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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. I got this idea from fine woodworking a long time ago. The bracket on the wall is oak the thickness of the pipes. The oak is cut on a slight angle so with a heavy load it deflects to level. The oak is sandwiched by 2 x 4's. The top bolts go through the concrete blocks. The rest are lagged in. I have had all spaces completely loaded. The pipes are 24" plus and I have loaded it slightly beyond the 24 inches. Not as quick and easy as the KV's but it will hold more.
  2. I always offer defects or odd and different as long as it is solid. It accentuates the natural. From my prospective... I make book match panels per each divided area. In other words on your project I would have 3 book match with narrower center styles, as opposed to 1 book match interrupted by styles. Nonetheless the one you like is very nice.
  3. That tells me it is not how much humidity, But what is the spread between the highs and lows. Not good for Minnesota. What kind of wood?
  4. No it is only 100% in a hard rain. Borneo is 100%. This minute it is 67% and will be in the 50's this afternoon. We do have days 70 to 80%. But we also have AC. The cutting boards live inside at 50 to 60%. The boards are about 8 inches wide and there can be modest movement but not noticeable. Also my cutting board in my kitchen is washed like a plate. And still good. And titebond 3 creeps and allows wood movement. Got that from franklin engineers. Because of the benefit of "creep" the glue cannot be used in trusses or engineered beams by code. But perfect for woodwork. The draw boards no glue I think is over used. The first titebond was in the 60's. The idea of creep was not known. And today still many don't know. Not that the draw board is bad, just not necessary. I called and spoke with an engineer about this and he said with kiln dried wood the glue will creep along with the wood. I use it in many applications. I have old furniture I have built with breadboard ends. All good. Even a 44" oak table. On bigger pieces the body of wood can extend past the rest by as much as 1/16". Frequently less. And then it moves back the other way. Based on the house humidity. In my house I have many examples of glued on end boards and never a problem.
  5. I started out making 10 cutting boards. After culling I made 9. I used 8/4 cherry and sliced off 3/4 strips. Giving me vertical grain. Like quartered cherry. I had no 8/4 maple so I used 4/4 flat grain. I had 2 different pieces of 8/4 and the yield of thickness was different. So i adjusted the width of the maple as needed. These are the ends. Clamped 2 each with no glue in the middle. Ends are dominoes Finished with mineral oil. I have made bunches of these. I give them away. To new neighbors, clients, or when a gift is needed. Occasionally it leads to new work. Much cheaper than advertising. And giving is an addiction that makes me feel good with no side affects. The boards are mostly closed grain wood. I cheated a little with a small piece of walnut.
  6. Good work. I like the pencil holder. Have you thought about using hardwood?
  7. Congratulations on your new baby!!! On average a baby is a 20 year project. And after every new baby you reset the clock. As skilled as you are on wood projects makes me think you can handle the 20 year project(s). Someday your kids may be making furniture for you...How many more kids do you want?
  8. I thought about that. I am concerned about getting finish in the glue joints...Do you think tape would work?
  9. I have one idea of how to do this. Tape. Is there any other way that is better? Thanks
  10. Those interested, Sunday night at 9pm EST on CNN live James Taylor and Carole King. Check for local times. To enhance the experience record it. That way you can fast forward the commercials.
  11. curlyoak


    This is a hybrid tolumnia orchid. Grows in tropical and sub tropical of the Americas. The flower is about an inch high. It is nicknamed dancing lady. The top of the flowers the head and arms and the bottom is the skirt. With a breeze the flower moves around doing its dance. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
  12. Very nice bench. Nice to look at too. What will be your first project using the new bench?
  13. Usually you want the hinges in the corner. The picture tells me that won't work. Hinge away from the corner will work but not as smooth as hinges in the corner.
  14. I have the All in package. Current price new is $2290 delivered. The current all in package includes a bosch router, 2.25 hp. Mine has the porter cable router 3.25 hp. I will consider all offers. There has been limited use of the tool. I have made most of the joints once or twice. The bits have had a few minutes of use. No sharpening required. The router has had less than 1 hour of use. I have not had the time to use it and out of the blue I have big dental bills. p.s. The website has the price a little lower but when you go to check out it shows 2290. Freight.
  15. I have an outdoor WRC bench. If I varnished it it would look nice bit the environment around here would require me to scrape and sand every 2 years. So I didn't varnish it and left it unfinished. Not as pretty but the best part is no maintenance. I might pressure clean the top in a few more years. I have made a few cedar outdoor benches for people and told them about finished or unfinished. I also said if I varnish it does not mean I will refinish it. All chose unfinished.
  16. I think no finish would work here in Florida. Probably need pressure cleaning more often.
  17. A WO front door with the best varnish failed. Mold and mildew got under the finish and made a mess. I thought I could strip it, kill the mildew and re varnish. Wrong. After another try I realized it is the wrong wood. I was told that the cell structure allows mildew to get in. Regardless how much I varnished the door bottom. I was told that red oak would work. Didn't want to go there. So I replaced it with Sapele. Works like a champ. and has nice look. Just like mahogany. There is nothing as good as teak but over the top on cost. And teak contains silica which dulls all edges. People have asked me to do millwork on teak. I agreed only if they pay for the sharpening and the down time. No one is interested in that. This is a subtropical issue. I know WO works in other places. Not here for outside.
  18. All good suggestions. I would also have a small outfeed table for the table saw. I would place it near the garage door. That way you can rip longer than the walls out the door. The door opposing the garage door would be a good place for a thickness planer. It is a good weather idea because my idea feeds out the door. And that means the planner needs a small footprint. The jointer must be near the table saw. Good luck
  19. The finish is Waterlox transparent sealer. I like this finish for low traffic areas. It could be used as a sealer with one coat. Too many coats of this eventually will be a problem. In time it can get gummy with too many coats. When I use this finish I give a can of wax. The finish over time needs wax 2 to 4 times a year. Client always knows this in advance there is modest maintenance (waxing). I suggest semi gloss General oil sealer for no maintenance. I like the Waterlox better in the right situation.
  20. Above is how I will fasten the top. Called a figure 8 Finishing next
  21. curlyoak

    New Shop

    If you have not read this long thread, you owe it to yourself to carefully read all of it, If you do your shop will be amazing.
  22. Before. The top mitred frame is 1/4" above the top of the profile. Or, the top of the molded edge is 1/4" below the horizontal mitred frame.
  23. I started on the top when I had some glue drying. I'll get back to that later. This is an upside down view of the base. Something to attach the next layer. The base. The total exposure of the mitred frame is 1/4" X 1/4". Cove molding will cover the rest. Cove molding will complete all the parts. Yet to be made.
  24. A couple of pain pills yesterday morning helped. Feeling better now. Got some work done this morning. I screwed on some temporary stops for my router. The pucker factor comes into play when I am routing on a piece that is a lot of work. And if there is a screw up a repair would be very challenging to say the least. Hence the pucker. I chamfered away the overlap of the rabbit. But I pulled it off . I am starting on the base. The top is this mitred frame. It will extend 1" all the way around. On that there will be a cove molding setting on the 1" revealing 1/4". I really like this connection of the base. This is my mitre jig. The 45 degrees I made as close as possible. The key to this jig is that I have the opposing fences exactly square. Which means each piece needs to have one 45 on one fence and the other on the opposite fence. If it all comes together then it must be right. I used biscuits for the mitre joints.