OakStBeachBum

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Hobby woodworker focused mostly on furniture making.

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  1. OakStBeachBum

    Hard Maple Table Top (clear, sun-proof, tough)

    Sounds like the WB poly is a very viable option. What would you guys think about Osmo Effect Raw? It says Maple is potentially problematic but might be an option. https://www.osmopolyx.com/products/osmo-polyx-oil-effect-natural-raw
  2. OakStBeachBum

    Hard Maple Table Top (clear, sun-proof, tough)

    Thanks - that is a very helpful response. Do you have any experience with how the WB poly stands up to cold drinks and hot plates? Am I going to need to be chasing people with coasters all the time?
  3. Hey guys - sorry in advance if this question has come up before but after 2-3 days of searches I decided to just ask away. I'm making a dining table out of hard maple and I am trying decide on how I would like to finish it. Goals: It needs to preserve the light color of the maple and not yellow over time. The room has a bright aesthetic and needs a light color. My better half initially suggesting painting it white (*gasp*) so I chose maple specifically for its light color to avoid that cruel fate. I know the maple itself will darken over time naturally but by then it will have too much sentimental value to paint over! It will get a lot of natural light. I live in a very new apartment building so the windows likely have some sort of UV protection but to be on the safe side I would like a finish that provides an additional suit of UV armor. It needs to be usable as a primary eating/living service. I don't want to have to remind people to use coasters. It needs to be able to take a punch. What I have considered: General Finishes High Performance water based topcoat. Checks the box on finishing clear without yellowing. Claims to have a "UV stabilizer" (whatever that means). My main fear is that it is less bullet-proof particularly around liquid/heat/alcohol. Some sort of self-leveling epoxy (like System 3 Mirror Coat or something similar). Seems like this surface would be the most indestructible but I'm not crazy about the idea of a high gloss finish and based on my research it appears that the epoxies that come with UV protection are the ones that are less clear and more yellow-ish. I'm also concerned about not having a very good setup for actually executing this finish. Some sort of varnish specifically formulated for a table top application. I looked at Belhen's Rock Hard but it seems like it causes a yellowing effect. Lacquer? Seems like it would achieve the goal of being clear but unsure about its UV or moisture/heat resistance qualities. Something else? Anything else I should keep in mind for finishing maple? Thanks!
  4. OakStBeachBum

    Walnut desk finishing question

    Yes - you said it better than I did. The front is level with the top but the top sits on top of the back unattached other than elongated loose tenons on the sides. Here is a better view of the back.
  5. OakStBeachBum

    Walnut desk finishing question

    It is all hardwood other than the drawer boxes and some of the internal supports (combination of ply and poplar). The top is attached to the sides exclusively using loose tenons. The mortises are tight around the tenons at the very front of the desk but increasingly loose (as much as 3/8" of horizontal space) toward the back of the desk. No glue was used around anything but the front tenons. My thought was to direct the wood movement to the back of the desk which will probably be up against a wall anyway. I appreciate the feedback.
  6. OakStBeachBum

    Walnut desk finishing question

    Thanks for the advice guys - it really helped. I ended up going with the following: Coat of BLO (taking care to avoid the holly inlay) 3 coats of amber shellac (1lb cut) 4 coats of Arm-R-Seal (first 2 gloss, last 2 satin) Light coat of paste wax I'm very happy with how it turned out. Behold!
  7. OakStBeachBum

    Walnut desk finishing question

    Interesting. Any reason why I couldn't go ahead and cut the inlay channel, pre-finish, oil with BLO (avoiding the channel but not getting too bent out of shape if some gets inside), and then glue in the inlay? Would the oil interfere with the glue bond? What if I used something other than yellow glue?
  8. OakStBeachBum

    Walnut desk finishing question

    Great point that I hadn't considered. Would it be possible to use painter's tape to keep the BLO off of the holly? There seems to be a definite preference for having some sort of oil under the topcoat. Thanks for the feedback guys - this is really helpful!
  9. OakStBeachBum

    Walnut desk finishing question

    Hey WTF crowd - was hoping to get some input on a finishing question related to a desk that I am making for my girlfriend (sketchup design provided for reference). The primary wood is walnut with some holly trim accents. Here's what I know: She's going to use the desk in her office where she sees clients so she is somewhat particular about how it looks (prefers a more satin look) She likes the appearance of one of my previous projects where i used boiled linseed oil under 5-6 coats of amber shellac and buffed with steel wool/paste wax The linseed/shellac/wax finish seems like it wouldn't offer very much protection for a piece of furniture that's going to see frequent (albeit delicate) use. Here are the things I'm considering: Option 1: go with what worked before that she seems to like - office usage doesn't demand any more protection that the shellac will provide. Option 2: boiled linseed oil, 5-6 coats of de-waxed amber shellac, 2 coats of General Finishes satin polyurethane Option 3: boiled linseed oil, 5-6 coats of de-waxed amber shellac, 2 coats of water based satin polyurethane Option 4: boiled linseed oil, 2 coats of de-waxed amber shellac, 4 coats of General Finshes satin polyurethane Option 5: boiled linseed oil, 2-4 coats of de-waxed amber shellac, 2-4 coats of spray lacquer Option 6: something else altogether I want to make sure this is something she is happy with so she'll ask me to help out on future projects - pressure is on! Thanks in advance!