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Everything posted by Wimayo

  1. Bradpotts. Sorry to disagree. I believe that flipper doors slide up into the top. Pocket doors slide into the side. Not sure, but I think the mechanisms are different.
  2. Those upper doors are a shop design that consists of a horizontal slider on rails that are level with the top of the opening. The doors are then hung on piano hinges from the leading edge of the slider. You just lift them up and then push them back along the slider rails. Barrister book case doors work in a similar fashion except they use mechanical hardware. I think the mechanical ones that you see in kitchen cabinets are referred to as "flipper doors". Here is one link: https://www.sugatsune.com/product/flipper-door-mechanism/
  3. Who are you addressing the question to?
  4. I read through the above comments quickly. So, if someone already suggested this, I apologize for the repeat. When prepping boards for a panel glue-up I always alternate face in and face out as I pass them over the jointer. When I have all of the boards layed out on the table the way I want them, I mark them alternatively "in" and "out". Then when I pass them over the jointer, the "in" faces go against the jointer fence and the "out" faces are away from the fence. This compensates for any slight "out of squareness" and makes your joints much tighter. Hope this helps.
  5. There are a couple of ways you can taper the legs using the 4-piece glue-up method: 1- glue them up as straight and then taper them as you would using solid material. Depending on how much taper, you would want to either start with 5/4 material or fill the center of the lower part of the leg where the components get thin. 2- taper the 4 components as you cut the mitered edges. This way, when they are glued-up, they will end up with the taper you want. With this method, you could use plywood, but filling the center void will be a bit more difficult as it will also be tapered.
  6. I share wtnhighlander's concerns. However, I think it might work if you use a very good grade of 3/4" plywood, similar to baltic birch, use splines in your 45 deg joints, and glue with epoxy. The epoxy is not so much for strength as for extra working time. I also agree that the same method using S4S lumber will give better results and probably for comparable cost to plywood. In addition, using solid wood will allow you to select the wood grain so that all four sides are quarter or rift sawn, if you like.
  7. I have also done it and it works well. It can have a down side in that the color is in the finish rather than the wood. Scratches can be more of an issue. Also, if you are applying several coats, it will tend to mask the wood grain. One or two coats and then clear after that is probably best if that gives you the color you want.
  8. Lots of good advice above. And, I agree, Natural Watco will not appreciably darken the wood. However, in my opinion, the one thing that has been missed here is the conditioner. With the danish oil, the conditioner is not needed and by using it, you have kept the oil from penetrating. Had you not used the conditioner, the oil would have penetrated more completely and would have darkened the wood color more than it has. However, without some color in the oil, It still may not have been to your liking.
  9. As long as the "slats" are not fastened together by any other means, they will expand/contract individually a tiny amount and the gaps shown should be more than adequate to accommodate this. if you use two dominoes at the end of each slat, I'm not sure if glue creep will be adequate to take up seasonal movement or not. You might consider gluing one and leaving the other to "float". If you use just one domino per slat end, gluing should be fine. With boards that narrow, we are talking about a very small amount of movement.
  10. What ever you finish it with, it is going to be a long term maintenance problem. To keep you from have to periodically refinish or repair it, I see two options: get rid of the window; close in the opening. Or, replace it with vinyl a or vinyl clad window and frame.
  11. I generally agree with all of the above comments. I also feel like there could be some kind of contamination. I have seen that problem in my work before and it is usually because of a streak of moisture left after wet sanding. When using an oil based product, I don't use water to wet sand any more. I'm inclined to think that the final wet wipe you did is the cause. Also,did you possibly use a tack cloth to remove dust. Some say they have never had problems using tack cloths. Others say they have and you should never use them. For me, when using an oil based product, I always use a clean rag or towel barely dampened with mineral spirits for the final wipe before applying the next coat. For water based products, I do the same except I dampen with water. It works well for me.
  12. ??? Can you elaborate on this? I am pretty new to spraying and I have shot several cans of Varathane WB Poly through my LVLP gun using a compressor with less than 7 cfm capacity. No thinning. No Problem. Good results. Dang! I just noticed the age of this thread. Oh well. Maybe someone can clarify.
  13. Remove the stops if you want to, but not necessary. I would fill the mortises with wood "chips" or a good filler. Sand smooth. And, then cover the entire surface of the jamb with a 1/8" veneer of the same material. Then refinish.
  14. All of the above are good recommendations. Before you do anything radical like replacing the door jamb, you might try masking the repairs. Try adding some inserts or filler, sand smooth, then paint just the area of the jamb between the stop and the jamb edge with a color that blends with the original stain (not necessarily match). Or, if the room on the other side of the door is painted, match that. No one will probably notice. If that doesn't work out, you can then replace or shave it down.
  15. First, before you do any more sanding, make sure you are dealing with solid mahogany and not a veneer. You can easily and quickly sand through the veneer and then you have big problems. I think a lot of your success will depend on how much of the old finish is removed. If you were starting with fresh unfinished wood, I would say that tung oil is unlikely to be blotchy; particularly on mahogany. However, if all you have done to remove the old finish is sand it, you may have remaining finish, particularly in areas that are hard to sand in corners, etc. You might be well advised to use a chemical stripper on it before sanding to more completely remove the old finish; particularly from the deep pores. Then, sanding through 180 grit should give good results.
  16. Sure. However, since the first coat has, at least, partially sealed the wood, the next coat with color will not penetrate as much and the color will probably not be as dark as it would be if it were the first coat. Keep adding coats and it will get darker with each one. You can also add a compatible dye to the danish oil to make it darker.
  17. First, be careful about selecting your wood. Make sure it is straight grained and of a stable species. Second, I'm not sure this will be appropriate for all finishes, but I think that danish oil or similar products, once completely cured, will be compatible with most other finishes; particularly other oil based finishes. It will have some effect on stain penetration, but you should mostly get good results with gel stains over it. Just a suggestion for something to try as I haven't done it: maybe an exterior waterproof sealer like Thomson's Water Seal would do what you need.
  18. I'm with you on the use of long set time epoxy. Gluing, aligning. and clamping multiple pieces takes time and epoxy provides it. Also, I found when doing a similar project, long miters don't always fully cooperate and the epoxy provides some gap filling capacity and reinforces the very fragile corners. Good luck.
  19. Just keep in mind that, even with a long table, the machine will try to make the top parallel with the bottom. So, if the post has a bow or twist, you may also need an auxiliary sled to fasten the post to until you have the first side flat. Small shims will support it while making the cut. Then, of course, turn it 90 degrees and make sure the first flat surface is perpendicular to the sled to flatten the next surface square to the first. After that the sled is not needed.
  20. This is just based on my experience. I am not an expert on water based finishes. I am suspect about your use of mineral spirits and a tack cloth ahead of applying your water based finish. I would have used neither. I am also suspect of using an oil based stain under a water based product. However, it seems like it should have been cured enough after 3 weeks. Before applying the first coat of finish, I would have done nothing except vacuum it thoroughly. After the first coat dries, I would sand it lightly to remove dust nibs and raised grain and then apply the second coat. Lightly sand the second coat, vacuum again and wipe with a slightly damp (water) cloth just to pick up any remaining dust, apply another coat, and repeat for each coat there after. I think your only option now is to sand back to bare wood or strip it and start again. However, you might try to sand one step starting with 150 grit and work through 220 until you get an even scratch pattern and then try a new coat. If that works, proceed with the rest. Good luck
  21. You might make an auxiliary table with a melamine or plastic laminate top that extends through your planer. Build it so that it is supported separately so that most of the load is off of the planer.
  22. As I said, I have read other comments from others who say they use this mix frequently. I can't remember specifically where I read it. Try doing a more general web search, particularly of woodworking forums and home improvement forums. I think you will find something more definitive.
  23. I have no long term experience with it nor with using it on a large surface. About a year ago I use ordinary acrylic latex paint on our kitchen cabinets. This, as I found out, is not the best product for the purpose. Some areas that get heavy use, like the cabinet door under the sink, started to chip and peel fairly soon. I recently mixed some Minwax Polycrylic 20% with some of the left over paint I first used, and touched up the bad areas. This was about two months ago and it is holding up well. It flowed on nicely with a brush and covered the bad spots well. So far so good. I have read on other forums where others do this frequently.
  24. This is not relevant to your question, but I just can't help but comment on the joinery. The only reason for the little corners is to hold the 4 pieces in alignment as the glue is drying. You can do the same thing with a spline (or biscuits, but wold be a lot of them). And, the spline is a whole lot easier to cut. I made 9 legs recently for a corner desk. Worked great.
  25. My Milwaukee can be adjusted through the table top. Can't remember the model but, it is not one of the larger ones.