Leaseman

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    Making furniture. Learning Helping others when I can.

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  1. Pkinneb, point made. That looks very impressive (and heavy). Oak, M/T? What is the length, Width?
  2. Richard, I appreciate what your doing but nothing I've said would suggest I'm trying to cut corners or that I'm rushing through this. My simple question was would conventional joinery be strong enough in 3/4 red oak stock when the finished piece would be so heavy. I've built a large dresser before but that was 1 1/2" douglas fir using dowels, holds together fine but requires disassembly to move it so the joints are really tested any way (see below). I'm just now graduating to hardwood, hence my ignorance. Again, I really do appreciate the input from all you fine folks. By the way, yes, I was a little embarrassed to mention lag screws (on a woodworking forum, are you nuts!). Just looking for ideas
  3. Richard, what do you mean by "sticker them"?
  4. I consider myself a novice woodworker. I don't have a domino so I would be doing M/T by hand and because of this projects size, and cost of wood, I don't want to learn on this project. I was actually thinking of using lag screws with a washer. Not very "woodworker" but I thought it would be strong. I could them recess them down and cover them with dowel plugs. I use a dowel jig when using dowels and, yes lining them up on the flat side of the board can be a challenge. I'm just at the stage of four glued up panels, the top and bottom of the dresser. The two remaining panels will make up the two sides and two "dividers" holding a total of nine drawers. Dimensions will be 70" x 18"(deep) x 36" tall with legs about six inches. I've included a picture of the panels as they lay in my sons room; keeping them out of the desert heat until I get back to work on it.
  5. Thanks Richard, I see your point and feel more comfortable with this. Do you think I'm okay using 1/4" dowels (since its 3/4" boards) or should I use 3/8" dowels. Will the dowels be as good as M /T?
  6. My concern with M/T or dowels is that this being 3/4" stock the tenons or dowels will only being in 1/2" - 5/8" into the top and bottom panels. Still being a novice I certainly value y'alls opinion over mine, but you can see why I would question this. I'm afraid that when moving the piece at some point in the future someone will go to lift it from the top panel and the thing will pop off or otherwise get compromised. The thing will way a couple of hundred pounds.
  7. Thanks Mark, obviously I don't know how to use "quote". Thanks for the info Richard and Gee-Dub. I use dowels over M/T. I don't think either one would be strong enough to hold something together of this weight. I might just use, dare I say, screws and plugs. Or screws and epoxy to fill the gap. This can look pretty cool but it takes away from that clean look as seen in Richard's dresser above.
  8. Hello, I'm planning on making a larger dresser, 70" long, 18" deep, and 35" high. When taking the legs out of the conversation I'm basically making a box, 30" high. I'm using red oak that has been milled down to about 3/4" thick. I'm not confident using my normal dowel joinery for the top, bottom, and sides; thing thing will weigh a ton. Dados and rabbets wouldn't seem strong enough so I'm sort of at a loss on what to do. I've not made anything this big before using red oak. Any ideas?
  9. Witnhighlander, excellent thought. You may have saved me a trip to the emergency room.
  10. The end to end glue up would be less about strength/structural and more about having these pieces stuck together while minimizing gaps. So I wouldn't have to clamp down hard, just enough to pull them together. If you look at my picture closely theres lots of gaps, etc. Assuming these pieces would remain stuck together I could edge off one side with a track saw and then run through the table saw. I now have the long "boards" to do the glue up. What do you see wrong with this strategy? Would this be structurally sound? I'm using 1 3/8 - 1 1/2 thick boards.
  11. I wondered if gluing the boards end to end using the "sizing" method. Then after squaring off the edges gluing these rows up panel style. Any opinions?
  12. Looking for some ideas on how to construct a patch work design table top. I realize this might be called by a different name but you can get an idea from the picture. Basically it consist of different boards put together in a pattern to create this "patch work" look. The one below I simply cut out some boards and glued them to a substrate. This time I don't want to use a substrate. I want the boards themselves to be the table top. I'm probably making this more complicated then it needs to be. Another way to explain it is that I want to glue up a table top but instead of using a few straight boards all cut the same length, I want to use multiple short boards. As you can see below I have large gaps, etc. So how would I glue something like this up where the boards were tight both length wise and between each board? I don't want to use a substrate. I want these boards to be structurally sound on their own. Any ideas?
  13. I'm not smart enough to know if it's a carbide or HSS bit. Regarding templates, this is a one off piece that I won't need to duplicate. In fact I'm repurposing a piece that was originally intended for something else (I made a dough board for my wife made out of RED OAK), too porous. So I'm turning it into a serving platter (will just hold cheese, etc) and I'm cutting three curvy lines to pour epoxy into.
  14. Lots of great input. I reduced the depth and moved the router along at a quicker pace and it seemed to fix the problem. I would like to have a deeper "channel" but it'll suffice. I don't know how I would make a second pass at a lower depth since this is free hand but it will work. Thanks for all your help!