EEstudent

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About EEstudent

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    tables

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  1. EEstudent

    Planer eastern oregon

    I appreciate the education, I didn't know a knife grinder was a thing for these bigger machines. I think I'll contact the seller see if it comes with a knife grinder. I am leaning against it probably for now. I don't need this, it would be just really cool to have something like that. Plus I don't know how often this kind of stuff pops. At least in my part of rural America I haven't seen it too much.
  2. EEstudent

    Braun Light Bar

    https://m.harborfreight.com/845-Lumen-Underhood-Rechargeable-Work-Light-63990.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMTA0MjI1NTEiLCJza3UiOiI2Mzk5MCIsImlzIjoiMjkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiMTIzNTAifQ%3D%3D So recently I've spent some time wiring outlets in my shop and since we have day jobs and other commitments my time has been in the evening and early night. The shop doesn't have electricity yet so I've been running a long extension cable to halogen lamp I've had. But this was a pain adjusting it and the lamp gets hot so quickly. I just happen to be glancing through harbor freight ad one moring while eating breakfast and saw this LED light bar they had on sale for 30 bucks. So I figured I'd try this out since it was rechargable and looked very portable. Now generally I only buy tarps and disposable gloves from harbor freight so my expectations were pretty low. But I have been impressed with the light. It stands up on its own and provides light in one direction. There is a hook on each end of the bar that folds into the handle which would make it nice and easy to hang on things. Each end also has magnets as well to attach to something like your car hood. However I am skeptical of these, they do not seem very strong and I wouldn't be too confident having the bar stay put with the magnets. The box advertises 7 hours of run time, this I am pretty skeptical of. I have only run it on battery for about three hours at a time and the light stays nice and bright. So I will have to see how this part works over time if the battery holds up. It comes with a small charger which definitely takes a bit to charge up the battery. But it does have a red light to indicate charging and green to show charged. It also comes with a cigarette type charger for the car. Overall I am pretty pleased with this light bar. I've looked at some of the lighting solutions from the big brands and while it is nice to swap batteries between tools 100 to 200 bucks for a light often without a battery seems oftly expensive. This seems like a pretty good alternative for 30 bucks while on sale. Normal price is 40 bucks. Still seems like a decent deal to me at that price.
  3. EEstudent

    Planer eastern oregon

    https://kpr.craigslist.org/tls/d/powermatic-16-planer/6653813277.html If your in eastern Oregon or Washington this looks like kind of a sweet deal. I just bought the 735 earlier this year. I am tempted to go get this thing and sell the 735. I assume this works and it might need new blades, but this thing looks like a serious beast. Also I wonder if it is really a 20 inch planer in width and the seller has listed it wrong. 5hp for a 16 inch seems like a bit overkill?
  4. EEstudent

    outdoor cedar table finish suggestions

    thanks for everyone who responded. I think we will go with spar urathane as the final finish and just be careful with the selected stain. I will post some pictures when finished.
  5. EEstudent

    Help with cupping

    Thanks for the response, the base will be wine barrels. So the center will be strongly supported but nothing going to the ends. The table will be outside but it will not be exposed to the sun or rain very much. It will sit under a covered house patio. Do you think it would be worth it to put some some cross arms underneath the table? If so would a 1x4 work as a cross arm or would it need to be thicker? Also thank you K_cooper I will try putting it outside for a short time and see if that helps reverse the cup.
  6. EEstudent

    Help with cupping

    Greetings all, So I asked for some assistance in coming up with some finishing options with a 4 by 8 cedar table. As you can see in the picture it has developed a bit of a cup in it after I squared up each end. Are there any recommendations of what I can do to help reverse this? I've read a bit where people apply water or heat to help wood change. Is it naive of me to think I could try hot water and then using some cauls and clamps to try and remove the cup. It is an out door table so I am not looking for perfect.... But better than it is now. Any help or guidance would be appreciated.
  7. EEstudent

    outdoor cedar table finish suggestions

    I didn't really think about the boat finishes. Thanks for the product suggestions. I will take a look at those and see how that might work out. I have some cedar offcuts that we have been trying some stains out on. The stain color won't be too dark. Currently the table is sanded down to 220. Is minwax considered budget or entry level type finishes? Or is more of they have their place and it isn't oriented towards finer woodworking?
  8. I am assisting a friend build an table top to place on some wine barrels to make a "bar" type table. The table is approximately 4ft wide by 8ft long. It was built out of 2x6 cedar from home depot that was laminated together. I've finished the glue up and sanding. So it is time to stain and finish. A minwax stain will be applied for some color, but I am having a tough time identifying what would be the best type of finish. Ideally this table top will live outdoors all year long. It is unlikely to get wet or receive much direct sun exposure at all since it will be under a covered patio. I did some searching around and saw this article, https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/durable-outdoor-finish/ However I don't think my friend wants to spend that much on finish material. Looking at this article it seems like Urethane is more along the straight forward approach for this particular project. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/outdoor-finishes What are your guys personal preferences or it recommendations, should I just follow the popular wood working article? Thanks
  9. EEstudent

    EEStudent Shop Build

    I am not going back to grass. I have enough of that. I will do something with the extra space in the future. Perhaps put DC or compressor out there. Or perhaps make a small lean to with some patio type space and grill. Still up in the air. Gravel was about 11 bucks a ton. So the total amount I spent in gravel was much more than I initially planned, somehow I messed up my initial measurement and thought the retaining wall would have been 6 inches shorter. With that much space 6 inches of gravel is a quite a bit. Plus it compacts much more than I thought it would. Expensive lesson for me to learn but it was within my slush fund on the entire project so while it would have been nice to purchase a big tool I have some nice gravel space. And thanks everyone for the power suggestions. For some reason running it with the dust collector drop did not resonate with me. I am back with another question. I am working on shop layout of benches and tools and am considering putting a potential bandsaw at the end of where my miter cutting station would go. I've seen people do this before, I was wondering on peoples opinion of bandsaw should be on wheels without any dedicated "outfeed" type area. Or does integrating it into the miter station make a nice feature with the "outfeed" area?
  10. EEstudent

    EEStudent Shop Build

    Greetings All, Sharing my first shop build, would appreciate any constructive feedback or tips(even though its already mostly done) At this house there isn't quite enough space in the garage for my wife's car and my desire to work on projects. So some extra garage space is being built to help with projects and my new taste for wood working. The spot the building is going on is right next to the house, however this area slopes about 2.5' so I built a small retaining wall to help provide a level surface surrounding the building. I ended up building a retaining wall that encompassed an area that was much larger than really needed, somehow I did not plan that out very well. But it was a good work out and as usual took a bit longer than I thought it would. I dug a trench out, put some gravel down, then put the blocks down. I believe each block was about 60lbs and I put down something like 275 of them. It was a good work out. After the retaining wall was up I needed to remove all of the grass so I could compact the dirt and back fill it with gravel. After I cut it up and rolled it up I had about 3000 sq ft of sod that I just wanted to get rid of. I put it on craigslist for free and within six hours it was all gone. I didn't realize it would be so valuable. Next time I'll try to get some cash or trade for it maybe. Next I back filled it in. I don't have too many pictures of this stage. I rented a skidsteer and was working against the clock to move approximately 200 tons of gravel to backfill this area to bring it up to level next to my existing driveway and house. For some reason I had grossly underestimated how much gravel I would need to backfill this in. Otherwise I think I would have been much more careful in sizing the area that my retaining wall encompassed. It left the driveway quite a mess. At this point my work with it was done and the contractor's turn to take over. I already kind of regret not doing this part myself but I'm already short on time off this year and don't think I would have really had the time to complete this building this summer and I really want to start some projects in the fall. Trusses were delivered. Poles going up. More progress Unfortunately I was not around when the concrete pour was going on and away while the siding was being put up, so not too many pictures of that process, just what my wife took as update pictures. At this point the building is up, inspections for framing complete and doors installed. Back to me to do the electrical install. I am soon getting started with that and will post additional updates. One question I do have is any thoughts on how I should run power to table saw in the middle of the shop? Is it better to drop a cable down from the ceiling or to run a cord across the floor with some type of cover protection?
  11. EEstudent

    tool purchase advise requested

    Thanks everyone for the replies, honestly I am surprised there isn't one vote for getting the bigger planner. It looks like I am leaning towards the 735 especially based upon the price at farm and fleet posted on the other thread. Partially I am considering the shelix head in the 735 because how frequently I hear feedback about the knives not staying sharp and needing to replace them somewhat frequently. I guess at about 400 vs 40 bucks at one time adds up to about 10 knife changes. But it seems to be the right trade off in the end from my perspective. Besides hand planes I have most other basic wood working equipment, including clamps, sanders, drill, hammers ect. Currently my main equipment needs are planer and bandsaw. Also in the process of getting dust collection setup. I appreciate the focus on not forgetting all the other little things.
  12. EEstudent

    tool purchase advise requested

    I have a jet cabinet tablesaw with the extension I got off craigslist with the jointer. I found an older 3hp delta dust collector with two bags that I plan on reducing down into one filter + cyclone setup. Currently working on modifying that setup. I have standard drills, circular saw, jig saw, belt and orbital sander. No hand planes yet. So in regards to the bandsaw, I see many people either seem to recommend getting a 14 inch band saw or 20 inch or bigger. But not too many recommendations for sizes in between. Is there a reason for this? I thought bandsaw was considered to be a tool where there isn't a downside to going bigger besides space and money? The hardwood dealer by me has good pricing on 8/4 stock so I was thinking i'd buy that primarily and then mill it down to more correct sizes with bandsaw and planer.
  13. EEstudent

    tool purchase advise requested

    Greetings All, This forum is a nice collection of information for the various wood working topics, I've learned a fair amount just reading through the forum and the site. I am looking for some suggestions with a current set of tool purchases. I am fortunate to expand my woodworking hobby and have decided to start building projects with non-dimensioned lumber. I happen to have a nice hardwood dealer close to me. I found a 6 inch jet jointer via craigslist over the past 6 months but have not had any luck finding a decent planer. I do not live within 3 hours of a major city and so finding another deal on craigslist is starting to seem unlikely. And I am starting to get impatient and would like to get working on some projects with hardwood that I have planned out. I currently have a 2.5k budget for new tool purchases. Currently my biggest need is for a planer and I would also like to get a bandsaw as well. I've done some rough calculations and looks like I will anticipate running about 1000 bft through this planer I purchase in the next year or so. I am currently considering two options of tool purchases. 1. dewalt 735 + byrd shelix head, with grizzly 17 inch bandsaw (approx 2.2k) 2. grizzly 15 inch hylical head (approx 1.8k) I think I've read most of what is available on the internet about lunchbox planers vs stationary planers and I probably fall into the lunchbox planer category since I don't plan on spending hours upon hours planing wood on a consistent basis. But at the same time I like to buy things that will last a long time and are just a little more than what I probably actually need. As such having a nice big cast iron planer would be nice. I am not short on space so that isn't a factor for me. Then if going this route save for bandsaw in the future. But on the other hand it would be nice to get both a planer and bandsaw with my current budget and then save up for other tools in the future. Getting a helical head seems like a very nice upgrade for the planer. I plan on building several large table tops and a traditional work bench in the next year or two and so having a smoother finish on the planer seems very appealing. My experience has all been with dimensioned lumber and mostly framing so I do wonder if I am assuming a need more than I really need to start building things out of nicer hardwoods. So I turn to the internet of wisdom. I hope in the future I can contribute back to a community that has collected so much knowledge. I'd appreciate if you had this situation what would your choice be? Thanks