curlyoak

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curlyoak last won the day on May 16

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About curlyoak

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 11/21/1950

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stuart Florida
  • Woodworking Interests
    I build part time. Woodworking is my oxygen!

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  1. Tom, I have had a ras for decades and I agree with you. I have one exception. When building doors or panels with a bread board end I push. That is my one percent. With practice I have been able to cleanly cut off the "ears" for a finish cut. Otherwise no push. I have a 12" delta. Not a bad saw. I never used an RAS that I liked better than a Dewalt. I learned on a 9". Reliable, dependable and accurate.
  2. That is very easy on my eyes! It puts a grin on my face.First class. I like everything about it. Well done! I was busy picking mangoes. Signed and dated? Thanks for the ride!
  3. A drum sander could work if the top is not glued to the base...Also if the piece wobbled through the drum sander, might be a problem. You may need to true one side first with a belt sander or something, then the drum...All this depending on what you have to work with...If I used the belt sander, the first pass would be coarse and sanded on a bias angled across the grain. From thereon out I would sand with the grain...
  4. From the picture the flatness appears to be close. Within an eighth. If so a belt sander and a straight edge with a coarse belt for starters...
  5. curlyoak

    Scrap cedar

    That cedar will dry quick. Old cedar dries fast. Green takes longer...
  6. Table saw for me. Raise the blade max. I turn the saw off at the end of the cut. I can kill it with my knee and hold the work. A full extended blade I'm more careful. You need marks on your fence and the panel. Chisel the corners. This will do the big toe kick too. With a carbide blade and a true table saw, and a steady hand with a good eye, these cuts can make glue joints.
  7. Another possibility is instead of one piece, make style and rail face frame. And possibly more than one drawer depending on the measurements. A possible choice...
  8. I use 1/8" door skin for patterns. Cheap 3 ply. Glue cross pieces with hot glue. To match the pattern to the wall, a block plane and some rasps come in handy. If it looks problematic I will add scribes. And bevel the scribes leaving the face makes quicker and better work. A crazy one was the floor had a big bow. I barely had enough toe kick to scribe it to the floor.
  9. No problem, I complain about some finishes too. I would never deliver work that is inferior in any way. Including the finish. You really surprised my with all woodworkers are bad finishers. DO you really think that? And further more why say that to a bunch of woodworkers on a woodworking site? I was under the opinion you liked everybody. Even if it is true it is not nice. And its not true either. So that's why I reacted. But in reflection go ahead with your criticism about us woodworkers. Or me. If it makes you feel better. My comment on your spelling was to deflect the subject in a different direction. You must be sensitive about your spelling. Mine is terrible. I'm lucky for spell check. There was a previous thread that someone else commented about your spelling. All had a nice laugh and that was it. Now that I wrote it is different?
  10. And there are those with spelling issues, that can put on a good finish...
  11. I I don't feel singled out. I feel it is a wrong comment about most of the people on here. Which is a varied group of skill levels.
  12. My finishing work is much better than bad...
  13. I like Amana carbide tools. Including a 60 tooth combo and router bits too. I have a frued 6" dado stack. had it since the 70's. Sharpened many times. Get a good one. I would check on Amana...Good luck
  14. If the local HD are asses, then call HQ customer service. Ask for a supervisor. Never failed me. Some of the locals are idiots. Many are helpful.
  15. I have a 24" Starrett combination square. Very dependable and true. If it was lost or damaged I would immediately get another. I would be lost without it.