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Everything posted by fcschoenthal

  1. That's an awful lot of wood in unknown condition from a first time poster. The hoarder and dreamer in me wishes that I could go in with you like you want. I would be willing to take 500-1000 bft from you on the way through DFW on the way to Houston.
  2. I have used a 3/4"x13"x6' piece of melamine as a table platform for years and it has almost eliminated any snipe without messing with the tables. I'm probably going to take them off soon to make it easier to tuck away. Check around before you pull the trigger for $650, I waited a couple of months before I found mine through Craigslist about 3 years ago. The guy was moving and couldn't take it with him. Got the 735X with stand for $400. He had only used it once.
  3. I think that I've subscribed (or read) just about every one at one point or another. Right now I have the FWW Unlimited, so I get the paper version included. The Popular Woodworking, Wood & a couple of others were great for my skill level at the time, but hardly read any of them now. The one that I probably miss the most is ShopNotes. They had a lot of detailed shop related projects that I still reference back issues often. Woodsmith has taken up a lot of that, but still isn't the same.
  4. Dennis, like to many things, it depends on what you want to do with it. I've recently started putting up a cleat system. (one of the reasons it's so messy). I put 2½" cleats on the wall spaced 6½" apart (bottom to bottom). I thought that it would give me lots of options, but it seems that I have ended up putting things on only a couple of the heights. I'm still working on it and have changed things 3 times this week alone. Only one main "rule" to follow. If you are putting something fairly heavy or unbalanced on a cleat, make sure that the holder is supported on either another cleat or use a spacer block so that it sits against the wall. This will help make sure that it doesn't pull up and out of the cleat. One good thing about a cleat system is that you can start with only a couple of "lines" and add more in between if your needs change.
  5. There have been several YouTube videos comparing sandpaper, but this one really breaks it down.
  6. Drew, that's a great spreadsheet. Where did you get it? I'd like to plug in my numbers and play with it a little bit. I have the HF DC and connect a 4" hose to a 4>2" adapter at some of the tools and it seems to work fine. Others I use a shop vac.
  7. Yes, the Olshun 8" is ~$120, while the SD208 is ~$90 (but discontinued). From what I can tell, the Olshun also has a lot more chippers (16), therefore more options, than the Freud with 5 total. There are a lot of old reviews and comparisons on the two. Like most things, everyone has their unique opinion, but these two rise to the top of every review. I have an old Delta contractor with a 1½ hp that does fine on hardwood as long as I take it slow and easy. I also use a sled for a lot of things, including dados, so I wanted the 8 over the 6 just in case. I've also used it for a bunch of bridal joints, so the extra height was good to have.
  8. I've had an Oshlun set for years and really like it. It's outside blades have 42 teeth instead of 12 and the inside chippers have 6 instead of 2 and are full body. It makes really smooth cuts and is a lot cheaper.
  9. Chestnut, don't know if you're aware, but the Rockler lift is a different size than normal. It's width is an inch shorter (8 1/4 x 11 3/4 vs 9 1/4 x 11 3/4) . I have a Rockler table and looked at both the Rockler Pro and Incra Master Lift side-by-side. I chose the Incra over the Rockler because of the lock. The fast raise option wasn't as appealing.
  10. First, welcome to the forum. You'll find a lot of help here. Next, what kind of tools are you looking for? That would help narrow down the scope.
  11. I'm trying to look closely at the infeed & outfeed tables to figure out how they adjust.
  12. I've never dealt with them, but watch YouTube videos from Woodworkers Source They have stores in Phoenix & Tempe as well as ship.
  13. Apparently, looking at his post history, one of his first posts included "If you like the video, you can help out by leaving a comment on YouTube - this will move the video up in YouTube searches".
  14. I've had the GO555 for a long time and it's a great general purpose saw, especially for the price point. I don't have the riser, but have heard that it causes problems when trying to tension the blade enough for resawing by flexing some. If you plan on doing a lot of resawing on taller pieces, I would look into the saws (like the General) that come already tall and made out of steel.
  15. Man, I am following this thread because I got the Mast-R-Lift a few months ago. I put one of my PC 890 motors in it and love it. I was thinking about upgrading to a 3 1/2 hp motor, but prices are ridiculous ($5-600, when you can find one) for the major brands. I'll probably just keep my PC in there until I hit the lotto or my inheritance comes in. Sure would have liked that Jessem PowRTek setup.
  16. I've had multiple sanders for a long time to make a job I hate go a little easier. I have my Ridgid OS on one side of a flip cart and a 1x30, 4x36 & 12" sanders on the other. My little 1x30 is used almost as much as my Ridgid OS. I use it for smaller pieces and also bought some stuff from Pro Sharpening that are great for touching up knives.
  17. I like his explanations and tips. I've struggled with spraying, so I've bookmarked his channel to go back through closer. Thanks for the link. - Chris
  18. I don't think Harbor Freight sold it for that much brand new.
  19. Years ago I bought a plastic rim that attaches to gallon cans at Home Depot that performs the same function.
  20. I bought the Performax 10/20 years ago (well before Jet bought them out). Like Chestnut, I don't use it very often, but it's one of those things that you'll figure out ways to use it. Works great for parallel surfaces that you can't or don't want to run through the planer. I also use it to do a good final sanding on things by putting a 220 belt in it. I have mine on one side of a flip-top table, so it's out of the way when I'm not using it.
  21. Are you using a blade stabilizer? That will reduce the cut height.
  22. Or you could just go with it. Since it's not large enough to be a river, call it a trickle table.
  23. I have the shinto and love it as well, but I want to see pics of your copters!
  24. I've built several of these and the frame is very easy. I just made a "shadow box" 3" deep with a groove toward the outside edge for the glass and a rabbet around the back edge to accept the removable back. Luckily, the client mounted the jerseys, so I didn't have to figure out that part.