Wimayo

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About Wimayo

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. The figure 8s are a good idea. You could probably mount 2 or 3 for extra strength on each leg and they would not be seen. You could also use corner brackets, something like these, on the inside corners of the legs.
  2. You say that you don't have or want a large compressor. "Large" is relative. So, it is hard to advise. However, if you are talking about the "pancake" or "hotdog" style small compressors, you may need to look at LVLP guns (low volume low pressure). I purchased a very inexpensive one a short time ago that requires only 4 cfm and it works great with my 2 hp 10 gal California Air compressor. I find the quality of the inexpensive one adequate for my purposes. However, there are better quality ones on the market. Just do a search for LVLP.
  3. I was thinking that it looks a bit like Watco teak oil; kind of a yellowish brown. Experimenting is the way to go. In the end, I don't think it matters if it is a film or oil finish as long as you find the color you want. Also, I don't think the OP will get the same look as the first example because he has sanded it smooth taking out the original milling marks. Thanks for the skip sanding explanation.
  4. My impression is that a clear finish with an amber tone, maybe danish oil, was applied and then the whole top was skip sanded. You can still see the milling marks and areas that look like bare wood.
  5. That is the way I understood the OP. The coating doesn't need to survive the boiling test. It just must not emit any toxins. That is why I suggested shellac. I understand it is frequently used in the food industry as a glaze or other coating as with certain candies. Of course, the OP would need to be certain that the shellac was completely natural and contained no toxic additives.
  6. I'm no chemist or finishing expert but, my understanding is that shellac is safe. If I understand your criteria correctly, the finish does not necessarily have to survive the boiling but, just not emit any toxins. If correct, then shellac might meet your requirements.
  7. All of the finishing guidance I've read about brushes says to use natural bristle for oil base products and man made bristles for water or oil based. Natural bristles puff up and get floppy when wet with water. I think you got good results largely because it is a small project and the bristles weren't wet long enough to lose integrity. As others have said, I too have had good results using folded blue paper towels with wipe-on poly and blo/ms/poly blends.
  8. If there is nothing else on it but danish oil, you can add a darker stain. The danish oil will keep it from darkening as much as it would if you were applying it to bare wood but, it will work. I think your best bet is to use oil based gel stain. Wipe it on and before it starts to stiffen up, start wiping it off. Don't be afraid to leave a little on the surface if it gives you the look you like. Let it dry according to instructions on the can. Once dry, top coat it with a clear finish. For a single shelf, a spray can of clear polyurethane or lacquer will probably be the most convenient.
  9. I haven't used Sketchup for a while but, I think version 2017 is still free. It has most of the functionality of the pay-for version. So, you can try it and learn it before buying. Do a google search for "Sketchup older version".
  10. I agree that maple would be your best choice. However, if that is a problem for some reason, you might experiment with another fine grained light colored wood like poplar or basswood to see if you can get it to look close enough. To answer more directly, you can reduce absorption by applying a wash coat of thinned shellac to wood before applying the stain. You can also use a dye like Transtint and mix it more or less concentrated until you get the color or intensity you like. However, like every one else has said, oak will never look like maple.
  11. Do a google search and you will find their web page. At the bottom is a "contact us". Click it and you will have an opportunity to send them a message or an email.
  12. I tend to agree with wtnhighlander. However, sorry for my paranoia. I have made this mistake and would like to help you keep from making it. Just to be sure about the veneer, if you can find a manufacturer's label or stamp (probably on the underside of the top), you could contact them to see if it is actually a veneer. Also, try looking at the very edge where the leaves join one another with strong magnifying lens (a 10x jewelers loop works well) look to see if you can see a telltale "layering" or glue line separating the substrate from the veneer. Sometimes this is obvious even to the naked eye. One thing that could be misleading is that even if the main part of the top is veneer, it is quite possible that the edge boards (where the damaged area is) are solid. The bullnosed edge would be a strong indicator of that. So, don't let the appearance of the damage spot tell you anything about the rest of the table surface. Also, the fact of the edge board which is cross-grain to the central part of the table is a very strong indicator that the top is veneered. Because of wood movement issues under changing temp/humidity conditions, no knowledgeable wood worker or manufacturer would do that with solid wood. Of course, they could be assembled as breadboard ends. I doubt it. I would wager that the edge boards are solid wood and the central part is veneered particle board or MDF. I must respectfully disagree with Ronn W. The table I almost ruined had the same veneer on the bottom and that is why I almost ruined it. And, it is common for good quality veneered furniture to be veneered on both sides for stability. However, he makes a good point about using the underside to experiment. I suggest that you use a small chisel to gouge a small hole in the bottom of one of the table leaves. Go about 3/16" to 1/4" deep and make sure you have a clean smooth cut on the side. If you find solid wood (oak) without a veneer, this would be a good sign but no guarantee. If you find particle board or MDF under a veneer, you can be sure it is also a veneered top. If you are still unsure, try taking a leaf to a local woodworking shop and see if they can make the determination for you. Pay them for their time. Please let us know how it works out. Good luck.
  13. Be very careful. When you have a top with grain running all different directions (like puzzle pieces?) separated with straight or curved edges, it is likely that you have thin veneer. It is very easy to sand through the veneer and expose the sub-straight. Then the top will be very difficult to repair. A photo might help us some.
  14. Wimayo

    Squeaking table

    I like paraffin but, I find it rather crumbly and it can make a mess if you are not careful. Also, because it is solid, it is difficult to get into tight spaces where you need it. For the last year or so, I have been using the wax from a toilet wax seal. They are cheap at the big box store and the wax is soft enough that it can be brushed into tight spaces with a small acid brush or, likewise, spread onto flat surfaces with the brush.
  15. What you are doing is making your own danish oil and that is fine. I have used a similar mix and like the results. The process of using this mix requires that you wipe or brush it on, let it sit and soak in for a while, and then, before it starts to get tacky, wipe it off with a dry towel or cloth. If you don't do this, it is likely to cause the problem you are having. Following this procedure, it should dry and be ready for another coat in 12-24 hours. You can also add some japan drier to the mix to speed it up. Be sure you follow the instructions on the japan drier container. It doesn't take much.