed into tight spaces with a small acid brush or, likewise, spread onto flat surfaces with the brush.
  6. What you are doing is making your own danish oil and that is fine. I have used a similar mix and like the results. The process of using this mix requires that you wipe or brush it on, let it sit and soak in for a while, and then, before it starts to get tacky, wipe it off with a dry towel or cloth. If you don't do this, it is likely to cause the problem you are having. Following this procedure, it should dry and be ready for another coat in 12-24 hours. You can also add some japan drier to the mix to speed it up. Be sure you follow the instructions on the japan drier container. It doesn't take much.
  7. I've made my own shims out of various thicknesses of plastic from lids or other packaging. You can check the thickness with your calipers and be close enough. The plastic is soft enough that if they do get into the arbor threads, they won't do any harm or have any effect on your cut.
  8. DON'T throw it out. Put your waste into a separate container and let it sit. After a while, the solids will precipitate to the bottom. You can then decant the clear (sorta) stuff and re-use it. The next time you need to clean something, start with the decanted waste and finish up with clean unused. Then pour the waste back into the waste container and do the same again. This way, you can use the same thinner over and over again saving greatly on the amount of waste that is lost. Saves $$ too. The only thing you will need to throw away is the sediment occasionally.
  9. I agree with curlyoak that construction grade lumber will not give good finished results. I'm assuming that you are thinking of using this for mock-up or testing purposes. You will have knots and other defects that will cause problems with good smooth bending.
  10. I think I would just use a few screws through the plywood into the back side of the decorative frame. Expansion/contraction should not be a problem.
  11. The construction lumber should not be difficult to resaw but, your band saw is the weak link here. You might try doing a general tune-up on the Craftsman making sure everything is properly aligned and the blade is properly tensioned. Also, a good sharp 3 tpi resaw blade would be very important. More power would be good but, you may not want to spend the dollars for a larger motor on that saw. If you have an extra motor that runs at the same rpm, you could try to add it in tandem as shown below. You can make an adequate resaw fence out of plywood. So, that should not be a issue If this is a one time project and you don't otherwise use the band saw much, it might be best to fix what you can and make do. Otherwise, it sounds like a good excuse (reason) to buy a bigger better saw. Resawing on the table saw should not be any more dangerous than any other rip cut assuming your narrow strip is on the off cut side. You should be able to rip part way through with one pass and then flip the piece end for end and rip the rest of the way. If the two cuts don't quite meet, finish the cut with a hand saw or saber saw with a long blade. More of your lumber will end up as sawdust this way, however.
  12. I suspect that the difference has to do with grain than anything else. The quarter sawn on the right looks nothing like the sample on the left because it is not quarter sawn but, either flat (plain) sawn or rift cut. It is not unusual for wood of the same species from different different trees to look different. Even so, there is a very distinct difference between quarter sawn and flat sawn. Get some flat or plane sawn veneer and they will look more similar.
  13. Those fittings are usually tapered a bit and they wedge themselves together with a push and a twist. I bought some new ones some years ago that, like yours, would not stay together. I finally discovered that I could my heat gun to warm (Be careful. Don't over do it) the female member of each pair and then gently press them together with a gentle twist. This reshaped them just enough that they would then stay put.
  14. I can't add much to the excellent advice you have gotten above. I would just add a reminder to be sure you have a coat or two of a clear finish over any sample stain color in order to see it the same way as it will be on the finished piece. A spray can of clear lacquer, poly, or even shellac is useful for this. Of course, it is best to use the same as what will be used on the final.
  15. Make the support leg as a bi-fold much like Mark j shows. Only, hinge it to the cabinet in the middle. Your top is thick enough and rigid enough that the support doesn't have to come all the way to the end. 2/3-3/4 is probably enough. The bottom stretcher can be easily moved up (maybe 1/2 way) to avoid being kicked but, it should not be eliminated. I agree that some kind of "catch" device to hold the support into position would be good.