curlyoak

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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. curlyoak

    Outdoor Hinges

    Hard to find but another choice is european style self closing hinges stainless.
  2. curlyoak

    New storage shed

    2 months to get to this point. Dealing with architect and county. Rules here are very tough in Florida. Due to past hurricanes. So good rules keep home owners ins cost down. But they get carried away. Like what is the historic water flow on the property. But that time and money for nothing part is over. It gets inspected tomorrow and poured next week. The elevation wall in the pic is 12' and the other wall is 15'. One back door at the far end of the 15'. Lumber and plywood storage behind the garage door. Yard tools in the back door.
  3. curlyoak

    New storage shed

    Yesterday I was using the space allowed by the side door. The garage door was closed. And then the wind shut the side door. One second later one of the led's powered on. It works! All I need for that.
  4. The lumber for the base is sold rough sawn, kiln dried in increments starting in 4/4, meaning four quarter or one inch material. Which dresses to a little more than 3/4". Material is also available in thickness of 5/4, 6/4/ 8/4, 12/4 and some bigger. Laminating is normal and typical in the very thick dimensions. Nicer if you don't have to laminate. If you can wipe the slabs with a little alcohol it might be easier to ID the wood. The last finished pictures look like walnut with sap wood.
  5. curlyoak

    Router table

    I am in the market for a good router table. 2 That I am considering is A Jessem brand and a Woodpecker. Any opinion on these or other router tables let me know. https://jessem.com/collections/router-table-packages/products/09422-mast-r-lift-ii-complete-table-package https://www.toolnut.com/power-tools/routers/router-tables/woodpeckers-prp-4-v2350-premium-router-package-27x43-phenolic-with-prl-v2-350.html Above, links on the 2 I mentioned
  6. curlyoak

    Rustic Outdoor Table

    It is the wood! I live in Florida. High humidity. Lots of mold and mildew. The only reasonable choice is wester red cedar. Almost as soft as cardboard.(not quite) But it holds up to the weather. Avoid sap wood and the center pith. I get the widest boards. Whether I'm working in4/4 or 8/4. I waste the center of the tree. Check the end of the boards and avoid the center rings. Pass on that board. And if you insist on outdoor joinery then dry them out a few months. Or it will shrink and crack. A recent project. A cedar bench for my rain barrel. For out door stuff I use stainless steel screws and let them show. I leave space between the top boards for drainage and shrinkage. I ripped up 2 x 10's. Best wood.
  7. curlyoak

    New storage shed

    All these years there was so much scraps that were buried. It was as if I did not have 75% of the scraps. Now they will either smoke meat or be on top of the stack of the same species and available. Thanks for the nice comments. Still more cleanup in the shop. Then I will have earned a new router table...My reward...
  8. curlyoak

    New storage shed

    Finally done! Most materials are out of the shop and in my new storage shed. My scrap pile is gone. All the good scraps now reside in the rack along with the same species The worthless scraps will smoke meat for 2 of my hunting friends. Before if I needed a scrap and it was not on top of the pile I'd cut into a new board. All leftovers are on the stack of same species. I found 6 boards of poplar I did not know I had. I have bought a lot of poplar over time not knowing I had some. And about a year ago I ran into an opportunity that normally I hear about and never have a chance at. 200' of exceptional 1" cherry. Very little sap and boards up to 18" wide. All at a good price. I had no room for it but the owner of a cabinet supply is a good friend and he allowed me some storage until last night. Now the cherry is at its next space. Mostly when I buy wood it is for a specific project. So it makes me think when will I use the cherry, who will commission me, and what will the project(s) be? I might have the answer tomorrow or 5 years from now or never. But I like the questions and occasionally ponder the thought. This is the side door which allows me access for non lumber storage. I intend to plumb the rain barrel. The water will be used to irrigate my bananas. They are water pigs. A new cedar bench for the rain barrel. Inside the side door.
  9. curlyoak

    New storage shed

    They replaced it. No charge. I told the company not to send the same installer. They had my deposit and I had the balance. If they did not behave, I would not pay.
  10. curlyoak

    New storage shed

    A few more details and I can start to move lumber in... It will hold up to 14'. I have another spot for 16'. I have 3 boards that long.
  11. curlyoak

    Gorilla Glue

    The most important fact is the wood breaks before the joint does then the glue is strong enough. I have been using tite bond since there was tite bond. II and currently III. On occasion I use epoxy.TB III has meaningful elasticity. It lets the wood move to a point. It would be hard to improveTB III.
  12. I like to show off match grain figured wood too. I chamfer the inner edge which gives the appearance of narrow. A wider bottom rail is stronger and fits my eye. Regardless your frames will last 2 lifetimes or more. I use a center rail system too. Mine is reverse of yours. The drawer bottom has the small piece of wood. And a dado U shaped channel built into the drawer pocket. The bearing is on the drawer sides and the center is guide only. I first attach the small piece morticed into the back of the face. I slide in the drawer with the other end unattached. By centering the face it locates where the guide belongs from the back before the cabinet backs are on. Mark and screw on. Fast easy and accurate.
  13. I love your work. Always good joinery. My eye preference and also stronger doors with wider bottom rails. Most frame and panel exterior doors have a wider bottom rail. The bottom joints have the most stress. A longer joint helps offset that. For my view It seems like it should be wider. And the bigger the doors the more important is is to have a wider bottom rail. If the door does not have a coped joint from matching router bits then I add a profile to the face. Mostly a chamfer or an OG. And I don't like the profile routed in the corners. I like a stopping point that allows the inside corners to be square. My current evolvement...I think start and stop chamfers in the hand tool era were called goats mouth? That is leaving square corners.
  14. I am considering buying this drill press. Any opinions will be appreciated. Thanks
  15. curlyoak

    Design Opinions requested

    20" depth allows you to make useful drawers. I also see no need or purpose or benefit for a hinged top. I think drawers will provide for your needs. Scott, please explain your knowledge and experience on woodworking. Knowing your skill level and about the tools you have will allow better suggestions for your design. Thanks.
  16. curlyoak

    Design Opinions requested

    If possible I would make it 20" deep. I would simplify the design by having drawers above and 4 doors below. The layout of drawers would be influenced by the items to store.
  17. curlyoak

    White oak curiosity question

    QS properly dried is very stable. shrinkage is low. And most likely to stay flat. Then there is the beauty of QS...
  18. curlyoak

    How do you guys hang Biesemeyer fences when not in use?

    My fence rarely is off the table. There are brackets on the left side of the cabinet that I keep my incra mitre gage.
  19. If you glue the panels they will expand and contract. But that is why frame and panel construction was invented. I would cut the chamfers before and glue the panels. That is how these panels were made...
  20. curlyoak

    Shop time

    What is the going rate for shop time today? Thanks for your reply.
  21. curlyoak

    New storage shed

    OK Mark, you are right. But I don't expect to change the batteries for a long time. I got the new door and now I can get the final inspection. But there is an issue. The installer told me. I did not have to look for it... By missing center on the lock, it is causing a problem with the flat steel attached to the lock. I have not looked at it closely. The installer wants to replace the panel. That means I can't build my racks. Still...The panel has to be ordered.
  22. curlyoak

    Large miters

    When I clean up a long cut for a glue joint, I cut using a circular saw close to the line and clean it up with the router. Take a beater board. clamp a straight edge moving the router along the edge for an inch. Now you know the exact distance needed to set up the edge. I rip a piece of scrap to use to add speed to set up the straight edge. The direction is always to pull the router to the straight edge. I use a straight flute no bearing. I like to start with a freshly sharpened bit. And small cuts are easier... A large project might require 2 bits...
  23. curlyoak

    New storage shed

    Because the lights would be blocked by the garage door...
  24. curlyoak

    A few tools

    Delta morticing machine 14-650 type 2 One set of bits new except one used once.One used but still good set of bits included. $225 Delta tenoning jig $65 Drill press $150. All tools cash only. Plus freight. I live in Stuart, Florida
  25. curlyoak

    Front Door Construction

    If you live in a mildew prone area like I do in Florida, don't use white oak. The mildew will get under the finish due to the cell structure of the wood. I thought if I refinished it would be fine. I even tripled up on the top and bottom with varnish. Does not matter. It repeated. Sapele, an African mahogany, is what I replaced it with. No mildew issues... Doors need deep tenons. Or deep dominoes.