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Everything posted by Wimayo

  1. First, before you do any more sanding, make sure you are dealing with solid mahogany and not a veneer. You can easily and quickly sand through the veneer and then you have big problems. I think a lot of your success will depend on how much of the old finish is removed. If you were starting with fresh unfinished wood, I would say that tung oil is unlikely to be blotchy; particularly on mahogany. However, if all you have done to remove the old finish is sand it, you may have remaining finish, particularly in areas that are hard to sand in corners, etc. You might be well advised to use a chemical stripper on it before sanding to more completely remove the old finish; particularly from the deep pores. Then, sanding through 180 grit should give good results.
  2. Sure. However, since the first coat has, at least, partially sealed the wood, the next coat with color will not penetrate as much and the color will probably not be as dark as it would be if it were the first coat. Keep adding coats and it will get darker with each one. You can also add a compatible dye to the danish oil to make it darker.
  3. First, be careful about selecting your wood. Make sure it is straight grained and of a stable species. Second, I'm not sure this will be appropriate for all finishes, but I think that danish oil or similar products, once completely cured, will be compatible with most other finishes; particularly other oil based finishes. It will have some effect on stain penetration, but you should mostly get good results with gel stains over it. Just a suggestion for something to try as I haven't done it: maybe an exterior waterproof sealer like Thomson's Water Seal would do what you need.
  4. I'm with you on the use of long set time epoxy. Gluing, aligning. and clamping multiple pieces takes time and epoxy provides it. Also, I found when doing a similar project, long miters don't always fully cooperate and the epoxy provides some gap filling capacity and reinforces the very fragile corners. Good luck.
  5. Just keep in mind that, even with a long table, the machine will try to make the top parallel with the bottom. So, if the post has a bow or twist, you may also need an auxiliary sled to fasten the post to until you have the first side flat. Small shims will support it while making the cut. Then, of course, turn it 90 degrees and make sure the first flat surface is perpendicular to the sled to flatten the next surface square to the first. After that the sled is not needed.
  6. This is just based on my experience. I am not an expert on water based finishes. I am suspect about your use of mineral spirits and a tack cloth ahead of applying your water based finish. I would have used neither. I am also suspect of using an oil based stain under a water based product. However, it seems like it should have been cured enough after 3 weeks. Before applying the first coat of finish, I would have done nothing except vacuum it thoroughly. After the first coat dries, I would sand it lightly to remove dust nibs and raised grain and then apply the second coat. Lightly sand the second coat, vacuum again and wipe with a slightly damp (water) cloth just to pick up any remaining dust, apply another coat, and repeat for each coat there after. I think your only option now is to sand back to bare wood or strip it and start again. However, you might try to sand one step starting with 150 grit and work through 220 until you get an even scratch pattern and then try a new coat. If that works, proceed with the rest. Good luck
  7. You might make an auxiliary table with a melamine or plastic laminate top that extends through your planer. Build it so that it is supported separately so that most of the load is off of the planer.
  8. As I said, I have read other comments from others who say they use this mix frequently. I can't remember specifically where I read it. Try doing a more general web search, particularly of woodworking forums and home improvement forums. I think you will find something more definitive.
  9. I have no long term experience with it nor with using it on a large surface. About a year ago I use ordinary acrylic latex paint on our kitchen cabinets. This, as I found out, is not the best product for the purpose. Some areas that get heavy use, like the cabinet door under the sink, started to chip and peel fairly soon. I recently mixed some Minwax Polycrylic 20% with some of the left over paint I first used, and touched up the bad areas. This was about two months ago and it is holding up well. It flowed on nicely with a brush and covered the bad spots well. So far so good. I have read on other forums where others do this frequently.
  10. This is not relevant to your question, but I just can't help but comment on the joinery. The only reason for the little corners is to hold the 4 pieces in alignment as the glue is drying. You can do the same thing with a spline (or biscuits, but wold be a lot of them). And, the spline is a whole lot easier to cut. I made 9 legs recently for a corner desk. Worked great.
  11. My Milwaukee can be adjusted through the table top. Can't remember the model but, it is not one of the larger ones.
  12. Interesting. I have had a Craftsman wobble dado since probably the late 60s. Still have it and I use it once in a while. I've always been amazed that the bottom of the cut is nearly flat. To the point, the index marks are quite accurate also. At most, it may require a slight tweaking depending on how particular I am at the time. It's a scary darn thing.
  13. It looks fantastic! Good job. I always liked the contrast between white and natural pine.
  14. I suggest that you get some measurements from some old tables. That may, at least, give you a starting point. Even if you can only find some pictures, you can approximate dimensions from proportions.
  15. I tend to agree with the opinions that applying poly over what you have will work out well. Maybe some one already said, but if not, I think you should use an oil based poly. However, I also think a test panel is a good plan just to be sure. As other have already said, I think you will likely have cracking issues some day in the future due to the cross grain end pieces. You might get lucky, but maybe not. Now would be a good time to fix it before you put on the final finish. A fairly simple solution would be to cut the ends off and re-fasten or replace them without gluing them full length. When you replace the ends, glue them over about 4-6" in the center only. A couple of pocket screws in that area will help hold it until the glue dries. Then fasten the rest, at about 6" intervals with figure 8 fasteners or some other fastener that will allow the top to expand a contract relative to the end board.
  16. I did this years ago to some aluminum folding chairs probably similar to yours. I used 1/4" thick by about 2" wide cypress slats. I used aluminum pop rivets to fasten the slats to the aluminum tubing. I added some aluminum strap to the chair where there was nothing to fasten the slats to like at the bottom of the back. The slats were then stained. They have held up well for many years. However, as they are folded up when not in use, they are not generally subject to the weather. I think the ash suggestion is a good one, but I'm not convinced the species matters too much as long as the slats are straight grained and free of defects. Sorry. I don't have any pictures.
  17. Before you do anything else, try oxalic acid. That might remove the stains.
  18. I think that a lot of the quality you get from a spray can depends on the spray nozzle. Some have a nozzle that produces a nice fan shaped spray and these do a very good job. I have mostly found these on automotive spray paint which, by the way, can be used on wood and give very good results; particularly if you apply a automotive primer first.
  19. I don't think either rivets or glue is the best way to do that. Both will fail under stretching stresses. IMHO, it would be best to just use two straps with their own end hooks anchored at the same points or put a single hook through two moulded ends of two straps and let them stretch independently.
  20. You don't say what the final use will be. However, super glue adheres to rubber quite well but, will likely not withstand much stretching. If all you need is to double the thickness, it will probably work well. If the rubber then needs to stretch, then it is probably not what you want. If you are just trying to fix a break and don't need the double thickness, you may be able to use super glue to butt the two pieces together. Again, it may not withstand a lot of stretch.
  21. Can the edge trim be removed? If so, you will be able to see the veneer edge if there is one. Also, take a close look at the bottom. Sand it to bare wood if necessary. Does the wood grain and color look the same? It is common for veneered work to have veneer on both sides. However, the bottom may be of a different species or, may be a totally different grain pattern of the same species. If this is the case, you probably have veneer on the top. You might also use a small sharp chisel to "lift" a small sample on the bottom to check for veneer. If there is veneer on the bottom, there is veneer on the top.
  22. Before you do any more sanding, make sure that is not veneer rather than solid wood. It doesn't take much to sand through thin veneer. It could be just a natural dark place in the wood. However, if you think it could be some kind of stain, you might try a wood bleach. Oxalic acid is a one part bleach that is inexpensive and easy to use. If that does nothing, you might try a two part bleach (sometimes referred to as A-B bleach). If it is veneer and the bleach doesn't work, you will need to use a toner (colored finish) to blend it in. Or, just leave it alone. What did it look like before you started stripping it?
  23. Other than being free of cracks, splits, checks, as Chestnut pointed out, your choices would be a matter of appearance. If you don't already know, do some research on white oak flat sawn vs. rift sawn vs. quarter sawn. Each will give you a completely different look.
  24. I have sprayed quite a bit of WB poly and shellac with the 1.3 and 1.5 tips. I don't have professional level experience but, I think it does a very nice job. I have another gun of the same model with a 2.0mm tip that I use for latex. All it takes is some moderate thinning and a little Floetrol to get a nice finish. I'm using a California Air 10 gal compressor w/6.4cfm capacity and i usually have the pressure at the gun set to about 20 psi; higher for latex.
  25. Just this year I started spraying my projects where I can. Like you, I don't spray a lot; perhaps 2-3 projects per year. So, I didn't want to invest lots of money and I wanted something that worked with my smallish compressor. While looking for the "best" spray guns, I came across LVLP (low volume low pressure). These guns work with low volume and low pressure compressors and I find them to be perfect for the work I do. The Sprayit brand is a place to start for comparison. These are inexpensive but, I find that they do a really good job. The two I have work with only 4.2 cfm which corresponds to pretty small compressors. Unfortunately, a web search for LVLP spray guns will be somewhat frustrating as it will also turn up lots of HVLP guns as well. Just watch the specs.