AndrewRaastad

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About AndrewRaastad

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday June 1

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Casa Grande, AZ
  • Woodworking Interests
    I love wood and all that can be made with and from it. Have basic skills, but really want to learn how to make long lasting, quality pieces instead of laying down cash for some store-bought assembly line stuff that maybe will fit my needs.

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    http://twitter.com/AndrewR73
  1. Mike, Just downloaded and installed the application. Looks nice and a great tool to have available when at the store (particularly the board foot calc), but I have noticed a small bug, at least on my phone (Android 2). On any of the screens where there is a pull down selector (ie: Thickness or Species on BF calc) the options can't be seen. The options text is the same color as the background of the list. It appears all the selections are there and I can tap on a selection to pick it, but I don't know what the options are *until* I tap one and the popup goes away. I hope this is a good enough explanation of the issue. -- Andrew
  2. This past weekend I finished a project I have been working on now (weekends and whenever I could get time during the week) for the past 3 months. It is a Light Box for my Masonic Lodge, Pinal Lodge #30, in Casa Grande, AZ. We have a light in our Lodge, that was either made or purchased quite some time ago, that for quite a while now we all have felt is an eyesore though no one had any ideas what to do about it. Well, a few months back I came into possession of a couple opaque panels with Masonic symbols on them, which I thought would make a great light box to replace this current light in the East. I discussed it a bit with another Brother in the Lodge who has some woodworking experience to see what we could come up with. Our first idea was to build a small shallow box with the two panels forming the front and back, with just enough room in between for a light, and suspend the box so it could be rotated to display one face or the other. This just felt too small and not robust enough for its placement. Our Lodge was officially formed in 1922, and in that time there have been many fine pieces of furniture donated to the Lodge by its members. I wanted whatever piece I came up with to be on par with these previous works, so I set out to design something befitting its place in the Lodge. The first issue I had was that I only had two panels, yet one had to be on the center line (if you will) of the room. So, I thought if I could find or make one more panel this would solve that problem, and was fortunate enough to find out one of the wives was very skilled in arts & crafts and was able to hand paint a third panel for me (this became the left-most panel). Now, with three panels, I turned to Google's SketchUp to begin drafting a few designs (screenshots attached). My wife and Father-in-Law made the comment I should try matching the design(s) of the other pieces in the room. And with that, the design pretty much snapped in place. I modeled it after the main podium, but put my own spin on it. Without further adieu, here are some photos... WoodtalkOnline Photo Album (8 photos): http://woodtalkonline.com/gallery/album/2319/407-masonic-light-box/ Facebook photo album (36 photos): http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2081660&id=1116848475&l=d0cb6df955 The box is built from: Pine S4S 1x2's - front face vertical and horizontal members, internal vertical supports Pine S4S 1x3's - sides and bottom Pine S4S 1x4 - top 1/4" wood paneling - sunken panels in front face As I don't have a planer or drum sander, and to save some time, I went with the pre-finished S4S pine available at Home Depot. The 1x2's were all cut to length and I used the table saw to cut the tongue and grooves into them. I also found some nice pre-finished wood paneling there at HD which had some nice grain patterns. I cut the panels down to the 2.5"x3" squares to make the sunken panels in the face. I then cut the 1x3's to length, and routed a rabbet along the front edge which would cradle the front face. I joined the sides and bottom with a reinforced rabbet. In the bottom piece I used my radial arm saw to cut six dadoes for the internal vertical supports which would serve to support the front face but also separate the box into three compartments. The top was cut to length a bit longer than the box was wide to give some overhang on each side, and I used a couple pieces of pre-made "rope-like" trim to hide the seam between the box and top piece. The back is a single piece of paneling that was flat white on one side, which helps to reflect the lights. For the lighting I used the same mini-fluorescent lights you can put inside computers to make them glow different colors. I used four white bulbs per panel to make sure they were nicely lit up. To power them I found a couple old busted computer power supplies which I took out the internal power plugs because I needed those white plastic plugs as that's what the lights used to connect inside the computer. I then got three wall plugs like you use to recharge a phone, that convert the wall 120V A/C to the 12V DC needed by the lights. I clipped the ends off the wires of the power supplies and spliced them onto the ends of the plugs I took out of the computer power supplies. Lights Lights: 12" Cold Cathode Case Lights - 2 Piece (White) Power Adapters: Hosa ACD477 AC 100-240V Multi Voltage DC Adaptor For the finish I went with Minwax's Red Oak stain/finish. I liked the color of it, and thought it gave the piece a more distinguished look. Because the finished box was going to have a fair amount of nooks and crannies, I decided to apply the stain as I assembled the box. It turned out a little bit darker than I had planned, but I think it still looks good. [*]Stain/Finish: Minwax® Oil-Based Red Oak Wood Finish Interior Stain I decided on a French cleat style mounting for the light box as the thing was about 25lbs I didn't want to take any chances it could fall off the wall. Mounted it on the brick wall of the Lodge with mounting bolts, and there it stayed. The French cleat will let me take it down if need be, but otherwise it's on there good an solid. All in all, I feel pretty good about my first major project, and the first one I did for someone other than me. Looking back I think I would do a few things differently... maybe instead of just tongue and groove I might try raised paneling (like cabinet doors) to make the little squares look nicer, maybe make the individual compartments so that they could be opened up like doors for ease of access, etc. But you live and learn, and look forward to the next project, right? I give thanks to all those who helped me out by answering my questions and offering suggestions and advice. I am now interested in hearing feedback on what you think of the finished piece, and maybe what you would do differently if you were the one making it. Might be able to come up with a couple more pieces I'd like to make for the Lodge. -- Andrew
  3. Well, three months later, I have finally finished the project. I thank everyone here who offered help and suggestions, it's always great to get the benefit of other's experience when facing a problem, issue, or hurdle. Please take a gander at your convenience: http://woodtalkonline.com/gallery/album/2319/407-masonic-light-box/ Thanks again! -- Andrew
  4. AndrewRaastad

    Masonic Light Box

    A light box I created for my Masonic Lodge. I wanted to do something to put into practice many of the skills I have learned, and the help I have received, via many of the great people on this site and forums. And as my Lodge is approaching its 100th anniversary, I wanted it to be something special.
  5. Thanks for all the feedback so far, but I have decided to alter my design a bit, make it a little simpler the first time out as it were. I have decided to do away with the inner ring piece, just sticking with the outer ring, and somewhat hollow out the outer ring (the weight comment kept pinging around my brain). I have attached new screen captures of my revised idea and once again would like your thoughts. In the first image you get an idea of what I am attempting. The glass and back material would be full circle pieces but for ease of viewing the images have them quartered. The wood around the outside will be made one quarter piece at a time, which I figure to hold together with glue and a couple dowels punched into the ends roughly 1/2" deep. This should give plenty of strength and help hold it solid once glued together. Then a little sanding would match everything up flush. On the inside of the wooden ring the front glass would be held in place by the "lip" in the front. I figured to use a long strip of thin material that would be bent in a circle acting like a snap-ring to hold the glass from behind. And then the backing material would fit in behind the thin banding material. I would use those bend over tabs (like on picture frames) tacked into the backside of the wooden ring to hold the backing material in place. These would allow the back to be removed if needed. I took the comment to heart about weight and decided to hollow out the wooden ring and go with the snap-ring idea instead of thin dadoes... just seemed to meet the need and be easier to make. The second image shows how the four pieces together would work. In the third you can see the dimensions I am going for. Also, after some research and playing I was able to get SketchUp to do the round-overs on the two front corners and the outer back corner. The outside front and back corner round-overs can be done easily enough but I am having a little trouble figuring out the steps to do the front inner corner round-over and hollowing out of the ring. What would be the best/easiest way to accomplish both the round-over and hollowing out? Should one be done before the other, or does the order matter? And the last image is the dimensions for the template from which the quarter segment would come from. I would need to make a block (single piece or several glued together) roughly 4"x13" two inches thick. Again, appreciate your feedback! -- Andrew
  6. Doing some thinking on this, and then busting out SketchUp, I think I have a clearer idea of how to attack this thing. Attached are three screen captures from SketchUp of what I am attempting. The first image you can see how I want to create two pieces that are a 1/4 of the overall rings. I added dimensions on it to show the sizes I am thinking. My SketchUp skills are still pretty minimal so the two chamfers on the outer ring are supposed to be round-overs, but I couldn't get the round-over to "Follow-Me" correctly, so you'll just have to imagine it. I would also do matching round-overs on the inner ring, but you get the idea. Also, the two dadoes in each ring are to hold the glass (front) and a rear piece (back) of glass, wood, or some other material... not sure yet what. I figured these would be 1/8" think dadoes roughly 1/4" deep to make sure they are able to hold the pieces solidly in place. The second image shows the radius of the rings. The outer ring is 1" thick, the inner ring is 1/2" thick. The dimensions show the radii of the two rings. The third image shows how I could cut the two 1/4 pieces from a single block of wood, and how large that block would need to be. I was thinking that if the wood species was cheap enough I might be able to find a solid piece, or, I could use multiple sheets of different species to build up a block (like I have seen people do for Bandsaw Boxes or other similar projects) and then make my cuts on the bandsaw. Then it would be sanding to get it to the proper dimensions. Lastly, I would take the router to it to do the dadoes and round-overs. This would all be done four time to make the four quarters. Then I can put the pieces together and use some decorative trim piece (still thinking on what it would look like) to hide the seams. So, please, I'd love to hear your feedback or thoughts on this. Thanks! -- Andrew
  7. The other day, while talking to a guy about something completely unrelated, we got onto the subject of a project he had been thinking about for some time. However, he admits to having no woodworking skills and asked me how to go about creating a "proof of concept" for his design. After hearing what he had in mind, I wanted check my thinking with some suggestions of those in here far more experienced than I am. The idea is to make a large wooden ring that would go around a clock, like a doughnut with the clock mechanism in the middle. The thing would be about 2" thick as well. But it is not as simple as that... of course, right? To make this more unique the wooden ring actually needs to be two rings. The outer ring would be about 18" in diameter, the inner ring 16" in diameter, giving about 2" between them. The reason for this is so we can have a circular piece of smoked glass between the two rings. So, assembled, you'd see an outer ring of wood, the approx 2" wide circle of glass, then the inner ring of wood, all of which would go around the inner clock mechanism. My issue is how best to create the two wooden rings... 1) My lathe only goes up to a max of 7" diameter, but even if I could turn something 18" in diameter, I don't think my skills are up for that. 2) Another thought was to take a sheet of plywood and use a router to cut out the two rings, which with a good circle jig shouldn't be too difficult, but I still have the 2" depth to figure out. I could cut multiple rings and glue them together to get the thickness, but that would be costly to buy the multiple sheets. And using plywood I would probably have to use a veneer of some kind as an outer cover, adding an additional layer of complexity. 3) I then thought maybe if I cut the rings into 4 quarters, I could then build up a single block of wood thick enough and long/wide enough that I could then cut out the quarter arc on a bandsaw. This could be done using the desired species of wood giving it a more uniform look and feel. I would then make some kind of decorative trim pieces to "hide" the seams. And since the idea here is a clock, the trim pieces could do a kind of double duty as visual cues with the clock hands. Another thing I need to consider is how to keep the glass in place between the two rings. Each ring along the front would need to have a "lip" to keep the glass from falling out the front. And to keep the glass from sliding backwards, I was thinking of a thin dado groove, like what you do with a drawer bottom, just behind the "lip". The only problem with this later is that it would only work if I went with option 3 above. So, I could use some suggestions on how you might approach such a project. How would you tackle this, keeping in mind the size and need to keep the glass solidly in place between the two wooden rings? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated! -- Andrew
  8. I was posting a reply to the original poster, I think you should direct your question to him. My location can be seen under my photo along the side of any of my posts. -- Andrew
  9. Thanks for attempting to give me step by step instructions on this, but.... feel bad saying this, but you demonstrated the exact opposite of what I would like to do. Maybe my terminology is wrong? When I say "round-over" I mean that two surfaces that are 90° to each other are joined by an outward curve. You can run your hand along one surface and then curve over onto the other one. When I made a cutting board for my wife (thanks again Marc for that video!) I rounded over the edges using a router, but I did it all the way around all four edges so there were no sharp corners. What I am trying to draw in SketchUp is if I *didn't* go all the way around all four edges. Or, as in my example, using a 4x4 board, start some distance in from the end and round over the edge to some point an equal distance from the other end. I don't want to make it look like I "turned" the 4x4, but rather just rounded over the edge to remove the sharp corners along the edge. While it might take longer to describe this, as well as draw it in SketchUp than to just pull out the router and hit it, I want to add this detail to my drawing so I can play with the length of the round-over before cutting wood so I can see what looks good and what doesn't. Would one long round over look good, or two shorter ones along the same edge? If like in the case of a cutting board, where would I want to do a round-over for finger holds, how long should they be, etc. Again, thanks for the help so far, and I apologize if I was not explaining things correctly. -- Andrew
  10. I know that the "Follow-Me" tool allows you to round over an edge all the way around a surface... like the edge of a table, or around a circular surface. But what I would like to know is how to "round-over" a corner but only part way along that edge? For example, take a 4'x4' that is 2' long. Now, make a mark 6" from either end on one edge, and then imagine taking your Router with a 1/2" round-over bit from one mark to the other. The ends of the 4x4 would still be square, with a rounded edge in the middle. But more so, the round-over smoothly transitions from the square to the round-over then back to the square again. How do you draw this in Sketchup? -- Andrew
  11. Once again I have to thank everyone for all the great suggestions and ideas. There are always several different ways to approach these things, and believe me I ran through many of them. But, I wanted to bring you all up to date on what I did and where I am at in this project.... As I mentioned I needed to make a bunch of piece that would come together using Tongue & Groove joinery, but it was the how to make the T&G that had me running into issues due to my particular table saw. Well, if you look at the first two attached photos, you'll see what I came up with. I really couldn't afford to purchase a nice T&G router bit set -- although I would like to get a set at some point, as expensive as they are. I do have a router table, and while a 1/4" straight bit would have made the groove I needed, 1/4" is actually a little over-sized based on my paneling, and my router table doesn't have a full fence (it has the two separate fences to either side of the bit) so I would be back to issues with the small pieces. So, in the end I decided to use the jig I show in the photo. It worked out great, and allowed me to adjust the groove it cut to precisely the size I wanted/needed. I just had to run the wood through once, then flip it end for end, and run it through again. For the double groove pieces I just did the same thing on both sides. For the tongue I finally got to use the Dado Stack set I bought a couple months ago (Home Depot: "Avanti Pro 8 In. x 24 Tooth Stacked Dado Set", $49.97) and worked great. It was really easy to get the blades on the table saw, and with just a few test cuts I got it dialed in pretty quick. Watching Marc's video on the Steamer Trunk prepared me for this step and I was able to knock these out in no time. In the third and fourth attached photos you can see the Dado Stack on the table saw and how I used a "sacrificial" fence to cut the tongues. Also, you'll see I had another board behind the one I was cutting... as I don't have a miter fence (like Marc describes in his video) I just used a left over board to help both with preventing 'tear-out' of my actual piece and to get a better grip on the piece I was cutting. Then I was able to re-adjust the fence and adjust the blades to allow me to cut the 3/8" rabbet in the two boards that will be the sides of my box, as part of a 'reinforced rabbet' (again like Marc described in his Trunk video -- I swear, I watched the video after I designed my project! But it is nice to see I was thinking along the same lines of TWW himself... makes me feel much more confident in my design) The last photo is the stack of pieces after going through all the T&G and Rabbet cuts. I still have some more rabbets to do, but my table saw doesn't have a shaft long enough for me to cut a 3/4" rabbet, so I will have to do those on the router table. Thankfully, those rabbets are on long pieces so the router fence issue won't be a problem in this case. After that, the next step will be to start cutting all the little panels which will go into the grooves. With those cut, then I can dry assemble the front and be that much closer to being done! -- Andrew
  12. Thanks everyone for your feedback on this. I decided to continue with the project on plan that I created in SketchUp. The only difference I made was to not make the 5° cuts on the ends to angle the notched boards. My table saw is not that precise, and I really didn't see any other way I could manage such cuts with the tools I had on hand. So, I just made everything perpendicular. Came out pretty good if I do say so myself. And once it was done, it actually didn't take up that much wall space yet gives me lots of room for clamps. As you can see though, I have some empty slots so I might need to address that small problem! -- Andrew
  13. Thanks everyone for the responses and the great ideas on how to proceed. Since posting, my brain has been simmering on the problem and I think I might try a variation on the cross cut sled instead of making a "zero-clearance insert". The insert idea looks like it may be a challenge due to the way the table saw top is designed. Making a 'sled', but that is clamped in place with a fixed fence parallel to the blade may be the simplest, cheapest, and quickest way to get around the problem. I am happy that an idea I arrived at coincides with many of the experts in here... very reassuring! I do like the idea of the Tongue and Groove router bits, but never having used them before, I may need to take a trip to Rockler or WoodCraft to see them and talk with the experts there. May be a cleaner way to cut the wood, but they are not cheap and I want to make sure I am not buying something expensive I may only use on this project and that can be done by another means. Again, thanks everyone for the help! Oh, and when I figure out what I will actually do, and get some cut up, I'll post pics of the progress. I'm hoping to finish this project in time for Marc's holiday project spotlight. (It's not a holiday theme in and of itself, but I am making it as a gift) -- Andrew
  14. Working on a project where I wanted to use Tongue & Groove style joinery for the front framework. Problem I am running into though is how to cut the groove along the thin edge of my 1"x2" due to the gap in the table saw where the blade comes through the surface. If you look at the attached photo, I scored a 'test' piece to show the groove I want to cut. The side that is scored would actually lay down on the table saw surface when cutting, but standing it up shows better what I am attempting to do. But if you notice, the wood is barely larger than the opening for the saw blade, and this makes it very difficult to keep the wood flat on the surface and flush against the fence. Unfortunately, the plate that covers the opening is fixed and not adjustable. Should I just try to make a full plate out of thin wood I could then cut a slit in by raising the blade? Or is there some other option here? The table saw is: Ryobi 10 in. 13 Amp Portable Table Saw (Home Depot SKU # 418826) Wood is S4S Select Pine, 1"x2" (3/4" x 1 1/2" actual), groove is 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep full length of each board. Any help/suggestions are welcome. -- Andrew
  15. I created a Sketchup drawing of a plan I saw online. I posted about it in another post here (). My question here is that while I was able to get Cutlist installed and working, I was not getting the results from Cutlist that I thought I should. When I highlighted all the objects on my drawing, and ran Cutlist, I got a long list of board cuts. But when you look at it, all the pieces are the same 3/4" thickness, and could all be cut from a single half-sheet (48"x48") of plywood. Why doesn't Cutlist show this? Instead it shows me needing to cut my parts from boards, and then duplicated much of the pieces in the cut list. Can someone help me on the way to use Cutlist to most effectiveness? Thanks! -- Andrew