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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. You can buy an incra mitre gage . Does more tasks than a sled. For many including me the number one tool is the table saw. Second starts to vary but 2nd most important is the jointer. In my early days I would joint a face then rip it to thickness. Back then that allowed me 6" wide boards. Since you did not mention planers I will say in a project Step one is dressing your material. It is critical and affects the outcome. Learn that and get tools for that. Most here prefer to dress their own lumber. Start with rough sawn boards. All that can be done with hand tools and some here do that. It is s
  2. I didn't think it was painted. Nice touch!
  3. Fine furniture that pleases my eyes. Great work. Is the turquoise painted on or stones?
  4. Failure can be a learning experience and a test of character. If it is my fault then I must resolve it. And sometimes I will step in if it is not my fault. Depending. If you do not have some failure, you are not trying hard enough. Collin, it appears you have taken the high road to demonstrate good character! They must have a good opinion of you to ask you to build more.
  5. Thank you for your replies. I will use 1 x 4's c clamped on. On several occasions on this site people have said just like Kev and wtnhighlander that light pressure is all that is needed with a well made joint. I have never done that. I looked up the titebond site and they recommend 200 to 300 psi on the clamps for hardwoods. less for soft. I have made light pressure joints using epoxy. That worked. But never with titebond. I never had a failure with reasonable pressure. And the brand recommends it. The pinch clamps would make holes on the end of the boards... The stock is 5/4 dressed
  6. beech is a perfect choice. Frequently beech is used in tool stock. Like a saw handle or hand planes etc. I believe it is perfect for your application.
  7. That table is a legacy. Be sure to sign and date it. One of my goals in woodworking is the piece outlasts me. This table will outlast all grandfathers. Good stuff!
  8. I have a project to make a walnut top. I have 2 pieces from a flitch with a live edge on either side. The challenge is to clamp the joint and protect the live edge. I was thinking about gluing on the surface temporary wood blocks for clamping then remove and sand it out, There must be a better way. Any ideas? Thanks. Maybe C clamp 1 x 2's on each edge?
  9. The mistake is it is too good to use! This is not your first rodeo. More of a fortress than a bench. The bench will out last you and at least another lifetime. Sign and date your bench! Maybe leave a hidden note to make tight joints...It is a legacy.
  10. looks like some kind of mahogany. Do not glue over finished wood. Needs to be raw for glue.
  11. Intersting joint. What is a Pinterest win?
  12. You are better off to use a saber saw to get it close. Then perfect it with your router setup.
  13. I had a bad experience with white oak outdoors. I use a lot of Q white oak. Only my front door of 8/4. I did it right. well made. But mold got under the finish. It was ugly. I removed the door, took it down too the wood. Added a wash of some exotic chemicals to kill the mold. Looked good for many months. Mold came back. No more white oak outside. Maybe it is a Florida thing. I don't know. I now have a sapele door. I call it african mahogany. looks feels and smells like it. No more mold. A woodworker is not aloud to have a moldy door for very long. My spirits are much higher with the oak door
  14. I always use stainless steel or brass screws. Mostly stainless. It is an added expense. Here in Florida it makes a big difference. What kind of wood? Western Red Cedar is a good choice. Cypress holds up in the weather.
  15. Wow! That is perfection and beauty!
  16. Go to a shop that does woodwork. Ask for scraps for a breadboard. It would be little or no money. Make something that requires dressing lumber. and glue joints. Sanding and finishing. Something easy and build confidence. The first six months of my informal apprenticeship was how long I was made to wait before I was aloud to touch anything that could hurt me. I was kept busy and was happy after 5 months I was on a tiny trimming router. My teacher lost a finger 2 months in as a kid. When I was finally turned loose I knew what the steps were with confidence. Mostly remember you are de
  17. Ask your lady to be patient. If she goes along with that, then start with some easier projects. New houses will have a lot of projects. You can't speak a new language by tomorrow. Step one is to learn how to dress lumber. If you can't do that right then it will show in the outcome. It is very important. It is like a foundation of a house. If your foundation is not true you will be compensating all the way to the roof. ( little but not much exaggeration.) I wish you luck.
  18. Derek. Thanks for showing your project in detail. Excellent work with an amazing presentation. Besides woodworking I also enjoy you journalistic skills. I have one suggestion. I also like to run shorter material on the jointer. But if real short like you drawer sides you could double up the length as the sides are short anyway. Production will be faster and maybe a tiny bit safer. With Q sawn flat looking lumber, the yield should be about the same. glue double length book match and cut later...All this has no affect on the overall outcome of your excellent work. A little bit of saved time...
  19. Hi Tom. Do you have any experience on big jointers? I have an 8" delta and I love it. I had a good 6". No comparison. And at around 8' with 2x, if wide enough, need a second set of hands. I've used the rollers but they are not optimum. My floor is good but not perfectly level. And if the roller is not 90 degrees to the fence it will push or pull the stock away from the fence. Then a friend in the neighborhood has a very old jumbo 12" that he completely rebuilt. He lets me on it. I have not tried but I think I could run 10' by myself. I did 8'. Setting up a jointer to tip back and forth is be
  20. Down in Florida white oak is inside only due to mold and mildew. I had a door that the mold would get under the spar varnish. Did it twice. Changed the door to mahogany. Working good. Cypress would be a good floor for outside. Get clear lumber and kiln dried or air if long enough. Cypress will split from nailing. Pre-drill works fine. It could be painted or varnished. Paint is easier in the long run.
  21. Mark a line unless you have a giant jointer. You may need to make partial passes at first and finish with one long pass. Work to your line...
  22. I never heard of that term draw bore. But I have been doing it for years. I'm old enough that Can't out live titebond III. If I was younger and because I hate complaints I would do the drawbore. The joint is stronger. And will out live the glue. I have in my house 6 exterior doors I made. 5 have draw bore. Spell check keeps separating drawbore. Also cabinet doors in the kitchen and other areas of the house, draw bore. Those were made 20 years ago. To remake them now I do not know if I would draw bore or not.
  23. If not considered, check out hinged pocket doors. It would be mounted on the sides instead of the top but the door(s) will be out of the way. You will need a cabinet a few inches wider to accommodate the hardware.
  24. The 1 month air dry is if your next step is the kiln. Total 2 months. Or 2" air dry, 2 plus years.