curlyoak

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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. From a personal taste point of view, I would make the panels figured and book matched. I like the wow factor that matched figured creates...
  2. Also the longer the requirement the thinner in most cases. A short piece could be very true to start...
  3. Unfortunately I know surgery is no fun. But you will be completely better in time. Some stuff comes and never goes. Not this. And you have the support of a concerned and caring wife. All the best Dave!
  4. Done to a fine art! I like the feet. It was a privilege to watch this build. So well done! And this is like communicating with the author of a magazine, but better. Thanks for sharing this!
  5. I like figured wood. I know there is some beautiful figured maple of various types. I'm familiar with figured wood but no experience in figured maple. Any working experiences with figured maple?
  6. I live in Florida. Where do you live? I have stored some wood in a garage, in the rough. On 1 x 4 on concrete. Not an issue. But I am not comfortable buying s3s. Sometimes I get one edge only. I have had bad experiences from me not dressing the wood.
  7. It depends on the type of saw blade you have and the nature of your work. At my local supplier they have stacks of specialty blades for sale. Big shops will dedicate one table saw to cut nothing but particle board. There are special blades for that. Most of us need a combination blade. I do keep a 40 tooth crosscut in a drawer if needed on some miter work or some other reason that might pop up. Also if you like the saw blade you might think about owning 2. It takes up to 2 weeks for me to get a blade back. Good carbide tools should be re-sharpened as long as the outcome is still good. I just
  8. those woods above will work and so will western red cedar also cypress does well in the weather. No sap on the cypress...I think the key to making the wood last is that all the water drains off. If it stands for a long time on the wood could be trouble. Maybe a drill hole to drain water if necessary?
  9. This has my attention. I will enjoy the ride. To make full size drawings of a large piece means to me you have a very large shop?
  10. A big factor on the 4" boards is the grain. Typically narrow stock has some or a lot of heart wood. That is not stable. Also what kind of wood and what grade. And how dry is it. Many decades ago, my first project. The boss was traveling and I could use the shop. I bought the lowest grade of walnut. All heart wood with a pith in the center. It splintered apart. It never happened to me again. It motivated me to find out how and why. Tom's table above looks like there is good grain to the wood...
  11. I cut to length the least I will need. If I needed several 2" wide pieces 18" long I will not make long rippings then cut to length. Plywood is OK. With solid wood I recently needed 7' rips 2 1/4" wide. The first rip is around 2 5/8". So I could re-true it. 1 or 2 rips won't pass grade. Sometimes it comes off perfect to warp. Not too often. It has to do with grain tensions. The center of the tree is much different than near the sap wood. Sometimes it appears to give a clue and sometimes false clues. Hard to figure. Part of the waste factor and hard to calculate.
  12. A secret compartment. The back of a drawer. The stop is not visible installed. Project gets installed the end of this month.
  13. Feet can look good too. It was just too low. I'm sure when you are done with it it will be just right!
  14. In my early years of woodwork money was a big issue. And I would "graciously accede" after suggesting the best approach. I still work for money but the importance now is more about the work. So if a request to alter the design or other egregious efforts on the project I then politely decline the work. It feels good to not let money be the only factor. I can no longer go down the path that harms the project and in the long run the client. That is a lose, lose situation because if you do exactly what is asked I will likely be bad mouthed by the client. Now I walk away...
  15. Brad your work is excellent. Tell the client curly says the overall experience of caulked in glass outweighs the minimal benefit of removing the glass. I like it when the client asks what is best. The project is always better. As it is it is beautiful. However I would add a base. There are many designs to consider and easy to add to what you have. I would do it for looks and I like the bottom shelf off the floor. Regardless, this is fine furniture.
  16. Good work David. How did you finish it?
  17. In my very early woodworking I did use Honduras and remember the wide boards. We also used Philippine mahogany. It was beautiful but some would look down their noses at the Philippine. 18" wide boards were common. Point is the working characteristic were good on either. Just like sapele. None of it is as good as the old days but on a relative basis to other woods it is easy to machine and the ribbon grained was and is beautiful.
  18. In the old days pattern makers exclusively used Honduras mahogany. It was used among other places in Detroit in the auto industry for making castings. The wood was chosen for its great working ability. sapele is not Hondorus mahogany. But it leans that way...
  19. I designed the glass. I have no knowledge on making stained glass panels. In town there is a shop that is very good at it. Thank you both for the comments on the door. As a hobby I grow orchids and that inspired the design. That and heliconias.
  20. I like sapale. It is kin to mahogany. From Africa. My preference is quarter sawn which always is what is called ribbon grained. It is easy to work. The outside pic shows the grain. Outside the camera gets reflection from the glass. Just the camera, not the eye. So the inside shows the glass. I designed the glass and had an expert execute the design. The flat sawn is OK but to me I like the ribbon. It is excellent in the weather, properly finished...
  21. You are adding to your legacy. It should outlast you. That bed will stay with your daughter as she goes through life. She will never forget who made it. Multi generation furniture. A signature and a date will prove valuable in the future!
  22. Beautiful! You should be very proud! Pleasing to the eye. Keep up the good work!
  23. In general, I want to start with rough sawn material because I want to dress it myself. 4/4 is know as four quarter lumber as an example. Or 1 inch thick that will dress to 3/4". Buying pre-dressed material means I am relying on someone else and likely wrong. There is an art to dressing lumber. As a helper a very long time ago, I remember watching many hundreds of feet of lumber being dressed before I made my first attempt. And this was, looking back, done on old but very fine machines that were dialed in perfectly. Not only do you need to know how to do it but your tools need to be in fine tu
  24. NPR. The bit matters. And so does the power. Your router is an exceptional tool like most Festool stuff. It is about 1 1/4hp. Use it for light work. For heavier work you need a bigger router. Sharp bit or not. With your router take shallow, multiple passes to have success on normal work. The sharpness of your bits will not last as long due to heat build up. The 8mm is better than the 1/4". 8mm is 5/16"
  25. This table top is 41" wide. 20 years old. Right now the end cap is longer than the top by about 1/32. In the spring and fall No ac or heat it goes the other way. The end cap is glued with titebond. It might be pre titebond III. 6/4 QWO. No cracks, breaks or problems. I'm lucky...Here in Florida low humidity is around 50%. When it is real high it is also hot. That means AC. Maybe that has something to do with the success. Snow birds leave for the summer. If they do not maintain lower humidity via AC or devices to lower the humidity they will have trouble. I've seen it. Including mold and milde