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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. Nice work Chet! Well executed. If you went all out and added a fine woodworking unit, That would be over kill. And a waste of your skilled labor. What happened to the small 4 drawer unit in the first picture? Looked like some of your good work.
  2. Hi bushwacked. There are oak cleats on each end, then me and a friend lift it and slide it on the cleat. It was up and down several times to scribe it. It is heavy on a ladder...The pipe clamp on top stays until tear down and finish time. a safety issue.
  3. Hey Woz, what about an exhaust fan. I live in south Florida and I think my humidity is about the same as yours but no rust problem over night. Sometimes I do not go into my shop in the summer. I spray a mist of oil on my cast beds and fences...I have a 2 car garage door that I open when I'm in my shop. And a back door with a big fan blowing out.
  4. Sliding trays complete. Face QSWO, 3/4 red oak veneer sides and backs. 1/2 oak veneer bottoms. kv8400 slides drawers next...
  5. Unless the purpose is to line up the joint only and strength is not needed, otherwise I make splines perpendicular on the grain. I also have not made a spline for some time now that I have the domino.
  6. I like this new topic. I do not use pocket screws. In hidden areas I will use pin nails and glue. If I add for a sliding dovetail that never will be seen then my bid is not competitive. If building cabinets for a garage pocket screws may be a good solution. Unless the garage houses Rolls Royce and other exotic cars. Then no pocket screws. If this is advanced non professional and the clock is not an issue, then never pocket screws. Not my website but my 2 cents. And regardless of my thoughts I will follow the rules.
  7. I have been using titebond from the beginning. Then tb 2 and now tb 3. If the edges were not dressed true and straight it could be a problem. Otherwise my guess is there is no better choice than titebond 3. It seems to be flexible enough to move with the movement of the wood. Even with age. That is starting with dry wood...
  8. Doors done. And it continues...
  9. When I get some finish going later I think the inlay will be looking good. This is the back side of the shelf. I built several mini i beams. It is glued and toe pin nailed to the bottom. I nailed through the top of the shelf. The shelf is 7' up. aAnd the holes a filled and sanded anyway. The I beams were fast and easy.
  10. I've seen barns with the ridge of the roof sticks out several feet. Then pulleys and rope pull up heavy stuff to an upper door...
  11. Are there stopping points where you can clamp and glue 2 sides, them marry the 2 previously glued and clamped piece at a later time?
  12. From start to finish it was fun to watch. Well executed. And presented as a teacher. Why not wax the whole table instead of just the top?
  13. Let us know how much time in the dry fit. You probably can use it right out of the bottle. Do you live in a humid or dry climate? Either can make a difference. I read titebond recommends no more than 5% water. And the post above about titebond 2 extend.
  14. Chances are you will get your 13/16" for drawer front and top. But if you don't, so what? You should be able to do it with 3/4 or 7/8". Good luck and keep us posted...
  15. I have used my 5" makita for a long time and still going.
  16. I like makita. Besides the orbital sander, I have 2 hand drills and a belt sander. For battery operated tools consider a single brand if possible. The batteries are interchangeable.
  17. There is a shelf. 2 glued up 4/4 QWO I made mini I beams. Glued and pin nailed from the inside and the top. Over 7'. I added an inlay of curly to the front of the shelf.
  18. Do you have a hand truck or a dollie?
  19. Nothing to tell you on carving. I am a woodworker, not a carver. But one of the friendliest woods to work with some grain and color is American Black Walnut. From my point of view, walnut is like a beautiful lady in every way and rarely says no. You can work against the grain with less complaining than other woods. I would never do this but you can drive a nail in it and likely will not split. And it has a distinct and pleasant aroma. It is not balsa which is a good choice for carvers sometimes. Walnut will polish to a nice luster and is a nice wood for carving or woodworking! Good luck!
  20. Why is it imperative to use plywood? Why not use solid? The thickness of veneer is so slight. Solid you can have a better chance of success.
  21. I would add consider spending a little more and get 1/2" shank bits along with a router with decent power. 2hp. or more.
  22. The foot print. There will be a 4" thick shelf high up and in the middle. Still a lot of work to do...
  23. Beautiful everything. Really nice lumber. Excellent design. Execution second to none. One thing I would do different. I would piece in spline with the grain turned 90 degrees. That way it is unbreakable...If the glue goes beyond the spline it is still strong enough. If the purpose is to locate alignment only then it doesn't matter.
  24. I like water lox, transparent sealer. 3 or 4 coats. Countertop not cutting food. To refreshen hit it with 400, a good cleaning and one coat water lox. It will stink after application. Wait for days that windows can be opened and have a strong portable fan available, blowing out.