Leaseman

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About Leaseman

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Making furniture. Learning Helping others when I can.

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  1. Has anyone figured out a way to attach the Festool router to a Kreg benchtop router table using the "pins" that come with the Festool router? It's more convenient then screwing the plate to the table which is important when you only have one router like I do. There used to be a video on Youtube about this but I can't find it. Any suggestions?
  2. Leaseman

    Avoiding Tear Out While Routing Curves

    I was going to use a 1/2" round over bit. After hearing your advice what I might do is start with a 1/4" bit first and then do a second pass with the 1/2". Sort of a controlled "small bits" approach. Does this sound like a good idea?
  3. I'm rounding the edges on some table legs and have potential tear out problem. This is my first time making curved pieces and I'm coming to realize it presents some tear out issues that I've not faced before. Routing from "A" down (going down the curve) shouldn't be a problem assuming the direction of the router bit is going it's proper direction. But what about going "up" the curve going toward "B"? As you can see the grain direction, this could cause major tear out. Any recommendations on how to approach this.
  4. Leaseman

    Strongly Considering Domino Purchase

    Now that I think about it, your absolutely right. The rounded ends of a tenon won't add any strength anyway making the sizing of tenons easier. Why didn't I think of that.
  5. I like to work with various types of pine when building coffee tables, dressers, and other furniture. I just like the look of it. One of the problems with pine, as you know, is that because of it's soft nature it scratches and dents easily. I've never used Minwax wood hardener but does any one know if it would work well to harden pine to make it "tougher"? The product description suggest it's use on rotted wood, etc not really a finisher of wood. Anyone have any experience with this or have any other ideas to toughen up pine to make it more resistant?
  6. Leaseman

    Mission end tables

    Looks great. M & T joints require some patience as I've recently learned
  7. Leaseman

    Making Repetitive Mortises

    I like using my router with the dual edge guides myself but how do you incorporate stop blocks in this set up? This would be even more challenging when making the mortises at the end of a board. How would you employ stop blocks in this scenario?
  8. Leaseman

    Making Repetitive Mortises

    So is that to say that its common in woodworking to not have tight ends as you illustrate? In other words woodworkers don't worry about the length just as long as the sides are tight? I'm trying to follow proper protocol as best as I can and want to cut has few corners as I can when learning new techniques (no pun intended!)
  9. As I continue to practice making mortise and tenons I'm finding the biggest problem I'm having is making mortises that are identical. We have ways of cutting boards to identical lengths using stop blocks. We rip stock to identical widths using a rip fence, dowels joints are easy. Just use the same drill bit every time. But when making mortises we have to eyeball our measurements and cuts resulting in some variance albeit small. And when making loose tenons as I like to do this causes a problem because you are left with some tenons being a little to loose and some being too tight requiring me to make adjustments on the individual tenons. It would be cool to make a bunch of tenons all the same size and they all fit perfectly in the all the mortises. Are there methods I don't know about to make identical mortises? I use a jig that holds the router to the side of the board just fine but it's the cutting of the mortises to exacting dimensions repetitively that I find the struggle.
  10. Leaseman

    Coffee Table

    I love the look of the pass through dowels in the bread board ends. Getting those to fit just right has been a challenge for me.
  11. Leaseman

    Cutting Mortises On Small Boards

    Not sure I understand your question. I'm trying to make a mortise at the end of a small board. The "wings" idea above seems to be the way to do it unless you have special equipment.
  12. First I would l like to show you folks the mortising jig I made for my Festool 1400 router and then on to my question. As you can see this is cutting edge engineering at its finest surpassed only by it's elegant design. This is sure to make the cover of Fine Woodworking, etc. Here you go: I know, it's some scrap wood thrown together but, hey, it actually works. Here's my question. I'm new at making mortise and tenons. With this jig I can make mortises on larger boards but can figure out how to make a mortise at the end of a smaller board. I should point out that in this case I'm making floating tenons so mortises on both sides of the joint. I do not have a router table. This jig or anything I can come up with wont hold the board steady to cut the mortise. This is an apron on a copy table roughly 1 1/8" by 1 3/4" Here's my attempt; not an acceptable outcome. How do you folks do this?
  13. Leaseman

    I Can Not Get A Flat Glue Up Ever

    No hand planning just using the jointer and planner. I have done the second of three panels for this project and it has turned out a little better. I think I was clamping it to hard. Also I'm going to look into getting the Rockler panel clamps mentioned by Applejackson. I'm finding that most of my "unflatness" tends to be away from the edges of the boards where I have the panel clamped to the clamps. The Rockler clamps would help with this. See below for a picture how I clamped this up.
  14. Leaseman

    I Can Not Get A Flat Glue Up Ever

    I think the thing I'm most guilty of is putting to much pressure on the clamps. I tend to really tighten them. Based on what your guys are saying I'm doing too much. Lots of other great insights here. I have two more panels to glue up for this project. I'm going to use some of the ideas here and post the results.
  15. Maybe you folks can give me some advice but no matter what I do I can never seem to get a completely flat glue up when doing a panel. I always have gaps, etc. Here is my process: 1) Run one face and one edge through my jointer 2) With the jointed edge against the fence of my table saw (and jointed face down) I square up the other edge 3) I then run the opposite face through the planer. The individual boards come out flat but my problem is when I do my glue up. Here's my process for glue up: 1) After gluing up the edge of the boards (using dowels to help line them up) I put them between three or four pipe clamps 2) With the two outermost clamps at the very ends of the boards I clamp the boards to the pipe clamps at the joints to keep them flat 3) I then take two or three clamps and clamp from the top I'm doing something wrong here because my glued up boards (in this case pine) is not completely flat. What is y'all's experience"