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About Wimayo

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, turning, home maintenance

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  1. Wimayo

    Sturdier French cleat for shelf

    If the wall is not straight, you will need to shim the wall mounted part of the cleat so that it stays straight. If after screwing it into place it ends up with a bow in it, it won't match up with the bevel on the shelf.
  2. Wimayo

    Sturdier French cleat for shelf

    All good advice above. One other thing to consider is that even if your french cleat were a perfect fit, the shallow height of your shelf will tend to lever the wedges apart when the shelf is loaded. Matching rabbets might work better. Actually, I think the key wedge is a good idea for keeping the cleat from levering apart. Instructions for its use would be simple. I would only add something to keep it in place. Maybe a small screw from underneath. Or, a small screw holding a fender washer against the wedge.
  3. Wimayo

    Joinery Question

    If I understood correctly, your supports will have the grain running the same direction as the top. This means that the supports will have vertical grain. This is good as you would otherwise have a cross grain situation which might cause splitting. Your top piece is getting rather thin to be cutting a dado. However, if you cut it shallow and glue in your support pieces, you should be OK. Especially since your supports won't be seen from the front (and even if they were), I think I would consider using 4 approx. 3/4" dowels for support legs glued into holes about 1" from the front and back edges. simple and quick and should provide enough support.
  4. Wimayo

    Recommendations for planer

    I think the 734 is better than "decent". I have used one for several years. I'm not sure when the 735 came out, but I think I got my 734 just before it did. The 734 does a very smooth job and I almost have to force it to snipe. I have run many many BF (mostly cherry) through it and am still on the original blades. I agree. If you don't want to spend for the 735, you can't go wrong with the 734.
  5. With a basement shop, even with good ventilation, I would recommend that you use water based products to the extent you can. Flammability issues aside, the odors will permeate the whole house. Even after you have finished applying most oil based finishes, they will off-gas for days or weeks while curing. Depending on your sensitivity to odors, this can be a real problem. I refinished a table recently with oil based poly and after drying in the shop for several days, I brought it into the house. My wife could not tolerate the odor and I had to move it to a protected area outside for a while. You should not be concerned about water based finishes. Once cured they are not water soluble.
  6. If I understand your question, you are looking for finishes that you can use inside the house. If that is correct, I would recommend you use a water based polyurethane. These will provide a durable finish without noxious odors that require ventilation. Polycrylic may not be the best of these products, but it is readily available and would be a good one to try. I would not recommend the use of lacquer inside the house. However, I have no experience with water based lacquers. They may be OK. Someone else may address this.
  7. Wimayo

    Make a larger hole

    Sanding down the 21mm dowel or getting a smaller dowel is probably the easiest. If you don't want to do that, use an adjustable circle cutter to cut your holes or purchase a 21mm forstner bit. You could also use a drum sander in your drill press to enlarge the hole.
  8. Wimayo

    Cutting Homosote

    Where does one find homosote these days? I haven't see it for sale anywhere for many years. Oh. I see that the OP is in Canada. I'm assuming it is available there. Don't think so in the US.
  9. Wimayo

    Lifting cabinet saw solo

    While you are buying 2x8s for your ramp, get a few more and build an "A" frame for lifting, with block and tackle, onto the base. Years ago, I did this to lift an engine out and into a car. Works great.
  10. True. My statement was made on the basis of experience and judgement. If in doubt, you could, of course, use some on-line calculators in order to be more precise. Then, the question would be moot. The fact that it is there lends strength to the whole if glued.
  11. Wimayo

    full extension wood drawer slides

    Go to the site I linked above and you can get a free trial membership to FWW. Using this you can see the whole article including drawings. No need to purchase anything.
  12. But why? What is your reason for only gluing part of it. Because it is a "happy medium" does not help some one who is learning the process. There is good reason for the floating panels. There is no good reason for not gluing or partial gluing of the center divider.
  13. Wimayo

    full extension wood drawer slides

    For the slides I linked above: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2000/08/01/full-extension-wooden-slides You will likely find that making one pair is rather tedious. But, once you are set up, it is easier to make several pair.
  14. I respectfully disagree with only partially gluing the center divider. I see no reason for not gluing it in fully. It is not wide enough to cause expansion/contraction problems and fully gluing it will contribute to the over all strength of the headboard; particularly against racking. It appears that the floating panels with space balls will accommodate any wood movement that may occur. If I am too late with my comment, I apologize. It will be OK without fully gluing. Nice looking headboard. Good work.