Wimayo

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Everything posted by Wimayo

  1. Without further discussing the merits of the mdf torsion box, If I thought that I might need more holes sometime in the future, I would install a continuous wide spacer in my torsion box along the line where the dog holes will be.
  2. Yes. And, it would help a lot if manufacturers would stop "hiding" their production date in unreadable codes. They should be required to apply a straight forward "best if used by" date on the containers like what you mostly find at the grocery stores these days.
  3. Thanks for the testing. That helps far more than a whole truck load of opinions.
  4. It would be interesting to find out if the other half of the test piece ever properly hardens. Maybe give it a week just for the hell of it.
  5. See my comment of May 30 above. From my experience, I think this is normal. I'll look forward to what customer support has to say. Could you cut you test sample in half and do a failure test on each half; one at 24 hours and maybe 72 hours for the second? Is this fresh glue or has it been on the shelf for a while?
  6. Hard to say for sure just looking at one picture, but those spots look like tear-out to me. Tear-out is not uncommon in areas of changing grain direction like that and it occurs when planer blades are cutting against the grain and actually "pull" out small chunks of wood rather than cutting it. Take a close look at the individual spots with a magnifying glass and tell us what they look like. If they are tear-outs, you have some other measures you need to follow other than just finishing. It looks like they may be filled with sanding swarf now. Clean that out first.
  7. Depends on size and shape of the cut-off. I have been known to take long narrow ripped cut-offs and glue them together to make planks that can then be used for interior casework structure.
  8. Yes. Timbermate is a good product, but IMHO there is still a problem getting it stained to match the surroundings. This is mainly because of unavoidable differences in absorption qualities, color, and the lack of grain and texture. It will almost always take time, patience, and skill to blend filled areas well. There is no magic bullet filler that will automatically match it's surroundings.
  9. Testing something you are not familiar with is always a good idea. Please tell us how it works out. I do use the Titebond Liquid Hide glue occasionally; particularly if I'm doing repair or restoration work on older furniture that was originally assembled with hide glue. I have found that it does give quite a lot of working time. However, some of this may be because I use it so infrequently what I have on hand can not be considered "fresh". I was re-assembling a small oak desk a short time ago and found several hours later that a joint could still be "adjusted"; not easily, but without damaging the wood. The next day, the joint was fine and sturdy. This can be a good thing or a bad thing depending on the situation. The worst thing about this, it seems, is that the clamps need to stay on quite a bit longer. Likes and dislikes: Like - It is slippery when wet and tight fitting joints slide together easily. Dislike - It is thin and runny. Like - Squeeze-out can be wiped off without as much concern over adverse effect on finishing as with other glues. Like - Ultimate strength appears to be about equal (or good enough) compared to other glues (not a scientific opinion) Like - Cured glue can be reversed like hot hide glue with heat and water.
  10. I was about ready to write the same thing. Make a new leg and then try to spread out the spacing on all of those dowels if you can. I wonder if you could make a mortise and tenon on one side and dowels on the other. That might be stronger. It doesn't appear that the legs have any rungs further down to provide reinforcement. Lots of stress on that joint.
  11. I agree. The moving company should take total responsibility for replacing the mirror and having it mounted into the headboard. You should not have to lift a finger to correct their mistake in any way. And, it should be done properly. If the mirror they provided is too thick, they should provide a proper one. Trying to modify the headboard to accommodate the wrong thickness carries the possibility of doing irreversible damage. Insist that the moving company take it to a respectable repair shop and have them acquire the correct mirror and replace it. Sorry for your loss.
  12. I strongly recommend that you do some research into LVLP spray guns. For spraying furniture, I think they have some advantages; particularly for the hobbyist or non professional: They can be run on small low volume home compressors of about 4 cfm and up. They put out less material so you can work more slowly and calmly. They have small soft spray patterns so there is less over spray and less concern for runs and drips. They look and feel like HVLP conversion guns and, it seems, most on the web can't give you a good distinction between them, but this site does a pretty good job and is a good place to start: https://www.besthvlpspraygun.com/comparison/lvlp-vs-hvlp/ I use an inexpensive SprayIt model sold by Home Depot, California Air, and maybe others. It is a side feed swivel cup model that allows spraying in any position. https://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/ sells some more expensive units. This site also has some information explaining the differences. So far, I have used mine mainly for WB poly and shellac and it does a beautiful job. It should do just as well with lacquer.
  13. If I may add a word or two of caution. You mentioned the possibility of reducing the foot print. Be aware that band saws tend to be top heavy. I would not reduce the foot print more than it already is. Putting the motor under the saw will help with this, but it will eat up storage space if that is what you are looking for. If storage space protected from dust is your objective, an easy way to do that is to just cover the sides of what you have with 1/4" plywood or similar.
  14. There are a lot of vinyl repair products on the market similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Leather-Repair-Kit-Furniture/dp/B07ZN8JK88/ref=sr_1_42?crid=CL22X495X70C&keywords=vinyl+dye&qid=1646581790&sprefix=vinyl+dye%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-42
  15. Sure. But, with commercial ones readily available at reasonable cost, it is not worth the time. I would rather be doing something else.
  16. I have some blast gates that don't look quite the same, but are probably made of similar plastic. I have had a couple come apart as you describe and I re-glued them using E6000 and 3 small sheet metal screws on each side. Be sure not to get any glue on the sliding area.
  17. That is absolutely true if you are well versed in the CAD commands for the program you are using. If you are a bit fuzzy on these commands, you can waste a lot of time and patients trying to make the system do what you want. Sometimes it is quicker and easier to just push around some paper cut-outs representing furniture and equipment within a hand drawn floor plan. Just say'n...... Not knocking CAD.
  18. Sorry. I'm a bit late coming to this thread. Yes. I have used both the stoploss and the drink bags and both work well even though the openings are a bit small and more difficult to work with than they should be. I have also used heavy duty food storage bags. I usually double up on those and then stuff them back into the original can for easy storage and easy identification. All of these methods allow removing the excess air from the container and enable longer storage without degradation of the finish.
  19. Has anyone here ever used pencil, paper, with T-square and triangle?
  20. I have used the 1:1:1 mix with japan drier many times and really like it. I'm not knocking wipe on poly, but it is not the same. I have never had the problem you experienced. I tend to agree that it was likely the temperature. Don't give up on it. It makes a great finish. Did you know that you can substitute pure tung oil for the blo. It has a color a bit lighter than the blo. You can also sub turpentine for the ms. Not sure that this has any advantage, but I like the smell of it better.
  21. Bradpotts. Sorry to disagree. I believe that flipper doors slide up into the top. Pocket doors slide into the side. Not sure, but I think the mechanisms are different.
  22. Those upper doors are a shop design that consists of a horizontal slider on rails that are level with the top of the opening. The doors are then hung on piano hinges from the leading edge of the slider. You just lift them up and then push them back along the slider rails. Barrister book case doors work in a similar fashion except they use mechanical hardware. I think the mechanical ones that you see in kitchen cabinets are referred to as "flipper doors". Here is one link: https://www.sugatsune.com/product/flipper-door-mechanism/
  23. Who are you addressing the question to?
  24. I read through the above comments quickly. So, if someone already suggested this, I apologize for the repeat. When prepping boards for a panel glue-up I always alternate face in and face out as I pass them over the jointer. When I have all of the boards layed out on the table the way I want them, I mark them alternatively "in" and "out". Then when I pass them over the jointer, the "in" faces go against the jointer fence and the "out" faces are away from the fence. This compensates for any slight "out of squareness" and makes your joints much tighter. Hope this helps.
  25. There are a couple of ways you can taper the legs using the 4-piece glue-up method: 1- glue them up as straight and then taper them as you would using solid material. Depending on how much taper, you would want to either start with 5/4 material or fill the center of the lower part of the leg where the components get thin. 2- taper the 4 components as you cut the mitered edges. This way, when they are glued-up, they will end up with the taper you want. With this method, you could use plywood, but filling the center void will be a bit more difficult as it will also be tapered.