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    Indoor and outdoor projects. Made a 71 Crestliner Aluminum boat look like an old woody - lots of mahogany. Now doing deck treatments, e.g. louvers for sun and wind, bent-wood arches, and am about to use Port Orford Cedar. Stuff like that. I still have all my fingers. Basic tools - table saw, jig saws, planer, router - stuff.

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  1. Update. Spoke with the folks at General Finishes and was talked out of their Exterior 450. I'd have to go to a dark stain underneath in order to get enough pigment to keep it from graying. His recommendation was Penofin or back to spar varnish. Thanks to all for guidance.
  2. My kingdom for a mini mill. I just did a dry run with a 5/16 four flute end mill. I set up a half axxed jig to hold a "part", plunged 9/16" and then hand fed. Piece of cake. Feed release to clear chips, feed, and release... I tried a scrap of redwood and PO Cedar. Hardwood might be an issue. Thanks to all.
  3. Flu bug delay - apologies. Sorry about not being clear. Yes, I want to mill slots, e.g. mortise and tenon. I was a machinist 40 years ago, and still have a ton of tools, e.g. end mills, ball end mills. I've used end mills chucked in a hand drill and it's worked ... but. The idea is to clamp, plunge and traverse. My router rig sucks. If I want to upgrade, a traveling table with a vise and acme thread crank would be ideal for some of the stuff I want to do.
  4. Does anyone have any experience using four or five inch cross sliding vises. Some projects just don't allow routers. Naturally, there's the ubiquitous Harbor Fright versions. Grizzly has something that looks a little different. I've got an upcoming project that want's a deeper plunge slot and mortising ain't working either. HS speed steel end mills are cheap, and side loading my drill press as a vertical mill isn't a problem as long as I stick to wood. Thoughts? Warnings? Laughter?
  5. Thanks to all. I'm going with Loctite PL Premium PL3. Thanks for all the input.
  6. Thanks gents. I was planning on some stainless finish nails angled. Brian - did you trowel the PL or just run a zig zag bead or ?? I appreciate the guidance.
  7. Thanks Brian - I was leaning that direction. Any special surface prep other than wipe the PT clean?
  8. Howdy! I"m putting 1/2 inch cedar skins on my pressure treated deck posts to un-ugly them. While the bond is non-structural, I would rather not experience a de-lam while I'm still vertical and ventilating. The folks at Franklin/Tite-Bond advised me not to use TB III, and to use a polyurethane adhesive. I was afraid of that. I'm not too keen on the prospect of runaway expansion seeping out of my edges, and expansion outward. I don't have that many clamps/quick-grips. Also - I'd rather not pepper the cedar with fasteners. So - does anyone have a recommendation for an alternative to polyurethane that will provide the long term adhesion with fair quick non-expansive tack? Thanks in advance!
  9. Thanks again gents. Tom - I've been in the wind power business for 35 years. Big fan of the Gougeon Brothers at West Systems. Those boys built some awesome wood/epoxy laminate rotor blades - structurally speaking. Turbine sizes and stresses outgrew the use of wood (save for balsa cores on some). Meade was one of the nicest people on the planet. The Mrs has decided. The Railings and frames will be a hybrid of corrugated steel and POC, all unfinished. This way I won't have to dangle over the edge of my deck to refinish anything. The deck is about 18 feet above ground on north side - 22 on the south. The benches and side tables and planters will be POC and finished - I'm still deciding which coating. Unknown: I cannot find a contact for General Finishes - other than a fax - which I've abandoned. If you have an email for them I'd appreciate it. Thanks again!
  10. Unknown: Two things - three. 1). Thanks! 2). POC does indeed weather - probably better than anything out there. Herein lies my quandary. To finish, or not. I have the Mrs weighing in and waffling just as much as I am on this issue. Even the neighbor chimed in for letting it weather. But I've also seen some finished work and it's crazy gorgeous. 3). I'm buying my POC from a local mill near Port Orford (you should smell this place), and the owner said to stay away from water based anything. I'll paraphrase his comment, "one local contractor used water based stain and final finish - after about six months it looked like a Jackson Pollock with eczema.." The oils in the POC repelled the stain and finish coat.. I assume the final finish was some kind of water based urethane which explains the peeling. If I were to go General 450 - how often would it need re-application.
  11. Thanks guys - I failed to mention that I'm allergic to epoxy as are 30% of the population. I'd considered it, but .. I am 40 miles south of Port Orford, OR and have access to the finest cedar available. POC is not really a cedar, but a cypress. I've done some work with spar varnish on redwood, redwood sapwood, and western red cedar. The western red is gorgeous but the prices just doubled - and then some - putting Port Orford into reach. I've used Ace Hardware Brand (I forgot who really makes it) to some degree of success on red cedar. But - the 24 hours to re-coat is hard in my environment. "Total Boat" brand appeals as they claim up to four coats per day. I'm anxious to get comments on brands and experiences.
  12. Howdy - newbie here. Has anyone used Spar Varnish on Port Orford Cedar? Also looking for stain recommendations. The project is vertical deck louvers for wind control. I will also be bending some laminates to add some soft geometry - probably as extensions of deck rails - that's phase II. For now it's the louvers and some basic benches. The environment is pretty harsh - coastal Oregon - lots of rain, fog/marine layer, intense sun, and hellacious winter storm winds. I'll be using STK Port Orford for structures and clear for bending.