Coyote Jim

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Coyote Jim last won the day on June 26

Coyote Jim had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

204 Excellent

About Coyote Jim

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Woodworking Interests
    I'm a beginner so I am interested in learning. Lots and lots of learning.
    I do seem to love hand tools the most though.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Here is the Bedrock Page from the 1914 catalog. This is the Bedrock Page from the 1934 catalog Pricing with inflation and Lie-Nielsen.
  2. A week ago I bought a Stanley No. 45. The one I bought was complete and in amazing condition. From what I can tell my "new" plane was made between 1905 and 1914. I am very excited to get this thing tuned up and working. I'm not sure why but I thought it would be interesting to look this tool up in the old Stanley Tool Catalog. I found a .pdf of the Stanley catalog that was published in 1914 which is the same year that WW1 started. Here is a picture of the page. Kind of cool right? Well here is where things get interesting. As you can see, in 1914 this super complex plane came with 21 different cutters, was packed in a "substantial box" and it cost $7.00 Taking into account inflation, $7.00 from 1914 is equivalent to $179.59 in 2019. $179.59 is a tough pill to swallow no matter what time you live in, that box better be pretty damn substantial. Well lets dig a bit deeper. Stanley published another catalog in 1934, just 5 years before WW2 started. By 1934 the #45 had gone through a few minor changes (like micro adjustment on the fence). Here is the page out of the 1934 catalog. As you can see here the plane now comes equipped with 23 cutters instead of 21 like it did in 1914. It still packed in a substantial box but now the substantial box is a "neat substantial box". The cost of the plane in 1934 is now $15.00. Adjust $15.00 for inflation and you get $287.19! Yikes! In just 20 years they jacked the price up from $179.59 to $287.19 which is a 60% increase for basically the same product. How "neat" could one box be?!?! But how about we go a little deeper? Stanley published a catalog in 1958 (24 years later, the Korean War had just ended), lets have a look at that one shall we? The plane still comes with 23 cutters but there is no mention of the substantial box (neat or otherwise). And here in 1958 the plane costs $47.45. Lets adjust 1954 money to 2019 money and we are at $418.57! What?!?! That is 46% higher than 1934 price and a 133% increase from 1914 price. Keep in mind that there have been only very minor changes to the plane over the course of 44 years. Let's compare these prices to a modern day equivalent. Veritas makes a combination plane that is similar to the Stanley #45. The Veritas combination plane comes with only one cutter (many other cutters are available though) and it retails for $399.00. (Each additional cutter is ~$16.00, so $16.00 x 20 cutters = $320.00 in additional cutters.) That is within 10% of Stanley at their most expensive. So why the huge increase is the price of this plane over the course of the first half of the 20th century? I have no idea. I do have a theory though. My theory is based off of zero research, zero facts and only 100% my gut and should not be taken as anything else other than one person who had a difficult time paying attention in school's opinion. Theory: 1914 was pre-labor laws. The 40 hour work week did not exist. There was no such thing as "over time". There was no such thing as "minimum wage". You could also have 10 year old boys working in factories. The cost of labor was possibly the cheapest part of making this plane back in 1914. So my guess (and this truly is just a guess) is labor costs. If anyone has any idea for this price increase that is based on facts or actual knowledge and is not just a guess like I did can you please fill us in? For funsies, I also checked out the price of some other planes over the years. The below chart shows those prices. The planes listed are: #45 which I have already described. #5 which is possibly the most common plane in existence. #8 which is the largest plane that Stanley made. #55 which is a combination plane that is WAY more complex than the #45 and came with 55 cutters! There were an additional 41 cutters this plane could use. The 55 was called "The King of All Planes". #71 which is a router plane. I also added the price of modern Veritas and/or Lie-Nielsen planes just to be extra fancy. Couple notes from the chart. 1)The Veritas #45 equivalent only has 1 cutter like I mentioned above. 2) Veritas does not make a #8, the price listed there is for a #7. 3) Lie-Nielsen tools are hella expensive but it is my understanding that they are worth every penny. Thank you for reading, I hope you found all this as interesting as I did and if any of you have any insights then let me know.
  3. That is a bold man. It's glue that I did not notice before I finished it. You can only see it if your eyes are open though. My blind friend is none the wiser about it.
  4. I finally got a chance to take some glamour shots. What do you think.
  5. This is the way I do it also. This video was a very big help to me. The concept for surfacing is simple: Find the high spots and bring them down. In practice this is very hard for a beginner. I am far from a veteran at surfacing by hand but I like to think I have graduated beyond beginner. So I'll add my 2 cents. One thing that helped me a lot was going slow, using a scrub plane, then a #5 and using LOTS of chalk (a fat pencil will also work). Hog off the obvious high spots with the scrub plane. Things like the high sides of a cup (like you mentioned) or maybe even the high corners of a very twisted board, anything that sticks out like a sore thumb. It's easy to go overboard with a scrub plane so take your time. I know Paul Sellers and other people you see are taking shavings very fast, but you're not there yet, slow it down. Once all the obvious high spots are knocked down (notice I said "knocked down" not "flat") you can switch to a #5 (a #4 could work if set for a heavy cut, also a #6 could work here too, I just prefer a #5). Using your strait edge find the high spots. Mark those high spots with chalk (I like to use scribbles). Plane away just the area with chalk on it until most of (if not all) the chalk is done. Should only take a pass or two. Check with the strait edge to see if the high spot is still high. If it is still high, mark it again and plane it again. And then again. And then again. Taking it super slow. This is also how to treat twist. What you are looking for with this step is "very flat", but still a little bit of light leaking under your strait edge, but no spots that are real high or real low. I wish I knew how to define "real high" or "real low" without showing you but I can't. You should know it when you see it though. Then (and only then) is it time to break out the #7. A plane this size is not used for spot fixes. I suppose spot fixes can be done but this plane is not good at it. Now what you want to do is use your strait edge to find any LOW spots. Mark the low spots with your chalk. Time to start making full length passes working from one side of the board to the other with just a bit of overlap. What should be happening is that the chalk is being removed a little by little with each pass as the level of the surface gets worked down to those low spots. Do not be scared to take an aggressive shaving here, unless you are getting tear out of course. Once all the chalk from the low spots are gone stop and check with your strait edge and winding sticks. At this point you should be so damn close, if not perfect. Now you stop. Do not use the #4 to smooth it. Smoothing comes at the end of the project, or at least just before glue up. At this point a nice smooth surface is of no value, the only thing that matters at the beginning of the project is flatness. Hope that helps. Oh, one more thing: I know it's super frustrating (I have for sure been there more than once) but don't get too caught up on that piece of oak that you may be "ruining". Nice pieces of wood come and go, you will see hundreds of fancy boards over the years. Remember it's just a piece of a dead tree. But the skills you are learning will last the rest of your life. You will get so good at this that you can do it in your sleep. There is a day in the future that surfacing a board will take you 5 minutes. You're not there yet, so don't expect to be. You have my permission to go buy yourself another piece of oak. You've earned it.
  6. Not done yet. I still need finish prep and finish. So I'll be softening all the edges and the smoothing plane will remove all the pencils. One of the goals on this was no power tools and no sand paper. I did use the thickness planer but that's all.
  7. I absolutely love making small boxes and it had been a while since I last made one. As you guys know, boxes are awesome because you get to practice joinery and do experiments on something small scale so if you screw up a part you will only be wasting a small piece instead of something large like the entire leg of a trestle table. I'm getting close to being done on what I have titled The Up-Side Down Right-Side Up Placebo Box. (The "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part I will explain later.) The box will be used to house some essential oils which I like to tease my wife and call them placebo oils. It is beyond the scope of this journal to get into whether essential oils actually work because of the placebo effect, or if they work because of or whatever. Many of them do seem to work for me, though there is a really good chance they are only working because of the placebo effect, but as long as they work I don't care why they are working. I'm not done with this box yet but here are a couple of pictures to start off with of the dry assembly with not handle on the lid. Gives you a sense of the over-all look. I was shooting for a Japanese-ish style look. I think I pulled that off. This design started off with bad drawings. I used the technique that Mike Pekovich wrote about in his book that many of you have recommended. (I recommend it also.) The one where you make lots of small drawings and do them fast with very little detail. That way you can crank out lots of different designs in a small amount of time. Doing this I quickly identified what I did and did not like. Once I had a design concept figured out I measured some placebo bottles to figure out the overall inside dimensions. This concludes the planning part of this project, I'm more of a fly by the seat of your pants kind of guy. And with that, it was time to make saw dust. Here is the board I am making this box out of. This is teak that is approximately 3/4" thick. I did not buy this board because as most of you folks know teak prices are kind of on the high side. I got this board from a local guitar maker. He had come to me because he needed a wrap done on a guitar for some event (for my day job I own a sign company so wrapping vehicles and other things is a big part of what we do) and he needed it in a hurry. Once we were done with the wrap he asked what he owed me, well if you know any guitar makers then you know all of them have a collection wood that they "will make something out of some day", so I told him that he had to pay me in wood. He gave me this piece of teak (which has some kind of oil finish on it in the picture) a smaller highly figured piece of teak and some canary wood. It pays to be friends with guitar makers. I started by just milling up the box sides. I did all this by hand except I used my planer for thicknessing. To get the ends true for the dovetails I needed to use a shooting board. Which was a problem because I don't have a shooting board. I have been meaning to make one for like a year or so, I just had not gotten around to doing it. No time like the present I guess. It went pretty well too. I was very surprised that I was able to get it square of the very first try. Have a look! There is zero light leaking through. Feels good man. Dovetail time. I'm a dirty cheater and am using the Katz-Moses jig. This is only the second time attempting dovetails and I just don't have the hours to dedicate to properly learning hand cut dovetails. So stop judging me jerks! The above is my dovetail gear. What you don't see is any chisels. That is because I don't have dovetail chisels, I know you don't NEED dovetail chisels, but I wanted some, so I made some. I posted this in another thread but for those of you who did not see that post I'm going to post it here as well. I had just read The Joiner and the Cabinet Maker (which I can't recommend enough by the way) and in that book Christopher Schwarz explains how to make dovetail chisels. According to Schwarz you can just get some cheap chisels and file the side bevels to a point. Schwarz also says that you can use a grinder or a belt sander instead of a file as long as you don't let the metal get so hot it looses it's temper. So, equipped with some extremely high quality Harbor Freight chisels I got to grinding with a belt sander. The chisel on the left is the before and the two on the right are the after. Took me maybe 10 minutes tops. Honing and sharpening took longer. They are not pretty, not by a long shot. But they work like a charm! It was hot that day by the way. I had a swamp cooler running in my garage that is why the humidity is so high. Yes, here in Arizona, 30% humidity is high. The coping saw (or maybe that is a fret saw, I always get the two confused) was from Harbor Freight as well. I assumed that it would be worthless and frustrating, but the thing cut like a champ. This teak is extremely easy to work this so I don't know how the saw would have performed in something less forgiving like oak, but I am happy with how well it did. Dry fit of the sides. I did not plan to make these proud dovetails, I wanted the dovetails to be just a tiny bit proud so that I could just plane them flush. I added 1/16" which was way too much. But I love it. So I'm keeping it. With the sides of the box done it's time to make the bottom and the top. These are pretty simple in that both of them are just rectangles with a bevel, but I was having trouble wrapping my head around how to do the bevel. Then I remembered something I heard in a Youtube video at some point. I can't remember who said it (I think it was either the Highland Woodworker or maybe William Ng) but it has stuck with me for years. I'm not going to quote it but it was something to the effect of: If you break woodworking down to it's simplest form, woodworking is just marking a line, and cutting to the line. No matter if you are using a chisel or a table saw or sand paper or a plane, you are just marking a line, and cutting to the line. So that's what I did. I marked the line.... And started cutting. At first I was using just a block plane but that was pretty slow so I switched to the scrub plane and things started really moving fast. I would get close with the scrub plane.... Then finished off with the block plane. Not only did this work very well, it was pretty fun too. It went surprisingly fast. The scrub plane even worked really well on the end grain. Sides, top and bottom are done, all that is left is the internals and the lid handle. I used some of my kids construction paper to mock up some lid handles and finally landed on this one: This is where the "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part of the name come in. At some point while figuring out the lid hand I had set the box down up-side down. I stared at this up-side down box for a really really long time. I was stuck, I had no idea which look I preferred. I like both looks so much. In the end I decided to keep this thing the original way I had designed it. I figured that since this was such a simple build it would be no problem for me to build an up-side down version in the future. Dowels were used to attache the lid. We are pretty much caught up to the present. All that's left is to put finish on. My finishing schedule is two coats of boiled linseed oil followed by Danish Oil and finished off with paste wax. I have used this finish before and it is by far my favorite. The only down side is that it takes a really long time. Even in the desert heat I have to wait multiple days between coats. After the finish is all cured and done I'll get some glamour photos and report back. Thanks for sticking with me.
  8. I used old tee shirts for wax for a really long time then I decided to do what the wax says on the tin and apply with cheese cloth and I'll never go back to tee shirts or rags for wax again. I recommend trying it if you have not. Cheese cloth was also the way to go when I was learning shellac.
  9. I have a small box that I am finishing up and the last step will be adding some paste wax and I am all out of cheesecloth. The cheesecloth I had previously was given to me by my Dad and it was probably 30+ years old. So I need to buy some more. Is there a high quality cheesecloth out there or are they all the same and I should not worry about it? The oil finish needs to cure so I have some time before I need it.
  10. The grinding only took 10 minutes tops. I did both of them at the same time. When one got to hot to touch I would stick it in the cup of water I had and then grab the other one till that one got too hot to touch then switch. I was not careful or methodical and I did not take my time at all. I was going for utility over form I THINK it was 80 grit paper but not sure. Honing and sharpening took longer than the grinding. Schwarz thinks that Green and Purple Kool-Aid it a bit too conformist and promotes consumerism too much. He makes his own Kool-Aid from scratch (using only hand tools of course) from the recipes he got from our ancestors. (This is sounding WAY more gross than it should.)
  11. Don't get me wrong I am SO not against buying things, especially good tools. I have my eye on some good dove tail chisels myself. I just have other tool purchases that are taking priority I need to scrape together for. I only posted the above because I thought this community would find it as interesting as I did and this info was very relative to this thread. Defiantly not try to tool shame anyone here.
  12. Well there is my problem. I have been trying to straiten out my plane's soul not is sole. I have spent a fortune in incense, animal sacrifices and dark rituals. Sand paper will be much cheaper.
  13. I am becoming more and more of a hand tool only guy. So if you do not plan on using that and you are willing to part with it, I would be happy to pay you a reasonable sum for it. I just love all that old stuff!
  14. Have you restored any large bodied planes like 6, 7, or 8's? If so how do you flatten the souls?
  15. In the book "The Joiner and the Cabinet Maker" (incredible book by the way) Christopher Schwarz explains how to make some dovetail chisels. He says you just need to get a cheap chisel and file the side bevel until the it comes to a point. Chris also says that you can do this with a belt grinder as long as you don't let the steel get too hot and loose it's temper. As someone who has drank the Christopher Schwarz cool-aid I gave it a try. I had some Harbor Freight chisels that were collecting dust and I took them to the belt grinder. If I screwed up or this didn't work then it is no great loss. The one on the left is the before pic, the two on the right are the ones I "made". The 1/4" did not even have a side bevel too it at all, it was pretty much a mortise chisel. Schwarz also said to cut the handle down to make the chisel shorter. That way you will not feel like you are chiseling with a broom handle. I did not need to do this because these chisels are already pretty short. They are not pretty and the small one was hard to sharpen. But they work like charm.