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Everything posted by fcschoenthal

  1. Sorry to come to the party late, but where are you going to set the grinder when you lift it out of the bottom to use it? Somewhere I've seen a temporary platform that bolts onto the bedrails (similar to the tail stock) and extends past the end. Mostly used for extra space to lay your tools, but don't see why the grinder couldn't stay there temporarily while you're turning. Hope I'm explaining it well enough to get the idea across.
  2. Not that I would ever be able to do something like this, but I'm following as well. Love to see the process to create something like this and am definitely stealing some of the jig ideas.
  3. You could always consider it a gauge to find that angle again.
  4. I have an old Delta benchtop that I built extension wings for some time ago from an old ShopNotes mag. Each wing is 12" long, so the total length is 54" now. Handles anything that I have thrown at it with no problems.
  5. That is a great price. Too bad they're out of the 1/4" right now. Did you glue them in? With some of these inexpensive ones that I've looked at, the bit is hard to get in and out.
  6. My wife (a psychologist) likes to say "and that's why they make both vanilla and chocolate, so everyone can find something that they enjoy." Luckily, there are so many styles of furniture, everyone can find something that they enjoy making and having around.
  7. Many recommend, if possible, to have all of the machines that require dust collection to be somewhat grouped together, or at least along the same wall. That will allow for a single and more efficient system. It's also possible to put multiple spare dust collection outlets along the wall (either closed off or using gates) to allow for expansion or movement of tools, simply attaching a flexible hose to the new requirement. All that said, I would move the planned chop saw over to the right wall in place of the bench/cabinets and have the bandsaw on wheels to be able to roll over when needed. Depending on the type of projects that you make, you might consider having a small outfeed table on the saw and moving your bench closer to the back wall. Using the bench as an outfeed is great in theory, but I usually have too many things on it to be practical. It's always good to have an extra assembly area anyway.
  8. Maybe it's like a rock band that goes on it's 3rd final retirement tour.
  9. I've had the HF dust collector for many years and finally got tired of seeing fine dust on everything in the shop. I bought a cartridge filter from Wynn (Wynn filters for HF). They make several that are sized specifically for the unit. The one that I got is a MERV 15 and was about $200. I also added an Oneida Super Dust Deputy and between the two of them, it makes a world of difference.
  10. They need to bring the price down to what others are charging. They show the "regular" price as $760.
  11. I've had a 2 car "garage" for 30 years that's never had a car in it. I can't even fit my Goldwing in it right now until I do some rearranging. Might have something to do with my wood hoarding tendencies. I have a 4' high wall rack 12' long that's full, an 8' x 3' rolling cart that's full, and 6 tubs of cutoffs (at least 2' long) that are full. I probably need to build a few things.
  12. As G Ragatz said, just remove the adapter and you can use a blade with a 1" arbor. Diablo blades are actually made by Freud and are a great alternative at a better price point. I've been well pleased with all of the ones I own. I have 2 of them that I use on my miter saw, a 40 tpi for rough cutting and a 100 tpi that I use for fine crosscutting. You can get them from Walmart for around $100 for both. A Forrest 80 tpi is going to run you over $175 just for one. As Tom said, you might want a blade specifically for questionable wood (or pressure treated). I just went to Harbor Freight and got one of their Admiral 60 tpi blades for $17.99. If something happens to it, I'm not out much and can go get another. I found a review for "The Best Miter Saw Blades of 2019" that gives a breakdown of quite a few.
  13. Fantastic reference and since I love to look at different wood in general, it's now a bookmarked site that I'll probably waste many hours viewing. Thanks for all your hard work putting it together. Chris "It's never too late to have a happy childhood"
  14. It's issue #245 showing for April, 2019. Chris "It's never too late to have a happy childhood"
  15. Interesting idea and possible space saver as you could have the bench only as long as required. As wtnhighlander said, the extensions would be the weak point on the project and anything that is holding vises, I wouldn't want weak. Your idea about steel tubing might work if done right. I have a buffet that has folding wings with a piece that slides out from the top to hold the extension in place. You could have two sliders come out from each side and would probably support the sturdiness that you are looking for. Just make sure that at least half of the sliders are still under the top. Chris "It's never too late to have a happy childhood"
  16. Have your tool wall be a french cleat system with the tool holders able to sit on the bench by themselves. You could have only the tools you are currently using on the bench and the rest on the wall. Chris "It's never too late to have a happy childhood"
  17. A couple of things that you might try. First is cutting the pieces at more than a 45° angle. This will allow more contact surface. Also try to use mating cleat pieces cut from the same board. This will ensure that you have the best match in case there is a wave. Chris "It's never too late to have a happy childhood"
  18. I have two of the PC 895 sets. One thing I love about the fixed base in a router table is the micro adjust through the table function. While both have variable speeds, the PC is also soft start. The PC also has dust collection on the plunge base. Chris "It's never too late to have a happy childhood"
  19. Those look like some great beams. Look fairly straight and no pith that I can see. By the looks of the faces, you're going to have to mill them some, so I would go with your original plan. Rip a 4/4+ strip off the width and mill down to 3½ x 4 boards for your 4" thick top. Use some of the strips for the dog hole and front laminate strips. You even have some good sized stock for the endcap. What are your plans for the legs? Most would have to laminate 8/4, but your beams are pretty close to the final dimensions. Chris "It's never too late to have a happy childhood"
  20. fcschoenthal

    Shop Tour

    You've got so much more room there and so many clamps, a clamp rack really makes sense. On the other hand, another smaller mobile unit like your sled case could store clamps around the outside, yet still have an assembly top when needed. I'm sure that whatever you decide, it will work out great for you and I'll continue to be extremely jealous. (Just make sure that it has some walnut trim) Chris "It's never too late to have a happy childhood"
  21. In Chrome, you can right click and choose translate to English. It says Amazing article! "It's never too late to have a happy childhood" Chris
  22. Usually, the longer you can go with the biggest pipe will result in the best result.
  23. Here is a link to a Stanley Bench Plane site that will help with information on your plane, but it sounds like you've already done some research to determine that it is a type 7. As for selling it, I've always found that it's only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it. Some want it for the collectible value, no matter what shape and others would rather have it cleaned up.
  24. Go for what the design calls for. Just cut the mortises first and carefully make sure that the edges are square. You can always sneak up on the cuts to each tenon to match.
  25. This is on wheels and gets moved around, just about 2 1/2 times the size.