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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. I have a makita triming router that is 1.25 horse. I use it for morticing hinges. A real shallow cut. Perfect for that router. So you are under powered. I was making dado's with my router on oak. Made it with ease in one pass. A 2.5 horse with a 1/2" shaft to the bit. So you are under powered and probably using 1/4" shaft bits. My guess is you have the wrong tool for the job. Concept is good that you chose a router. I never use 1/4" shafts except when using the makita for light work.
  2. My dust remedy is to open the back door and turn a big fan on high blowing outward. I would enjoy summer AC here in hot humid florida. But I think the AC would choke up real fast with all the flying dust. It may also violate the warranty.
  3. And thanks for your nice words. The project has slowed a little in the recent past. I'm suffering from the flu. Hate it but I'm get better each day. Besides, I'm retired so on a good day I'll work 4 hours. Hard to call it work though...
  4. I do like figured wood. Curly oak included. Due to cost, labor and materials, It is not so easy to get my customers to pay up. If I used some exotic high priced veneer plywood for the bulk heads in the picture, I could reduce labor by 75%. I'm fortunate that there are some that like it and are willing to pay for it. I only build on custom orders and order material as the project requires. When and if I find exceptional figured wood and a fair price, I buy it. Project or not. It does not come around that often...
  5. Amana bits are another top choice. 1.25 horse is underpowered for a big demand. But if you set up first for a partial removal then readjust for either a second or maybe a third pass. The less power the less stock you can remove each pass.
  6. What krtwood said. Sometimes the desired rout is too much on one pass. I like to remove about 75% on the first pass if I have the power for it. Then i can move fast on the second cut which eliminates the burn. Lets see you bit. It could be dull or broken. Got a picture?
  7. I have 4 doors to make and they will have curly panels. I saved the best for the doors...
  8. a group picture of the bulkheads of the2 towers. There will be a shelf 4" thick, or appear that way, Between the 2 towers. That is why the rails on top are different... The back bottom is notched for a marble base molding on the wall.
  9. Steve, by adding filler to this well made bedside piece, does it make the finish different? I agree, why would you.
  10. Steve, What happens when you use fillers on closed grain?
  11. typically fillers are used on open grain wood. Cherry like maple and others are closed grain and wood like walnut and oak are open grain. You can easily see the pores in the open grain woods. My personal taste prefers to see the pores not filled.
  12. As I said already it is so easy to test any square. Take a piece to plywood 12" wide or wider. Put your square on it and strike a line. From that exact place simply roll the square 180 degrees from the same edge. If the line matches up and if the edge is straight you have a good square. Because it is starrett, I'd bet on the square. This test takes seconds once you have the right piece of lumber. Framing squares frequently are off. One day I walked into home depot, with lumber on my cart, I walked by the squares. I took their entire inventory of their framing squares for a test and the al
  13. Very good work. Had I just seen the final box with no explanation I would not assume you are a beginner. A faster way to thin the wood is to rip it on edge on the table saw a little thicker than required and bring it the rest of the way with your plane and sanding. If you have a 10" saw the max cut is 3". That means you can do this up to 6". On occasion I would finish the rest with a hand saw if I needed a little wider. Depending on the wood and how much needs to be cut, I will do it in 2 or 3 stages. Do not try this if you do not currently have the confidence. It can be dangerous. I mak
  14. Simple. Take a pic of flat lumber. Plywood is good at least 12" wide and12 long. Set your square on the middle of a straight edge. Strike a line. Now flip the square on the same edge. If the square is true and the edge is true the square will match the scribed previous line. If the square is off so will the line not match the square.
  15. K Cooper, the panels you see will be used for the 2 towers. In the picture the panels are resting on the styles. The drawer fronts will not be curly. It is quartered white oak. I love figured wood. For my taste too much figured can be overwhelming. Kinda like Mr. T. Ten pounds of jewelry around his neck looks ostentatious. In that 10 pounds there may be some great art work. And that alone would look good. I like to show it off. Steve, I was making quarter turns and giving it 3 passes. I'll try your way. Do you make one pass per turn? It is a slow process. But I like the outcome!
  16. The joints of the styles and rails are backwards. A general idea...
  17. Mine is a 16/32 Jet. I feel that it is under powered. As the area in contact became wider, it would bog down under load. My max width was 8". I do not remember the power of the motor. I'll check later...
  18. Steve, what kind of sander are you using?
  19. Felt wears out. Starboard lasts forever.
  20. I have not. I think you would be subject to tear out. And sanding is the safe choice. The wood is to valuable to risk it. Every fraction of an inch you are changing from with the grain to against. Over and over. You'd need a very sharp plane. It would still tear out. I liked the results. I'll stick with my process...
  21. Very nice! The wood colors have a good feel. I like the walnut feet. I think I would add to the bottom of the feet a small piece of high tech plastic. The table will likely last a long time. Someone will slide the table, not lift it. It could chip out walnut on the bottom. But if you lift it a fraction sliding will never be a problem...I have used this stuff that comes in sheets of various thicknesses called starboard. Used in marine a lot. Counter sink a stainless screw to hold it.