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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. Intersting joint. What is a Pinterest win?
  2. You are better off to use a saber saw to get it close. Then perfect it with your router setup.
  3. I had a bad experience with white oak outdoors. I use a lot of Q white oak. Only my front door of 8/4. I did it right. well made. But mold got under the finish. It was ugly. I removed the door, took it down too the wood. Added a wash of some exotic chemicals to kill the mold. Looked good for many months. Mold came back. No more white oak outside. Maybe it is a Florida thing. I don't know. I now have a sapele door. I call it african mahogany. looks feels and smells like it. No more mold. A woodworker is not aloud to have a moldy door for very long. My spirits are much higher with the oak door
  4. I always use stainless steel or brass screws. Mostly stainless. It is an added expense. Here in Florida it makes a big difference. What kind of wood? Western Red Cedar is a good choice. Cypress holds up in the weather.
  5. Wow! That is perfection and beauty!
  6. Go to a shop that does woodwork. Ask for scraps for a breadboard. It would be little or no money. Make something that requires dressing lumber. and glue joints. Sanding and finishing. Something easy and build confidence. The first six months of my informal apprenticeship was how long I was made to wait before I was aloud to touch anything that could hurt me. I was kept busy and was happy after 5 months I was on a tiny trimming router. My teacher lost a finger 2 months in as a kid. When I was finally turned loose I knew what the steps were with confidence. Mostly remember you are de
  7. Ask your lady to be patient. If she goes along with that, then start with some easier projects. New houses will have a lot of projects. You can't speak a new language by tomorrow. Step one is to learn how to dress lumber. If you can't do that right then it will show in the outcome. It is very important. It is like a foundation of a house. If your foundation is not true you will be compensating all the way to the roof. ( little but not much exaggeration.) I wish you luck.
  8. Derek. Thanks for showing your project in detail. Excellent work with an amazing presentation. Besides woodworking I also enjoy you journalistic skills. I have one suggestion. I also like to run shorter material on the jointer. But if real short like you drawer sides you could double up the length as the sides are short anyway. Production will be faster and maybe a tiny bit safer. With Q sawn flat looking lumber, the yield should be about the same. glue double length book match and cut later...All this has no affect on the overall outcome of your excellent work. A little bit of saved time...
  9. Hi Tom. Do you have any experience on big jointers? I have an 8" delta and I love it. I had a good 6". No comparison. And at around 8' with 2x, if wide enough, need a second set of hands. I've used the rollers but they are not optimum. My floor is good but not perfectly level. And if the roller is not 90 degrees to the fence it will push or pull the stock away from the fence. Then a friend in the neighborhood has a very old jumbo 12" that he completely rebuilt. He lets me on it. I have not tried but I think I could run 10' by myself. I did 8'. Setting up a jointer to tip back and forth is be
  10. Down in Florida white oak is inside only due to mold and mildew. I had a door that the mold would get under the spar varnish. Did it twice. Changed the door to mahogany. Working good. Cypress would be a good floor for outside. Get clear lumber and kiln dried or air if long enough. Cypress will split from nailing. Pre-drill works fine. It could be painted or varnished. Paint is easier in the long run.
  11. Mark a line unless you have a giant jointer. You may need to make partial passes at first and finish with one long pass. Work to your line...
  12. I never heard of that term draw bore. But I have been doing it for years. I'm old enough that Can't out live titebond III. If I was younger and because I hate complaints I would do the drawbore. The joint is stronger. And will out live the glue. I have in my house 6 exterior doors I made. 5 have draw bore. Spell check keeps separating drawbore. Also cabinet doors in the kitchen and other areas of the house, draw bore. Those were made 20 years ago. To remake them now I do not know if I would draw bore or not.
  13. If not considered, check out hinged pocket doors. It would be mounted on the sides instead of the top but the door(s) will be out of the way. You will need a cabinet a few inches wider to accommodate the hardware.
  14. The 1 month air dry is if your next step is the kiln. Total 2 months. Or 2" air dry, 2 plus years.
  15. Many years ago I processed a full flatbed truck of black walnut. Instructions from both the mill and kiln were to air dry 1 month. The kiln would take another month. It was all 4/4
  16. To air dry a miller told me an inch to a year plus one. So yours is 3 years. Maybe faster with your low humidity. Basement would work in your environment but better in the garage. Like already said, fans, airflow and exhaust. If there is a kiln near you, you may want to take your lumber after it has dried for a month or 2. Ask the miller about availability of a kiln if interested...
  17. I'm sure they work. Bessy is a good brand. I have and use a lot my short jorgenson pony pipe clamps. My shortest is around 12" and graduate from there. I also have several jorgensons on a heavy rail. 8 of them. Not complaining but I got several clamps second hand so cheap there was no reason to consider alternatives. They were jorgensons and when I got more it was better to have them match. The rail clamps were also too cheap to say no.
  18. Don't like juniors. Based on what you have and the work I do First on my list would be the 18's. But when the cash flow was right and you can visualize a need for a project, get the 50's. I have and like the jorgenson ponies. I have a few pipes different lengths and a couple of female connectors. I know they closed for business so Bessy is quality.
  19. My point is before zirconium I could use 10 belts. Same amount of work with zirconium 3 belts...
  20. I use the blue zirconium from woodworkers supply on my drum sander. I also use it on my belt sander. A few years ago I bought a box of 10 belts. After a long time I finally used up the third belt. And from there the splines on the belt all kept breaking. Not the fault of the splines. It took forever to use up 3 belts. Woodworkers gave me a credit. Now I order 3 belts at a time. I also use it on my 12" disc sander. Woodworker actually manufactures most of their sanding products including all the zirconium stuff.
  21. Great skills and technique. A pleasure to follow. There must be a reason not to clamp the glue joints and only use tape? Thanks for showing your error. It gives me comfort to know that at your skill level you find an answer and get it done. I do that too but I don't like to admit it. A comparison is to see a pro golfer hit an amateur shot like me. Not that I am wishing for an error to see what you do. Maybe the next time I screw up I won't cuss myself out as much...Thank you for a great presentation!
  22. My new way if I am to duplicate something is to take a few pictures. Print in grayscale and add measurements...
  23. I learn a lot from you Steve. Thank you! I wonder with your good vision and experience did you anticipate all of these necessary and exotic efforts to complete this task? And then to calculate how long it will take. It is one very special thing to complete the task you are on. But on top of that to determine the steps involved and predicting how much time you will take in my eyes may be harder than the actual project, as tough a challenge that it is. Do you ever ask the client for time and material for these kind of projects? I am enjoying this project. Thanks.
  24. I had a stanley mini 10' tape that the spring broke. I sent it to stanley to see what would happen. They sent me a new tape and an apology letter and would I please accept a 12' as the 10's are discontinued. It was at least 20 years old...