Coyote Jim

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About Coyote Jim

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arizona
  • Woodworking Interests
    I'm a beginner so I am interested in learning. Lots and lots of learning.
    I do seem to love hand tools the most though.

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  1. So it took me a couple of months to actually get around to doing this, but I did it. Sheesh! Finding shop time these days is tricky. The burnisher technique worked really well. Did not close up the gap completely but it looks a LOT better. Thanks for all the tips guys.
  2. There is always these guys: http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/ It's my understanding that they still use some of their casts that are over 70 years old. I drool over that site from time to time.
  3. I need to make this into a poster. I need to stop overthinking and just grab a damn saw already.
  4. I have this issue. My issue is that no matter what I am thinking about building, my default thinking makes me want to use traditional joinery and solid hard wood for everything. No matter what it is. For example: I want to make a bench seat in my kitchen. I immediately start thinking of where I am going to source the white oak or maple and will I use mortise and tenon or bridal joints. Maybe I'll try my hand at home made hide glue this time. That is when I get overwhelmed and then stick the idea on the back burner. I'm just not good at reminding myself that a bench just needs to be made well enough to hold butts. It does not need to hold butts for the next century and it does not need to be a masterpiece. Not everything needs to be fine furniture grade. Construction lumber can be used to make a very nice and very functional bench. Bolts and screw, if used properly, can be plenty strong. Are any of you guys like this too? If so do you have a way or resetting your brain to keep you from over engineering everything?
  5. Thank you everyone for all the help. Once this thing is all done I'll post a pic or two on how it all worked out.
  6. I have never even heard of this technique. Didn't even know that was possible! Just emptied the collector. I suppose I could just run a few off cuts through the table saw and gather some dust. Have you had much success with this technique?
  7. Just completed assembly on my project and for a finish I want to try shellac and dye. I have never used shellac (other than the spray can stuff) before, nor have I ever used dye. Do any of you have any recommendations of a good resource where I can learn shellac? Like a shellac/dye 101? I know I can just google it but that is a bit of a shotgun approach, my hope is that you guys could give me more of a focused direction.
  8. I just completed the assemble on my project and I have a 30 degree miter that has a bit of a gap: I'm not sweating it too much because this is a piece that will be for me and this gap is not in direct line of sight of the people who may see it. But I would like to minimize it anyway. Any of you fine folks have some good advice to fill/hide this gap? It's red oak by the way, if that matters.
  9. I am far from a seasoned veteran but I have used both Japanese water stones and DMT plates. I get a sharper edge with the water stones (I used 6000 then strop) than I do with the DMT 1200 then strop. Not much sharper, but definitely sharper. The DMT plates are SO much more convenient than the water stones. Because of how quick and mess free they are I tune up my edges WAY more often than when I used the water stones. For me, getting sharp quickly and conveniently are more important. If I had a bigger shop and a dedicated sharpening station, like a shop sink or something like that, and I could have my water stones set up ready to go at all times and all I had to do when I needed to touch up my edges was walk 10 feet across the room, sharpen for 3 minutes then get right back to work, well then that is for sure what I would do. But in my garage with very limited space, DMT stones are what I chose. In one of Christopher Schwars' books (I think it is the Anarchist Tool Chest) he says all of the sharpening systems will get your tools sharp. So pick one and get good enough with that system so you are getting very sharp results and you are getting them very fast. That way you can get back to what you came into your shop to do in the first place which is woodworking.
  10. This is kind of along the same lines. I have had my eye on these reproductions of The Woodworker Magazine. https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/the-woodworker-the-charles-h-hayward-years-vols-i-iv Have any of you bought any of these books? Do you know if they are as good as the people who are selling them say they are? The books from The Lost Art Press are a bit expensive but they are extremely high quality.
  11. Wow! Can you share how you got such a tight joint on the top in the front on that curved piece?
  12. Thanks for the input guys. I have no idea what that kind of thing goes for so having good folks like you giving me some input sure is helpful.
  13. Is this as good of a deal as I think it is? One of those one in decade finds? Does anyone know anything about J.A. Fay & Egan tools? https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/d/tempe-ja-fay-egan-316-jointer-12-planer/6808792505.html
  14. Thanks for the info and the recommendation on American Green Light. Looks like they are having a pretty decent sale right now so I picked up a couple. Have a look: https://shop.americangreenlights.com/store-home
  15. Go with this router. It is worth every penny: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=52609