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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. That is very easy on my eyes! It puts a grin on my face.First class. I like everything about it. Well done! I was busy picking mangoes. Signed and dated? Thanks for the ride!
  2. A drum sander could work if the top is not glued to the base...Also if the piece wobbled through the drum sander, might be a problem. You may need to true one side first with a belt sander or something, then the drum...All this depending on what you have to work with...If I used the belt sander, the first pass would be coarse and sanded on a bias angled across the grain. From thereon out I would sand with the grain...
  3. From the picture the flatness appears to be close. Within an eighth. If so a belt sander and a straight edge with a coarse belt for starters...
  4. curlyoak

    Scrap cedar

    That cedar will dry quick. Old cedar dries fast. Green takes longer...
  5. Table saw for me. Raise the blade max. I turn the saw off at the end of the cut. I can kill it with my knee and hold the work. A full extended blade I'm more careful. You need marks on your fence and the panel. Chisel the corners. This will do the big toe kick too. With a carbide blade and a true table saw, and a steady hand with a good eye, these cuts can make glue joints.
  6. Another possibility is instead of one piece, make style and rail face frame. And possibly more than one drawer depending on the measurements. A possible choice...
  7. I use 1/8" door skin for patterns. Cheap 3 ply. Glue cross pieces with hot glue. To match the pattern to the wall, a block plane and some rasps come in handy. If it looks problematic I will add scribes. And bevel the scribes leaving the face makes quicker and better work. A crazy one was the floor had a big bow. I barely had enough toe kick to scribe it to the floor.
  8. No problem, I complain about some finishes too. I would never deliver work that is inferior in any way. Including the finish. You really surprised my with all woodworkers are bad finishers. DO you really think that? And further more why say that to a bunch of woodworkers on a woodworking site? I was under the opinion you liked everybody. Even if it is true it is not nice. And its not true either. So that's why I reacted. But in reflection go ahead with your criticism about us woodworkers. Or me. If it makes you feel better. My comment on your spelling was to deflect the subject in a different direction. You must be sensitive about your spelling. Mine is terrible. I'm lucky for spell check. There was a previous thread that someone else commented about your spelling. All had a nice laugh and that was it. Now that I wrote it is different?
  9. And there are those with spelling issues, that can put on a good finish...
  10. I I don't feel singled out. I feel it is a wrong comment about most of the people on here. Which is a varied group of skill levels.
  11. My finishing work is much better than bad...
  12. I like Amana carbide tools. Including a 60 tooth combo and router bits too. I have a frued 6" dado stack. had it since the 70's. Sharpened many times. Get a good one. I would check on Amana...Good luck
  13. If the local HD are asses, then call HQ customer service. Ask for a supervisor. Never failed me. Some of the locals are idiots. Many are helpful.
  14. I have a 24" Starrett combination square. Very dependable and true. If it was lost or damaged I would immediately get another. I would be lost without it.
  15. Regardless of hand tools or power, the first thing to do is dress the lumber. If it is not dressed right it may impede your ability to make everything fit.. Make the wood flat and even in thickness. Then the pieces must be square and opposing pieces must be exactly the same before you begin to make the joint...
  16. Does this old saw have any value? I have had it since the 60's. Still works. Any idea how to sell it? Thanks
  17. Recently I have not done mortice and tenon. Because I have the small and large version of the Festool domino cutters. In my view either or is good.Poplar is one of the most abundant timbers in North America. Google 8/4 poplar lumber. Add your address and see what pops up. I think a 5/4 or 6/4 door inside would be adequate. Door making requires straight lumber. No heart wood. An experienced eye buying or ordering the wood can matter.
  18. I think you are spot on for learning metric. But I am happy with fractions. And I think age has something to do with it. Since google conversions are easy. Blum hinges are metric. I go blum because I like the hinges. Conversion is easy enough. My festool domino tool is in metric. I can manage but you think they would offer a unit in non metric as that is their biggest market. Still like the tool. I do not like the metric system on bolts. I like the American bolt system better.
  19. My woodworking teacher was a farmers son. He called the tape measure a cornstalk. Or a unit of measure. On tapes the end hook works for both inside and outside measurements. It must slide for either inside or out measure. The slots wear and older tapes are less accurate. Assuming they were good to start and that is not always true. I like my 6'+ wooden lufkin folding rule. You can measure to length accurately by hooking one of the folding knuckles on the end of what is being measured. For measures 6"' and less I always use my lufkin. For thickness when planing and setting fences when a number matters. And a sliding 6" for depth numbers or inside space numbers. I think every woodworker will enjoy a 6' folding wooden rule. If mine got lost or broken I have an old worn one for right now. But I would immediately get a new one!!! I do like tapes. I have several. Stanley is my favorite. A while back my 10' Stanley bit the dust. I sent it back to Stanley many years later and they sent me a letter apologizing for the failure and no having another 10' to replace it. But would I mind using this new 12'. Made me like them even more.
  20. I have several 20 year old deltas that are all good. I like my unisaw. I did need a new switch for my jointer. All they had was a universal switch. My shop the table saw is the center. Number one companion to the TS is a jointer. If there is a budget for it get a 12" Powermatic. A tamed beast. And you will need a 15" min. Thickness Planer. I have a Jet that works. But before any of this decide if you are going to have a dust collection system. Then some pre planning is needed. The ability to make wide square repeatable crosscuts may be a needed item depending on the work. A slider on the table saw is one way...
  21. I am very early in a project when I am using the planer. Most or all of it is off the wood by the time it is fully dressed. Anything remaining is removed from a lot of sanding. With never a problem in the last 40 years, I will still use silicone spray. I know your critique is all about good consideration. But I respectfully disagree. And you are not the first to make this point. After I spray I wipe with a cotton rag. Maybe that matters.
  22. wax works good. I like silicone spray. I spray and wipe the bed every time I run the planer. If it is a large run I will spray half way through. The wax lasts longer. Quicker to spray...take your pick...
  23. So Dr Derek how many times a day can I feel like you did on the screw up and still be sane? Seriously I know the feeling. And I hate that momentary thought. And immediately feel better when I realize all is well. The thought of the screw up reminds me to be thorough and dry fit. Thanks Derek. I am enjoying this build, the same as all your work.
  24. Wrong router. Needs a lot more power and 1/2" shank bits. Also a pin in the table top is helpful when routing curves. This type of work has a higher level of danger. Watch some videos on the subject. Add extra caution until you find your way.