curlyoak

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Everything posted by curlyoak

  1. I have 4 doors to make and they will have curly panels. I saved the best for the doors...
  2. a group picture of the bulkheads of the2 towers. There will be a shelf 4" thick, or appear that way, Between the 2 towers. That is why the rails on top are different... The back bottom is notched for a marble base molding on the wall.
  3. Steve, by adding filler to this well made bedside piece, does it make the finish different? I agree, why would you.
  4. Steve, What happens when you use fillers on closed grain?
  5. typically fillers are used on open grain wood. Cherry like maple and others are closed grain and wood like walnut and oak are open grain. You can easily see the pores in the open grain woods. My personal taste prefers to see the pores not filled.
  6. As I said already it is so easy to test any square. Take a piece to plywood 12" wide or wider. Put your square on it and strike a line. From that exact place simply roll the square 180 degrees from the same edge. If the line matches up and if the edge is straight you have a good square. Because it is starrett, I'd bet on the square. This test takes seconds once you have the right piece of lumber. Framing squares frequently are off. One day I walked into home depot, with lumber on my cart, I walked by the squares. I took their entire inventory of their framing squares for a test and the al
  7. Very good work. Had I just seen the final box with no explanation I would not assume you are a beginner. A faster way to thin the wood is to rip it on edge on the table saw a little thicker than required and bring it the rest of the way with your plane and sanding. If you have a 10" saw the max cut is 3". That means you can do this up to 6". On occasion I would finish the rest with a hand saw if I needed a little wider. Depending on the wood and how much needs to be cut, I will do it in 2 or 3 stages. Do not try this if you do not currently have the confidence. It can be dangerous. I mak
  8. Simple. Take a pic of flat lumber. Plywood is good at least 12" wide and12 long. Set your square on the middle of a straight edge. Strike a line. Now flip the square on the same edge. If the square is true and the edge is true the square will match the scribed previous line. If the square is off so will the line not match the square.
  9. K Cooper, the panels you see will be used for the 2 towers. In the picture the panels are resting on the styles. The drawer fronts will not be curly. It is quartered white oak. I love figured wood. For my taste too much figured can be overwhelming. Kinda like Mr. T. Ten pounds of jewelry around his neck looks ostentatious. In that 10 pounds there may be some great art work. And that alone would look good. I like to show it off. Steve, I was making quarter turns and giving it 3 passes. I'll try your way. Do you make one pass per turn? It is a slow process. But I like the outcome!
  10. The joints of the styles and rails are backwards. A general idea...
  11. Mine is a 16/32 Jet. I feel that it is under powered. As the area in contact became wider, it would bog down under load. My max width was 8". I do not remember the power of the motor. I'll check later...
  12. Steve, what kind of sander are you using?
  13. Felt wears out. Starboard lasts forever.
  14. I have not. I think you would be subject to tear out. And sanding is the safe choice. The wood is to valuable to risk it. Every fraction of an inch you are changing from with the grain to against. Over and over. You'd need a very sharp plane. It would still tear out. I liked the results. I'll stick with my process...
  15. Very nice! The wood colors have a good feel. I like the walnut feet. I think I would add to the bottom of the feet a small piece of high tech plastic. The table will likely last a long time. Someone will slide the table, not lift it. It could chip out walnut on the bottom. But if you lift it a fraction sliding will never be a problem...I have used this stuff that comes in sheets of various thicknesses called starboard. Used in marine a lot. Counter sink a stainless screw to hold it.
  16. I love this wood. It is a lot of work to get to this point. When you plane you must leave it thicker than the final dimension. Because it will tear and leave big holes in the wood. Sanding is much more work doing curly oak. Multiple passes on my drum sander. It leaves deep groves even though the drum is 100g. Next I used my 5" makita random orb sander starting with 60 grit to get the drum marks out. Then to 100 then 220. Every top of every curl is very similar to end grain. That adds to the time and the amount of sanding disks required. One coat of sealer. I'm building a wall unit. Two bo
  17. The center piece is a guide. The friction point is the 2 sides only. There is paraffin in the wood chanel and the bottom of the drawer sides.
  18. Friction drawer is all wood. No glides. But paraffin will make them glide. Add paraffin once every 5 to 10 years. My friction drawers have bearing on the sides with a non bearing center guide. I like oak drawer sides and guides...
  19. Walnut is used sparingly in Florida. I think it is the tropical nature of things. I use it. All local designers use it with consideration. Rarely in a small room.White oak with outdoor exposure in Florida is a problem. I had a door I liked with 2 lower claro walnut raised panel, with an oak frame. Mold got under the finish. I refinished and the mold returned. one more time then a replacement. Orchids and heliconias I designed the glass. A local artisan executed the design. African mahogany. I forgot the actual name. I know someone here will know. No more mold problem. The old
  20. I like the combination of walnut and oak also. However I have received some push back by a lot of people. Clients do not want it. But it works for me!
  21. Thank you all. So kind. And my shell thanks you too!
  22. I got the shell when I was in Jamaica. An Islander was selling them on the beach.