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About OakStBeachBum

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Hobby woodworker focused mostly on furniture making.

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  1. Yes exactly. I store it in a box that also has a homemade angle stops. Open the box, put the blade in the guide, size it to the correct angle based on the stops, and hone away. Pretty fast and easy.
  2. I have had this same issue. I ended up switching to a side clamping eclipse style guide and the problem went away. I still use the MKII for odd sized blades but it is no longer the first thing I reach for.
  3. CPES is water thin but I don't know how effective it would be as an adhesive.
  4. Lie Nielsen is now selling something called "Peacock Oil". It comes in three different colors and claims to be "A unique blend of the world’s finest traditional oils, resins and waxes that together produce a breathable, water-repellent, figure enhancing and grain strengthening finish." Has anyone tried this stuff out? Thoughts? What category of finish would you put this in? Can another finish (poly?) be used as a topcoat over this stuff? Thanks for the help!
  5. Sounds like the WB poly is a very viable option. What would you guys think about Osmo Effect Raw? It says Maple is potentially problematic but might be an option. https://www.osmopolyx.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil-effect-natural-raw
  6. Thanks - that is a very helpful response. Do you have any experience with how the WB poly stands up to cold drinks and hot plates? Am I going to need to be chasing people with coasters all the time?
  7. Hey guys - sorry in advance if this question has come up before but after 2-3 days of searches I decided to just ask away. I'm making a dining table out of hard maple and I am trying decide on how I would like to finish it. Goals: It needs to preserve the light color of the maple and not yellow over time. The room has a bright aesthetic and needs a light color. My better half initially suggesting painting it white (*gasp*) so I chose maple specifically for its light color to avoid that cruel fate. I know the maple itself will darken over time naturally but by then it will have too much sentimental value to paint over! It will get a lot of natural light. I live in a very new apartment building so the windows likely have some sort of UV protection but to be on the safe side I would like a finish that provides an additional suit of UV armor. It needs to be usable as a primary eating/living service. I don't want to have to remind people to use coasters. It needs to be able to take a punch. What I have considered: General Finishes High Performance water based topcoat. Checks the box on finishing clear without yellowing. Claims to have a "UV stabilizer" (whatever that means). My main fear is that it is less bullet-proof particularly around liquid/heat/alcohol. Some sort of self-leveling epoxy (like System 3 Mirror Coat or something similar). Seems like this surface would be the most indestructible but I'm not crazy about the idea of a high gloss finish and based on my research it appears that the epoxies that come with UV protection are the ones that are less clear and more yellow-ish. I'm also concerned about not having a very good setup for actually executing this finish. Some sort of varnish specifically formulated for a table top application. I looked at Belhen's Rock Hard but it seems like it causes a yellowing effect. Lacquer? Seems like it would achieve the goal of being clear but unsure about its UV or moisture/heat resistance qualities. Something else? Anything else I should keep in mind for finishing maple? Thanks!
  8. Yes - you said it better than I did. The front is level with the top but the top sits on top of the back unattached other than elongated loose tenons on the sides. Here is a better view of the back.
  9. It is all hardwood other than the drawer boxes and some of the internal supports (combination of ply and poplar). The top is attached to the sides exclusively using loose tenons. The mortises are tight around the tenons at the very front of the desk but increasingly loose (as much as 3/8" of horizontal space) toward the back of the desk. No glue was used around anything but the front tenons. My thought was to direct the wood movement to the back of the desk which will probably be up against a wall anyway. I appreciate the feedback.
  10. Thanks for the advice guys - it really helped. I ended up going with the following: Coat of BLO (taking care to avoid the holly inlay) 3 coats of amber shellac (1lb cut) 4 coats of Arm-R-Seal (first 2 gloss, last 2 satin) Light coat of paste wax I'm very happy with how it turned out. Behold!
  11. Interesting. Any reason why I couldn't go ahead and cut the inlay channel, pre-finish, oil with BLO (avoiding the channel but not getting too bent out of shape if some gets inside), and then glue in the inlay? Would the oil interfere with the glue bond? What if I used something other than yellow glue?
  12. Great point that I hadn't considered. Would it be possible to use painter's tape to keep the BLO off of the holly? There seems to be a definite preference for having some sort of oil under the topcoat. Thanks for the feedback guys - this is really helpful!
  13. Hey WTF crowd - was hoping to get some input on a finishing question related to a desk that I am making for my girlfriend (sketchup design provided for reference). The primary wood is walnut with some holly trim accents. Here's what I know: She's going to use the desk in her office where she sees clients so she is somewhat particular about how it looks (prefers a more satin look) She likes the appearance of one of my previous projects where i used boiled linseed oil under 5-6 coats of amber shellac and buffed with steel wool/paste wax The linseed/shellac/wax finish seems like it wouldn't offer very much protection for a piece of furniture that's going to see frequent (albeit delicate) use. Here are the things I'm considering: Option 1: go with what worked before that she seems to like - office usage doesn't demand any more protection that the shellac will provide. Option 2: boiled linseed oil, 5-6 coats of de-waxed amber shellac, 2 coats of General Finishes satin polyurethane Option 3: boiled linseed oil, 5-6 coats of de-waxed amber shellac, 2 coats of water based satin polyurethane Option 4: boiled linseed oil, 2 coats of de-waxed amber shellac, 4 coats of General Finshes satin polyurethane Option 5: boiled linseed oil, 2-4 coats of de-waxed amber shellac, 2-4 coats of spray lacquer Option 6: something else altogether I want to make sure this is something she is happy with so she'll ask me to help out on future projects - pressure is on! Thanks in advance!