curlyoak

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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. The chair backs made it art and over the top. I like the color variations. Do you need a bigger overhang on the ends to accommodate the chairs?
  2. For an average or better band saw I think either way. I imagine the blades are engineered for the typical rip. So I lean towards typical rip.
  3. I feel a well made joint that the pieces fit and needed modest clamp pressure might not last as long as a M&T joint, but using titebond 2 or 3 it will last for decades. I made a cherry 2" coffee table top. Jointed, clamped and glued with titebond in the 70's. I saw it a year ago and it looked like new. It even floated in a flooded house during huricane Katrina. If the M&T does last longer it may not matter. If the world allowed me, I would go back to M&T. Getting people to pay for what they cant see is tough. And competition can be fierce. And I won't work for 50 cents an hour. If
  4. First is financial. How much can you pay and/or finance for this shop. Include tools. Do you have the land? Will most of your work be refinishing, or something else. Build the shop based on the work and money. If you build it on credit you are adding risk. Be aware.
  5. curlyoak

    What's This?

    See if it dulls your tools faster than normal. An indicator for teak...
  6. curlyoak

    What's This?

    Teak! Beautiful and very expensive. Used mostly in marine application. Salt water will not hurt it. I will not work it. It feels somewhat soft but the wood is loaded with silica and that dulls carbide fast.
  7. curlyoak

    12/4 lumber

    Why not ask the source? I think there might be standards within the lumber industry. I think members adhere. For me the only time the rough wood ends up too thin is when it is crooked and takes a lot of work on the jointer and planer to flatten it.
  8. curlyoak

    12/4 lumber

    From my sources on rough sawn hardwood lumber 4/4 is alway 1" or more. Same on other thicknesses. Usually it will dress on 4/4 25/32 to 7/8". On occasion parts of the board is under. Not enough to complain.
  9. Makes me think of Mr. T and all that jewelry. Gaudy. But in that mess there must be something nice.
  10. Knowing when it is enough or too much figured can make or break the piece... good work. Well done!
  11. ESP. Soon I will be starting a floating walnut vanity and a little more. I will post when timely.
  12. Thank you. I do a lot of bread board ends. Many were made with T11. I'm going to get some 11for more creep. Creep is the word that I got from Franklin. Who is Snodgrass. Is he with Franklin?
  13. I think that means water base. Doesn't have to be. The requirement is a non amber varnish on q/ white oak. Kept as light as possible. Please express your favorite high quality brand for this task. Thank you.
  14. I spoke with engineers at site bond. They said the glue creeps. I was asking about bread board ends with dominos. I told them I glue the entire joint and never have had any failure. They say with kd lumber, the creep will resolve the problem. They also said that tight bond will not be allowed on structural like laminated beams because of the creep but especially valuable for furniture to accommodate the movements.
  15. curlyoak

    Photography

    On the sidewalk in front of a local redneck bar...
  16. I have both. I use the small one much more. Get the one you think you will use the most. Based on your projects. Or your next project. A way to save is to make your own dominoes. I have had the small one since it was first introduced. And that is when I stopped making M & T joints. A time saver with high accuracy.
  17. Thank you Kev for stepping up. I never knew about it the podcast. I missed out. But I enjoy this forum.
  18. You have 2 disciplines. Skilled woodworker and precision work in steel. Well done!
  19. Being 16"deep helps vs. top heavy. The 2 boards to be glued should fit together with no pressure. Any variations may be a problem. #2 with pine from home depot will be the least $. If properly done the pipe can mount anywhere. Do you have clamps? And a saw?
  20. I'm in! Kev, this thread is our of the way. Can we put a notice that we are ad free and come sign up in a place that gets a lot of traffic...? Thanks
  21. If the cleat has an angle like the picture It will not come off. The cleat attached to the wall must be properly attached. That is the most important part. The wall needs to be flat or added accommodations will be needed.
  22. curlyoak

    Photography

    Easy on the eyes...
  23. $75 if it runs and the fence works, buy it, much more than a 250 home depot.