Wimayo

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About Wimayo

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. What you are doing is making your own danish oil and that is fine. I have used a similar mix and like the results. The process of using this mix requires that you wipe or brush it on, let it sit and soak in for a while, and then, before it starts to get tacky, wipe it off with a dry towel or cloth. If you don't do this, it is likely to cause the problem you are having. Following this procedure, it should dry and be ready for another coat in 12-24 hours. You can also add some japan drier to the mix to speed it up. Be sure you follow the instructions on the japan drier container. It doesn't take much.
  2. I've made my own shims out of various thicknesses of plastic from lids or other packaging. You can check the thickness with your calipers and be close enough. The plastic is soft enough that if they do get into the arbor threads, they won't do any harm or have any effect on your cut.
  3. DON'T throw it out. Put your waste into a separate container and let it sit. After a while, the solids will precipitate to the bottom. You can then decant the clear (sorta) stuff and re-use it. The next time you need to clean something, start with the decanted waste and finish up with clean unused. Then pour the waste back into the waste container and do the same again. This way, you can use the same thinner over and over again saving greatly on the amount of waste that is lost. Saves $$ too. The only thing you will need to throw away is the sediment occasionally.
  4. I agree with curlyoak that construction grade lumber will not give good finished results. I'm assuming that you are thinking of using this for mock-up or testing purposes. You will have knots and other defects that will cause problems with good smooth bending.
  5. I think I would just use a few screws through the plywood into the back side of the decorative frame. Expansion/contraction should not be a problem.
  6. The construction lumber should not be difficult to resaw but, your band saw is the weak link here. You might try doing a general tune-up on the Craftsman making sure everything is properly aligned and the blade is properly tensioned. Also, a good sharp 3 tpi resaw blade would be very important. More power would be good but, you may not want to spend the dollars for a larger motor on that saw. If you have an extra motor that runs at the same rpm, you could try to add it in tandem as shown below. You can make an adequate resaw fence out of plywood. So, that should not be a issue If this is a one time project and you don't otherwise use the band saw much, it might be best to fix what you can and make do. Otherwise, it sounds like a good excuse (reason) to buy a bigger better saw. Resawing on the table saw should not be any more dangerous than any other rip cut assuming your narrow strip is on the off cut side. You should be able to rip part way through with one pass and then flip the piece end for end and rip the rest of the way. If the two cuts don't quite meet, finish the cut with a hand saw or saber saw with a long blade. More of your lumber will end up as sawdust this way, however.
  7. I suspect that the difference has to do with grain than anything else. The quarter sawn on the right looks nothing like the sample on the left because it is not quarter sawn but, either flat (plain) sawn or rift cut. It is not unusual for wood of the same species from different different trees to look different. Even so, there is a very distinct difference between quarter sawn and flat sawn. Get some flat or plane sawn veneer and they will look more similar.
  8. Those fittings are usually tapered a bit and they wedge themselves together with a push and a twist. I bought some new ones some years ago that, like yours, would not stay together. I finally discovered that I could my heat gun to warm (Be careful. Don't over do it) the female member of each pair and then gently press them together with a gentle twist. This reshaped them just enough that they would then stay put.
  9. I can't add much to the excellent advice you have gotten above. I would just add a reminder to be sure you have a coat or two of a clear finish over any sample stain color in order to see it the same way as it will be on the finished piece. A spray can of clear lacquer, poly, or even shellac is useful for this. Of course, it is best to use the same as what will be used on the final.
  10. Make the support leg as a bi-fold much like Mark j shows. Only, hinge it to the cabinet in the middle. Your top is thick enough and rigid enough that the support doesn't have to come all the way to the end. 2/3-3/4 is probably enough. The bottom stretcher can be easily moved up (maybe 1/2 way) to avoid being kicked but, it should not be eliminated. I agree that some kind of "catch" device to hold the support into position would be good.
  11. I assume you are gluing all of the pieces down to the substrate we have been discussing. To keep from having to deal with one huge unwieldy piece, I would rather have it in 4 smaller pieces. On that basis, I would cut the edge pieces to provide a straight edge on each quadrant. When hung, the 4 pieces don't even have to come close together. Having a small gap will not only be easier but, will add some visual interest.
  12. Another way to do it would be to make it in 4 separate frames and hang them adjacent to each other. The puzzle picture already has 4 quadrants. Why not mount and frame accordingly. The 4 mounts could actually be frameless or have very thin frames and you could hang them as close or as far apart as you like (think about very large TV screens that are actually multiple modules). 1/4 plywood would probably be perfectly adequate for this.
  13. Handsome box. I think three 3/16" to 1/4" dowels would work just fine.
  14. I will usually save longer hardwood waste from rip cuts (maybe 18" and longer) even if they are only an inch or two wide. I may later edge glue these together to make planks from which I can later cut interior casework pieces. I don't get too compulsive about it but, it does keep me from throwing out a significant amount of expensive lumber. But then, I'm a hobbyist, not a commercial shop.
  15. That depends. Generally, yes. More info??