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About procell40

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    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday April 4

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    Central Massachusetts
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand Tools , Power Tools , Shop Set up

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  1. procell40

    Shop Aprons ?

    Twig and Bones Canvas Apron. Got this as a gift , and love it. quality canvas , the leather is strong and durable , and very comfortable. It's handmade and I just googled it for the first time. only 32$! From the fit and finish of it , i would of easily paid 75-100 for it.
  2. procell40

    Roubo Build ! (First real project! Yikes)

    Thanks for posting this! I'll run some 'regular' wide boards though it and double check things that way , if that's still square , I won't worry too much about it. I wondered it if was just because of the tall thin nature of the boards. My wider boards (2.1+) had less issues than my thinnest boards (7/8) . I'll run a couple at a time if I need to do that again.
  3. procell40

    Roubo Build ! (First real project! Yikes)

    Not much to update , ripped everything to ~4.5" (ow my arms) then ran everything through the planer to square and finish up the last edge. halfway through realized my planer outfeed tables were way out of line. Fixed those up , but still noticed squaring issues , i'll have to see how to calibrate my dewalt 735 to get true parallel faces. It could also be my new helix cutter head (I hope not). Since I really haven't cut anything that needed to be perfectly square and parallel since that was installed. everything is at 4 3/8" (ow my arms) , and I have perfect dimensions for the front and rear slab widths. I only have 2 boards left over , and neither are decent enough for my dog strip laminate , so I'll have to hit the lumber yard for some more ash. I'm a little worried , since I bought over 100 BF the first time around , and that got me exactly the slabs (minus dog hole strip and front laminate). and 2 boards left over , when according to the cut list , I should of gotten: Top, Legs and Rails, Roller Bracket, Sliding Deadman - listed as "minimum 101 bf raw stock needed" The Lumber yard is over an hour away , so hopefully they'll have enough stock so I only have to go once. And Hopefully I get enough , without getting too much The wood there is all kiln dried , and usually pretty good when I hit it with the moisture meter , but how long is the minimum I should let it acclimate in my shop? If the moisture readings match my existing ash , just work with it right away ? or should I wait a few weeks 'to be safe' ? Not sure when I'll be able to glue up , Need to borrow my brothers domino and get that done This weekend I'll be at Fine Woodworking Live ( I can just corner Mark and ask him all my newbie questions! He'll love that I bet!!) , and hopefully I can get up to the lumber yard the weekend after. I do have a giant 16/4 piece of soft maple that's big enough for 2 end caps , so I guess I can mill that up while on my down time. Man , I wish I bought more lumber to start off with But I still have a lot to do with the slabs still.
  4. procell40

    New Member

    Central Mass here! Welcome!
  5. procell40

    Roubo Build ! (First real project! Yikes)

    That's a good point , didn't even think of that. Also just realized i jointed the "easier" edge for each board , to have the least amount of material removed......... without really checking what part of the board would be best to keep.... my taller boards are fine , but those getting closer and closer to 4 might have some knots on the underside now. Ah well , could be worse , and maybe my mistakes will help others down the road
  6. procell40

    Roubo Build ! (First real project! Yikes)

    not fighting it now all the positives i said about that jointer in earlier posts i take back. Checked the fence again for 90 , and it was off , and this time around it took me a ton of changes before it was back to square. Just finished up the last of it now anyways (Let's hope my slabs are square!!) Which leads me to my first build question....... I marked the freshly jointed edge (with that ribbon squiggle , whatever that is) , so i know which side to put along the TS fence so i can trim the boards to side...... But i didn't mark the face of the board that was up against the jointer fence... Since i skip planed every board (a decent amount too , each side are smooth as glass) , Can i safely assume that both faces are 90 to my jointed edge? And it won't matter which face a put face down on the table saw? On paper it makes sense......but then again I once thought you could mill a board 4 side square with just a jointer.... Am i overthinking things? Thanks
  7. procell40

    Roubo Build ! (First real project! Yikes)

    I was going to bite the bullet on a long bed 6" delta , but it needed some restoration , and I was eager to get started. Didn't want to use up my next 2-3 weekends on fixing up a jointer. Plus , i figured , for hundreds of years people got by with a #8 stanley my little 34" craftsman should be just's not great , but I'll work with what I have for now I'm going to save up for a nice 8" down the road the used jointer market here in New England is pretty slim pickings it seems. ok , enough babbling , going to go finish up jointing the edges so then i can tune up my tablesaw so i can trim all the boards to a uniform width! Thanks
  8. procell40

    Roubo Build ! (First real project! Yikes)

    Tools are all mine (minus the track saw) , but the completed projects are all hand me downs The bench with the sanders on it was my brothers , he got rid of it to make room for his 4' x 8' CnC , same with the plywood cabinet , that was his old CnC computer stand. the PaulK bench was all CnC'd too ( I did put it together though!) Planer cart I did make though , but as soon as I finish the bench , and a few other projects , I'll be remaking that as well, without a screw gun and a circular saw , and a stack of scrap 2x4's The videos are incredible , I was a little gun shy on spending the money on the project , not really knowing the extent of the instruction you get , but i figured it's a 1 time build , and would be worth it. It's completely worth it! I'll be buying more guild projects in the future. After reviewing the video's , and the blueprints , I don't think it's overly difficult as well (in my head) , just the skills are lacking , and I actually repeating what Marc does in practice should help me learn a ton (I've used a router table , and a trim router , but never a plunge router for example...)
  9. procell40

    Roubo Build ! (First real project! Yikes)

    Oh I'm already learning tons , and hope to learn alot more! Got a fancy dial jig and some other items on sale , and wanted to double check that my jointer was set up correctly before i did my 'final' edge jointing....... the rest of the day , i didn't touch another piece of wood.... At one point my jointer was pretty decent.Had to double check the fence for 90 each time , but other than that it was great. I added a mobile base to it , and probably man-handled it too much when I did that, because when I used the fancy Dial-O-Matic jig , I found my infeed table was off over 20 thousands between the fence , and the other end of the blade (6" span) , the length of the infeed wasn't much better. So after stripping the jointer down , watching a few videos on how to fix it , I rebuilt it , and now it's as co-planar as I can physically get it (less than .0015). Also stripped and clean the fence , and I can now reliably set it to 90 much , much easier. I also found out the fence has a bow to it , it's square to the bed the entire length , but it's definitely bowed. See pic with Green paint on it for an over exaggerated example. Seems pretty even , with the 'peak' being over the blades , as long as I keep pressure up against the fence near the middle , I should still be ok for edge jointing right? I've done a couple now and they seems pretty good. But bear in mind these are either rejointing clean edges from the sawmill , or from a track saw blade , not rough rough edges. Due to my uneven floor , my jointer on a mobile base (which makes the jointer overall not level , i've had to align my support rollers with LASERS. So far , the hardest part i didn't even think would be an issue , in this build is the leveling of machine beds and rollers
  10. procell40

    Roubo Build ! (First real project! Yikes)

    Went to Highland Hardwoods in NH (first real lumber yard I've been too) , and was completely unprepared. They had a sale on rough Ash , but I apparently showed up late , since it was already picked over pretty good. So I ended up with some 8/4 RGH , 6/4 S2S , and 4/4 S2S. (Only picked up enough for the top so far, Will need to go back for the leg material) Also picked up a nice piece of 8/4 Soft Maple for maybe the dog holes , or the front edge of the slab , because Soft Maple is harder than ASH (Nope! Ash is MUCH harder)............maybe i'll use it for the vise chop.... Tried to joint one edge clean , so I could rip it on the bandsaw..... that did not go well. 1) I have a 6" craftsman jointer with a 34" inch bed. 2) my basement floor isn't level , so trying to place roller stands for support at the right height was a nightmare....perfect height? great.......whoops , you kicked it 2" back , so it raised enough to be higher than the planer table...... 3) I can pick up these 8/4 8' x 10" boards up and down all day........ but trying to accurately hold them level , and against a 2" high fence ? My god the muscle spasms in my arms! (and the Laguna 14/12 table is TOO TINY. 8" from the blade to the edge of the table. Trying to fit a magnetic feather board on that is impossible) So after one crappy edge joint , and one crappier wavy rip cut , I was lucky to be able to borrow my brothers Makita Track saw. Rough rips all done! I then skip planed everything , the Dewalt 735 is a beast , and I love it. Plus the Byrd Shelical head just makes it even better. I'm hoping my boards are straight enough that I don't need to face joint anything , but we'll see. All my boards are 4.5" + wide (Some up to 5.75") , so with a light edge jointing , I should be good for height (I was lucky that most of my boards were S2S ) (first time posting , dunno how attaching files works yet. Top pic is all boards rough ripped and skip planed) , the other 2 are just the initial stacks of boards) Edit #2 , yes , I do have some boards that are close to 3/4" wide. Yes , my Roubo might look like it's made of plywood layers. It's special!
  11. Bought the Guild Project on 6/9/16 . Bought the Benchcrafted Kit on 6/16/16. Then......nothing.... I've been really hesitant to start this project , mainly because I don't have many projects under my belt. They are exactly as follows: spice rack (it's pretty sweet) 2 band saw boxes 2 cutting boards I then decided i needed a dust collection set up , so that took a couple of months. Then needed to upgrade my planer head to a shelix.... got that done... shop layout wasn't ideal , so i changed that around.....several times.. Went out and got wood , let that acclimate for a few weeks ..........and I've run out of excuses to put it off any longer! This will be a long build ! Let's see how it goes! Thanks for checking this thread out.
  12. Highland Hardwoods for me as well. I live in Central Mass , and it's a 90 minute drive , but you won't be disappointed.