Coyote Jim

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Everything posted by Coyote Jim

  1. Phoenix guy here (actually Chandler). There is a great place in Mesa called Timber. They have all the normal stuff any good hardwood dealer has. https://timberww.com/lumber-yard-mesa.aspx One thing to know is that no good hardwood grows in Arizona, so all the wood Timber has to offer has been imported from other states. What this means to you is that you will be paying a bit more for the basics than you would in other parts of the USA. Which makes sense, if they have to pay someone to truck the lumber in from the midwest then YOU have to pay someone to bring the lumber in from the midwest. It's the same with any lumber dealer in AZ. Porter Barnwood is also another pretty good one. https://porterbarnwood.com/ Like the name implies they mostly deal in reclaimed barnwood but they also have normal hardwood like a normal hardwood dealer would have. There is also Spellman (https://spellmanhardwoods.com/products.php). I honestly don't know much about them I have just heard they are pretty good. Spellman is North Phoenix so they would be closest to Prescott.
  2. The design is so good! And the execution too. This is all just so great!
  3. Wow thank you! Those are some very kind words. I appreciate it.
  4. That's an awesome idea. It would add such a nice detail. And of course cherry and walnut compliment each other so well. Seriously, that's a home run idea.
  5. I did mine with 12/4 stock. After milling they are around 11/4. I did that because I just don't know any better. 3" very well could be incredibly overkill I just have no idea. Now that I am this far down the trail I feel as if I have overbuilt it. To my eye the vertical legs seem a bit chunky. I'm either going to have to figure out a way to contour them to make them seem more appealing or I will just have to live with them looking thicker than I want. Either way I will still end up with a table. But I am pretty confident that if the legs were only 2.5" they would still be plenty sturdy.
  6. Your probably right. I just assumed it would not be a big deal because the humidity stays pretty consistently at around 15% here. We DID get all the way up to 30% for like a day or two a few weeks ago. It was brutal!
  7. As if this project has not been progressing slow enough already, I need to put it on hold to do some other stuff for the house. BUT, at least it almost actually looks like a table now!
  8. Thanks for the quick response Drew. So to deepen the mortise by about 1/4" or so would take 30 minutes to an hour on each one (there are 2). I want the table to last forever, which would make the "cost" negligible. What do you think? Another 1/4" or 1/2"?
  9. I'm over thinking something again. I made a very short video (less than 2mins) to show you what my question is. Anyone have any good input for me?
  10. Too late. Already cut them. Once I remove all that waste we'll see how good I was at cutting. You'll be able to tell how good I did by the pictures I take. If I cut them well then the pics will be some nice close ups. If not, well then some "wide shots" will be in order.
  11. Story of my life: I resonate with that picture more than I would like to admit to myself. I use woodworking for the relaxation of it. While I'm not scared to use power tools, I find them far from relaxing. I'm actually looking forward to pounding out all that waste with a chisel for a couple hours tomorrow morning. I'm by no means disparaging power tools, they just happen to stress me out. I have enough stress in my life without them.
  12. So step one would be: go buy a router. I have possibly been over thinking it (which is my MO). It's really just a mortise with an open side. I could just chop down the side like a standard mortise but I would have the added benefit of being able to split out the waste as I progress down. Think that would work?
  13. Does anyone have any good suggestion on how to remove the waste of this bridle using hand tools? It's just over 3/4" wide and just under 6" long. I have 2 of these to do. I was thinking I could use a brace and bit in through the side and bore a hole all the way across. Or possibly make lots of relief cuts and chisel my brains out. This being white oak end grain makes me doubt how efficient that would be. Any other suggestions?
  14. That's good info. Thanks WT. I have considered draw-boring that joint. Still on the fence about it.
  15. I'll give that podcast a listen. Thank you for the recommendation. A sliver of wood in the gap would be a pretty easy fix and most likely what I will end up doing. It's in a pretty hidden area so any mismatch grain will be hardly ever noticed. If you are going to build this table some day then bookmark the link below. Before I started I did a lot of googling for pictures of the table and found some very helpful photos and compiled them all together. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6zSthR2ReykTveuBA Question for everyone: Would using epoxy for glue on the loose joint fix my problem? Or is the epoxy just going to fail over time because it is bridging the gap?
  16. The bridle rattles a tiny bit. Which is why I thought maybe I could squeeze the "forks" of the leg together enough to make contact. This joint is the fulcrum a lot of force so I think it needs to be as strong as I can possibly make it. I agree that the gap is cosmetic, and it's in a pretty hidden place. I may end up just ignoring it.
  17. I think this would work. Maybe get some veneer and glue to the side of the base piece (fiddling with the inside of the mortice is tricky). Then I could router plane down to a tight fit. If I use hide glue I would not have to worry about the glue not sticking to already glued piece.
  18. Time for an update! It has been a while since I have had enough progress done to warrant an update. We had gone to the mountains as a reprieve from the brutal summer we are currently having her in Arizona. And speaking of brutal summer, did you guys know that this is the hottest summer in Arizona in recorded history? Yep, that's 121 outside and 113 in the garage. Sure the humidity is less than 10% so it only feels like 109 or so but you know what else has low humidity? My oven! I still prefer these crazy hot temps over what those poor people in Florida, Louisianan, Texas and other super humid places have to go through though. Ok, done complaining. On to the next part of the build. Time to cut this joint: The thing about this joint is that it is almost exactly the same as the previous joint I just did for the "feet". So, easy peasy right? Wrong! This damn joint gave me fits. And this is why. First order of business was to cut the underside of the vertical leg. That started pretty easy. Just mark the lines, cut close to the lines. I did a relief cut down the center, then just used this Harbor Freight coping saw to cut close to the baseline. I really had to baby this saw, 3" of oak is outside the capabilities that this thing was designed for. These were all rough cuts so easy so far. The hard part was cleaning up those cuts. I just had an extremely hard time getting those inner walls to be flat with no belly, make them perfect 90 degrees and parallel to each other. I tried chiseling with a guide block, without a guide block. I tried the pencil lead on the underside of the square trick. I tried just eyeballing it. Removing one high spot would just reveal 3 more high spots. Spent WAY too much time on the first one. Then I noticed, that my cheap Stanley shoulder plane could fit in there. Turns out that planes excel at making things flat! Wow did that make all the difference. If the gap was any narrower I would still be working on this part for a month of Sundays. There she is looking nice and crispy. The rest of this joint went just fine. It was pretty much identical to the joint I did for the feet (except for these ones were angled) so I did not get many pictures of it. Here is a pic of the base with all the joinery cut into it. You may notice that the joinery is not centered on this board, the left side is just a bit shorter than the right side. What's going on here is that there was a knot in this board that I was worried was going to compromise the boards strength. So I positioned the notch on the left side so that cutting out the notch would also cut our the knot. Doing so made me have to adjust the spacing a bit. No problem though because this base is not to it's final length yet, the ends will be cut off later. Now for the dry fit. The right side. This joint is tight. Maybe too tight. I have to use quite a few hammer blows to get it to seat all the way. Question for you guys: I plan on using hide glued not PVA, will the hide glue lubricate the joint and make it go together easier? Or should I fiddle with it till it goes together with just hand pressure? This is the left side. It looks pretty good BUT this joint has 2 problems. It is too loose and I have a gap on the back side not shown here. I made a very short video explaining the issues and it is linked below. I would love if you would take a minute and see if you have any good advice for me. Zoomed out shot. I am very much stretching the limits of my woodworking know how. Also I am very much stretching the limits of my tiny workbench. In general I am very happy with how it is turning out except of course the issue I am having with that loose joint. Speaking of which. I made a very short video showing you the issues I'm having. If you have a moment could you have a look and give me your recommendation on how to fix it? Thanks for taking the time to have a look and any advice you can give me with my issue would be awesome.
  19. This is turning out to be a pretty stunning piece. I'm hooked.
  20. I am not. While I find the chairs attractive I also think they are a bit too...loud. I don't know what to do about chairs yet. I'm thinking benches. Maybe the benches will use some similar angles. I don't know. That is a worry for Future Me.
  21. About a year ago I read Nick Offerman's book. It's a pretty fun read if you have not read it. In that book, he has a picture of a table designed and built by George Nakashima. It's this picture: When I saw that picture I was immediately smitten with this design. To my eye this table is somehow both complex and simple at the same time. I knew when I saw the table I needed it on my todo list. I could not start on the table right away. I had to remodel our kitchen which took an incredible amount of time. I had to build some shelves. I also built a small counter top for our laundry room. All that took many months. Too many months. And all through those months I could not get this table out of my head. And now that we are in the dead of the summer here in Arizona.....where it has been around 117 degrees for a couple of weeks.....I have finally been able to get started. I did some googleing and found some more pictures of the table to emulate. I was also able to find some rough plans: I now have enough enthusiasm and knowledge to be very dangerous. So I went and bought some wood! The 4 boards on the right are 8/4 white oak, these will make up the table top. These are 10 feet long. My table is only 6 feet but they only sell them in full lengths. I will have a lot of big off cuts. White oak is my favorite so I suppose having some extra white oak kicking around is not a bad thing. The board on the far left is 12/4 white oak. I SHOULD be able to get all the pieces needed for the base out of just that one board. We'll see though. Just getting these monster boards out of the truck and into my garage by myself took some mental (and physical) gymnastics but I did it. I am building the base first and I will do the top last. My reasoning is that if I were to glue up the table top, which will be 3'x6' then that top is going to be very heavy. Way too heavy for me to move by myself safely. And at that size the top will probably be in the way in my small shop/garage and would require being moved around a lot. But the individual boards, while still heavy, are much easier to move around. For the base I am starting from the ground up. I'll make the long "runner" that runs along the floor first, then the "feet" that sick out to either side, then angled "legs" and end with the cross pieces at the top of the legs. To make the base I need to turn that large 12/4 board into smaller boards. As you can imagine, this took a bit of time. But I rather enjoyed it. Here is what you are looking at in the above pic. I jointed and planed the long floor runner (I don't really know what to call that thing) and that is what you are seeing on the right, it's just under 5' long. To it's left, that large piece will be the "legs". That piece is just over 5' long, it will be cross cut directly down the middle for the legs. Below the leg piece is the part I will be using for the feet. And below the already milled piece is where I will get the cross supports that will be the top of the legs. I ended up ripping all 10' of that board by hand. I was not as sore as I thought I would be, but I did get more blisters than I thought I would. All of those parts got crosscut and milled. Now for the REALLY fun stuff. The joinery! Starting with the Floor Runner and the Feet. This is the runner. It gets a notch. I cut close to the line then did relief cuts. Chisel out then waste trying hard not to blow out the back side. Establish my marking lines. Not flawless but she's square and my knife lines ended up perfect. Now for the feet. This joint is a little trickier. Need to make this lap on both sides, so mark it, cut it, chisel it. Clean up with the router plane. Then clean up with the chisel. I need to make a notch in the foot that will correlate to the notch in the runner. Same exact steps as the others. Cut. Rough chisel work. Then some fine chisel work. Ready for a dry fit. Fits very snug. I actually had to plane the sides of the runner a little bit to get the joint to seat fully. Here is the bottom which no one will see. Here is the top looking VERY sharp. And both feet done! I have left everything long. I will not cut the runner or the feet to their final width until I have the table top made. That way I will have a much better sense of proportions. Next I will work on the legs. The leg joinery will be very similar to the joinery for the feet but this time the runner will be getting the laps on the sides and the legs will just receive the notch. Anyone know what the name of that joint is? I assume it is some kind of bridle joint. Housed Bridle Joint? Lapped Bridle Joint? Well whatever it's called it was my first time doing it. I spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to figure out how to mark everything. Thanks for taking the time to look. I'll keep updating as I get stuff done, but don't hold your breath, I do not get much opportunity to do much woodworking. I currently have no time for the next 2 weeks. But I'll keep plugging along. If anyone sees any red flags that I am overlooking please shout them out. I still very much consider myself a beginner and could use the help of you veterans.
  22. This is shaping up very well and looking really good. And that grain. Just wow!
  23. DELETE THIS BEFORE MY WIFE SEES IT!!!!
  24. So....this is embarrassing. You know the old saying "Measure twice cut once."? I re-measured the kitchen and....well....I have absolutely no idea where I got 108" from. Honestly I'm baffled. The kitchen will only accommodate a 6' table. I do believe all of the above advice is still sound though.
  25. I'm going to be doing my first ever large table top. The final dimensions will be around 40" x 96", maybe 40" x 108". I'm going to use 8/4 white oak. Assuming there are no fires to put out at work I will be purchasing all the lumber I need tomorrow (Friday). This being my first big table top my question for you experts is: When picking out my boards what should I be looking out for? What are the red flags?