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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. Beautiful! You should be very proud! Pleasing to the eye. Keep up the good work!
  2. In general, I want to start with rough sawn material because I want to dress it myself. 4/4 is know as four quarter lumber as an example. Or 1 inch thick that will dress to 3/4". Buying pre-dressed material means I am relying on someone else and likely wrong. There is an art to dressing lumber. As a helper a very long time ago, I remember watching many hundreds of feet of lumber being dressed before I made my first attempt. And this was, looking back, done on old but very fine machines that were dialed in perfectly. Not only do you need to know how to do it but your tools need to be in fine tu
  3. NPR. The bit matters. And so does the power. Your router is an exceptional tool like most Festool stuff. It is about 1 1/4hp. Use it for light work. For heavier work you need a bigger router. Sharp bit or not. With your router take shallow, multiple passes to have success on normal work. The sharpness of your bits will not last as long due to heat build up. The 8mm is better than the 1/4". 8mm is 5/16"
  4. This table top is 41" wide. 20 years old. Right now the end cap is longer than the top by about 1/32. In the spring and fall No ac or heat it goes the other way. The end cap is glued with titebond. It might be pre titebond III. 6/4 QWO. No cracks, breaks or problems. I'm lucky...Here in Florida low humidity is around 50%. When it is real high it is also hot. That means AC. Maybe that has something to do with the success. Snow birds leave for the summer. If they do not maintain lower humidity via AC or devices to lower the humidity they will have trouble. I've seen it. Including mold and milde
  5. Saw mills have told me that air dried wood take a year to the inch plus one year. For rustic stuff I don't think it matters. My guess is over time the shape will change a little. I think if burned the smoke is toxic. So is the sap. There may be beautiful figured wood inside.
  6. This shelf was made 28 years ago. Plus or minus a year. There are six more in this unit. All good. Some with a lot of weight. I have made countless shelves like this. Zero problems. And no warping. This was way before dominos. They all have splines with proper consideration of grain direction...
  7. The end joint has dominos. It is very strong. I have made shelves like this many times including in my house. Not only strong but I believe helps keep the shelf flat. The only issue is that with movement sometimes the end piece is to big and sometimes to small from the movement. The slots for the dominos are wider than the domino. Titebond allows movement. Never had a break or crack. And it is QS white oak, kiln dried. This has a reputation for minimal movement...
  8. Is this your first attempt to make a joint like this?
  9. I,m close to finishing. I'm making 8 shelves solid oak bread board ended. When they are done, a few more hours, a big cleanup and start finishing...
  10. Did you dress the lumber? If the thickness is different from edge to edge it is hard to get good results...
  11. treeslayer, I think your idea would work. Getting the L patterns perfect to square adds to the challenge. also the hand chiseling. I think what I did is easier and more accurate. Also less tools required. But is is another option...The notch backs up into a face frame and is easy to see.. I might lose some of the crispness.
  12. Steve, this is a very heavy chunk of 2" oak. I could not do this on the band saw even to finish off the cut. Perhaps your accommodations make it possible?
  13. This issue 40 years old and still works. Today there are better performing sabre saws, but will they last? This will cut 2" oak...
  14. How can you make this perfect 90 degree cut? This is an 8/4 x 24 x 74 top. On smaller pieces easy on the table saw. I ripped it and left it longer than needed. Then I cut to length both the short piece and the longer piece. Then I glued them together. Perfect. The long joint is hidden because it is the same board. Could be chiseled. Or routed and deal with the iner radius. If it is not a clean 90 it will show as it is in a conspicuous spot. I can't think of a better way...any thoughts?
  15. I use waterlox. Perfect for me. No room for a spray booth. After the big clean up there is some dust in the air. No problem. Buff it out and by the second coat no more airborne dust. And I like the finish. I imagine you are familiar with waterlox. I use the transparent sealer. 3 to 4 coats.
  16. Kind words from an excellent source. Thank you. I will look into the kv8405. Thanks for the tip. Another tip you mentioned previously is turn off the compressor. And I now do that. You have a lot of good ideas. Appreciated!
  17. Top is done. 2 tricks. Making the top with the end having a clean 90 degree on the ends is easy on smaller stuff like a cabinet door. But on a large, thick, heavy top, that is not possible. So I ripped it and joined it and glued it back together. Because it is the same board, the joint is invisible. Next is the routed edge. Above is a partial cut with the router. It would be tough to route the edge and avoid cutting into the cut so I clamped on a temporary block of wood. Worked fine. Next is to make 8 shelves bread board ended. That still leaves the base molding but I choose to add that o
  18. Please provide all dimensions. This table is 18" wide and 36" tall. It is extremely stable.
  19. On the base unit, each end gets a frame and panel. The back edge of the panel will touch the face of the book shelves. It makes an easy install because I intend to leave a 1/4" gap on the plywood behind the frame. If needed I could open the gap up to 3/4" but I do not expect to do so. There will be a base molding along the bottom everywhere. Added on the installation. This frame and panel is a design change. Originally it was to be a solid piece of 3/4" oak around 9" wide. I called it off. Everywhere on this project is frame and panel. Invented 300 years ago to deal with wood movement. I was
  20. Very Nice!. Please tell how you layed out the the curves on the ends and sides. Thanks
  21. A heavy day on my planer it requires a second application of silicone...
  22. Still you need a more powerful router with a 1/2" chuck. I'm certain my work would be much less quality if I used the wrong router. Unless amount of wood removed is small, then it would be OK. Once you get the right stuff you will realize how much better your work will be...
  23. Got the drawers built and installed. They are friction drawers. I use a center guide that rides in the channel but does not touch on the bottom of the guide. The drawer sides bottoms is where the friction is. I add paraffin to all the contact areas. Here is a good trick. On the drawer side bottoms I run it on the joiner a little on the fast side. That creates a mini scallop on the bottoms. That way the amount touching is reduced a lot. Bushwack, the shelf is off and you can see the cleats. I'm getting there...