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About Leaseman

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    Making furniture. Learning Helping others when I can.

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  1. I'm not smart enough to know if it's a carbide or HSS bit. Regarding templates, this is a one off piece that I won't need to duplicate. In fact I'm repurposing a piece that was originally intended for something else (I made a dough board for my wife made out of RED OAK), too porous. So I'm turning it into a serving platter (will just hold cheese, etc) and I'm cutting three curvy lines to pour epoxy into.
  2. Lots of great input. I reduced the depth and moved the router along at a quicker pace and it seemed to fix the problem. I would like to have a deeper "channel" but it'll suffice. I don't know how I would make a second pass at a lower depth since this is free hand but it will work. Thanks for all your help!
  3. It's not around the edge but through the middle. The bit doesn't look dirty but I know that doesn't mean much. I've only used the bit twice before. I'm freehanding this but I am going very slow, following a line. I do have a router table but this is a "curvey" "line".
  4. I need to cut a 1/2" channel into some red oak for a cutting board I'm making my wife. I'm getting an excessive amount of smoke for some reason. I've had it at the slowest speed to the highest speed and I'm getting the same problem. Burning the wood big time. The channel is about 3/16" deep. Any suggestions?
  5. Most of you guys and gals probably know the answer to this question but I've never seen it anywhere. Can you use epoxy resin in the same way you might use polyurethane as a clear top coat after applying a wood stain? Poly is a common way to protect after staining a project but it would seem applying epoxy with a brush would offer more protection when building things with soft wood like pine, Douglas Fir, etc. As I mentioned I've never seen this suggested before. Is there any reason this would be a bad idea?
  6. How do I find your earlier post regarding this topic?
  7. Even though I'm a novice woodworker I feel I should know this already. But is it better to run your boards through the jointer and planer first then cut to final dimension or do you cut to final dimension first then square off with the jointer and planer?
  8. Running with Isaac's idea (and input from others). I think I have figured this out. Basically I drilled doweling holes in the stretchers first, then cut the angle to accommodate the leg. Here were the steps using scrap wood to test. Here is the test stretcher. The angled lined at the left shows where the board will be cut to fit against the leg. The line on the right shows how deep the dowel hole will go. Notice how much would I'm cutting on the left. That will be my "doweling jig" for the leg. Below shows the stretcher after the cut. Again notice the "waste" piece on the left that will become the jig. Holes have been drilled in the stretcher. I've placed the top dowel in and laid it over the "leg" to illustrate the angle. I then clamp the jig made from the waste cut above to drill my angled holes the the leg. Final assembly. Yes it's crooked but this test shows that it works. Pretty cool.
  9. Good idea. How do you then, drill the corresponding holes at the proper angle on the legs?
  10. Sorry Byrdie but I can't visualize what your talking about. Are you suggesting to create an angled tenon that would go into the leg at a straight perpendicular direction? Perhaps I should change my approach and ask what is the best way to attach a stretcher to a leg at an angle in the same design I show above.
  11. It sounds like I have to practice my chiseling skills. I don't have a lot of experience with this type of work. I was hoping there was a way I could do this with my router in the same way I would cut the notch without the angle. I believe this comes down to designing a jig to hold the piece at the correct angle. The ones I test just weren't stable enough.
  12. Correct it's where the stretchers meet the legs, how to cut those notches
  13. I'm want to build a coffee table whose legs will be joined together with two boards that will cris cross (to form an "X"). I plan on creating a notch at the top of each leg that will receive the boards. Illustrated in the second picture. For the life of me and can't figure out how to create these notches. So at the risk of embarrassment I'm coming to you fine folks for input. The legs will be about 3" square. the cross members will be about 1 1/2" wide. Below I have drawn out how I envision doing this. Figure "A" is from the top of the leg looking down. You can see the notch will be about 1 1/2" wide, roughly 2 1/2" deep into the leg. The notch will not go all the way through the leg. Figure "B" shows this from the side of the leg. I forgot to draw it but the notch will do about 3" deep downward into the leg. I have played around with using my router table, doable perhaps but requires several pass's due to the thickness of the cris cross boards.Another problem I was having using the router table was getting the leg stable. I had to shim up one side to get the angle, I also created stop "blocks" to attempt to hold it into place but it still squirmed about a bit. Anyone have a better idea on how to do this? It seems like such a basic woodworking issue but I just can't figure it out.