Wimayo

I'm told it has a fence with it, but not sure whether or not it is original. Owner also says it has a 3 hp motor. Can't confirm yet. We haven't talked price. I appreciate your opinions on value. I'm not crazy about a right hand tilt, but I assume you get used to it. And, I don't do a lot of angled cuts. Are there any functional problems with a right tilt? I'm not a first time TS user. I currently have a Delta contractor's saw with a Biesemeyer fence that works pretty well. I can do mechanical work and I'm not concerned about doing necessary repairs. My only concern is having to replace parts or do repairs that are so expensive as to make the purchase not worthwihle. I would probably have to break it down as much as possible to get it loaded and transported anyway. I don't lift stuff as well as I used to.

Here is the picture:

I am contemplating going to look at a Unisaw that is for sale. I'm in the process of getting information such as age and condition. So, I can't tell you too much about it except to say the the one picture I''ve seen looks good. The cabinet appears to be rust free with the original faded paint. The CI top has some surface rust. I don't know much about them, but it appears to be an older model. I won't know how old until I get a model number. For now, can someone help me with a list of the things I need to check if I go look at it. Also, what faults might I overlook if the price is good enough. What tools, if any, should I take with me. I'm assuming that it is runnable.

Wow! Thanks! I'm gunna print that out.

Can you suggest how to determine the good quality units out of the many names available?

Do I want AC or DC output?

For something I would use only maybe once or twice a year, that might be just right. I'm not crazy about HF stuff. Is that one OK? I've seen them on Craigs List for good prices. I've read that the flux units create a "mess" of spattered flux. Can someone elaborate on this? I don't want to mess with gas. I know I would need a helmet. What else is needed assuming I don't use gas?

Every once and a while, I have a need to do some metal work. In the past I have been able to do some acceptable brazing on light metals with MAP gas and flux coated brazing rods. However, this has definite limitations; not that I ever need to do anything real heavy duty. I think my needs would be met if I could find something hot enough to braze two pieces of 1/8" mild steel together. I've peen tempted to buy the little systems that include a bottle of MAP and a bottle of oxygen. I guess they give a hotter flame to work with thicker metals. But, I understand, the oxygen only lasts for about 15 min and is rather pricey.. I know that welding these days uses mostly MIG or TIG. I think that this technology is well beyond my needs for occasional light duty use. I'm wondering if one of the old light duty stick welders would serve my purpose. They appear on Craigs List occasionally. What should I watch out for; pros and cons?

Thanks for the welcome. This is a great forum. Danbell78's slat wall looks great. Doesn't it? My satisfaction with pegboard is due mainly to my cheap effective hook tie-down system.

This is my fastener storage. I started with glass jars but have almost completely transitioned to plastic: I start out by throwing hardware to be saved into a plastic bowl. Then when I have time or want to take a break, I'll sort screws and bolts usually by head type and nails by size and type. I usually don't save used nails. What I have saved are left-overs from new purchases. When I'm looking for something to use, I'll dump a jar's contents into a tray with a funnel like protrusion on one corner. When I've found what I want, I just use the funnel corner to dump the remainder back to the jar. In order to make one of these, you have to have lots of friends that like peanut butter.

Please forgive me for resurrecting an old thread. I'm new to this forum and, as I was reading through various threads, I came across this one that was generally disparaging of peg board. I could not resist putting in my 2 cents worth with maybe a hint or two. I built my shop as an extension of my car port about 10-12 years ago. Of course, my budget was tight and I came across some used 1/4" peg board that was in good condition and I decided that it would be good functional wall covering (please grit your teeth as you read on). I had enough to completely cover three walls. I mounted it with washer head screws to each stud for strength and stiffness and to make it (relatively) easily removable (continue gritting). Then I painted it white. I believe that I have a pretty good aesthetic sesns, but after all this is a shop and practicality has to take precedence. The slat system is so much better looking, but when cost and flexibility are the deciding factors, peg board can't be beat. I guess my second choice would be plain plywood. I do also have some cabinetry hung with french cleats. The main thing that makes the peg board successful in my shop is the mounting system I have for hooks. I have a mix of small and large hooks of various shapes and sizes; some purchased in variety packs. Some are made with little nubs and extensions to make them fit more snugly, some not. It doesn't matter. I use left over #12 or #14 electrical wire to bend ties that hold each hook securely to the peg board. It only takes a minute to bend and attach and, when done, I can "yank" the tool off the hook and "toss" it back on and the hook stays in place without wobbling back and forth. If I want to move the hook, I just cut the tie and bend a new one for the new location. Of course, there are a variety of commercial ties. The ones I've tried I've found to be too expensive (for what they are) or ineffective. The peg board in my shop is not beautiful (but who cares; it's a shop), but it has proven to be functional, serviceable, convenient, and economical.

I'm a first time poster. I really like all the great responses. Like wdwerker above, I like to use fabric like velour, crushed velvet, ultra suede, or even anti tarnish cloth. I usually wrap the fabric around cereal box cardboard with rubber cement and then insert into the boxes again with rubber cement. I can also wrap the fabric around blocks of foam to make ring holders. I haven't tried flocking.