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Everything posted by Wimayo

  1. I have purchased hardwoods from this company in Mobile (not far from you). I think that their prices are at least competitive. You might check them out. BTW, they will sell you any quantity from one board to a truck load. This is unusual around here.
  2. I agree with drzaius. My advice if you want to save money and get good results is to go an isle or two over at your big box and get some of their 1x pine shelving lumber. Or, spend a bit more and get some poplar. In either case, painting will give best results. However, if you must stain, apply a coat of Seal Coat shellac, sand it smooth, and then use an oil based gel stain. Good luck.
  3. My complements on a creative solution. However, I must say that I fail to see $300 worth of advantage over a simple egg beater type attachment on an electric drill. Sorry.
  4. In this dilemma, I would do the following: Sand the existing poly finish lightly (220 grit) just to give the surface some "tooth". Get some gel stain. I think oil based would be best. Try General Finishes brand. Color maybe should be a shade darker than what you have now. Apply the stain per directions. As you wipe it off you can blend it so that it evens out the color disparity you have now; wipe off a bit more on the dark areas and wipe off less in the lighter areas. Let it dry at least 24 hours and then apply a light coat of de-waxed shellac from a spray can (to keep from lifting and smearing the stain). Apply 2-3 coats of poly per directions. Good luck
  5. Did you check the thickness of the tape; 7 mil (.007"). For me, to get an almost permanent solution, I would be willing to shave a little if necessary.
  6. I will second what G Ragatz said regarding grain orientation. If you try to make the front, back, and end panels with the grain horizontal, you will create a cross grain situation between these panels and the corner posts. This could cause splitting sometime in the future. To do it that way, you will need to build these components as frames with floating panels. Look up "frame and panel construction" and you will find lots of info on how to do it.
  7. I second the use of a center guide. I made a chest of drawers a number of years ago with drawers far wider than the front to back dimensions. No way I could keep them from racking and binding. A center guide fixed it and I also used some of the slippery plastic tape (HDPE ?) on the drawer rails. They are smooth as silk.
  8. The figure 8s are a good idea. You could probably mount 2 or 3 for extra strength on each leg and they would not be seen. You could also use corner brackets, something like these, on the inside corners of the legs.
  9. You say that you don't have or want a large compressor. "Large" is relative. So, it is hard to advise. However, if you are talking about the "pancake" or "hotdog" style small compressors, you may need to look at LVLP guns (low volume low pressure). I purchased a very inexpensive one a short time ago that requires only 4 cfm and it works great with my 2 hp 10 gal California Air compressor. I find the quality of the inexpensive one adequate for my purposes. However, there are better quality ones on the market. Just do a search for LVLP.
  10. That is the way I understood the OP. The coating doesn't need to survive the boiling test. It just must not emit any toxins. That is why I suggested shellac. I understand it is frequently used in the food industry as a glaze or other coating as with certain candies. Of course, the OP would need to be certain that the shellac was completely natural and contained no toxic additives.
  11. I'm no chemist or finishing expert but, my understanding is that shellac is safe. If I understand your criteria correctly, the finish does not necessarily have to survive the boiling but, just not emit any toxins. If correct, then shellac might meet your requirements.
  12. All of the finishing guidance I've read about brushes says to use natural bristle for oil base products and man made bristles for water or oil based. Natural bristles puff up and get floppy when wet with water. I think you got good results largely because it is a small project and the bristles weren't wet long enough to lose integrity. As others have said, I too have had good results using folded blue paper towels with wipe-on poly and blo/ms/poly blends.
  13. If there is nothing else on it but danish oil, you can add a darker stain. The danish oil will keep it from darkening as much as it would if you were applying it to bare wood but, it will work. I think your best bet is to use oil based gel stain. Wipe it on and before it starts to stiffen up, start wiping it off. Don't be afraid to leave a little on the surface if it gives you the look you like. Let it dry according to instructions on the can. Once dry, top coat it with a clear finish. For a single shelf, a spray can of clear polyurethane or lacquer will probably be the most convenient.
  14. I haven't used Sketchup for a while but, I think version 2017 is still free. It has most of the functionality of the pay-for version. So, you can try it and learn it before buying. Do a google search for "Sketchup older version".
  15. I agree that maple would be your best choice. However, if that is a problem for some reason, you might experiment with another fine grained light colored wood like poplar or basswood to see if you can get it to look close enough. To answer more directly, you can reduce absorption by applying a wash coat of thinned shellac to wood before applying the stain. You can also use a dye like Transtint and mix it more or less concentrated until you get the color or intensity you like. However, like every one else has said, oak will never look like maple.
  16. Do a google search and you will find their web page. At the bottom is a "contact us". Click it and you will have an opportunity to send them a message or an email.
  17. I tend to agree with wtnhighlander. However, sorry for my paranoia. I have made this mistake and would like to help you keep from making it. Just to be sure about the veneer, if you can find a manufacturer's label or stamp (probably on the underside of the top), you could contact them to see if it is actually a veneer. Also, try looking at the very edge where the leaves join one another with strong magnifying lens (a 10x jewelers loop works well) look to see if you can see a telltale "layering" or glue line separating the substrate from the veneer. Sometimes this is obvious even to the naked eye. One thing that could be misleading is that even if the main part of the top is veneer, it is quite possible that the edge boards (where the damaged area is) are solid. The bullnosed edge would be a strong indicator of that. So, don't let the appearance of the damage spot tell you anything about the rest of the table surface. Also, the fact of the edge board which is cross-grain to the central part of the table is a very strong indicator that the top is veneered. Because of wood movement issues under changing temp/humidity conditions, no knowledgeable wood worker or manufacturer would do that with solid wood. Of course, they could be assembled as breadboard ends. I doubt it. I would wager that the edge boards are solid wood and the central part is veneered particle board or MDF. I must respectfully disagree with Ronn W. The table I almost ruined had the same veneer on the bottom and that is why I almost ruined it. And, it is common for good quality veneered furniture to be veneered on both sides for stability. However, he makes a good point about using the underside to experiment. I suggest that you use a small chisel to gouge a small hole in the bottom of one of the table leaves. Go about 3/16" to 1/4" deep and make sure you have a clean smooth cut on the side. If you find solid wood (oak) without a veneer, this would be a good sign but no guarantee. If you find particle board or MDF under a veneer, you can be sure it is also a veneered top. If you are still unsure, try taking a leaf to a local woodworking shop and see if they can make the determination for you. Pay them for their time. Please let us know how it works out. Good luck.
  18. Be very careful. When you have a top with grain running all different directions (like puzzle pieces?) separated with straight or curved edges, it is likely that you have thin veneer. It is very easy to sand through the veneer and expose the sub-straight. Then the top will be very difficult to repair. A photo might help us some.
  19. Wimayo

    Squeaking table

    I like paraffin but, I find it rather crumbly and it can make a mess if you are not careful. Also, because it is solid, it is difficult to get into tight spaces where you need it. For the last year or so, I have been using the wax from a toilet wax seal. They are cheap at the big box store and the wax is soft enough that it can be brushed into tight spaces with a small acid brush or, likewise, spread onto flat surfaces with the brush.
  20. What you are doing is making your own danish oil and that is fine. I have used a similar mix and like the results. The process of using this mix requires that you wipe or brush it on, let it sit and soak in for a while, and then, before it starts to get tacky, wipe it off with a dry towel or cloth. If you don't do this, it is likely to cause the problem you are having. Following this procedure, it should dry and be ready for another coat in 12-24 hours. You can also add some japan drier to the mix to speed it up. Be sure you follow the instructions on the japan drier container. It doesn't take much.
  21. I've made my own shims out of various thicknesses of plastic from lids or other packaging. You can check the thickness with your calipers and be close enough. The plastic is soft enough that if they do get into the arbor threads, they won't do any harm or have any effect on your cut.
  22. DON'T throw it out. Put your waste into a separate container and let it sit. After a while, the solids will precipitate to the bottom. You can then decant the clear (sorta) stuff and re-use it. The next time you need to clean something, start with the decanted waste and finish up with clean unused. Then pour the waste back into the waste container and do the same again. This way, you can use the same thinner over and over again saving greatly on the amount of waste that is lost. Saves $$ too. The only thing you will need to throw away is the sediment occasionally.
  23. I agree with curlyoak that construction grade lumber will not give good finished results. I'm assuming that you are thinking of using this for mock-up or testing purposes. You will have knots and other defects that will cause problems with good smooth bending.
  24. I think I would just use a few screws through the plywood into the back side of the decorative frame. Expansion/contraction should not be a problem.