Coyote Jim

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Everything posted by Coyote Jim

  1. I just send you my address so you can ship it to me?.....Do I need to come pick it up?....or how does this work?
  2. I have been a bit MIA from the forums recently (not that I'm super active or anything but I do tend to lurk most days) and wanted to share a couple quick projects I was working on. First, I put together some of them fancy pants Krenov Saw Horses. I absolutely love them. I think the wood is maple. Except for the "feet", those are white oak. Except for jointing and thicknessing this was all done with hand tools. Pay no attention to the notches on the top of the left one. Those notches......yup. They are 100% for speed and 0% because I cut something in the wrong spot. Always mark your waste folks. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- My other project is what I have named: The way overly complex shelves. The reason for the name should be very obvious. Like the saw horses, except for jointing and thicknessing this was an all hand tool build. Finished with a couple coats of Danish Oil then paste wax. I'm very happy with how these turned out. Thanks for looking.
  3. Are we just shouting out science words now? I'll join in. Photosynthesis.
  4. One of these things is not like the others. The issue is that it is supposed to be like the others. Is there a fix for this? Or would the fix take longer than just milling up another board? The mortise is 5/8" x 2.5" (do you like how I mixed fractions and decimals there?) Hand chopped so the inside is all jagged.
  5. Little update: I got a response form This is what they wrote: They were going to send me replacements with no questions asked. They were not even going to have me send the "bad" ones back. I responded back telling them it was human error and there is no need to send me replacements. I have to admit I hesitated and almost just kept my mouth shut but finally decided that I am a decent human being. [Ouch! Almost threw out my shoulder patting myself on the back there.]
  6. A week or more ago Johnathan Katz-Moses (of dovetail jig fame) posted a video about all the great things you can do with squares. It's not bad, you can view it here: In that video he mentions that at they sell "Blemished" PEC squares. I do not know much about PEC but from the very limited research I did it looks like PEC makes some pretty high quality tools. Not quite at the level of companies like Starrett but way better than your normal home center tools. I decided to pull the trigger and get some of these "blemished" PEC tools. I bought: 12" Combination Square that Amazon sells for $79.99 for only $37.99. 6" Double Square that Amazon sells for $49.99 for only $25.99. 4" Double Square that Amazon sells for $45.99 for only $24.99. Plus tax but free shipping. I got all 3 of those for just under $100 They only took a couple days to be delivered and as soon as I got a chance I checked them all for square. And I was very disappointed. The Combination Square was spot on, but both the Double Squares were off. The 6" one was off by almost a 64th and and the 4" one was off by about half that. I was annoyed so I emailed Taylor Tools right away. Then I calmed down. Took my time, and re-checked all 3 squares. This time I did not use crappy particle board to check them for square. I used a board that I knew to be perfect. Turns out....all the squares are perfect. Good 'ol human error. As for the "Blemishes"? I can't find any flaw at all with either of the Double Squares. They look perfect to me. The casting in the combination square has some pits. Non of the pits effect the square in any way. Here are some pictures of the pits. All of these tools have some strange scratch marks on the rulers. These scratch marks look to have been put there on purpose. If I had to guess I would say that during QC, the person responsible for rejecting the rulers scratches them to make sure that they don't accidentally make it into the normal stock. Again, the scratches do not effect the use of the tools. Here is a picture of all the scratches. The quality of these tools is very good. I have never used a Starrett or Woodpecker square so I cannot compare. I can say that after a day of using them (I did a lot of milling and dimensioning today) these are the nicest squares I have ever used. I very much recommend them to anyone that has been getting by with a cheap square. They have more blemished tools on that site (all of which are squares, rulers and gauges) and when I need something that is listed there I feel confident in buying it knowing how good these squares are. If you are interested you can have a look at all their blemished tools HERE.
  7. For my day job I own a sign company. A pretty big one, we are up to 18 employees. So as a sign making professional I can say that for a DIY sign, you done good David. Really good.
  8. My daughter is in competitive gymnastics. She had a pretty good year. These are walnut shelves that I attached using hand cut sliding dove tails..... Just kidding, I just screwed them in from the back. The back is cherry ply.
  9. The wife mentioned she wanted a candle holder. I thought "No sweat, I can make something like that piece of cake." Then I came up with this design. "How hard could it be?" Turns out very hard. For such a small project this took me more hours than I am willing to admit.
  10. I did it. I pulled the trigger on the Hammer A3 41. Thank you everyone for your input. Especially @Mick S for taking the time. I am extremely excited even though my new machine will be May! Good thing I am not in a hurry.
  11. I'm in Phoenix so I do not know the Tucson market well at all but I can give you the perspective of someone who is only 2 hours away from you. The woodworking scene in AZ is not very good compared to middle America. It's hard to find used tools and very hard to find nice lumber. In Mesa there is a very good hard wood dealer called Timber Hardwoods. They are the best place to get good hard wood around and they know it so their pricing, while not outrageous, is a bit high. You will find some private mills on Craigslist/Marketplace but most of those are also a bit pricey and they usually only have locally sourced wood. Here in the desert, "locally sourced wood" pretty much means mesquite. Which is an attractive wood but it is all twisted and cross grained and generally hard to work with. You can also find eucalyptus locally sourced too which is down right gorgeous but eucalyptus also suffers from the cross grain/twisted madness. Long story short, unless you can find a gem in Tuscon you will hard pressed to find a good source of hard wood without paying a premium.
  12. @Mick S How much setup/fussing did you need to do with your machine to get it dialed in? I am admittedly not good at that kind of thing and I need to prepare myself mentally for it if I am able to pull the trigger on the machine.
  13. Coop, You ain't the only one AND I Ain't kidding Is it possible your wives are overestimating how much game you guys have? I kid! I kid!
  14. That IS a very neat trick Mick. According to google maps I am just over 7 hours drive from Santa Fe. That's very generous to open up your shop. That's good to know about the Felder sale.
  15. Due to tax purposes I find myself in a situation where I can buy a piece of equipment. I THINK what I want is a Jointer Planer in one. My end goal is to someday have a detached wood shop where I will pretty much be hand tools only....except for a jointer and a planer. The vision I see is one where the shop is not small, but not exactly big either. So footprint matters, which is why I would like a combo unit. My question for you guys is two fold. Fold One: Does getting a combo machine line up with my vision or is there something better out there I don't even know about? Fold Two: Assuming I am not completely out to lunch, if you had up to $5000 spend on a combo unit that would last you a couple/few decades, what tool maker would you choose? So far I have done very little research. I was hoping to get some direction from you guys before I get swayed too much by a really good marketing campaign from Jet or Grizzle or Hammer or Northfield. (Just kidding about Northfield. I wish I had that kind of money.)
  16. Guys, I think we are being trolled.
  17. Yes it will be a journal but it will be a bit before I get to this project. My hope is to start by the end of November. As for how long will the build take me? I have no idea, I tend to work at a pretty slow pace. The slow pace is a big part of the appeal of woodworking for me, I have young kids and I own my own business that has 16 employees, add those together and I have 18 kids. Life is a mile a minute for me, so the slow rhythms of hand tool woodworking keep me sane. I plan to use white oak. White oak is my favorite. I just had an old timey wood-gasm.
  18. What if I don't own a router? Still simple? Going to use mostly (if not completely) hand tools on this one, because I'm THAT guy. The idea of no metal is appealing, though that may need to wait till I am half as experienced as @derekcohen The book does not show but I believe it is one solid slab, at least that would be consistent with the Nakashima style. I'm not interested in that though so I am going to use a panel of boards. I also do not plan to use breadboards, I think they would take away from the look. I'm on the fence about a slight arch on the ends. Plenty of time to figure that out.
  19. Thank you for the correction. I would love to blame this on auto correct but it turns out the issue lies with the interface between the chair and the keyboard. That is a good point. I may even play with the idea of having them squared off and proud all Green and Green style. Not sure if this would add or subtract from the look.
  20. I am going to be building a dining table and after a bunch of searching I found a design that I am quite smitten with. Found a picture of the table I like in a book, so here is a picture of the picture. I love the table, not the chairs, I think the chairs are cool but I just don't want them. The table was designed by Mira Nakashima, apparently Mira and her father George are furniture designers of some renown (wink). As for re-creating this design, I'm not really concerned about the dimensions because I am just going to scale this to fit the room, I'm more interested in what you think the joinery should be. Here is what I think: For the "feet". Connecting the 2 cross members to the long beefy "floor runner" would be great as a half lap. Connecting the slanted vertical legs to that "floor runner" would be fine as a bridal joint. Connecting legs to that cross piece under the top I'm thinking a double mortise and tenon, maybe also a bridal joint. I could use your input on this one. The ribs on either end of the top would probably be best as a sliding dovetail but I was thinking of just using screws with slotted holes because a sliding dovetail that size intimidates me. Two questions for you good people: Do you see any red flags with my joinery plan here? How would you build this if you were going to build it? Thank you fine people for being such a great resource!
  21. I'm a bit late to this party but this is the thing I tell anyone who wants to use my shop. Explain that a table saw is most likely going to be the most dangerous tool they ever have the privilege of using. Tell them how badly a table saw wants to dismember them. Cutting off fingers is all a table saw dreams about when it is not in use. Remind them that all table saws want out of life is to spray human blood all over a workshop and every day that goes by that they don't spray blood makes them want to do it all the more.
  22. Here is the Bedrock Page from the 1914 catalog. This is the Bedrock Page from the 1934 catalog Pricing with inflation and Lie-Nielsen.
  23. A week ago I bought a Stanley No. 45. The one I bought was complete and in amazing condition. From what I can tell my "new" plane was made between 1905 and 1914. I am very excited to get this thing tuned up and working. I'm not sure why but I thought it would be interesting to look this tool up in the old Stanley Tool Catalog. I found a .pdf of the Stanley catalog that was published in 1914 which is the same year that WW1 started. Here is a picture of the page. Kind of cool right? Well here is where things get interesting. As you can see, in 1914 this super complex plane came with 21 different cutters, was packed in a "substantial box" and it cost $7.00 Taking into account inflation, $7.00 from 1914 is equivalent to $179.59 in 2019. $179.59 is a tough pill to swallow no matter what time you live in, that box better be pretty damn substantial. Well lets dig a bit deeper. Stanley published another catalog in 1934, just 5 years before WW2 started. By 1934 the #45 had gone through a few minor changes (like micro adjustment on the fence). Here is the page out of the 1934 catalog. As you can see here the plane now comes equipped with 23 cutters instead of 21 like it did in 1914. It still packed in a substantial box but now the substantial box is a "neat substantial box". The cost of the plane in 1934 is now $15.00. Adjust $15.00 for inflation and you get $287.19! Yikes! In just 20 years they jacked the price up from $179.59 to $287.19 which is a 60% increase for basically the same product. How "neat" could one box be?!?! But how about we go a little deeper? Stanley published a catalog in 1958 (24 years later, the Korean War had just ended), lets have a look at that one shall we? The plane still comes with 23 cutters but there is no mention of the substantial box (neat or otherwise). And here in 1958 the plane costs $47.45. Lets adjust 1954 money to 2019 money and we are at $418.57! What?!?! That is 46% higher than 1934 price and a 133% increase from 1914 price. Keep in mind that there have been only very minor changes to the plane over the course of 44 years. Let's compare these prices to a modern day equivalent. Veritas makes a combination plane that is similar to the Stanley #45. The Veritas combination plane comes with only one cutter (many other cutters are available though) and it retails for $399.00. (Each additional cutter is ~$16.00, so $16.00 x 20 cutters = $320.00 in additional cutters.) That is within 10% of Stanley at their most expensive. So why the huge increase is the price of this plane over the course of the first half of the 20th century? I have no idea. I do have a theory though. My theory is based off of zero research, zero facts and only 100% my gut and should not be taken as anything else other than one person who had a difficult time paying attention in school's opinion. Theory: 1914 was pre-labor laws. The 40 hour work week did not exist. There was no such thing as "over time". There was no such thing as "minimum wage". You could also have 10 year old boys working in factories. The cost of labor was possibly the cheapest part of making this plane back in 1914. So my guess (and this truly is just a guess) is labor costs. If anyone has any idea for this price increase that is based on facts or actual knowledge and is not just a guess like I did can you please fill us in? For funsies, I also checked out the price of some other planes over the years. The below chart shows those prices. The planes listed are: #45 which I have already described. #5 which is possibly the most common plane in existence. #8 which is the largest plane that Stanley made. #55 which is a combination plane that is WAY more complex than the #45 and came with 55 cutters! There were an additional 41 cutters this plane could use. The 55 was called "The King of All Planes". #71 which is a router plane. I also added the price of modern Veritas and/or Lie-Nielsen planes just to be extra fancy. Couple notes from the chart. 1)The Veritas #45 equivalent only has 1 cutter like I mentioned above. 2) Veritas does not make a #8, the price listed there is for a #7. 3) Lie-Nielsen tools are hella expensive but it is my understanding that they are worth every penny. Thank you for reading, I hope you found all this as interesting as I did and if any of you have any insights then let me know.
  24. That is a bold man. It's glue that I did not notice before I finished it. You can only see it if your eyes are open though. My blind friend is none the wiser about it.